I have recently installed an 00VI in my 1995 maxima. I have a VAFCII controlling the activation point and I plan on tuning the car with it as well. I am currently having a knock sensor code in my car that I cannot erase. I am wondering if this is because I hav the purple wire hooked up to the knock sensor wire on the ecu. From what I have read it sounds like the knock sensor wire should not be hooked up on a VAFCII on a fourth gen. Is this true? Could this be causing my un erasable knock sensor code?

My current set up is:
00VI
JWT ecu w/ 7200 rev limit
Ypipe and 2.5" catback
A32 MAF
De-k stock injectors


When I am setting up my Ne points I use both the Hi and Low cam settings correct? Can I do the fist 12 Ne points on the Low cam setting then do the next 12 in numerical order on the Hi cam setting? Or do I have to switch back and fourth. For example, if I was using Ne points that are 300 rmp apart, could I put 600 and 900 on Low Cam, or would I need to alternate and put 600 on low cam and 900 on high cam? Sorry if this is a dumb question but its something I thought about.

Since I am running larger injectors where should I start my corrections? ~800? Then for Ne points I would just take 6400 and devide (800-7200) by 24?

Also when setting the VT cont. to activate the manifold you are supposed to set it to an opeing point and then a point where it goes back to the longer runners. How far apart should those points be? Currently I have the point to open set at 5100 and the point to close at 4900, is this fine? Should the closing point be lower?

Thanks for any advice.

 

That's a possibility.

Nor a 5th or 6th gen since it really serves no purpose to us.

Again, it definitely is a possibility. But you should investigate further as far as the KS is concerned. Spec the resistance out. Even though a bad sensor can still be 'spec'd' out.

Nice set-up, would be interested in dyno #'s. Have you though of adding a wbo2 sensor in there as well as a larger/bored MAF housing + 70mm PFTB? Just a thought or 2.


Not sure since I do not have a VAFC, but it sure does sound like the first part of this is correct from reading this ---> http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=461576

Since you're using a stock MAF, you should be fine in closed loop. Only @ WOT (>40% throttle) would need corrections. But you can verify this with a wbo2. Even then, the JWT should keep things very close to where you want them to be. I noticed this on my A33B set-up. I have a TS ECU and am using Z33 injectors, but to may amazement, my AFR is pretty darn good. I suspect this is from the TS ECU. It makes for a much better baseline to start tuning from, and also makes it much easier to keep a nice straight line. (AFR curve) This also has been debated as to whether aftermarket ECU 'tune' can be altered, and both TS and JWT seem to be overridden by the AFC, meaning the AFC will alter the settings and any corrections made will be seen.


From my experience w/ VI's, the RPM switch would just activate and deactivate at the desired RPM. Such as close open @ 5100, & close @ 5100 IIRC on the way down.

 

Thanks for the detailed reply. I have thought about a w02 but I have just not made the move yet, and yes I do plan on dynoing this set up. I am talking to my dyno guy, it looks like I will have it on the rollers this friday, that's why I am trying to get everything sorted out before then. I am still have the problem of have my cylinder 2 coil blowing off under heavy accel, I am waiting to get another 5th gen coil (I had to use a fourth gen coil so its not bolted down).

I am going to cut the purple wire off of my knock sensor wire this evening, and it looks like according to SR thread about the set up I should set up the low cam in numberical order then go to the hi cam setting can continue in the number sequence.

 

Correct. Actually the low cam will be the RPM points up to the VI activation(VTEC) and hi cam will be all the RPM correction points when your VI is activated. I wouldn't make any corrections to AF until you get on the dyno, just stay out of open loop till then.

 

I am not going to make any corrections until I get to the dyno but I would like to already have my Ne points set up so it will not take any more time than it has to. I plan on renting the dyno for an hour. So I would like to have a nice tune with in that time. The only other way they sell time is by 3 pulls and I doubt I will have a tune I am satisfied with by the time three pulls is up.

So you are saying, since I have my activation point set at 5100 I should make low cam corrections from 800-5000 and then hi cam corrections should be made from 5100-7200?

Thanks for the advice.

 

yes
456789

 

I just set up my Ne points....let me know how they look. Also I have the throttle settings at Narr: 39% Wide: 40%...where should these be?

Ne-P:Lvt

1)1000
2)1400
3)1800
4)2200
5)2600
6)3000
7)3400
8)3800
9)4100
10)4400
11)4700
12)5000

Ne-P: Hvt
1)5100
2)5300
3)5500
4)5700
5)5900
6)6100
7)6300
8)6500
9)6700
10)6900
11)7100
12)7200

How do these look? My switch over point is set at 5100. For the people who have dyno tuned this set up, is 5100 the mose efficient point to set the switch over? Thanks.

 

1-5 on low cam are pointless because the ECU controls under 3000RPM and under 40% throttle... unless you plan on unhooking your front O2 sensors
Also I'd set the last point on low cam and 1st point on high cam the same, not sure if it will really matter or not, and be prepared to change them in case you're VI activation point needs to be moved around.

 

ok I will only make the corrections after 3 grand. I have run into a problem though. I was monitoring the VAFC function today and it is not accurate. When I push my throttle it does not show a reading until I push the throttle 20% (a guess) in. When i reach the 20% the VAFCII will start there at 1%. Also my RMPs are way off...not quite double but they are off. At idle my tach will be showing ~800 and the VAFCII will be showing some where around 1400. i am guessing this has something to do with the way I hooked it up. VQed is also having this issue. What have I hooked up wrong. I hooked two red wires from the VAFCII to the power pin on the ecu...is this wrong? Thats the only thing I could think that would be out of line. I am going to go read my manual but I would appreciate any imput on this. i am not going to dyno if I cannot get the VAFCII to read correctly.

 

ok I figured out this problem...I need to go through the initialization process again.

My other question remains as to where to set the Narrow and Wide throttle. Like I stated before they are set at 39% and 40%. Is this correct? In not, why not, and where should they be? Thanks.

 

With those 2 settings(39 & 40), you will not be making any chances other than @ 39+, this is fine for your set-up.

A wb o2 that you can monitor is best when choosing your set points(whether Ne points, or thr points). That is more for those who have a more complex set-up.

But for your set-up, you're just fine @ that setting.

 

I discovered that I got better corrections when I used 10% and 90%.
The point of tuning the low throttle, low rpm settings is to get the ECU fuel trims to a low value. You'll need a OBD2 scanner to see them.

 

But, isn't your set-up a touch more complex than his?

Meaning, no need for those low thr settings? Or am I just being a

 

so if I lower the Narrow number I can correct lower in the throttle position? I would like to get the best gas mileage out of this set up while making maximum power, so I would like to be able to adjust down low as well, since I have DE-K injectors and I am using my JWT A32 ECU.

 

you can tune anything above 3k dosnt matter if your in the wide map or in the narrow. I dont suggest you make any corrections using the narrow map since you dont kno where your a/f is at during part throttle, and I kno you wont be tuning your car on a dyno at part throttle either. Just stick to the Wide map. Once you get your wideband o2, you'll be able to tune at w/e RPM you want.

 

Well none of it matters since he has the JWT ECU. People in the FI forums are always complaining about the JWT having a complete dynamic map.

 

That's with the boosted fellas.

96sleeper was able to tune using his JWT N/A program.

 

I'm not sure if you are mixed up about which car I am doing this on. I have a 98 that is boosted on stock ecu. The car that I put the 00VI on is my 95 which is N/A and I have a JWT ecu.

 

good thread, same questions I have. gonna look through this

 

. . .

 

I tuned my car on the dyno today, I am at 190/190. The car feels like a beast though.

 

graphs please

 

So, it seems like you corrected the problem with your V-afc2. Is there something you did to solve the problem? if you could lead me through what you did would help me a lot. Also, what are your correction points and setups?? if you wanna share, cool with me...

 

Runfiles, graphs, AFR

 

I'm waiting to have them emailed to me. I'll make a post in the dyno section once I get them.

 

[QUOTE=cardana24]ok I figured out this problem...I need to go through the initialization process again.

ok so, you corrected the problem by reinitializing the computer again and you had correct RPM idle readings after this? If you could just tell me the procedures you did would get me good results also. If you have the answer, give it to me man, it would be very appreciated...

 

[QUOTE=VQ'ed]yes I went back through and made sure everything was set right. I did not tell it to initialize though (I think that clears all of the info.) When I went through, I found that mine was set up for a 4 cylinder car and the car had not learned the throttle yet. As I stated before I still have both power wires hooked up and I did the procedure outlined on page 13. After I did this everything seems to be reading correctly for me. Good luck with yours.

 

help me find my missing power http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....74#post5644074