I'm doing a 3.5 swap into a 97 max. I already tore apart the 3.5 and removed the intake cams and sent them to Tilley. Before I proceed, I have a few questions

1. Do I really need to buy a FPR or can I use the 1997 FPR?
2. I'm confused a little about the IACV...Can I use the 4th gen IACV? Do I need to fabricate a mounting plate or something??
3. Do I really need to remove the 3.5 inner timing cover? They appear to be the same...
4. Did Tilley totally remove the butterfly valve in the IM or did he mod it so that the short runners would always be used?

 

Nice to see more people actually going through with this swap, instead of simply sitting there and wishing it was done.

1. No need to buy an FPR. Use the 1997 FPR, I use the 95 FPR, works fine.

2. I simply ditched the IACV. Left it unplugged. Unless a 1400-1500 rpm idle bothers you... I love it for launching at the track. Launching off idle is so simple.

3. Nope. You need both 3.0 inner and outter timing covers on the 3.5 block. There's a big hole in the middle of the 3.5 timing cover, wouldn't match with the 3.0.

4. Tilley grinded out the plate that holds the butterfly valve. So that aluminum plate on the side of the intake manifold is just to close it shut. I did the same thing. A little less low end (not needed) and a little more top end.

Good luck. You're at the part where you're getting eager to drive it. I remember the anticipation. Did you get headers while you're at it? The 3.5 loves headers...

 

He pretty much covered everything. Only thing i wanna add is that i would recommend you either 1. get an adjustable fuel pressure regulator or 2. convert to the 5.5 gen returnless fuel system. The reason i say this is because the 3.5 fuel rail in the 5.5 gen sees 53 PSI fuel pressure at all times. The 4th and 5th gen FPR are such that they make for 34 PSI at idle at 43 at WOT. So if you use a stock 3.0 FPR with a 3.5 fuel rail, the fuel pressure will likely be lower than 43 PSI, since the 3.5 injectors flow more. This is over a 10 PSI difference in fuel pressure. Not only can it cause the motor to run lean at WOT, it could cause improper atomization of the fuel. Just something to think about.

 

Does it mean I might make more power with an aftermarket FPR set at the right pressure?

 

I saw that someone used the nismo 300zx adjustable FPR.
http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchan...=22670-RR710US

What about the non adjustable 300zx FPR?
http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchan...de=22670-00001

I haven't bought any headers yet, but I will definately use the 97 exhaust manifold with a y-pipe. This should show similiar gains to headers since the 3.5's exhaust manifolds have precats in them whereas the 95-00 exhaust manifolds do not.

 

Perhaps. It might mean better highway MPG too since the fuel atomization would be more precise.

 

Please explain....

I would think that a motor running lean would have better atomization and better gas mileage. One of the reasons that the hybrids get better mileage is that they use lean-burn engines.

 

Yes. But this is NOT the formula for making power. If the fuel pressure is too low there will be improper atomization, period. Fuel metering is VERY precise so the fuel pressure needs to be on point to match.

Lowering fuel pressure is not the proper way to make a car run lean anyway. Keeping fuel pressure high and decreasing the injector pulse width is how these lean-burn hybrids do it.

 

I guess I was not understanding exactly what atomization is...

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Atomization

I think a good analogy would be a spray bottle filled with water. If you pull back the plastic thingy gently, IE with low pressure, water will drip out. If you pull back hard, you will create a mist.

So with the 3.5 injectors, you will have a finer mist of gas being injected if you have the higher pressure that it is designed for. So you should have better MPG and power with better atomization.

 

Exactly.

 

I saw that someone used the nismo 300zx adjustable FPR.
http://www.courtesyparts.com/Mercha...e=22670-RR710US

What about the non adjustable 300zx FPR?
http://www.courtesyparts.com/Mercha...ode=22670-00001

Do I really need the adjustable FPR or would the 300zx one be ok? Anyone know what the 300zx fuel pressure is? I need to get one ordered ASAP.

 

Z32's run 36.3 PSI at idle and 43.4 PSI at WOT per a 1994 300ZX FSM. It'd be useless to you. You'd be better off getting the Nismo adjustable unit. This is what stephen max used in Dubbya's car and this is what i plan on using when i do the swap.

Edit: I'm forgetting that fuel pressure at the fuel rail is relative to the fuel pump, fuel rail inner diameter, and injector flow rate. The 300zx injectors are 370cc so there has to be a much higher volume of fuel flowing through the Z32 fuel rail to maintain 43 PSI compared to an A32 fuel rail @ 43 PSI. So there's a chance that a stock Z32 FPR would allow less fuel to flow back to the fuel tank than an A32 FPR and raise pressure over what that A32 FPR could provide. Hah...i think i confused myself Exactly how much i can't say, but i still think having an adjustable FPR is the best bet. The flexibility and precision is priceless IMO.

 

im also gettin the 3.5 swap should be done this week or next definitaley i also got a sc i was thinkin of puttin it on and tryin it out but since the timings gonna be off will a jwt upgraded ecu fix that

 

Did you see what happened to the jetblue plane's landing gear tires? A SC on a 3.5 will roast the tires on the FWD maxima.

 

lol i was only thinking of usin the 3.33 pulley 9psi but after i advanced the timing on the car and got it runing perfect

 

Go returnless and make more power.

 

I was thinking of doing the mod myself. I thought it would give the same hp output as the 5th gen like 255 hp but I saw that it gives out only 205-225. that sucks. If I do this swap I want it to be able to beat supercharged cars and at least turbocharged ones. I aint trying to spend 2gs- 3gs for onlu 20-40 hp. I rather spend 3000 gs and turbo it and then spray to be putting about 100-150 hp. The amount of money for te 3.5 fa now just aint worth it.

 

The only thing that sucks is your math.

 

For the love of mankind, stop breathing.

 

Soooo misinformed.....
The 3.5 in the 5th gen doesn't put out 255whp, it puts out about 205whp stock. 225whp in a car that weighs 2900lbs, does not suck. That makes a car run in the 13's in the 1/4 mile.

So, you want naturally aspirated 3.5L engine that puts out more power than a 3.0L engine that has a turbo or a supercharger????

It's not 2-3gs of you do it yourself. More like 1.5g's. And the 3.0L engine only puts out about 160whp stock. Put headers on the 3.5 and you'll be a 230whp. That's a 70whp increase which would equal 84hp at the crank and about 70wtq more.[/QUOTE]


You'll be hard pressed to turbo it and spray it for only 3g's. You'll prolly melt your pistons in the process.

 

Foo thanks for explaining the conv. to me better. It makes way better sense to do this mad when you put it in that perspective. Wheels at the crank had me gased, I wasnt even thinking of how much whp it put out.

 

www.hop.com

 

Playboy, if I have to delete another of your posts, you're going on vacation.

 

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