3.5 swap issues
09-30-2007, 04:37 PM
#1
3.5 swap issues
Update:Its alive 6/2008
Hi I have a black 95 5 spd under major construction.
mods:
1.2002 3.5/59k miles.(with factory oil cooler)
2.Stephen max adapters: cam/iacv/Tb.
3.Arp rod bolts
4.Debuloz cams.(jwt s1 replica).
5.SSheaders/y-pipe.
6.4th gen maf
7.Aeromotive fpr (return style)ebay
gauge@38psi.
8.Walboro 255 lph fuel pump with (new oem strainer)
9.Aem uego wideband 9" before cat.
10.Shaved block for 3.0 crankshaft pos sensor at flywheel.
11.3.5 knock sensor.
12.New o2 sensors.
13.3.0 fidanza flywheel.
Diagnostic tools:
1.Snapon solus.
2.vacuum gauge hand held & defi vac/boost 52mm gauge in pillar.
3.Fluke multimeter.
4.Smoke machine(leak detection)
5.8 years experiance.
Codes:
1.solenoid purge cntrl valve
2.Evap purge control valve
3.Iacv
Symptoms
1.Bank s1 lean(fire wall side)
2.bank 1 sensor 2 lean (cat)
3. 5*BTDC @900-1200rpms
4.17in vac reading at 900-1200rpms.
5.high idle.
I tested all sensors & they are within spec
The car is very difficult to start since I shaved the block.
The engine bay is very hot & The headers begin to glow 2 mins after startup.
On avg the wideband reads 14.5-15.5 @900- 1200rpms.
12's when I tap the gas then 16 right after.
@ any held rpm it trys to maintain 15:1 But bank 1 sensor 1 always reads lean.
only The header at the firewall (bank 1)glows hot red now.
I can not adjust the fuel pressure over 43psi whats that about?.
I hope I provided enough info for any one who would like to help me.
I think the timing jumped.or big azz vacuum leak hence high idle issues
I dread pulling the engine back out
What do you guys think? Stay tuned I think i'll be trouble shooting for weeks.
Hi I have a black 95 5 spd under major construction.
mods:
1.2002 3.5/59k miles.(with factory oil cooler)
2.Stephen max adapters: cam/iacv/Tb.
3.Arp rod bolts
4.Debuloz cams.(jwt s1 replica).
5.SSheaders/y-pipe.
6.4th gen maf
7.Aeromotive fpr (return style)ebay
gauge@38psi.8.Walboro 255 lph fuel pump with (new oem strainer)
9.Aem uego wideband 9" before cat.
10.Shaved block for 3.0 crankshaft pos sensor at flywheel.
11.3.5 knock sensor.
12.New o2 sensors.
13.3.0 fidanza flywheel.
Diagnostic tools:
1.Snapon solus.
2.vacuum gauge hand held & defi vac/boost 52mm gauge in pillar.
3.Fluke multimeter.
4.Smoke machine(leak detection)
5.8 years experiance.
Codes:
1.solenoid purge cntrl valve
2.Evap purge control valve
3.Iacv
Symptoms
1.Bank s1 lean(fire wall side)
2.bank 1 sensor 2 lean (cat)
3. 5*BTDC @900-1200rpms
4.17in vac reading at 900-1200rpms.
5.high idle.
I tested all sensors & they are within spec
The car is very difficult to start since I shaved the block.
The engine bay is very hot & The headers begin to glow 2 mins after startup.
On avg the wideband reads 14.5-15.5 @900- 1200rpms.
12's when I tap the gas then 16 right after.
@ any held rpm it trys to maintain 15:1 But bank 1 sensor 1 always reads lean.
only The header at the firewall (bank 1)glows hot red now.
I can not adjust the fuel pressure over 43psi whats that about?.
I hope I provided enough info for any one who would like to help me.
I think the timing jumped.or big azz vacuum leak hence high idle issues
I dread pulling the engine back out
What do you guys think? Stay tuned I think i'll be trouble shooting for weeks.
Last edited by accordingtou; 06-08-2008 at 02:07 PM. Reason: update
10-01-2007, 08:43 PM
#2
Eliminating the bugs
Ok Today I hook up a smoke machine.I found two leaks
1.Tb adapter (fixed)
2.Vias/power valve rod
I was able to bring the idle down to 1200rpms by removing the iacv & bank one/header is no longer (lean) glowing. My wideband reads between 14.2-15.7:1 now But after I rev it to 3k it stays lean for a long time16-18:1?
1.Tb adapter (fixed)
2.Vias/power valve rod
I was able to bring the idle down to 1200rpms by removing the iacv & bank one/header is no longer (lean) glowing. My wideband reads between 14.2-15.7:1 now But after I rev it to 3k it stays lean for a long time16-18:1?
10-01-2007, 08:57 PM
#3
do you have a o2 sensor bung for each cylinder bank before they merge together? I'd assume you do since most ypipes do. I'd put your wideband in each one and compare the readings.
the things that come to mind immediately for a glowing header are super leanness or timing that is really retarded and the burn is still occurring in the header. the latter doesn't make sense because it's only doing it in one bank apparently. I don't know what timing advance is supposed to be at idle but my vague memory indicates that 5* BTDC sounds OK... right?
another thought I had is that you indeed jumped a tooth, and thus your exhaust valves are opening earlier than you want, meaning that the burn is happening in the header. this doesn't make sense though because you said that earlier both headers were glowing, and all of a sudden only one header is glowing.
the things that come to mind immediately for a glowing header are super leanness or timing that is really retarded and the burn is still occurring in the header. the latter doesn't make sense because it's only doing it in one bank apparently. I don't know what timing advance is supposed to be at idle but my vague memory indicates that 5* BTDC sounds OK... right?
another thought I had is that you indeed jumped a tooth, and thus your exhaust valves are opening earlier than you want, meaning that the burn is happening in the header. this doesn't make sense though because you said that earlier both headers were glowing, and all of a sudden only one header is glowing.
10-01-2007, 09:38 PM
#4
do you have a o2 sensor bung for each cylinder bank before they merge together? I'd assume you do since most ypipes do. I'd put your wideband in each one and compare the readings.
the things that come to mind immediately for a glowing header are super leanness or timing that is really retarded and the burn is still occurring in the header. the latter doesn't make sense because it's only doing it in one bank apparently. I don't know what timing advance is supposed to be at idle but my vague memory indicates that 5* BTDC sounds OK... right?
another thought I had is that you indeed jumped a tooth, and thus your exhaust valves are opening earlier than you want, meaning that the burn is happening in the header. this doesn't make sense though because you said that earlier both headers were glowing, and all of a sudden only one header is glowing.
the things that come to mind immediately for a glowing header are super leanness or timing that is really retarded and the burn is still occurring in the header. the latter doesn't make sense because it's only doing it in one bank apparently. I don't know what timing advance is supposed to be at idle but my vague memory indicates that 5* BTDC sounds OK... right?
another thought I had is that you indeed jumped a tooth, and thus your exhaust valves are opening earlier than you want, meaning that the burn is happening in the header. this doesn't make sense though because you said that earlier both headers were glowing, and all of a sudden only one header is glowing.
My scan tool lets me know bank1 is leaning out.
Alldata/Shopkey/Fsm all call for 15*btdc+/-5*(4thgen)15*btdc+/-2*(5.5gen).
My timing is now 29-33*@1200rpms.
Yes there is still a possibility I jumped a tooth.But my vacumm gauges beg to differ.
Since i fixed the TB leak it now holds 19-20, never fluctuates & does not dip(which are signs of a sticking valve & bad timing).
My research concludes 17-22 to be a healthy engine.
I have to find a way to seal the power valve rod on the manifold.
I wouldnt of found that leak without the smoke machine.
A few techs and I belive the headers were glowing due to unmetered air.
I also belive the cps(pos) gap between the flywheel is wrong.
None the less the fuel psi is constant34-35@Idle40-44@wot and the throttle response is quick.
Tomorrow I will smoke it again & go from there.It gets better every day.Thankyou.Darryl
10-01-2007, 10:29 PM
#5
Hmmmm, as far as your timing questions go...
my engine runs at 5* timing when its at idle.
I tap the gas and as it goes up the rpm its in the 30-45s range, then gets to 900rpm-ish at 15*, then timing changes to 5* and it drops to 720-800. Dunno if this is normal either, but thats how its been.
my engine runs at 5* timing when its at idle.
I tap the gas and as it goes up the rpm its in the 30-45s range, then gets to 900rpm-ish at 15*, then timing changes to 5* and it drops to 720-800. Dunno if this is normal either, but thats how its been.
10-12-2007, 06:08 PM
#6
Update
95BLKMAX Thanks. After I got her idle down our timing seemed to be identical. Still dont know if its right though.lol.
2 whoom it may concern
I had a few problems with my swap:Vacuum leak's @ the intake manifold power valve rod & Tb adapter.
Also a bad crankshaft pos(at flywheel)etc....My WB would maintain 14.7:1 ishthen all of a sudden run sooo lean the wb would peg and go blank
18:1 afr.
I made sure to use "quality" parts.I also soldered,heat shrinked,ohmed & continuity tested EVERYTHING.
It felt great the very few times it ran right.lol. I have vids but the computer is acting up.
During teardown I noticed the timing was dead on but the exhaust valves on bank 1 were white as ghosts.
Ohwell it will make for a perfect built engine now.Good thing Vq's come cheap these days.
I am waiting on a few parts for the new engine.I will let you guys know how it turns out.
Thankyou
Darryl
2 whoom it may concern
I had a few problems with my swap:Vacuum leak's @ the intake manifold power valve rod & Tb adapter.
Also a bad crankshaft pos(at flywheel)etc....My WB would maintain 14.7:1 ishthen all of a sudden run sooo lean the wb would peg and go blank
18:1 afr.I made sure to use "quality" parts.I also soldered,heat shrinked,ohmed & continuity tested EVERYTHING.
It felt great the very few times it ran right.lol. I have vids but the computer is acting up.
During teardown I noticed the timing was dead on but the exhaust valves on bank 1 were white as ghosts.
Ohwell it will make for a perfect built engine now
.Good thing Vq's come cheap these days.I am waiting on a few parts for the new engine.I will let you guys know how it turns out.
Thankyou
Darryl
06-06-2008, 02:42 PM
#7
Update Shes alive
Well I finally put the "newer" engine in
My mods list changed a bit since my first post.lol
This bad boy bounces off the stock limiter like a honda.lol
As you will see from the video the car is far from completion.
Im just stoked to be able to lot drive her.
For more details & updates on this sleeper Go to
http://teamalloutnissan.com/modules....viewtopic&t=71
1995 nissan maxima 5spd
My 3.5 starting
http://youtube.com/watch?v=8gA25Crknpc
1995 3.0 timing equipment
1995 3.0 upper oil pan
1995 coolant log
1995 sensors (all)
2002 lower oil pan
2002 nissan maxima engine
2002 thermostat (temp untill I can afford the nismo)
2002 Samco coolant hose kit
Reconditioned heads with:
viton valve seals
Debuloz cams (JWT S1 KNOCKOFFS)
JWT valve springs
Cometic headgaskets
Arp rod bolts
Arp head studs (standard)
Portted & gasket matched lower intake manifold to heads.
SSIM ( removed shelf from upper intake manifold)
Eliiminated power valve
Stock injectors serviced @ deastchwerks avg flow of 303
Fidanza flywheel
Clutchnet 6puck sprung disk & 3x pressure plate.
2001 AE vlsd transmission (under 1kmiles) I got lucky.lol
SS autochrome knockoff headers & y-pipe (headers to be used with turbo later)
No egr
Stock maf With shorty air intake
Iac adapter with broken iac( will be replace asap)
Energy suspension front end( tq mounts/sway bar/control arm/ subframe & end links)
Poly filled motor & transmission mount.
Tripple gauge pod 52mm
Defi oil psi gauge
defi vacuum/ boost gauge
AEM all in one wideband kit
Weight reduction.
The mods list for items yet to be installed is sooo long I would be typing for days.
Thankyou for your help.
My mods list changed a bit since my first post.lol
This bad boy bounces off the stock limiter like a honda.lol
As you will see from the video the car is far from completion.
Im just stoked to be able to lot drive her.
For more details & updates on this sleeper Go to
http://teamalloutnissan.com/modules....viewtopic&t=71
1995 nissan maxima 5spd
My 3.5 starting
http://youtube.com/watch?v=8gA25Crknpc
1995 3.0 timing equipment
1995 3.0 upper oil pan
1995 coolant log
1995 sensors (all)
2002 lower oil pan
2002 nissan maxima engine
2002 thermostat (temp untill I can afford the nismo)
2002 Samco coolant hose kit
Reconditioned heads with:
viton valve seals
Debuloz cams (JWT S1 KNOCKOFFS)
JWT valve springs
Cometic headgaskets
Arp rod bolts
Arp head studs (standard)
Portted & gasket matched lower intake manifold to heads.
SSIM ( removed shelf from upper intake manifold)
Eliiminated power valve
Stock injectors serviced @ deastchwerks avg flow of 303
Fidanza flywheel
Clutchnet 6puck sprung disk & 3x pressure plate.
2001 AE vlsd transmission (under 1kmiles) I got lucky.lol
SS autochrome knockoff headers & y-pipe (headers to be used with turbo later)
No egr
Stock maf With shorty air intake
Iac adapter with broken iac( will be replace asap)
Energy suspension front end( tq mounts/sway bar/control arm/ subframe & end links)
Poly filled motor & transmission mount.
Tripple gauge pod 52mm
Defi oil psi gauge
defi vacuum/ boost gauge
AEM all in one wideband kit
Weight reduction.
The mods list for items yet to be installed is sooo long I would be typing for days.
Thankyou for your help.
06-07-2008, 10:00 AM
#9
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (29)
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Middleboro/Carver, Ma
Posts: 4,572
Retarded timing yes, but running lean actually raises head temps and lowers exhaust temps, vice versa for running rich, egt's skyrocket when too rich. Sorry, not starting anything, you > me, but I just wanted to point that out.
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