Some engine build pics
#12
oil pump
Originally Posted by Stephen Max
Yes, it is.
You are doing an awesome rebuild!!
Don't forget to use a vq35 oil pump. It fits perfect in the vq30 and pumps a whole lot more oil!!
Ron
#16
A few questions on the side: Did you have to rehone the cylinder walls? Did you use new rings, oil and compression? Did you use new rod bearings since you had to remove the rods to install the new pistons? Just wondering cus i want to learn.
#24
Originally Posted by maximazation
Whats significant about the PF VQ35 Pistons? Is it because of lower compression?
#25
More pics.
Heads with valves lapped in and all combustion chambers at 95% or better leakdown. I made a test fixture so that I could do a leakdown test on the heads only. The numbers written on the cylinder head are the valve clearances, all within spec.
Homemade degree wheel for finding top dead center and setting cam timing:
Homemade piston stop for finding TDC:
Heads with valves lapped in and all combustion chambers at 95% or better leakdown. I made a test fixture so that I could do a leakdown test on the heads only. The numbers written on the cylinder head are the valve clearances, all within spec.
Homemade degree wheel for finding top dead center and setting cam timing:
Homemade piston stop for finding TDC:
#26
Originally Posted by Stephen Max
I made a test fixture so that I could do a leakdown test on the heads only.
Homemade degree wheel for finding top dead center and setting cam timing:
Homemade piston stop for finding TDC:
Homemade degree wheel for finding top dead center and setting cam timing:
Homemade piston stop for finding TDC:
#27
Originally Posted by nismology
A few questions on the side: Did you have to rehone the cylinder walls? Did you use new rings, oil and compression? Did you use new rod bearings since you had to remove the rods to install the new pistons? Just wondering cus i want to learn.
I honed the cylinders and installed new rings, main bearings and rod bearings (along with ARP rod bolts, main bearing studs and cylinder head studs). This is basically a complete engine rebuild, but since the heads were so low mileage (about 6000 miles) all I had to do to them is lap the valves and check valve clearance. I had two valves out of spec, one high and one low. I was able to swap shims with each other to bring them both into spec without having to go down to the dealer and buy new shims.
The block was also low mileage at 15k miles, so the cylinders probably did not need the honing, but what the heck.
#28
Originally Posted by Nealoc187
Jesus H. you never cease to amaze me. Awesome.
#30
Originally Posted by JClaw
Using VQ35 heads, right? (Visually, I don't think I can tell the difference between 3.0 and 3.5 heads)
#33
Originally Posted by allen22
I'm confused, it looks like you've installed a block guard which would indicate some high horsepower in your future but your running stock pistons (and assuming stock rods). What's the plan?
allen
allen
Short term plans are 7200 rpm, NA. Long term plans are turbo, but that may not happen for a while, seeing as how I'm about to have two kids in college.
I'm not worried about the stock rods and pistons holding up for the power levels I'm shooting for.
#34
Originally Posted by Stephen Max
What do you mean by block guard? If you're talking about the main bearing brace in the first pic, that is the oem part in all VQ engines.
Short term plans are 7200 rpm, NA. Long term plans are turbo, but that may not happen for a while, seeing as how I'm about to have two kids in college.
I'm not worried about the stock rods and pistons holding up for the power levels I'm shooting for.
Short term plans are 7200 rpm, NA. Long term plans are turbo, but that may not happen for a while, seeing as how I'm about to have two kids in college.
I'm not worried about the stock rods and pistons holding up for the power levels I'm shooting for.
Maybe I'm looking at something wrong but in post #26 it looks like you've got a sleeve pressed in around all 3 pistons, what some call a block guard as seen in this stroker kit:
http://www.aebsracing.com/products.p...ct=vq35stroker
AEBS calls them T-sleeves in that link.
allen
#35
Originally Posted by allen22
Maybe I'm looking at something wrong but in post #26 it looks like you've got a sleeve pressed in around all 3 pistons, what some call a block guard as seen in this stroker kit:
http://www.aebsracing.com/products.p...ct=vq35stroker
AEBS calls them T-sleeves in that link.
allen
http://www.aebsracing.com/products.p...ct=vq35stroker
AEBS calls them T-sleeves in that link.
allen
#36
Originally Posted by Stephen Max
Sorry, I missed your question earlier.
I honed the cylinders and installed new rings, main bearings and rod bearings (along with ARP rod bolts, main bearing studs and cylinder head studs). This is basically a complete engine rebuild, but since the heads were so low mileage (about 6000 miles) all I had to do to them is lap the valves and check valve clearance.
I honed the cylinders and installed new rings, main bearings and rod bearings (along with ARP rod bolts, main bearing studs and cylinder head studs). This is basically a complete engine rebuild, but since the heads were so low mileage (about 6000 miles) all I had to do to them is lap the valves and check valve clearance.
#39
Originally Posted by IceY2K1
Why?!?!?!?
VQ35+SC would be awesome....
VQ35+SC would be awesome....
I agree, and that was the original plan. However, reality has arrived in the form of financial obligations, so I have to sell off some stuff, including the SC.
#40
I'm sending you a PM....
Originally Posted by Stephen Max
I agree, and that was the original plan. However, reality has arrived in the form of financial obligations, so I have to sell off some stuff, including the SC.