Does it replace the rear O2 or is in addition to. And is it really worth it once an SAFC II and AFPR is already setup? I'm a newb with this wideband thing.

 

I think it does replace the rear O2. It is very worth it to tune with because you will get a much more accurate reading thus the tuning is far more effective. People are leaning away from SAFC/VAFC/SMT because of e-Manage, but it is already in your car so.......

 

The only way you should use it in place of your rear o2 is if you have a test pipe. The cat skews the reading. This is why most people install it in the y-pipe collector.

 

You can take any of your front bank O2 out and place the WB in its place. There's usually an optional NB signal wire from the WB O2 kit that you can connect it to your ECU's NB signal wire. But you'll get O2 reading from one of the banks only. Not a good idea.

Like Nismo said, conventionally, we'd just weld a bong there at the Y pipe collector before the cat converter and save the day.

-Peter-

 

With regards to tuning, I have a WB and VAFC2, do I also need the AFPR for proper tuning? I also installed the 00VI with 5th gen injectors, and fuel rail setup....

 

You don't need it for tuning. But you might add a bit of timing if you do things right. http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=434821

 

What have you been doing with your maxima? heh

 

Is that a question?

 

LMAO^^^^^^ bung....is more like it

bung>bong for maximas

 

LMAO...

I guess I've been smoking with Cattman's exhaust. Hehehe.

Sorry I didn't catch my own spelling mistake. Let's keep it that way for its sake.

 

ok, I installed my Zt-2 WB. How exactly do I tune it? Do I want 14.7 across the rpm range?

 

God you're ..




Try 13.5:1....

 

I know I need to get it in 3rd gear, BUT my question IS: do I want 3rd gear when 2nd ends flooring it from stop(80ish mph)(1>2>D), or do I want 3rd driving like a grandma(40ish mph) and then floor it?

 

The higher the gear, the leaner the reading will be. I use 2nd. Because it's sane and in the A33B, gives you a decent amount of tuning resolution.

 

I still need to quadruple check if the VAFC2 is hooked up correctly. Question: on the VAFC2, where you adjust the numbers +/- per rpm, is does that add/ subtract gas? I need to check which wires are supposed to be hooked up.

 

ok, I've done some more street tuning today. And i have some questions. I had to move the markers for the corrections all into the negative, does that sound right? at least my AFR is now 13.0 to 13.5, runs were done in 2nd gear in AUTO. All i need to adjust is the Wide Throttle, and not the Narrow Throttle? Cuz all i did was the Wide, on the Lvt and Hvt map. all the points had to be moved into the negative for the current 13.0-13.5 AFR.
Let me know if this looks correctly? Thanks guys.

 

The VQ ECU naturally runs rich in open loop, so yes, this would be correct.

 

word...when i order my new y-pipe my tuner is going to drill and tap for a wideband bung at the collector...and yes all negatives is about right...13s are still pretty safe too...also i think with the 4th gen u only need to tune 40% throttle and up and above 3k rpms....the stock ECU will correct for anything lower....i think

 

what do u mean 13s are safe too, what is the SAFEST range for non-boosted? do you have a VAFC2? do you know what the Throttle setting is for, with the percentages? Currently I have it set to 40% and 90%, thats what i read on some thread last month, but i cant find it to reread it again. I might know what the 40% is, but I've no clue what the 90% is for....

 

Safe range depends on fuel grade also.

 

i run 93 ALWAYS.

 

Then 13.5 should be safe for short WOT bursts.

 

when the AFR is higher, does that mean that there is more gas or more air?

 

More air. It's an air to fuel ratio so it's always X Parts air for every 1 part fuel.

 

so is it BAD if the AFR is too high or too low? when its too lean(too low) then not enough gas, which = MUCH WORSE than running rich(too high)? cuz when running rich than you have more than enough fuel, and cant really hurt the engine besides waste fuel like crazy, and mess up spark plugs as compared to not enough fuel and fuxoring up the engine?

 

also, what exactly happens when I go + and when I go - on the correction factors in the VAFC2? does that take away maf voltage or add maf voltage?

 

Lean is numerically high. (14:1 is leaner than 10:1)


read above comment.

Unburned fuel can damage rings and also take away the effeciency of the oil.
The MAF is a 0-5v device. If it's at 4.5v, then you're almost at its capacity for measuring airflow, therefore, it's almost maxed out.

So, you add more voltage, and you will add more fuel, and that would be the + re: the vafc.

Take away voltage and that's the - .

 

farking brilliant!! THANKS man you are a life saver.