considering on putting a set of cams and springs in my new crate motor before it goes in a some point but JWT doesnt really say much, so i am wondering if anyone has had any knowledge of them on a N/A setup.

These would be paired up with either JWT or BC springs, gutted IM, 82mm MAF, cattman headers + exhaust, and intake spacers. will prob be tuning with safcII

Matt

Edit:12/15 i am now making this a build thread so all updates will go through this thread

 

http://www.jimwolftechnology.com/wol...INCL_REVUP.pdf

 

I have looked at that already... I am looking to see if there is actually any personal experience with them....

 

Hmmm. The powerband will look like the JWT S1, since the valve timing will be almost identical. The curve will just be amplified, more or less, due to the greater lift. That's my "guess" anyway...

When you say crate motor, what exactly are we dealing with here?

 

does that say 7.5 degrees of overlap?!?! hope this isnt gonna get any boost....ever

 

I count 26* of overlap. Overlap = intake opening BTDC + exhaust closing ATDC which is 7.5* + 18.5* in this case. Even if it was 7.5*, that wouldn't be much. The VQ30DE/K has 6*. In any case, JWT S1's has been used in boosted applications and they have performed pretty well for n/a cams. I mention them only because they have 25* of overlap.

 

crate motor meaning... 0 mile engine from nissan... no plans for boost.

 

wow, thats a lot of overlap. at least it sounds like it from what i remember.

 

i guess ill buy them when the motor gets here... interested in what kind of numbers ill see...

 

possible to get 285+whp with those parts + tune?

oh and anyone think it is worth with to do the rod bolts while i have the motor on the stand? rev limit right now is 7200, not sure if i will be increasing it or not

 

For the record, you don't need to have the motor on a stand, they can be done with the motor in the car. And yes, of course, anytime is good time for rev insurance.

How did you get your rev limit like that? I asked TS to give me 7200, I know it's only a measly 100 RPM, but still ...they still gave me 7100. Verified by OBDII and Dyno data, even though my tach looks like this:


Anything is possible, and as a raw example 96sleeper was in the 270's, so with the right tuning and such, you might get lucky.

 

soo, whats my revlimiter? i dont even know now.

 

well i am getting a 04 0 mile crate engine in this week (got a super super deal on it ((only paid $455 and all its missing is the intakes and fuel rail))) so that it why t will be on the stand. I guess ill do the rod bolts just for the added insurance...

My bad, it is 7100, not sure why 7200 stuck out in my head..how did sr20 get his up to 7500? and the stock tach is pretty much useless

im not sure which cams he is using but i know that the ones i bought have the highest lift i could find so hopefully i will see some very nice numbers up top

stock rev limit is 6600 i think?

 

Duration has more to do with where a motor makes its power than lift does.


Although I will say that these C2 will make good top end power relative your fuel cut.

 

should 350z injectors be used? from what i read earlier fwd vq35 are 315cc and rwd vq35 is 335cc.. 335 should be good for roughly 330chp right, at 80% duty cycle?

 

Hehehe...I thought I saw you over on my350z in the Marketplace.


The 350Z/VQ30DE-K injectors are 335cc @ 3.5 but 290cc @ 3.0 bar, which is the generally accepted pressure when rating injectors. I'd go for the them if you can get a good deal. They'll give you a bit more headroom.

 

yeah.. haha that was me.. just looking around and i figured if i was actually going to make 285ish+whp i would be cutting it close.

What fuel pressure do the stock regulators run at?

 

Those FBJC100s, among other things, are dirt cheap over there most of the time...

 

~51 PSI.

 

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=406362

 

I am getting a set of injectors off a local 350z guy.... $60

wideband is next on the list

 

wow a crate motor for $450 - that's insane. that engine is like $6500 from nissan lol

 

yeah i am still pretty pumped about it... Looks like i will have it on wednesday, ill be sure to throw some pics up

 

rod bolts and plx m-300 ordered... should be a good week... planning on tearing into the motor friday or saturday

 

Just wanted to say good luck with everything, and if all works out I just might build a VQ35...I have my old one that blew up sitting in my garage right now, might rebuild it and then build the heck out of it...

 

JWT valve springs and shims are here...:

 

Can you stick a micrometer/caliper on a shim? What's their shim thickness? I think it's same as stock (1mm) but I'm curious.

 

ill get the calipers out tonight or tomorrow and measure them...

 

Before buying the JWT kit did you consider using double shimmed HR springs/retainers?

 

somebody mentioned it... i kinda figured id go with the springs that these cams are made to go with... but what are the specs for the HR springs?

 

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=392554

 

good info there... SR20, if you are reading this would you be interested in measuring a set of JWT's and adding them in there? i would be willing to send mine for the testing as long as turn around wouldnt be too long

 

anyone know the best valve spring compressor to do springs with the heads still on the motor?

 

You wouldn't happen to have any baseline dynos, would you?

 

I have a SnapOn GA318A. It's not perfect but with some practice it's useable. It's better than anything else I've seen for doing springs with the heads on. Don't forget to pressurize the cylinder/stuff string down or something so your valves don't fall in.

 

ill be doing a somewhat baseline with the motor thats in the car now... just has boltons and untuned

 

Thanks for the info... anymore on how to pressurize the cylinder or the string thing?

 

few progress pics...

This is what it looked like when i got (valve cover was taken off by me)


how it looks right now, some lifters still in bores...it was cold and late...


new stock 3.5 cams anyone?


C-2 cams landed...


Stock intake cam vs. C-2

 

Rotate the crank so the cylinder you're working on is at TDC. Then...

Air: use a compressor with the appropriate fitting for the spark plug hole. Pressurized the cylinder so valves don't fall in, (don't need high psi though, just a few, or you might end up pushing the piston down/rotating the crank)

String/rope: unspool string/rope through the spark plug hole, filling up the space between the top of the piston, then valves won't drop in as the string/rope occupies the space.

And of course doing all this you should have marked the crank before disassembly of the timing chains/cams so that once you go to reinstall the cams/sprockets/chains you know where to rotate the crank to TDC on the #1 cylinder. (Or if you forgot you could find it approximately using a compression gauge).

BTW did you check the JWT shim thickness?

Oh and contact doublea, he might be wanting stock 3.5 cams...

 

Or just line up the crank key with the mark on the oil pump.