mad-max98

iTrader: (2)

what did you guys do with the coolant hoses and does antbody know how to disable the egr and not let any gases pass through

Stephen Max

iTrader: (59)

You can either plug the TB coolant lines, or you can get a hose splice and close the loop.

For the egr, all you have to do is disconnect the vacuum line at the egr valve and it will stay shut. Plug the vacuum line so you don't end up with a leak when the egr vacuum solenoid opens.

jmeister

iTrader: (12)

You also removing the EGR system?

mad-max98

iTrader: (2)

i have to look for that vacuum line for the egr,, and i did plug the hoses with little bolts

Broaner

iTrader: (10)

Pull the EGR off. Don't just plug the vacum line. Removing it will make future work in that area easier, will unclutter the engine bay and will reduce weight.

mad-max98

iTrader: (2)

what about emissions when i go back to cali next year

mad-max98

iTrader: (2)

and for removing do you just unbolt the guide tube???

Stephen Max

iTrader: (59)

If you have to worry about emmissions, leave the egr on, don't remove it. Use the 5th gen egr guide tube and the egr system will bolt right to the 00vi. If you don't want the egr functioning in between emmissions testing, just disconnect and plug the vacuum hose to the egr valve.

Dman832

iTrader: (1)

so disabling the egr doesn't require removing the guide tube?

mad-max98

iTrader: (2)

non of my vacuum sources is for my egr on my vi setup "as far as i know" ,, i only did the necessary vacuum lines and the egr still lets gas through,,where is that egr vacuum supposed to hook up anyways

Broaner

iTrader: (10)

By removing the EGR system I mean removing the whole thing. Not just the guide tube. I'm talking like pull all that crap off the block and head and plug the hole in the back manifold.

MAXimumHP

iTrader: (7)

Broaner,
Doesn't that just freak the ECU out because all those connectors are unplugged?

Stephen Max

iTrader: (59)

If exhaust is leaking, then the egr valve pintle is not closing all the way because of carbon buildup.

jmeister

iTrader: (12)

Sorta, there is only one sensor that monitors the EGR and that is in the exhaust tube IIRC. I just cut the EGR tube coming from the exhaust and welded that sensor into the end to close it up. Prolly fried the sensor in the process but...
There is supposed to be some resistor you can use to give the ECU the correct reading but haven't found much info on it. I don't throw an EGR code very often with mine removed, hasn't affected performance any.

scrhale

I am pretty sure when you block/remove/tinker with EGR it makes you run slightly rich unless you have SAFC ... just to let you know.

Broaner

iTrader: (10)

Not if its a 95 ECU. 95 ECU doesn't give a fxck about any emission crap. I think 96+ has to be tricked with the resistor.

The EGR is only used on part throttle. So, if it does make you richer it doesn't matter because its not happening when you're trying to make power.

Stephen Max

iTrader: (59)

That is correct. And since it only operates during closed loop, any deviation from stoichiometric is detected and compensated for. So the egr has no effect on afr at all, unless it is not functioning properly (i.e. leaking).

mad-max98

iTrader: (2)

i blocked the tube with JB WELD till i get the 00 guide tube

XeroX

iTrader: (13)

So we have to bypass the coolant lines thru the TB in order to do this?

I bypassed this line just for fun on my stock IM, cause i figured it would help provide some cooler aire in my IM (i was down there and i wanted to give it a try). I come to find out a day or so later that my idle was tripin out, it would get stuck in cold start and keep the idle at 1400~ RPMs like if i just started it, but the motor was at op. temp.

It would only happen on cold nights when i drove on the freeway, i would notice when i would get off the freeway and come to a stop, cause my idle would be retardedly high...

After i routed the coolant line back to stock (thru the TB and back of USIM (95)) the problem went away completely. Would i have to do the same thing with this setup? I guess there is a sensor there to read coolant temperatures to start cold start idle. I just dont want to run into that problem again, it was SUPER ANOYING...

MAXimumHP

iTrader: (7)

hmm, I haven't run mine in the winter yet, but I live in WI, so I will when it gets cold. There is an entirely mechanical device in the TB that pushes on the throttle plate when it's cold. You would need to see if you can adjust this mechanism. I'd have to look closer at that to see how it works. Otherwise, yeah, you would need to run new lines to the TB.

Stephen Max

iTrader: (59)

The 4th gen throttle body has a fast idle cam that cracks the throttle open a little bit and then retracts as the coolant warms up the throttle body. What you needed to do was adjust the fast idle cam so that it didn't open the throttle when cold. Of course you would have then had the opposite problem of a low idle when cold until the engine warmed up.

MAXimumHP

iTrader: (7)

I looked when I went to lunch and it is adjustable by a nut on the end of a threaded shaft. Not sure if you could find a happy median there or not. I'll find out this winter

XeroX

iTrader: (13)

I noticed this after i routed the Coolant lines back to stock. Now when i start my car in the mornings my idle is not at 1400 to warm up the motor. at least i dont get that fast idel randomly...that was horrible..

I have heard of this fast idle cam however i dont know where it is nor how to adjust it...

Can anyone post pics of this adjustment screw and possibly what to do to adjust it?