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3.5 swap- can I use x, x, and x from 3.0?

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Old 10-10-2006, 03:58 PM
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hey, was wondering if i could use the headers and the y-pipe from a 3.0 on a 3.5. Because my friend is sellin me them but im saving up for a 3.5 now and i dnt wnna get em if they're goin to be useless once i upgrade
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Old 10-10-2006, 04:21 PM
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^ yes.......
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Old 10-10-2006, 04:57 PM
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no iacv here
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Old 10-10-2006, 10:39 PM
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haha, nismo, that made me laugh. Thanks guys. I feel bad asking this question because I'll be picking up & tearing through the parts 3.0 tomorrow or the next day so I'll answer it then......

Question #11: I can't use the minty fresh 44k 3.5l secondary tensioners or guides correct?
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Old 10-10-2006, 11:29 PM
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I know this probably has been covered before but what about the EGR on a 3.5? How does that work in terms does the 3.0 equipment need to be swapped over?
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Old 10-11-2006, 03:56 AM
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Originally Posted by KRRZ350
Any pics of your iacv adaptor?

grabbed from the 3.5 sticky. Thats Dubbya's car. The IACV adapter is behind the intake manifold
Originally Posted by jcy98maxse
I know this probably has been covered before but what about the EGR on a 3.5? How does that work in terms does the 3.0 equipment need to be swapped over?
Most dont run egr on the 3.5. I thought GoalieKeg rigged up the 04 external egr on his car, but I'm not a 100% sure.
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Old 10-11-2006, 11:20 PM
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HOLY CRAP! The retail on that oil cooler is...........$310!!!!!!

Question #11: I can't use the minty fresh 44k 3.5l secondary tensioners or guides correct?
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Old 10-12-2006, 12:22 AM
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NO you cannot
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Old 10-12-2006, 04:09 AM
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Yes you can use the 3.5 secondary tensioners.
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Old 10-27-2006, 03:01 AM
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Sorry to bring up a two week old thread, but I was wondering if there was any other difference between the 3.5 and the 3.0 aftermarket pulley other than the timing ring? If i remove the ring, will it work with the 3.5 or just use the stock 3.5?

Also noticed the 3.5 have individual CAM sensor on both heads, I'm assuming just leave them in place but not plugged in and use the 3.0 cam sensor on the timing cover, correct?
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Old 10-27-2006, 06:30 AM
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Originally Posted by jcy98maxse
Sorry to bring up a two week old thread, but I was wondering if there was any other difference between the 3.5 and the 3.0 aftermarket pulley other than the timing ring? If i remove the ring, will it work with the 3.5 or just use the stock 3.5?
To my knowlege, the 3.0 crank pulley should be used. I believe the marking for TDC and such are differnent than on the 3.5. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.
Originally Posted by jcy98maxse
Also noticed the 3.5 have individual CAM sensor on both heads, I'm assuming just leave them in place but not plugged in and use the 3.0 cam sensor on the timing cover, correct?
Correct.
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Old 11-03-2006, 09:55 PM
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Sorry to bump a week old thread, had a couple questions of my own.
#1:
Originally Posted by 95mtlMAXSE
The flywheel should be fine with a 5th gen clutch set up...don't forget the timing ring on the stock one
Is that the timing ring on the stock 3.0L flywheel, or on the 3.5 flywheel? Are they different?


#2: cam adaptors...where do I find these? Tried searching, couldn't find anyone specifically selling these.


Lastly,
#3 on the first page you guys said the FAQ is kind of outdated...how so? I'm planning this swap eventually (into a 1st gen Altima no less). I've been spending lots of time searching the site trying to find out as much info as possible, so if anything has changed significantly that would affect a swap, please someone with knowledge tell me. Thanks!
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Old 11-04-2006, 05:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Red Lion
Is that the timing ring on the stock 3.0L flywheel, or on the 3.5 flywheel? Are they different?

They are differnent and you wont be able to use the 3.5 flywheel. Use the 3.0. The time you would transfer the timing ring, is if you have a fidanza flywheel, that doesnt have the timing ring on it.

Originally Posted by Red Lion
#2: cam adaptors...where do I find these? Tried searching, couldn't find anyone specifically selling these.
PM Stephen Max, he can make a set for you
Originally Posted by Red Lion
Lastly,
#3 on the first page you guys said the FAQ is kind of outdated...how so? I'm planning this swap eventually (into a 1st gen Altima no less). I've been spending lots of time searching the site trying to find out as much info as possible, so if anything has changed significantly that would affect a swap, please someone with knowledge tell me. Thanks!
That FAQ is good and accurate to get the majority of the work done. There are many things that arent stated in the FAQ but they are small things and its easily figured out when your doing the swap. If you read thru that swap and understand the work you need to do to prepair the motor for go in, and extra small things will come to you easy. If not make a thread surely you'll get an answer to your question.
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Old 11-26-2006, 06:15 PM
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Originally Posted by diymaximakid
its the easier alternative to drilling and relocating the pins.I have a set if you wanna buy it from me.

alright it's been well over a month since you've received my money order, stop telling me your on a "buissness trip" and give me my money back or ship my cam adaptors
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Old 01-18-2007, 09:32 PM
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sent to diymaximakid in a pm...........
Originally Posted by KRRZ350
just to let you know........ Your cam adaptors are junk! there is so much slop and there is no way I'm risking running them, you know if that ghetto-fabrication breaks I bend valves and possibly destroy pistons and heads right? You can refund me my money and I'll send them back or I'll toss them in the trash, I am already ordering a QUALITY set from stephen_max, thanks


Note the "quality control" on the drilled washers for the exh. cam spacers, I wonder what sort of tolerance the intake dowels are at, .1 foot?
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Old 01-18-2007, 09:35 PM
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Which cam timing spec did you end up choosing?
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Old 01-18-2007, 10:01 PM
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none yet, toss me a number that you think would go good with a 75 shot and I'll ask stephen max if it's not a hassle for him, you're like THE MAN, so whatever you recommend is cool with me (I WILL blame you if my valves hit though.....j/k), it will have safc and dyno tuning WAY down the road...

ON A SIDE NOTE! I've spent the past hour searching through vsamoylov post's and apparantly he runs a 2k2 ecu and vtc yet I can't seem to find ANY info about his set-up other than the z33 im thread which doesn't have anything......
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Old 01-18-2007, 10:06 PM
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just got your pm, thanks for the info, I totally missed that, I'm going to have to re-read that a few times until I can visualize it
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Old 01-19-2007, 04:26 AM
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Originally Posted by KRRZ350
none yet, toss me a number that you think would go good with a 75 shot and I'll ask stephen max if it's not a hassle for him, you're like THE MAN, so whatever you recommend is cool with me (I WILL blame you if my valves hit though.....j/k), it will have safc and dyno tuning WAY down the road...
I think a 56* valve closing will be a good compromise. More top-end while still having 10* of overlap and without killing the mid-range too much. This is 8* (crank) of retard so the actual spacer will need to be retarded 4*.
ON A SIDE NOTE! I've spent the past hour searching through vsamoylov post's and apparantly he runs a 2k2 ecu and vtc yet I can't seem to find ANY info about his set-up other than the z33 im thread which doesn't have anything......
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=487345

If you're SERIOUSLY interested in doing the full swap with 2k2 ECU let me know and i'll share the info i have. eng92 has done this too, btw.
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Old 01-19-2007, 04:37 PM
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thanks for the replies above! I'm going to ask two more questions:

1) How much HP is the 4th gen MAF good for? I'm planning a VQ35DE swap obviously and at the least I'll have intake, exhaust, headers, cams and ECU. I doubt I'll supercharge it but I might add nitrous and maybe even ITB's later down the line. Too much for the 4th Gen? I thought about going with a Z32 MAF just to be on the safe side.

2) Speaking of cams, would 3.0 cams work in the 3.5 so I can by pass the whole drilling/spacing aspect? I believe someone here said they were going that route, maybe JCLaw? I figured I'd go ahead and stick some JWT 3.0 cams in there now since I would have added performance cams later, and this can bypass the drilling/spacer aspect. Should make more power than the 3.5 cams right, and basically as much as JWT 3.5 cams would?


thanks for the huge help guys!
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Old 01-19-2007, 07:39 PM
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Answer to #2--- GO HERE read the whole thing and you will find mucho info, towards the end someone asks the same question actually, but yes, any 3.0 cams will work in a 3.5 without spacers, the cams are specific to the timing gears, aka 3.0 cams & 3.0 cam gears=no spacers/drilling or adaptors required

Answer to #1---A veteran can double check me on this since I'm probably wrong, but I don't think you will run into any problems on a non-boosted 4th gen maf. Now, you mentioned an ecu upgrade also, and this sort of goes hand in hand with the maf question (well not really, but I'm drunk and rambling so.....) I am DEFFINITLY not the one to give info about a32 ecu upgrades, I just recently started reading up on this stuff myself (disclaimer out of the way), but I THINK (not positive) that there are two preffered ecu options here on the org for 3.5 swappers, the safc-II piggyback, and the e-manage ultimate, some of the veterans here can give you more info but if you're really going to do a 3.5 swap you should donate and search for the answers yourself, there is a wealth of info about both systems on here, hope this starts you off in the right direction though.
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Old 01-19-2007, 07:44 PM
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thanks for the link and info nismo, I'm not seriously interested though, not for my car in the near future anyways, but it's good to know it has been done and to have a better idea of how. pm sent to stephen-max
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Old 01-19-2007, 07:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Red Lion
How much HP is the 4th gen MAF good for?
350 BHP.........
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Old 01-19-2007, 08:22 PM
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I'm ****ting a brick, this thing is going to SCREW! this is my horsepower geusstimation....... and I'm drunk so it's probably off.......

a33=255 hp, subtract for no vtc and 4th gen fuel/timing maps (for now! I swear!) but add for no e-gas, no pre-cats (a full exhaust), an intake, and 56* atdc intake valve opening= ?still at 255hp? then add an inline fuel-pump (sitting next to me, thank you mustang buddy , 1-step colder, and a 75 shot of nx wet (sitting next to me, thank you mustang buddy = 330HP at the flywheel!!

channel it through a vlsd 5mt w/fidanza, some nittos (borrowed, thanks yet again mustang buddy , j-claws traction bars, stiffer mounts, and some SERIOUS diy subframe connectors (I'm going silly underneath this thing, just wait I'm shooting for mid 13's n/a and high 12's w/spray
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Old 01-19-2007, 08:57 PM
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can you use 3.0 coils on a 05 3.5 motor??
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Old 01-19-2007, 09:02 PM
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Originally Posted by 95 maxima se
can you use 3.0 coils on a 05 3.5 motor??
Nope. They're too long.
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Old 02-28-2007, 11:44 AM
  #67  
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Question #12: Obviously I could get around it, but it would be much easier if I had it......I lost the little gold nub in the picture below, did I throw it out when I destroyed the Drive-By-Wire? WHO KNOWS, but it's gone, anyone have an extra one laying around or can come up with a nissan part number (I know, I know, it's a sealed Unit!!)

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Old 02-28-2007, 12:27 PM
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i'll check my garage. . .
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Old 02-28-2007, 12:33 PM
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My throttle body didnt come with that gold ring so I had to make my own, which I need to switch out.
I made the hole to big so it has a little play in it.
I wonder why mine did have that.
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Old 03-26-2007, 10:43 AM
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Just got back from vacation and started working on the swap a little more since the mustang build is having a bit of an issue. Thought I would throw up pics of my tps set-up. It is SOLID!! In fact, I accidentaly caught myself using it to push the engine around on the stand the other day! Basically, I cut off a large chunk from the 3.0 tb with a dremel cut-off wheel and using quick-steel I epoxied it to the 3.5 tb (everything epoxied was ground rough and sprayed with brake-cleaner, years of motocross racing has made me a bit of a profesional at parts fabrication/repair with 2-part epoxy, lmao), I eyeballed it and had to keep moving it back in to position until it set, the next morning before I added some more epoxy to reinforce it, I measured it and it is centered to the throttle body shaft within 1/64"!! I was missing the gold nub so more epoxy was used to duplicate that also. The tps turns and adjust's perfect!!!
Also, since I know someone will pick up on this- the main reason I dremeled the e-gas motor housing off of the 3.5 tb was in a failed attempt at cruise control non p/f tb, I haven't given up on this yet either Also, as you can see I also accidentaly removed the wot stop!!! So I had to make another one of those with epoxy also. I'll include some more pics once I pick up some more epoxy, smooth everything over, and paint it.
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Old 03-26-2007, 10:53 AM
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Question #13: To those with swaps, both with and without iacv how would you describe your idle set-up, and did you adjust the 3.5 tb factory stop? then answer the main part of question 13- How are your cold starts, hot starts, do you have to feather or touch the gas?

Adapting the 3.0 cold-start valve is not completely out of the question, but I am leaning towards the idea of adapting the de-k style vacuum controlled start valve....
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Old 03-26-2007, 11:11 AM
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Originally Posted by KRRZ350
Question #13: To those with swaps, both with and without iacv how would you describe your idle set-up, and did you adjust the 3.5 tb factory stop? then answer the main part of question 13- How are your cold starts, hot starts, do you have to feather or touch the gas?
My setup:

3.5 TB converted to cable
No IACV
No TPS adjustment whatsoever


Idle: 900-1000rpm after I shaved a bit of the bump stop.

Warm starts: No issues
Cold starts: Tap the gas for 1-2 seconds.
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Old 03-31-2007, 01:28 AM
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EXACTLY what I was looking for. Anyone else?
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