Hey ya'll...I do realize every car is different...but I am heading to the local track this saturday...my VAFCII has just been installed and its running on no settings (only initial start-up settings)...

I would like to know what settings ya'll owners with the VQ35 have? Preferably a dyno tuned vq35 thats running RICH as a baseline...my setup is obviously running SUPER rich as you can see in my exhaust vid...theres fire coming out of the exhaust...so yeah no question about it right there....I do know a few VQ35s who are running LEAN as a baseline...I wouldn't be too interested in your #s only cuz it would cause my RICH baseline to go even more richer if you posted up your settings...lol...

anyway it might be worth a shot just to plug in some #s and let my butt dyno do the judging....if it feels better, I'll save the #s and take it to the track...

Not to be an ***, but the cookie cutter method isn't going to do it.

You do not know if your car is running rich for sure... My car backfires.. and you've seen my a/f.

To be safe, as you say you were running rich, which you still have no data to back it up.. you run the risk of leaning out and doing bad things to your engine.

Do it right and use a dyno+ VAFC to tune the A/F..

Don't be a and kill your engine, this is exaclty how and why these types of things happen.

Cookie cutter = TS Full spec.

So yer tryin to say...TS F spec = Me using someone else's AFC settings ??

I know your right on this one Manny...not going to argue...but how is it that, Hondata (widely used by the Honda community) with their generic maps, are able to produce incredible gains on some Honda vehicles?

Hes saying TS tunes 1 maxima/car for best performance, or a target A/F (I have no idea which) and timing numbers and all that kind of stuff. Then they sell it to every one. but because weather, and differing sensors, its a VERY BAD IDEA to use their tune that most likely has not much room for leaning out. So a TS full spec ECU with its cutting edge tuning is dangerous as it may leave very little room for detonation.

This ties in with what your trying to do now. You assume your AF is super rich, and can do a base "Tune" (or leaning out in your case) but this can be very damaging as its a completely blind change. Nissan has it set were it will run great untill you find out your exact AFR

~Alex

Your car is unique, treat it as so.

This car's not a honda either

You answered the question by yourself already

Every car is different, don't mess with fuel going into the engine if you can't monitor it.

That's why you have a VAFC ...

LOL...well I said that so I wouldn't get flamed...oh well...worth a shot

eh?

That response was for steven88..

Just letting you know, I'm through with the settings....just cuz you guys convinced me not to mess with it...but I know some of ya'll will still be reading this...so let me just ask this while it's still up

Why is it okay with 4th genners to go with TS and JWT....when they themselves are running generic maps? As with pretty much every other reflash out there too...I don't see people have relability issues with these reflashes...Even Nmex himself has a JWT for his 4th gen....whats the story behind this?

Because it's a free country and we're free to do what we want? I was dumb and knew little to nothing about AFC tuning when I bought it and my A/F didn't need it. A32's these days are tuning with them(AFC) for even more power than before.


You went blindly into it and bought a VAFC when you still don;t know if you need it or not. SR20DEN has posted many many times as well as many other knowledgable members (I30MikeD, Nealoc187, Stephen Max, Larrio, Ice) that a AFC is not worth it if your A/F doesn't need it.

Also, A32's A/F isn't as raped as the A33Bs.

And if you wanted a reflash from TS, why didn't you get it?

I never wanted a TS flash...and if it was going to be a flash, I'd get the L spec before the F spec....only becuz I heard the F spec doesn't work well with headers...only with I/E...

.

I almost took some pictures of the installation we did last night.

And IIRC, the settings I used were

01 IN 01 OUT

L>H 4400 (we may have to adjust these a little)
H>L 4300


Ne Points;
LVT: 1000, 1500, 2000, 2500, 2800, 3000, 3200, 3400, 3600, 3800, 4000, 4200

WVT: 4400, 4600, 4800, 5000, 5200, 5400, 5600, 5800. 6000, 6200, 6400, 6600

Display Scale;
Prs: 15psi
RPM: 7000

I am sure there are one or two more settings the thing asked for, I just don't remember what at the moment.

And FYI for you SAFCII owners, it isn't the sensor type because the VAFCII is for MAP only.



I wonder how slow his car runs now with the +20% fuel I gave it @5k+.

I guess this is the reason why generic reflashes don't work well with A33Bs then? High inconsistency in the stock static maps between each car which is why we see such different AF curves. Am I right or completely off here?

Nmax. you quoted that its not worth it to get an A/F, but I remember in previous posts that getting one even if your stock is worth it b/c you can tune your open-loop map for optimum performance.

Whatever I quoted means that if your A/F is no matter if your stock or not A/F is worth it.