I know this will probably get shot down but Id really like to get some input on it. My motor took a poop and im tossing up ideas.

Im basically basing most of the idea from this:
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....t=vq33+stroker

(using a 3.5 crank and rods in a 3.0 to make a stroked 3.3L)

My possible plan is:

3.0 block
3.5 crank
3.5 rods (maybe the scat rods)
3.0 pistons (oversize 1mm / .040, only if a bore is needed on my block)
3.0 DE-K Heads that have been ported and polished
00VI with lower runners ported
maybe some 3.5 cams for the 1mm+ in lift
3.5 oil pump


Just the idea of a fatass powerband makes me really want to try this. Gaining TQ from the Stroke, with the upper end of the oovi / de-K motor, with some betterflowing heads and increased compression to top it off.

It would also atleast be fuel tuned for now untill I got a emange Ultimate to fully tune next year. It would also most likley see some nitrous as well, probably a 75 shot

Money wise I have the de-k motor / 00vi already, I port and polish for the most part of my self employed career so thats basically free, 3.5 crank and rods shouldnt run that much, I can rebuild the motor...think thats about it.

I dunno, I know most will say just do a 3.5 swap, but I think this may be worth looking into more. Only 1 problem I have is noone seems to know for an absolute fact if the lower end will work.

Well, what do you guys think?

 

It will indeed get shot down because there's no point. To get all the necessary items you'd need a 3.5, and if you have a 3.5 you may as well just use the whole thing and have a better package right off the bat.

 

Can't really see how this would be better than a 3.5 block with 3.0 heads

And I'm still not sure that anybody has confirmed whether or not the pistons would hit the head or not and/or what the precise resulting compression ratio would be.

 

Why do people insist on these exotic combos when theres NO point.

Boneyard VQ35 600-800$
Used aftermarket cams 600-800$
Cams drilled + Spacers 200$

Youre done. 260whp.

 

There was 3 motors I think build with 3.5 bottom 3.0 heads and pistons. All were used on Turbo or S/C applications b/c the 3.5 bottom have oil squirters to cool down the engine.

Money wise I think its the way to go. It might even be more streetable b/c most 3.5 swaps in 4th gens have problems getting traction. And if you can get the power to the ground it may be the difference to you winning.

I would go a step further though and try to do a e degree angle for you valves.

Also, the crank is said to have 11.62.

 

what would I need a 3.5 for if I wanted to do this? Crank I can get seperatley, rods I will prob. buy aftermarket, oil pump is just for saftey and not a must, cams are a maybe just to "top" things off.

The people I have been able to find who did this N/A seemed to do a very odd combonation of parts and zero tuning. I think it was tilley who ran a 13.8 at almost 100 mph with the 3.5 lower end / 3.0 top end w/ jwt cams but was using a usim and no tuning. The 00Vi seems to be good for an average of .5-.6 tenths off a 1/4 time. Tuning can play a huge role as we all know. Dont the de-k heads flow a little better already over the de heads?

 

Thats one benefit I was thinking of

What do you mean about the valves and crank?

 

Thats what I would really really like to know, even if I dont do it, just to know.

Unfortunatley other than getting the parts and claying the motor there isnt much way to tell.

Although, with the right numbers it should be able to be figured out on paper.

 

It's never really been confirmed that the 3.0 heads are any better than the 3.5 heads. If anything, you'd think you would have better options with the 3.5 heads due to the better aftermarket. It just doesn't make sense to do anything other than 3.5 swap, especially when you look at cost. Cost isn't the only upside, though.

 

http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...&postcount=218

 

I hear ya. Actually I think the flowbench post on here showed that the 3.5 heads do outflow the the 3.0 heads except at high velocity on the exhaust side. I believe it was a 04 maxima head and a 96 maxima head. There is a number of reasons why not to do this set up and only a couple of why to try it.

 

Indulge me. Seriously, I'm just curious, not trying to be a d!ck

 

In theory, the powerband should be extremely usable you know the whole TQ of a 3.5 top end of a dek and I would hope a little easier to control. I want to say fuel use / MPG but thats not really relavent since we are talking about going fast here and Im just speculating that. Kinda Sleeper... Pop the hood and its still only a 3.0 there. Cost. Different.

Yeah I think thats all I got.

 

He was using a gutted 00VI IIRC.
There's no indication that they do.

 

Also I should have worded that better in my previous post. I meant the 30de heads vs. the 30de-k heads.... not the de-k heads vs. the 3.5 heads..my bad, misleading on my part

 

I just read it and didnt see anything about a 00vi, But i did leave out that he said it (the usim) was extrude honed. Unless he tried the 00vi later on ??

 

last time i checked the 3.5 made better top end than a DEK. especially with the SSIM

 

False. Peak numbers aside, but paying attention to the curve makes this false.

 

All that time and money for a hybrid setup and my money is on it making less power than a 3.5 with cams. Top end on a 3.5 is better anyway, especially with a tweaked IM and cams. Look at a 00VI or a MEVI next to a 3.5 IM, you will be amazed at the port size difference. I would bet a 00VI would starve that engine for air.

 

I really dont care about a dyno #. I just want to run N/A 12's on street tires in the 1/4 with it if I did it.

I agree a 3.5 swap does probably make more sense by far. Some stuid part of me wants to build this instead. Im sure it'll pass and I'll just do a 3.5.

But if I knew for sure the piston clearances were good with the stroker with out buying anything 1st, Id try it, just for ****s+giggles

 

Not gonna happen with the setup you're planning on having.

 

Dandymax is running a 13.00 @ 104 with :

Modifications:
00VI swap, Greddy EU, PF TB, Custom intake, Cattman h/y/cutout/catback, UDP, KSports, & more

granted slicks and a good driver help his time alot, but I woundlt go as far as to say it wouldnt be possible with what Im talking about

 

The point here is: You want 12's on street tires

 

Huge difference between a 1.7 60' time and a 2.x. He had to utilize a near-redline clutch dump. Try that with street tires and....well....you should see where I'm going with this. I'd love to be proven wrong though.

Just hitting low 13's with street tires will prove to be a handful, I'm sure.

 

The only way to hit a 12.99 NA on street tires is a LIGHT car (were talking Krismax territory) and a fully modded 3.5 swap with cams like 96sleeper. You better have GOOD street tires, lightweight 15-inch wheels, timing advance through with EU, a high flowing intake manifold (aftermarket, custom but NOT stock) and every single bolt on imaginable.

It will probably take 110 mph of trap speed to achieve this. And you will need either a 2.0 or high 1.9 60 foot, which is hard as hell. In fact a handful of us have been able to hit 2.0 60 footers on street tires, but a 1.9xx is totally unheard of.

Trying to achieve this goal with anything but a cammed 3.5 is foolish.

 

The only way this would be beneficial is if you found a blown 3.5 motor and the block was still intact. Getting that for about $100 and buying high compression pistons with upgraded valve springs will do the trick. Not really sure what setup is better but will soon find out. Both my friends are building their turbo 4th gens. One is going with a full 3.5 built motor and the other is going with the built 3.5 block with 3.0 heads. Will let everyone know the results.

 

Man some people like making things harder than they need to be lol. Even if you CAN get a 3.5 crank and rods for less than a whole VQ35 WTH is the point? For a few hundred more dollars you could have a 3.5 swap that will make way more power than all these stroker and wacked out combos will. Why the heck would you want to handicap yourself like that for the sake of like $200 saved?

 

Im just wondering here, whats the best 60" anyone has gotten with the vlsd, quaife, phantom grip, etc. + street tires ? Just wondering i dont really know

Im probably looking at things a little to general here. Im looking at it like : I already ran a 14.1 and a 2.1 60" on street tires, with not many mods at all. I look at what others have done and what they are running and take into consideration what I plan on doing more than what Im comparing it to and I am estimating certian times. Its dumb and a bad habit of mine and it only sets me up for dissapointment in the long run.

I just hope you guys know im not trying to argue or anything here and I do appreciate everyones input.

Just looking to do something a bit different is all.

 

a couple people have run 2.0s... and by a couple i do mean like two or three... out of the hundreds of people who have posted times here.

 

Also where the heck are some of you guys getting the idea that 3.0 heads flow better than 3.5 heads? I think some of you are confused...

 

i think they are saying the 00VI is better than a 3.5IM, there are flowbench charts that show the 3.5 heads are better, theres no argument there. i still think the 3.5 IM will have better top end than a 00vi, either on a 3.5 or 3.0 (if they fit perfectly on both)

 

The guys I'm talking about are specifically saying "heads" so unless they're just making a typo...

 

I think its my fault because I didnt specify 30de or 35de heads vs. the de-k heads before and I dont think a couple people knew what I was talking about. Ive seen the flowcharts a while ago and no doubt the 3.5 heads flow better.

 

DE = DE-K as far as flow is concerned, just to remove all doubt.

 

ah didnt know that , thank you

 

I pulled a 2.022 on OEM street tires. You NEED 15-inch wheels to be able to do that and even then...

The trick is to launch low with a gradual powerband. This would not have worked with VTCs. Thats why I think a cammed 3.5 is ideal to launch on street tires. The power comes on gradually, but you will probably have to let off at 5000+ in 1st.

I *think* Jime ran a 13.2@106 NA on street tires but he is auto. Much easier to launch.

 

Nice, do you have any kind of lsd?

 

I had a worn out (non-working) VLSD. I know this because we recently installed a working one and we definately noticed a difference.

A 1.9xx is totally unheard of though. Only us RWD guys can do that on street tires

Actually some SRT-4 guys have done it, but they dont count...

 

I've pulled 2.04 60fts on street tires (225/60/15's) but I run them at 15-17psi

oh yeah and I am a auto and I launch at idle

 

The lowest I went is 23 psi. They already looked soft enough.