Brian Crower Camshafts?
Brian Crower Camshafts?
Just wondering if anyone has these installed on their VQ's.
I'm not looking for a really agressive cam right now, just a step up. I pretty much have decided on JWT's or Brian Crowers. Has anyone had any experience with them? I've searched NicoClub, Fresh Alloy, 350Z tech and here and haven't found anything bad to say about them but not really any info at all.
Their site says the stage 2 cams (264/264, 10.41mm) are fine with OEM valvesprings. What do you think?
I'm not looking for a really agressive cam right now, just a step up. I pretty much have decided on JWT's or Brian Crowers. Has anyone had any experience with them? I've searched NicoClub, Fresh Alloy, 350Z tech and here and haven't found anything bad to say about them but not really any info at all.
Their site says the stage 2 cams (264/264, 10.41mm) are fine with OEM valvesprings. What do you think?
IMO, valvesprings depend on what RPM you are using. I suppose with a real aggressive cam, valve springs might play a small role, but even then, 2 stock rev limits, I don’t think it will be an issue.
What engine are they going in(what are you planning on putting them in)?
What engine are they going in(what are you planning on putting them in)?
Originally Posted by NmexMAX
IMO, valvesprings depend on what RPM you are using. I suppose with a real aggressive cam, valve springs might play a small role, but even then, 2 stock rev limits, I don’t think it will be an issue.
What engine are they going in(what are you planning on putting them in)?
What engine are they going in(what are you planning on putting them in)?
04 Maxima VQ35DE.
Had planned on setting redline to 7200RPM.
I knew valvesprings/etc would be necessary if I were to do a build up and try some really high RPM's, but for just 7200 with these cams the OEM should be okay wouldn't they?
Originally Posted by Red Lion
Had planned on setting redline to 7200RPM.Who did?
Originally Posted by Red Lion
I knew valvesprings/etc would be necessary if I were to do a build up and try some really high RPM's, but for just 7200 with these cams the OEM should be okay wouldn't they?
IIRC, A34 VS are a touch softer than A33B's.
Originally Posted by nismology
Aftermarket cams @ 7200 RPM w/stock valve springs = 
Why risk it?
Why risk it?
Increased valve lift = increased valve stroke speed @ same RPM. Combine that with a raised redline and the demands on the valvespring to keep the tappet in contact with the cam lobe at high RPM rise dramatically.
Originally Posted by nismology
Increased valve lift = increased valve stroke speed @ same RPM. Combine that with a raised redline and the demands on the valvespring to keep the tappet in contact with the cam lobe at high RPM rise dramatically.
hmmm, thanks for the input fellas. $308 for BC valvesprings/retainers is cheap insurance if I am going to run cams and try to get the 7200rpm redline out of the engine.
Originally Posted by NmexMAX
IIRC Nealoc187 did see some possible valve float on his VQ30 @ 7200 w/stock cams. 
Once about 7600 hits though all bets are off (again according to the model but that seems to be born out by user experience as several of us have noted a difference in engine tone at that rpm and it was where we "thought" float might be". IIRC JWT seems to think it starts at 7300 or so...)Now the VQ35 I have not modeled.. yet (I will eventually), but it has different valve train dynamics obviously.
well, the question of needing valvesprings or not is answered, but how do you all feel about BC's camshafts as far as reliability? Has anyone heard anything bad about them that would make me change my mind and pick another cam? I'm asking more about build quality than power, lift and duration, etc.
Originally Posted by Red Lion
well, the question of needing valvesprings or not is answered, but how do you all feel about BC's camshafts as far as reliability? Has anyone heard anything bad about them that would make me change my mind and pick another cam? I'm asking more about build quality than power, lift and duration, etc.
I've heard nothing but good about them as well.
Originally Posted by NmexMAX
Come on man. We've all said you should get them in when you're getting the cams. Use common sense and add them when you do the cams, because, you are doing them, right?
For the record, it's not common sense to me as my car came with a KA24DE originally and KA's don't need valvesprings/retainers to go from 6500 to 7200RPM with mild cams.
But I'm glad you guys told me otherwise about it, I'm still not 100% familiar with VQ basics. Thanks!
You may need them, you may not, but if you are going to take apart the valve train then you should do everything together that you can. It would not hurt as a little insurance. The trouble of swapping engine or tearing it down later just to change the springs is way more trouble than doing it while doing the cams.
I think that valve springs do hurt your low end though since they make it harder to open the valves. Something else to consider, but if you are installing cams and raising the rev limiter, a little bit of low end loss is to be expected.
I think that valve springs do hurt your low end though since they make it harder to open the valves. Something else to consider, but if you are installing cams and raising the rev limiter, a little bit of low end loss is to be expected.
Originally Posted by Red Lion
Huh? I said you guys answered the question and I was going to go ahead and get the valvesprings.
For the record, it's not common sense to me as my car came with a KA24DE originally and KA's don't need valvesprings/retainers to go from 6500 to 7200RPM with mild cams.
But I'm glad you guys told me otherwise about it, I'm still not 100% familiar with VQ basics. Thanks!
For the record, it's not common sense to me as my car came with a KA24DE originally and KA's don't need valvesprings/retainers to go from 6500 to 7200RPM with mild cams.
But I'm glad you guys told me otherwise about it, I'm still not 100% familiar with VQ basics. Thanks!
Originally Posted by SPiG
I think that valve springs do hurt your low end though since they make it harder to open the valves. Something else to consider, but if you are installing cams and raising the rev limiter, a little bit of low end loss is to be expected.
Common Misconception:
Many people mistakenly think that using higher seat pressures causes a reduction in the horsepower delivered to the flywheel because higher seat pressures (and also higher spring rates required for high performance) require horsepower to compress the springs. This thinking is simply incomplete! For every valve that is opening and its valve spring being compressed, another valve is closing and its valve spring is expanding. This expansion returns the energy to the valve train and the engine. This results in a net power loss of "0" hp. Many engineering texts refer to this as the "regenerative characteristic" of the valve train. Recent tests at Crane have shown no horsepower loss on a hydraulic roller equipped engine when changing the seat pressure from 135# to 165#. Power actually improved significantly at top end, probably due to better control of the relatively heavy valves in the engine.
Many people mistakenly think that using higher seat pressures causes a reduction in the horsepower delivered to the flywheel because higher seat pressures (and also higher spring rates required for high performance) require horsepower to compress the springs. This thinking is simply incomplete! For every valve that is opening and its valve spring being compressed, another valve is closing and its valve spring is expanding. This expansion returns the energy to the valve train and the engine. This results in a net power loss of "0" hp. Many engineering texts refer to this as the "regenerative characteristic" of the valve train. Recent tests at Crane have shown no horsepower loss on a hydraulic roller equipped engine when changing the seat pressure from 135# to 165#. Power actually improved significantly at top end, probably due to better control of the relatively heavy valves in the engine.
Originally Posted by Red Lion
Huh? I said you guys answered the question and I was going to go ahead and get the valvesprings.
For the record, it's not common sense to me as my car came with a KA24DE originally and KA's don't need valvesprings/retainers to go from 6500 to 7200RPM with mild cams.
But I'm glad you guys told me otherwise about it, I'm still not 100% familiar with VQ basics. Thanks!
For the record, it's not common sense to me as my car came with a KA24DE originally and KA's don't need valvesprings/retainers to go from 6500 to 7200RPM with mild cams.
But I'm glad you guys told me otherwise about it, I'm still not 100% familiar with VQ basics. Thanks!
back on topic.. I've heard nothing but good about Brian Crower components. I'd have no problem putting them in my car. (in fact I'm going to get a set of their 272 cams and valve springs for my KA when I get to that point).
Why not use a set of JWT springs since they're less expensive?
http://www.jimwolftechnology.com/cus...asp?PartID=448
http://www.jimwolftechnology.com/cus...asp?PartID=448
Why not use the VQ35HR springs and retainers that I have posted about?
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....t=valve+spring
Also, why not save more money and use the Nismo or JWT knockoff cams you can buy from Ebay stores?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Nismo...spagenameZWDVW
This is exactly the setup that I would use.
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....t=valve+spring
Also, why not save more money and use the Nismo or JWT knockoff cams you can buy from Ebay stores?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Nismo...spagenameZWDVW
This is exactly the setup that I would use.
You guys should definitely consider what Matt's suggesting... look at the data and you'll see why.
PS Matt do you have the weight of the standard VQ35 valve spring handy somewhere?
PS Matt do you have the weight of the standard VQ35 valve spring handy somewhere?
Originally Posted by DandyMax
You guys should definitely consider what Matt's suggesting... look at the data and you'll see why.
PS Matt do you have the weight of the standard VQ35 valve spring handy somewhere?
PS Matt do you have the weight of the standard VQ35 valve spring handy somewhere?
lol I worry about the quality of the knock-off cams. Who makes them anyway?
And THANK YOU very much for reminding me of the HR valvesprings and retainers. I had completely forgotten about them! So the obvious question I'll ask is how much do they cost?
I'm kind of unsure now whether I want to try to get the motor to 7200rpm
s now. If aftermarket cams will work with the stock 6500 without needing valvesprings/retainers I'll do it. It's not so much because I'm cheap and don't want to buy the retainers, but on the other hand I'm getting this urge that says if I'm going to buy cams and valvesprings/retainers, why not buy different rods and pistons, do some headwork, full rebuild...etc. etc.
It's humiliating but I have to keep myself retrained right now and go for a full build or something else later on.
And THANK YOU very much for reminding me of the HR valvesprings and retainers. I had completely forgotten about them! So the obvious question I'll ask is how much do they cost?
I'm kind of unsure now whether I want to try to get the motor to 7200rpm
s now. If aftermarket cams will work with the stock 6500 without needing valvesprings/retainers I'll do it. It's not so much because I'm cheap and don't want to buy the retainers, but on the other hand I'm getting this urge that says if I'm going to buy cams and valvesprings/retainers, why not buy different rods and pistons, do some headwork, full rebuild...etc. etc.
It's humiliating but I have to keep myself retrained right now and go for a full build or something else later on.
I don't like to quote prices but I will say that the springs and retainers are pleasantly cheap from the dealer. To the point of which it isn't worth skipping out on.
The problem is getting the (economical) tooling to change them in the car.
Both brands of knockoffs are made in China/Taiwan IIRC. And combined I would say that 100 or more of them have been sold.
I have seen the Nismo knockoffs and I must say they look really nice.
The problem is getting the (economical) tooling to change them in the car.
Both brands of knockoffs are made in China/Taiwan IIRC. And combined I would say that 100 or more of them have been sold.
I have seen the Nismo knockoffs and I must say they look really nice.
Originally Posted by SR20DEN
The problem is getting the (economical) tooling to change them in the car.
http://www.my350z.com/forum/showpost...3&postcount=24
Seems like an awesome tool. Not sure how easy it'd be to use with the engine still in the car though.
Seems like an awesome tool. Not sure how easy it'd be to use with the engine still in the car though.
Originally Posted by nismology
http://www.my350z.com/forum/showpost...3&postcount=24
Seems like an awesome tool. Not sure how easy it'd be to use with the engine still in the car though.
Seems like an awesome tool. Not sure how easy it'd be to use with the engine still in the car though.
Great find!
nice find!
Luckily for me the engine is out of the car.
alright, cool, no quoting necessary, but would you say they are less than the $308 I've found for BC's springs/retainers? 
Luckily for me the engine is out of the car.
I don't like to quote prices but I will say that the springs and retainers are pleasantly cheap from the dealer. To the point of which it isn't worth skipping out on.
<<<<<$200........ Call Dave Burnette at South Point Nissan. 888-254-6060
Also don't forget to order a new shim set because you really should double shim these springs.
However the BC kit appears to have about 75% more pressure than the OE spring.
And everyone be aware that I have not found a single aftermarket spring that uses the factory retainer, except for a JWT spring which appears to have similar specs as the VQ35HR spring. And of course for more money. I suspect they're now reselling those springs with a JWT badge.
All other aftermarket springs have different install heights.
Also don't forget to order a new shim set because you really should double shim these springs.
However the BC kit appears to have about 75% more pressure than the OE spring.
And everyone be aware that I have not found a single aftermarket spring that uses the factory retainer, except for a JWT spring which appears to have similar specs as the VQ35HR spring. And of course for more money. I suspect they're now reselling those springs with a JWT badge.
All other aftermarket springs have different install heights.
Originally Posted by THT
Why not use a set of JWT springs since they're less expensive?
http://www.jimwolftechnology.com/cus...asp?PartID=448
http://www.jimwolftechnology.com/cus...asp?PartID=448
Ok i somehow missed this post.
Because? My answer is above.
Originally Posted by nismology
http://www.my350z.com/forum/showpost...3&postcount=24
Seems like an awesome tool. Not sure how easy it'd be to use with the engine still in the car though.
Seems like an awesome tool. Not sure how easy it'd be to use with the engine still in the car though.