3.5 swap, problem with POS pass. side axle
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,816
From: Interior Alaska
3.5 swap, problem with POS pass. side axle
I'm doing my 3.5 swap and I'm having a hell of a time trying to remove the *#$#&^ passenger side axle!!!! The driver's side came out in 5 min., but the stupid retainer bearing is frozen in place!
Here's a picture of what I'm talking about.

I removed all three bolts. Not my pic BTW. It's frozen so bad that it appears as one metal piece. I used some of that orange penetrating spray to no avail.
Can I just drop the transmission and then hammer away at it later? Is there a way to remove the stupid bearing retainer from the engine? Should I just cut the inner boot, pull the MF, and get a new axle? If I just separate the axle in two by pulling the piece out of the inner boot, will it clear the engine bay?
Here's a picture of what I'm talking about.

I removed all three bolts. Not my pic BTW. It's frozen so bad that it appears as one metal piece. I used some of that orange penetrating spray to no avail.
Can I just drop the transmission and then hammer away at it later? Is there a way to remove the stupid bearing retainer from the engine? Should I just cut the inner boot, pull the MF, and get a new axle? If I just separate the axle in two by pulling the piece out of the inner boot, will it clear the engine bay?
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,816
From: Interior Alaska
Originally Posted by mtrai760
Nice red X 

So, here we go again.

After looking at the FSM some more, I see that the stupid thing can be unbolted from the engine. I might have to unbolt it and drop the tranny, then pull the engine out. Then I could hammer away at it a lot easier with it out of the car.
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,816
From: Interior Alaska
Originally Posted by aznsap
yup, what eng92 said. you might not even have to take that bracket off the axle (i don't remember when i saw my friend do it and i haven't done the 3.5 swap myself).
Another problem I'm having is with the exhaust. The y-pipe came off the stock headers pretty easy, but I can't remove the stock y-pipe from the cat. I can't remove the cat from the resonator either. The stupid nuts are smaller than an 11mm, but bigger than a 10mm. It's not 3/8 or 7/16 either. Looks like I might have to buy the WS catback.
In situations like this, application of heat with a torch will break up the corrosion and unstick the two parts.
One time when I did a clutch job I got lazy and just left the passenger side axle in place and pulled the transmission away from the axle (and engine). It made it a bit tricky stabbing the tranny input shaft into the clutch and the axle into the transmission at the same time, but I was able to do it.
One time when I did a clutch job I got lazy and just left the passenger side axle in place and pulled the transmission away from the axle (and engine). It made it a bit tricky stabbing the tranny input shaft into the clutch and the axle into the transmission at the same time, but I was able to do it.
I have done this both ways on 2 different Maxima's. The first time I separated the bracket which was a real biatch. It took a lot of chiseling and pounding etc.
Second time I just removed the 3 bolts that hold the bracket to the block like eng92 has shown, its much easier.
You don't have to separate that fitting to do a swap just remove the whole bracket with shaft and bolt it on to the 3.5.
In regards to the exhaust, sometimes the only way is a cutting torch to blow the heads off the bolts/nuts and extract after removal.
Second time I just removed the 3 bolts that hold the bracket to the block like eng92 has shown, its much easier.
You don't have to separate that fitting to do a swap just remove the whole bracket with shaft and bolt it on to the 3.5.
In regards to the exhaust, sometimes the only way is a cutting torch to blow the heads off the bolts/nuts and extract after removal.
in relation to exhaust: cut the bolts (torch, sawzall, dremel) the drill them out and replace with new SS nuts bolts and washers (my y-pipe took forever because of that, i cut the bolts by the resonator removed the y-pipe +cat and then separated them by cutting those bolts on the ground. i believe the cat flanges have threads for the bolts.
good luck
good luck
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