I plan to relocate my wideband o2 sensor bung closer upstream....what would be a fair price to look for when calling up different muffler shops? The pipe will still be ON the car....I'm not sure how it works...but do they just raise your car...then weld it on the pipe and BAM, you're done?

I don't wanna get ripped off here

 

well they do have to drill a hole in the pipe aswell

 

I am in the same position , i have a test pipe , should i weld on it ???

i also have a bung in my greddy sp2 , but unfortunatly its oriented to the ground. thats stupid .

 

Most shops will just blow a hole through the side of the pipe with a cutting torch or plasma cutter.

I paid $60 to have 2 bungs TIG welded in but that also included milling one of the y-pipe/header flanges at an angle for better fitment. This was done with the pipe off the car of course.



They will probably just charge you for a 1/2 hr minimum + materials.

 

is it true that the closer to the block the best it is for reading ???

should i weld it on the y pipe or the test pipe is good enough ?

 

The proper way to do it is replace the test pipe with a cat and place the bung for the WBO2 in the y-pipe.

 

Lets say i leave my test pipe , what will append , will the reading will be accurate ?

 

i cant believe nobody makes a thread adapter (thread size converter) taht would screw into my greddy sp2's extra bung hole and allow me to screw in my 02 sensors into it.
the rear 02 sensor is smaller than the spare bung and i want to use it so i dont have to get a bung welded into my test pipe

 

well mine is perfect (big one) , but pointing to the ground , way to cloose to the ground

 

lssexhaust sells test pipes w/ O2 bung for ~30 USD.

 

true thats what i have , cant remember if our O2 is 18mm x 1.5mm

 

I had mine welded in for $30 I believe. They just blew a hole in the pipe with a plasma cutter then welded in.

-matt

 

I'm not sure what type of wideband you have, but Zeitronix recommends that the wideband o2 bung be welded so that the sensor sits as vertical as possible in the exhaust stream (something about avoiding condensation that collects near the bottom).

This may be of concern if you want it done this way with the exhaust still on the vehicle as there will be little to no access.

 

Does the PLX sensor thread into the stock 02-bung?

If so, I'd just replace one of the primaries and use the PLX narrowband output to the ECU by splicing into the stock 02 signal wire. Leave it hanging for the heater to keep from throwing a code.

 

The lssexhaust unit is 'adjustable'. Since the the ends are free from the actual pipe, and are able to bolt on any way the user chooses...

 

thanks! I'll keep $30 in mind when asking around...was this with the pipe on the car? Just wondering because if they have to remove it, then they'd charge me more labor

 

PLX says to mount it from 10 to 2 o clock positions...but not veritcal...mine is currently at 9 o clock (aka, horizontal)...no problems so far

 

ahh.. there we go, 10 to 2 o clock positions (nearly vertical). I guess as long as yours is fine, no worries!

Oh, and to answer your original question.... I got quoted $40 dollars for 2 bungs to be welded at a local muffler shop I found in the phone book (y-pipe off the car)

 

wait, does that include them taking off the ypipe? or do you take it off yourself, then drive over there and give it to them? i hope it's the former

 

Steve,

Why don't you just use the stock 02 bung?

 

if i do, it will only read off one bank of cylinders? if i have it further back it will read all banks to give me a more accurate reading?

also i'm not too familiar with replacing the stock narrowband....do i just zip tie it somewhere or what? and i just splice one of the PLX wires onto my ECU wire for primary o2?

 

You don't need to monitor both banks, one is enough.

Yes, you leave it plugged in, but you splice the WB output wire to the stock 02.

 

Or you can just remove the stock 02 and run a 20-ohm 10W load resistor according to PLX.

http://www.plxdevices.com/AppNotes/PLXApp004.pdf

 

There is no point in running a test pipe.

 

just keep an eye out at the local shops for when there aren't cars on the lift/etc

if they aren't busy, some guys will do it for a case of beer. Some will do it for free if you just bring the pipe down and all they have to do is hook up the ground and zap-zzzzzzzzzzzz-zap