Last night it happened a couple times. I made some WOT runs practically to red-line and I wasnt paying too much attention to the gauge cluster (eyes on the road)..but the car would stall after taking it out of gear and putting it in neutral/ braking if i remember correctly. It was basically immediately after I was done flooring it. I could re-start the car up immediately, perfectly fine and continue my driving with no problems.
One of the times it stalled out the oil pressure light turned on right as it stalled and then the rest of the lights in my cluster cam on. I'm not sure if that means its an oil pressure problem or thats just the order the lights come on when stalling or what.
I replaced my oil pressure sending unit not too long ago with an autozone one...so i'm not too sure what could be going on. I am praying I dont have an oil pump problem. I did notice my rpms dipping a little lower than usual today, and the only things i've changed is that I replaced my broken up wheel-well splashgaurd liner which was exposing the CAI air filter before.

any insight is appreciated...getting a little tired of the bugs.

 

I hear you man, I'm having a few bugs to work out myself. I wouldn't be concerned in the least that it is an oil pressure issue, that's just the order the lights will come on during a stall as you suspected. That's really all of the insight I have on this problem.

However, I want to share a quick story with you about a problem I had over the weekend........ So I cleaned and oiled my airfilter, and I was driving around later and everytime I went wot and really hammered it the car would just die around 3500 rpms and stall out. I would be slowing down/coasting in gear, hitting the throttle only to hear nothing but the sound of a car not coming back to life, Yet as soon as I would turn the key off, the car would start right back up, and as long as I didn't go over 3500 the car would run the *****. So, even though it wasn't 2500rpm's I still instantly suspected my maf. Well I happened to have my scanner in the car, as I usually do, so I plugged it in and saw a maf code. Then, I reved her out to duplicate the symptom, sure enough it was easy to replicate and I watched the maf reading as it died and it was reading like 1gm/min or whatever even at 3k rpms as I was wot coasting to a stop in a 'dead' car, even at idle it reads about 4.5 so I knew it was wrong. Of course I said to myself "****, I overoiled my filter and blew my maf". So I drive back to the garage and begin pulling the intake to swap mafs out........ and what do I see? A 2" round metal peice of my cheap filter had come 'un-attached' and was bouncing around inside the filter, every time I would wot and hit a high enough rpm's the suction would pull it up against the maf screen and it would stay there until I shut the car off........

Not telling this little story as a possible cause, more so because it gives some background info and yeah I geuss it is a similar problem. However, I would suspect an iac issue first. What is your set-up, and what is your idle rpm @ operating temp? You have a fidanza correct?

 

Check if your IACV is working properly, sounds just like an IACV not being able to recovery quick enough from higher RPM's

 

Well even with no IACV it shouldn't stall out like that unless he's using a LW flywheel like KZZR mentioned.

 

check that your TPS is well calibrated. My car would do that when the TPS was misaligned and again when i got a short on one of the wires for it (I had to extend them and one wire didnt have a good connection). Lower idle/ sloppy idle, and stallin from high RPMs were some of the things that would happen to me.

Dont worry about the order of the dummy lights turning on. Thats normal lol. I'd be pissed when that would happen, Fun on the highway, let off from redline, I look down and all the lights are on and tach needle is at the bottom.... ("F%$K!!!!!!!!!!!" I'd say )

 

thats a crazy story krrz350...its almost a relief when stuff like that happens.
before i say anymore i have NO IACV and the stock flywheel.
I'm starting to think its an air-intake problem again though.
I remember this happening before and I concluded that my PF throttle body was not open enough at closed position. Well, i tried getting help with this, but I could never really get my TPS calibrated properly. I would have it maxed out, turned as far as it would go clockwise and the WOT would be at 4.18. The idle setting is a whole other story because i have to mess with the idle screw on the TB to bring that into spec and when I do it has the TB open so far that it idles at like 1500 rpm..so i had to bring that back down and out of spec. nobody else seemed to have this problem..the TPS was bought new from an org member like a year ago probably.
grr

 

wtf @ the TB jumping like that. you should be able to just make small turning adjustments on the TB idle screw and slowly bring the rpms up, not a drastic change like it sounds you're saying. Thats def not normal.

But either way, if that doesnt work, make something work. If anything try what I had to do in the beginning and just loop a ziptie over it so its sandwiched bet'n the top of the screw and the flap on the spring mechanism. Turn the screw down to compensate for the thickness of the ziptie and that worked for me for a while until i got around to doing it the right way.

 

nah its not jumping up. its just that, when i set the WOT setting as close as i can get it (tps turned fully clockwise) and then i tighten down the TPS, I go to set the idle. Originally it was too low so i opened the throttle body using the idle set-screw to bring it into spec but when it was in spec it had the throttle body valve open TOO much and it would be idling too high. Its as if the tb wasnt meant to work with the 4th gen TPS.