maximariceboi

iTrader: (32)

i have been running with the eu for maybe about 2 weeks with 2 cel's after the eu install. one was about the cam sensor...i have a 99 cali spec so i have crank pos and crank phase...im pretty sure i tapped into the right one for the cam wire on eu to crank phase wire...but there's 2 wires?

2nd...misfire/igntion system...i have used 6 resistors n tapped on ecu wire where the plug for the ignition on 1 end of the resistor and other end linked to ground on ecu. i have done that on the outside...car runs still but cel is still on.

i then attempted to open up the eu since ppl have done it here...using 470 ohm 1/4 resistors...after i got the 6 ignition pins soldered with wire and then resistor...other end of resistor wired to ground on eu...tried starting up the car..it cranks but does not start...i looked what i did several times...i didnt hook anything up wrong...so i took the resistors off....still wont start....can someone please help...is my ecu or eu fried? i do have power goin to the eu.....

maximariceboi

iTrader: (32)

codes P0340 camshaft position sensor A circuit B
P1320 mrf crlled ign sys or misfire



ok i just got my car started....took the battery terminal off and put it back on...at least i can drive the car now..

d00df00d

iTrader: (4)

Free bump. Interested in results.

MDeezy

iTrader: (27)

just getting the ball rolling but all your jumpers are properly set?
Do a data log see if anything is off.
Have you tested the sensor to make sure its not bad ?

GoalieKeg

iTrader: (4)

I don't understand what you did with the resistors and the ignition wiring? I used no resistors, and I don't think dandymax did either.

maximariceboi

iTrader: (32)

i dont know what it is lol. im going to look at again tmrw and see what the deal is...as long as the car is running right now im ok...

goaliekeg...ur 3.5 now so i dont think you will have that issue maybe?

mforrest100

iTrader: (24)

Some cars do require resistors. I already talked to Dandymax about it. He said if I get them I can send him my EU and he'll hook me up with resistors for a small fee. Just depends on the model or year. Not sure what it is.

nismology

iTrader: (8)

He still has the 3.0 ECU so if it mattered before it matters now.

DandyMax

iTrader: (7)

I am 90% sure anyone with a 3.0 ECU will need resistors to eliminate the P1320 code. I have not heard of anyone yet who hasn't; GoalieKeg you are the first. I did need them, and I'm not sure why you'd be different, unless there is something different in the circuitry on the newer versions of the EU (circuit board).


Maximariceboi: reading your post it's not that clear exactly what you've done with the wiring.

Which codes are you getting specifically?

For starters, which line are you calling "phase?" The crank REFERENCE sensor line should go to the CAM input on the EU, and the crank POSITION line should go to the crank angle input on the EU. Also, what are your jumper settings and parameters chosen on the car setup tab? (blue car icon)

The resistor wiring you will need to describe more clearly. This may be redundant but the pictures below show how my resistor wiring was done and which pins for the crank lines should be tapped.

michaelnyden

iTrader: (15)

so why does the P1320 code come up?

is this only with the earlier hardware/firmware revisions of the EU?

I know they have put out several different hardware versions already...

maximariceboi

iTrader: (32)

Dandymax..
i did the resistors the same way u have the pic u posted...b4 i had the resistors outside of the eu. car started up but code 1320 was still on or pending. I then took the resistors off and wired the resistors inside the eu. after that...car didn't start. gave up that night and tried again the next night..i re-did all of the soldering and making sure its the right pins. i soldered wire/resistor on them correctly and still didn't start. I then took all 6 resistors off and car still won't run. tried uploading new file on laptop and nothing happens. I then took the negative terminal off and waited till it resets...car then starts right up.


since i have a 99 cali spec....i have crank phase and crank pos..i will have to look at my fsm and tell u which pin...well im gona use that diagram you have tomorrow and try to figure out the other cel code about the camshaft....the jumpers, i will look at it again. thanks for the help

maximariceboi

iTrader: (32)

ok the resistors finally did its job..still have problems with the camshaft sensor code..i tried 3 spots on the crank phase wire...nothin happened..just cel

so i was playing with the vtec output to activate 00vi..doesn't work but i do see the auxilary output turn on but dont see the metal rod move....the car ran like crap when i changed the jumper settin jp10 to 2-3..

so i put it back to jp10 1-2 and ran fine. i then went on the highway last night...car started to run like crap...shaking and everything again as if i changed the jumper again...sounded like my engine was dying... barely made it up hill...pulled over and checked with laptop..it doesnt read ignition timing at all anymore...b4 it usually idles at 23 which i heard its suppose to be at 15..so i decided to drive back home..man..i should of just stayed on the highway...from running my car like that back home...i felt lots of heat on the shift boot to the arm rest when i finally got home. i can smell something burning...somehow over heated the tranny.???

eng92

iTrader: (3)

It is not your tranny, it is probably your cat. It sits directly underneath the end of your shifter. (with a heatshield in between of course)

Was your CEL flashing while you were driving home?

This would indicate severe misfiring which would cause your cat to heat up substantially from all the raw fuel going through it.

maximariceboi

iTrader: (32)

ok that sounds a little better but what explains the harsh shifting? and also when its on neutral, its very stiffed moving left and right. there was no cel flashing. cel was already on for camshaft sensor..will check with computer to see what other codes are on there. when i was driving last night, car sounded like a lawn mower...

i have the CE cat which always ticks and they wouldn't take it back alot when its warmed up.

just wondering, does anyone have the eu on a 99 cali spec?

eng92

iTrader: (3)

Did the "harsh" shifting start after you could feel the heat through the shifter?

If it was hot enough to feel inside the car, any non-metal parts (bushings, etc.) in your shifter linkage are probably toast (literally) which may explain the difficult shifting.

maximariceboi

iTrader: (32)

yea..just wat i thought.needed 2nd opinion thanks...

DandyMax

iTrader: (7)

Something sounds fishy still with your setup/wiring. So to be clear, you have the Crank REF sensor tapped and connected to the EU cam input line, and the crank POS sensor tapped and connected to the EU crank input line?

Have you checked your camshaft sensor to make sure it's good?

maximariceboi

iTrader: (32)

that is correct....

i just check the OTC comp yesterday pulled 3 codes.

P0115 engine coolant temp sensor -------my fans dont turn on anymore. i did unplug the sensor tab n fan turns on...

P0306 Cylinder # 6 misfire...

P0340 camshaft Pos sensor. A circuit 1

i have to head down to NY right now so i ll check on this when i get back. thanks guys

maximariceboi

iTrader: (32)

ok so i was testing the coils...it seems only cylinder 2 and 3 are firing..even switched the coils around..same thing.

i had some white smoke when starting up the car as well..still found nothing...

i followed the jumpers from this thread http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....ghlight=jumper
shown by dandymax


is there anybody local that can help me out?

8:39pm...now its showing up a as random misfire...

DandyMax

iTrader: (7)

If the fans aren't turning on, try changing JP13 to OPEN. It's possible your 99 might have the same coolant sensor as the 5th gens and those guys seem to need the jumper set to OPEN (from what I've seen so far).

As for the rest of it, it still kinda sounds like wiring/electrical trouble to me. If you wish, send me your em2 setup file and I'll look it over just to eliminate that possibility.

maximariceboi

iTrader: (32)

well as of now its running on 2 cylinders...2 and 3 are the only ones firing...

that would be cool if u look over the file for me..i have several files that i made for fixing 1 problem and other files that someone was helping me with the vtec setting and others

DandyMax

iTrader: (7)

Send the file to dvrditar @ hotmail . com (no spaces) and also give me a list of your jumper settings too please. I'll look at it all tonight after work.

maximariceboi

iTrader: (32)

sounds great. thanks for your help.

car doesnt start up now just cranks..

maximariceboi

iTrader: (32)

swapped cam pos sensors wit my other max...car still wont start...took the resistors off n reset ecu...no start...flood ecu signal..car starts up sorot of but runs like crap again...going to check the cel tomorrw sometime when i get back home...takin this eu off sometime this week...unless somebody wants to help n look at it soon..thanks

maximariceboi

iTrader: (32)

Still no luck with the car..

Matty showed up and helped me out. he checked all my wiring..wiring was fine..but re did the ground for the injectors. we changed all 6 plugs. i hooked up the crank and cam line. Tried starting up the car...no start still.

Checked the codes, showing up as P1320 and another code for i think P0300 for random misfire.

I changed the coolant temp sensor since i had a cel on while my car was running rough. Tried starting it up again and still no start.

Only thing left is putting it back to stock which i will be taking the eu out sometime this week and hopefully it starts up fine...

Already emailed greddy about this issue that I'm having so hopefully they can help out. If anyone has any ideas let me know. Thanks

DandyMax

iTrader: (7)

It's very odd that you're getting a P1320 code if the resistors are wired in correctly and are the right size... that is exactly the code you get without them in place.

Did Matty check the resistor wiring inside the EU too or just the external harness stuff..?

What you guys need to do is swap your EU unit. Flash his EU with a new file with zeroed settings for the VQ30 and then put it in your car and see what happens. If you still get the same problems, then you know it's not the EU box, and will be an electrical/wiring problem on your car. However, if it runs fine, then it would seem you have a defective EU and should be able to get a warranty replacement.

maximariceboi

iTrader: (32)

i took the resistors off and thought it would do something. that P1320 code i know but the P0300 random misfire is the issue. I ll ask him about swapping EU units to see what happens. The EU i bought was from ebay off of this guy but was brand new with the harness and everything. you think that this will still be under warranty?

maximariceboi

iTrader: (32)

got the car started up couple days ago. no problem at start. so the eu was messed up somehow and its in the mail going back to greddy for repairs. i got a pending cel code when i got my car started....p1320...weird...reseted it and its gone i think....

today cel code of P0171....
need new shifter bushing as well and maybe new cat....something is rattling under the car..still cant find out what it is.

and my stillen/brembo rear rotor is cracked lol fun

maximariceboi

iTrader: (32)

just to update i got my eu back yesterday from greddy and the fixed/tested it so its fine now.

DandyMax

iTrader: (7)

Did they say what was defective? Which circuit board version was it?

maximariceboi

iTrader: (32)

they said something with the ignition chip. its one of the new circuit boards they told me but i didnt ask which version and didnt bother looking when i got it back..its still in the box =/