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My n/a project

Old 12-05-2007, 05:15 AM
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My n/a project

I just finished the port & polish on the upper & lower intake manifold on my VQ30DE-K ( 2001 ). I was surprise at the amount of shaving I was able to perform on both UIM & LIM, I was also able to port match them perfectly.

There is still some room for improvement on the heads, yesterday I've install LIM on the heads to see what kind of shaving I can do on the head to match the LIM and there is a good amount of material that can be removed. I think it's going to make the head less restrictive with a much better flowing. I wouldn't pay 1200$ for someone to do it but if you can do it yourself I'm pretty shure if well done the gains will be there.

I dont know for shure how much HP it's going to give me, but with all the work on the engine it's an all around thing just not the work on the heads. As an improvement I'll be swapping the VQ35 cam in with Stephen's max cam adaptor along with new HR spring and double shim this should make this engine able to rev-up to 7500 rpm.

I'll post some pics later tonight so you can draw your own conclusion.


Cheers

AA
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Old 12-05-2007, 06:36 AM
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Originally Posted by doublea View Post
As an improvement I'll be swapping the VQ35 cam in with Stephen's max cam adaptor along with new HR spring and double shim this should make this engine able to rev-up to 7500 rpm.
If you';re going to do cams, I would invest in something other than stock VQ35) Although you didn't state stock, you just stated VQ35, I'm assuming you meant stock since you didn't specify otherwise.
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Old 12-05-2007, 07:55 AM
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With the price I'm getting the VQ35 cam ( 175$ ), I dont call this an investment I call it pocket change. Lol

Let assume that a set of good cam will be in the range of 1200-1500$, and it might be good for 10-15 HP at most. Instead of spending all that money for so little gain, I'm going to use the VQ35 stocker cam wich have longer/better duration than the VQ30DE-K, along with this I need Stephen's max cam adaptor ( 125$ ) so for 300$ + HR spring and double shim ( 250-300$ ) wil make this engine rev to 7500 rpm and will give equal gain but probably better for much less money. Then I can spend the rest of the cash on Cattman headers and 550cc injectors.

Also with this set-up I wont have the crappy idle that is often associated with more agressive cam.

I will have to wait until the engine is ready to fire up until I can proove my point.

Cheers

AA
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Old 12-05-2007, 08:45 AM
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Originally Posted by doublea View Post
With the price I'm getting the VQ35 cam ( 175$ ), I dont call this an investment I call it pocket change. Lol

Let assume that a set of good cam will be in the range of 1200-1500$, and it might be good for 10-15 HP at most.
That wasn't the point. If you were going so far as to changing cams, why not get some aftermarket cams that will guarantee power past 6500? Right now, that seems to be the 'limit' (i.e. power drops off after 6500 w/stock VQ35 cams)

Research the cam links located in the stickies, they (aftermakret, i.e. JWT knock offs) can be had for $400-600$.

Originally Posted by doublea View Post
Then I can spend the rest of the cash on Cattman headers and 550cc injectors.
Why in Gods good name would you want 550cc injectors for an NA build?

Last edited by nismology; 12-07-2007 at 09:40 AM.
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Old 12-05-2007, 08:58 AM
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Originally Posted by doublea View Post
With the price I'm getting the VQ35 cam ( 175$ ), I dont call this an investment I call it pocket change. Lol

Let assume that a set of good cam will be in the range of 1200-1500$, and it might be good for 10-15 HP at most. Instead of spending all that money for so little gain, I'm going to use the VQ35 stocker cam wich have longer/better duration than the VQ30DE-K, along with this I need Stephen's max cam adaptor ( 125$ ) so for 300$ + HR spring and double shim ( 250-300$ ) wil make this engine rev to 7500 rpm and will give equal gain but probably better for much less money. Then I can spend the rest of the cash on Cattman headers and 550cc injectors.

Also with this set-up I wont have the crappy idle that is often associated with more agressive cam.

I will have to wait until the engine is ready to fire up until I can proove my point.

Cheers

AA
$175 for stock 3.5 cams Thats a bit expensive.
I've seen them go for $100. I sold a set for $ cheap a few months back.
I may have another set Begining of January.
Jwt s1 knock offs(deboluz) for $600.
Brian crower stage 2's for $900
Brian crower spring set $300ish

To offset the "expensive cams":
Buy a used exhaust also buy used injector's & have them cleaned & tested
The "crappy idle" is considered music to most "tuners" ears. They/I loved my idle the short time my car ran
You can always adj base idle to 850-900. It wont hurt unless your a tree huggggggger or something
Goodluck with your project.
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Old 12-05-2007, 10:33 AM
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Originally Posted by accordingtou View Post
$175 for stock 3.5 cams Thats a bit expensive.
I've seen them go for $100. I sold a set for $ cheap a few months back.
I may have another set Begining of January.
Jwt s1 knock offs(deboluz) for $600.
Brian crower stage 2's for $900
Brian crower spring set $300ish

To offset the "expensive cams":
Buy a used exhaust also buy used injector's & have them cleaned & tested
The "crappy idle" is considered music to most "tuners" ears. They/I loved my idle the short time my car ran
You can always adj base idle to 850-900. It wont hurt unless your a tree huggggggger or something
Goodluck with your project.
I dont buy much stuff used but when there is a good deal available out there I dont mind. Maybe for a student 175$ for VQ35 cam is too much money but the 75$ difference doesn't make much of a difference for me.

If you have a good set to sell for 100$ then be it but otherwise it doesn't bother me.
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Old 12-05-2007, 12:27 PM
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Originally Posted by DasYears View Post
then why not put 75 together a couple times and get good aftermarket cams?
A set of after market cam is going to be good for what 10-15 hp max, let me guess that I might see similar gain with the VQ35 stocker in place of the VQ30DE-K so I dont see a point of spending that money which is not going to make a major difference.

Not that I am cheap but if I have to replace every single part with after market to gain whatever I'm probably better off giving the max to my daughter and buy a 2003 M5 see what I mean.

AA
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Old 12-05-2007, 02:32 PM
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been waiting for a thread like this...I was actually thinking of doing stock vq35 cams with some mild headwork. This would only be the case if I get the cams for free, which I think I can. And I'm not trying to run 12's with this thing, jsut wanting a pretty strong NA build. Would you not agree that $FREE vq35 stockers is better than 600+ aftermarkets? And say I picked up some heads from a junkyard, will a shop really charge 1000+ for porting them?!?!
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Old 12-05-2007, 06:35 PM
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You can get knockoff cams on ebay for $450 - spending $175 on stock cams is ridiculous when aftermarket ones are that cheap. 10-15hp is the gain over stock VQ35 cams with a stock redline, you extend the redline like anyone in their right mind with a cammed motor would, and the gains become MUCH more significant and make for a much faster car. Peak power isn't what makes a car faster, area under the curve is, and when you extend that redline out and hold that power instead of dropping off like stock cams will, you have a faster automobile.

Last edited by nismology; 12-07-2007 at 09:49 AM.
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Old 12-06-2007, 05:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Nealoc187 View Post
You can get knockoff cams on ebay for $450 - spending $175 on stock cams is ridiculous when aftermarket ones are that cheap. 10-15hp is the gain over stock VQ35 cams with a stock redline, you extend the redline like anyone in their right mind with a cammed motor would, and the gains become MUCH more significant and make for a much faster car. Peak power isn't what makes a car faster, area under the curve is, and when you extend that redline out and hold that power instead of dropping off like stock cams will, you have a faster automobile.

Anyhow, VQ35 heads are remarkable from the factory, there aren't many casting flaws to be cleaned up, etc.

I've made a few search on e-gay this morning and didn't find any cam for the VQ30DE-K... I found few for the VQ35, some 350Z stocker for cheap ( would that be a good compromise ?)
I found 2006 cam for 100$ here:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/06-Ni...QQcmdZViewItem

I cant seem to find knock off like many suggested !
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Old 12-06-2007, 09:15 AM
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Old 12-06-2007, 09:34 AM
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I've seem those knock off but will they be a direct drop in the VQ30DE-K ? Do they need to be regrind ? Do I still need Stephen's max cam adaptor ?

Here is a cc of the description:

These NISMO 350Z G35 Camshafts maintain low end torque while increasing mid and top end power. NISMO 350Z G35 cams have been computer designed for the 350Z with 350Z specific lift and duration. These NISMO 350Z Camshafts are precision ground from billet cores.
No other adjustments are required of the 350Z ECU or the engine to make these NISMO cams work. However, we suggest installing a 350Z cold air intake with an ECU reflash to take advantage of the power at higher RPM's. For the ultimate setup, check out the headers and exhausts we carry as well!

Use the 350Z's factory service manual to install these. ***These parts are not warranted by Nissan as they are considered 350Z and VQ35 race parts.*** These NISMO 350Z cams have 262 degree duration and .426" lift. Cold lash is set at .010" to .013". *these are for the non rev production model VQ35 motors and will not work on cars with variable valve timing on both intake/exhaust camshafts.***

Since PRO-1's were completely replicated from Nismo Camshafts (just like Jim Wolfe's) we used their write up sheet about the cams. With over 38 sets sold without a problem, we stand behind these 100%

Unless someone can positively confirm the following I wouldn't take 450$ guess buy :

1-) Do these knock off are direct drop in the VQ30DE-K ?
2-) Do I still need Stephen'sMax cam adaptor ?
3-) It is suggest to reflash the ECU is this apply to the max and who can do that

That is the question I have for now.

Thanks

AA
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Old 12-06-2007, 09:38 AM
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Originally Posted by doublea View Post
I've made a few search on e-gay this morning and didn't find any cam for the VQ30DE-K... I found few for the VQ35, some 350Z stocker for cheap ( would that be a good compromise ?)
I found 2006 cam for 100$ here:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/06-Ni...QQcmdZViewItem

I cant seem to find knock off like many suggested !
i typed in "350z cams" and these are two of the 7 items that show up....

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Nismo...spagenameZWD1V

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CAMS-...spagenameZWD1V


type in "vq35 cams" and only one thing shows up... the $445 cams. not sure what search terms you were using that didn't show those for you.

were I building an all motor VQ, there is no question I'd spring for one of those over stock cam for free even and over $1200 or whatever for the name brand ones. i think they are a great value and they really start to shine when you rev the motor out past the stock rev limit which the stock cams will not do.
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Old 12-06-2007, 09:42 AM
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Originally Posted by doublea View Post

Unless someone can positively confirm the following I wouldn't take 450$ guess buy :

1-) Do these knock off are direct drop in the VQ30DE-K ?
2-) Do I still need Stephen'sMax cam adaptor ?
3-) It is suggest to reflash the ECU is this apply to the max and who can do that

That is the question I have for now.

Thanks

AA

Yet you were willing to make a $175 buy that will yield very little gain?


Anyhow, the knockoff cams go in the exact same way that the stock cams you were going to pay $175 for go in - no difference. As far as a reflash goes - EU > reflash. Any maxima build is going to have an EU or something equivalent these days... at least I'd hope so.
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Old 12-06-2007, 11:27 AM
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Originally Posted by doublea View Post
I've seem those knock off but will they be a direct drop in the VQ30DE-K ? Do they need to be regrind ? Do I still need Stephen's max cam adaptor ?

Here is a cc of the description:

These NISMO 350Z G35 Camshafts maintain low end torque while increasing mid and top end power. NISMO 350Z G35 cams have been computer designed for the 350Z with 350Z specific lift and duration. These NISMO 350Z Camshafts are precision ground from billet cores.
No other adjustments are required of the 350Z ECU or the engine to make these NISMO cams work. However, we suggest installing a 350Z cold air intake with an ECU reflash to take advantage of the power at higher RPM's. For the ultimate setup, check out the headers and exhausts we carry as well!

Use the 350Z's factory service manual to install these. ***These parts are not warranted by Nissan as they are considered 350Z and VQ35 race parts.*** These NISMO 350Z cams have 262 degree duration and .426" lift. Cold lash is set at .010" to .013". *these are for the non rev production model VQ35 motors and will not work on cars with variable valve timing on both intake/exhaust camshafts.***

Since PRO-1's were completely replicated from Nismo Camshafts (just like Jim Wolfe's) we used their write up sheet about the cams. With over 38 sets sold without a problem, we stand behind these 100%

Unless someone can positively confirm the following I wouldn't take 450$ guess buy :

1-) Do these knock off are direct drop in the VQ30DE-K ?
2-) Do I still need Stephen'sMax cam adaptor ?
3-) It is suggest to reflash the ECU is this apply to the max and who can do that

That is the question I have for now.

Thanks

AA
Those are the cams I used - $450 + shipping ( from eBay's Make Offer) .... very high quality construction, and engine runs good.....

.

Last edited by grey99max; 12-06-2007 at 12:52 PM.
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Old 12-06-2007, 11:54 AM
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What? You're selling the cams Grey?


Doublea, what did you end up with for timing on the adapters? BTW didn't mean to scare you off the head porting, just mentioned the caution for the sake of any who might read and think it's a simple/guaranteed thing...
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Old 12-06-2007, 12:28 PM
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Originally Posted by DandyMax View Post
What? You're selling the cams Grey?
He's saying the cams he got were $450 or make offer + shipping...
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Old 12-06-2007, 12:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Nealoc187 View Post
Yet you were willing to make a $175 buy that will yield very little gain?


Anyhow, the knockoff cams go in the exact same way that the stock cams you were going to pay $175 for go in - no difference. As far as a reflash goes - EU > reflash. Any maxima build is going to have an EU or something equivalent these days... at least I'd hope so.
To make a long story short, I was told or suggest to get the VQ35 cam for cheap and use Stephen'sMax cam adaptor and this will give me better gain than using the VQ30DE-K stocker cam. At first I didn't had any intention to upgrade the cams, I'm not a racer so I'm doing this as a personal hobby ( life time dream so to speak ) and surprise someone on the highway once in a while. I'm lurking toward the EU to be honest.

Now I just need to know if those cams are direct fit in my VQ30DE-K or do they need to be modified, and at last do I still need to buy Stephen'sMax cam adaptor ? Without knowing the answer to those 2 questions I cant say I'll give it a try.
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Old 12-06-2007, 12:45 PM
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Originally Posted by grey99max View Post
Those are the cams I used - $450 + shipping ( Make Offer) .... very high quality construction, and engine runs good.....

.
Did you install those in the VQ30DE ? ( I see in your sig that you have a 99 max )
If they work without modification exception made of the cam adaptor, I might be some how interested in giving it a try. Just by curiousity why do you want to sell it ?

Thanks

AA

Last edited by doublea; 12-06-2007 at 12:59 PM.
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Old 12-06-2007, 12:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Nealoc187 View Post
He's saying the cams he got were $450 or make offer + shipping...
Thank you.... I edited my original post - just thought peeps should know what a set really sold for.
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Old 12-06-2007, 12:57 PM
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Originally Posted by DandyMax View Post
What? You're selling the cams Grey?


Doublea, what did you end up with for timing on the adapters? BTW didn't mean to scare you off the head porting, just mentioned the caution for the sake of any who might read and think it's a simple/guaranteed thing...
Hey man, I retained your suggestion of 121/112 and Stephen'sMax confirmed he can do the adaptor with those spec. You didn't scare me, I can do pretty hard core stuff so but you are right it is not a job for any body. I should have better explained that I for most only wanted to PP the heads ports in order to match the LIM>UIM.

As for the heads porting it require some very specific tools to do this kind of jobs and also the flow analysis. I'm not a rocket scientist but rather a craftman/diy/mechanics, I'm not affraid of trying different thing and get dirts on my hand.

Do you think I should buy the knock off for 450$ along with Stephen's cam adaptor ? If so should I go for the same timing specs 121/112 ?

Thank you all for getting in this thread, because of you I'll go to bed with a little more knowledge tonight.

AA
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Old 12-06-2007, 01:00 PM
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Originally Posted by doublea View Post
Did you install those in the VQ30DE ? ( I see in your sig that you have a 99 max )
If they work without modification exception mad of the cam adaptor I might be some how interested in giving it a try. Just by curiousity why do you want to sell it ?

Thanks

AA
I'm not selling the cams - see above.

Nope - they went in my VQ35 - but since you can put VQ35 cams in a VQ30, I'm positive that the 3.5 eBay cams will fit as well... I used Stephen's adapters and longer 6mm pins from the 3.0 cams, and all is well. My only question about putting the 3.5 cams into the 3.0 is valve lash - others have done it - ask around. The eBay cams were a no-brainer install for valve lash - all valves were good.

Hummmm... My cams in a 3.0 would make a high-revvin' motor - they make my 3.5 into one.

And I have an extra set of stock 3.5 cams left over...


.

Last edited by grey99max; 12-06-2007 at 01:07 PM.
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Old 12-06-2007, 01:06 PM
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Originally Posted by grey99max View Post
I'm not selling the cams - see above.

Nope - they went in my VQ35 - but since you can put VQ35 cams in a VQ30, I'm positive that the 3.5 eBay cams will fit as well... I used Stephen's adapters and longer 6mm pins from the 3.0 cams, and all is well. My only question about putting the 3.5 cams into the 3.0 is valve lash - others have done it - ask around. The eBay cams were a no-brainer install for valve lash - all valves were good.


And I have an extra set of stock 3.5 cams left over...


.

Ok I see what you mean. I'll be swapping the valve spring and use double shim as it was suggested by Dandymax. BTW what do you mean by valve lash ? are you referring to valve floating and not closing properly ? ( sorry I've try to translate lash but my french brain couldn't perfectly understand this) Lol

AA
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Old 12-06-2007, 01:17 PM
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Originally Posted by doublea View Post
Ok I see what you mean. I'll be swapping the valve spring and use double shim as it was suggested by Dandymax. BTW what do you mean by valve lash ? are you referring to valve floating and not closing properly ? ( sorry I've try to translate lash but my french brain couldn't perfectly understand this) Lol

AA
I mean the minimum gap you need to maintain between the cam lobe and the "bucket" that sits over the retainer/spring. I think the gap is speced as between .010 and .013 inches. Stuff you need a special tool to measure on the 3.0, and a feeler gauge on a 3.5. It's all in the FSM. It happens when the cam lobe is 180* away from the valve stem. Obviously there won't be any gap when the cam lobe is opening the valve.

The eBay cams gave identical valve spacing to the OEM cams. This is fine for 3.5 cam swaps, but maybe the 3.0 has different tolerances - I don't know. Others have installed the 3.5L OEM cams in 3.0 engines, so it's possible.

.

Last edited by grey99max; 12-06-2007 at 01:21 PM.
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Old 12-06-2007, 01:28 PM
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Ok I see what you mean. I'll try to find info on this later tonight.

Thanks

AA
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Old 12-06-2007, 05:24 PM
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Originally Posted by grey99max View Post
I mean the minimum gap you need to maintain between the cam lobe and the "bucket" that sits over the retainer/spring. I think the gap is speced as between .010 and .013 inches. Stuff you need a special tool to measure on the 3.0, and a feeler gauge on a 3.5. It's all in the FSM. It happens when the cam lobe is 180* away from the valve stem. Obviously there won't be any gap when the cam lobe is opening the valve.

The eBay cams gave identical valve spacing to the OEM cams. This is fine for 3.5 cam swaps, but maybe the 3.0 has different tolerances - I don't know. Others have installed the 3.5L OEM cams in 3.0 engines, so it's possible.

.
Feeler gauges work just fine on the 3.0 also. I found that the S1 knockoffs in the 3.0 were generally about 1-2 thou tighter than spec on the exhaust side and 2-3 on the intake. It might be similar with the stock 3.5 cams...
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Old 12-06-2007, 08:33 PM
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Originally Posted by DandyMax View Post
Feeler gauges work just fine on the 3.0 also. I found that the S1 knockoffs in the 3.0 were generally about 1-2 thou tighter than spec on the exhaust side and 2-3 on the intake. It might be similar with the stock 3.5 cams...
Does 1-2 thou is acceptable to be a direct drop in or is it too tight ?

I voluntarily posted my thread in the all engine because I believe you guys have great knowledge in building N/A engine. But in my situation if i do the math, I'm better off buying the 350Z stocker ( found a set on e-bay for 100$ ) along with the cam adaptor, all this for 225$, they wont probably bring as much gain as the Nismo knocker but because my engine will get a V2 T trim, I couldn't care less. Just need to run a smaller pulley, that will give more pony's for less $$$. This car once finished is going to be my sunday summer car so to speak.

Have a good night.

AA
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Old 12-07-2007, 06:44 AM
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Originally Posted by doublea View Post
I'm better off buying the 350Z stocker
If the Z33 stocker cams are not from a rev up motor, then they are the same as all other VQ35 cams (Maxima/Altima/Murano, etc).

Butm in your case, a smaller pulley should cure all.
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Old 12-07-2007, 09:52 AM
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Old 12-08-2007, 06:29 AM
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I bought set of VQ35 cam that came from a 2006 maxima, I got those for 100$. I've finally decided to stick with my initial plan and to go with VQ35 cam + Stephen'sMax cam adaptor. I'll be tearing the engine a part this afternoon and will start the head porting later today or tomorrow. Hopefully if I can get my fockin camera back I'll shoot some pics during the week-end.
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Old 12-08-2007, 11:46 AM
  #32  
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yea take some pics. so the cam adapters your using are degreed for 121/112?
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Old 12-09-2007, 06:16 AM
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Originally Posted by speed racer View Post
yea take some pics. so the cam adapters your using are degreed for 121/112?
Yes that is the spec for the cam adaptor I have to order this week.
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Old 12-10-2007, 10:01 AM
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He guys, can anyone help with this:

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=547526

Ok thanks just got the answer.

A+

Last edited by doublea; 12-10-2007 at 10:47 AM.
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Old 12-13-2007, 10:39 AM
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I found out yesterday that I have a broken cup > VIAS Well actually the metal cup that connect to the vias is oversize wich mean it cannot be activated since the pin in the vias spin freely and doesn't activate the butterfly valve. Anyway yesterday I went to the dealer to order a new one but apparently I have to order the entire Upper Intake Manifold in order to get a new butterfly valve ( is this the way it's called ? )

I know there has been a fix with JBweld but I would rather replace the part instead of doing the poor man's repair, does any one has one butterfly valve laying around and ready to go ? Or is it possible to buy a new one ? Since dealer are not always telling the truth so I dont know but can someone confirm if it's possible or not to just buy the part.

AA
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Old 12-13-2007, 10:43 AM
  #36  
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If it's a full NA project, remove the PR.
:Thoughts?
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Old 12-13-2007, 11:23 AM
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I don't mean to change the topic, but iirc someone mentioned another way to fill the LIM holes after removing the swirl valves. IIRC it had to do with a screw and JBweld. The reason for the screw was to make sure the JBweld doesn't break off and end up in the engine.

Some one please elaberate.

Edit: Reson I wrote this is because in post #35 I saw something with JBweld and intake manifold. Now that I reread the thread it seems he may be talking about another part.

Last edited by spdfreak; 12-13-2007 at 11:33 AM.
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Old 12-13-2007, 05:29 PM
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good luck w/ ur beast doublea, keep us posted on the outcome
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Old 12-13-2007, 09:23 PM
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Originally Posted by spdfreak View Post
I don't mean to change the topic, but iirc someone mentioned another way to fill the LIM holes after removing the swirl valves. IIRC it had to do with a screw and JBweld. The reason for the screw was to make sure the JBweld doesn't break off and end up in the engine.

Some one please elaberate.

Edit: Reson I wrote this is because in post #35 I saw something with JBweld and intake manifold. Now that I reread the thread it seems he may be talking about another part.
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=538119 I know i put it in the FAQ in my 00vi swap.

doublea, with your motivation, I semi-ported and all polished my TB tonight, haha. It looks great, pics are coming soon. I just wish I had the $ and time to do everything you are.
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Old 12-13-2007, 09:53 PM
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I though of filling the cup with epoxy but I'll probably go to the junkyard and find one.

Most the parts I ordered should arrive by next week, so I'll finish to unassembled the engine over the week-end. Last week-end I finish to paint the Upper Intake Manifold, it came out really nice. I should get my new camera by tomorrow, if so I'll post some pics over the week-end to show you where I stand now.

Got to go crash.

AA
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