So I need a new motor. Ive done the de-k so I know how and everything and costs. Havent done the 3.5. so dont know all about the costs.

De-k:....................................3.5
Motor - $700 with 19K.............$700 with 34K(needs front valve cover $50)
tb/iacv adapter $140...............tb & cam spacers $265 I think from stephen
not much work.......................lots of work
not much gain........................a lot more gain
rpm switch $65.......................clutch $300
...........................................path tb $150

$900ish.................................$1500ish

ok questions- I dont have a clue about the problems with starting the 3.5. I have read lots of ppl having fuel problems/not starting/no fires/fuel cut offs...it seems like there is a lot to go wrong with this swap.. just need some feedback from those who have done it. I only have a week to get it done either one. I know the de-k will take no where near as long as 3.5, and I have a little less than 2g's...What kind of stuff will I run into with the 3.5, is the risk kind of high of what can/will go wrong..reliability..stuff like that. Thanks - Matt

 

Start with my thread here:

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=450002

Then search. This should give you a good start.

 

well start at the fact that your numbers are wrong

TB & Cam spacers???? no ... It is Cam Adapters which are $100 shipped
The amount of work done is exagerated as most of it is done while the engine is out for you just change how things are done in the first place. It is not like you have to do extra work on top of it.

The problems are that there is so much to getting an engine to work that people *&^% up simple things. When they find the simple answer then everything works.

The "extra things" are:
1.) Expanding the timing case hole (Crap ... you expand a hole till a screw fits through ... count me out on the difficulty here)
2.) Splicing the injector harnesses (has to be done for DEK swap)
3.) T-ing off the fuel line (whoopty do ... my 7 year old brother can t-off a line)
4.) Swapping oil pans (done while the engine is out ... or you can shave off 1/4 of an inch from the CPS on the trans ... I prefer swapping oil pans because it is a direct fit anyway)
5.) Remount IACV (has to be done with DEK swap too)
6.) Re-wrap coil harnesses to extend (oh no ... you have to cut black tubes, stretch wires, and rewrap them ... the sister I will never have can do that)
7.) Replace hoses, belts, and filters (big deal ... this should be done with a DEK swap too).

Clearly you can see the extra steps are small and have to be done in the DEK swap too usually. The CAM adapters are really the only rough part.

 

i believe you can still use the 3.5 oil pan with the 3.5 CPS and all you have to do is splice the wires. you can do all this work if you have the tools and all parts in less then 2 days.

 

You can ... but IMO I think it would be somewhat easier to revert to stock if you just swapped the pans and used the 3.0 CPS. You have to shave a quarter of an inch off the transmission where the CPS mounts to keep the appropriate distance from the sensor to the flywheel.

 

since when did you have to shave anything from a transmission?

I just used the 3.5 sensor, easy as pie.

 

well it says it in the FAQ ....

 

You have to remove some material if you plan on using the 3.0 CPS (POS) with the 3.5 oil pan.

 

So common sense says 3 options ... please correct me if I am wrong
3.5 oil + 3.5 CPS = no work
3.0 oil + 3.0 CPS = no work
3.5 oil + 3.0 CPS = shave a quarter of an inch.

 

You have to cut off the 3.0 connector and solder on the 3.5 connector to make that work. You're right about the other 2 though...