I have an LC-1 wibeband. In the manual it says to solder all the grounds (3) along with the datalogger grounds (2) into a single lug and then bolt that to the engine block. All this is fine however it's a great deal of work to ground it to the engine block. Aside from that my EU is already grounded to the ECU ground. Do I really have to cut that ground and put it with the wideband? Is this necessary to ground the wideband in this way, or is there a simpler yet just as effective way of grounding?

Secondly, it also says in the manual that the wideband should be installed upstream of the catalytic converter. Under normal circumstances this would be fine but I didn't read that until after I had the bung welded downstream of the cat. Is this going to cause the wideband to not function properly if I install it downstream the cat?

 

Not sure about the LC-1, but i have a PLX R300. I just used the cigarette lighter for PWR/GND.

As most of us know, the cat typically causes a leaner than normal condition. Just have a shop weld a bung upstream of it, not a huge deal, welding bungs, shops charge like 20$.

http://forums.maxima.org/4207570-post6.html

Nice picture

Reference:
http://forums.maxima.org/4585874-post6.html


W/ & w/o cats, you figure it out

 

That just about covers it.

 

1. I have the LC-1 and EU as well. I grounded per the most current and up-to- date instructions downloadable from Innovate. Simple and straightforward. Follow them and you can't go wrong.

The instructions I printed from the provided cd were horrible and confusing. I wasted a lot of time and brain cells trying to understand that crap!

2. Like NmexMax said, you're going to have to suck it up and get a new bung welded in the correct location.

 

Nuts. that's what I get for not reading directions first and assuming I know what's going on. Actually I only decided to go downstream the cat because I didn't want to have to get another bung welded on when I eventually get headers. Now in the long run I'll be paying for three bungs instead of two.

Oh well, thanks a lot guys.

Wizard, you are definitely right, the directions from the CD are ridiculously confusing. I finally figured it out, but I'm going to check out the updated directions.


Edit: seems the directions I have are the same as the ones (at least installation wise) from innovates website. Still leaves my first question unanswered. I guess I'll try the cigarette lighter ground (there shouldn't be too much activity on that line causing noise), if however that gives me fluctuated readings then I'll ground the way suggested in the manual.

 

Looks like IM finally updated the cd's they provide. Good to hear.

Back to your first question......

I assume you have the optional A/F two wire harness for the EU. The ground coming from that harness needs to be tied into the same ground as the LC-1 grounds, and EU grounds. All grounds should go to the same point of connection. One of the worst things you can do is ground all wires to the same spot except for one wire; therefore causing a ground offset and more. Not good. So, I'd cut your EU wire that's grounded to the ECU ground and ground all the wires together as shown on page 6 in the LC-1 manual. This is how my setup is FWIW and I have no problems.

Also make sure you use the brown wire (analog output #2) coming from the LC-1 when tieing it into the EU (A/F harness).

Lastly, make sure you install the bung above the 3 and 9 oclock position. Best is in between 10 and 2.

 

Thanks, I had figured out most of it, I was just really confused about the grounding situation. I understood that it said wire all the things together but then it kept saying ground it on the engine block. So I was like well which is it, do I have to have them all soldered together and bolted to the engine, or will it work just soldering them all together at the same point on any ground? But it seems like the latter of the two will work just fine. So I'll be soldering them all together on the cigarette ground line.

I just got the new bung put in upstream of the cat so hopefully I can find some time to put the wideband in this evening.

Thanks again for all your help everyone.

 

I didn't want to start a thread about this nor high jack this thread (wideband installation) but i wanted to see if anybody had some info on install for the PLX R300. Ive tried looking on PLX forums for ECU Pin out, but no luck . All I found on the org was Pics on how to run the wires into the cab. Any info would be appreciated.

Thanks in Advance.

 

First find the FSM pinout for an 00-01 (02-03 are similar but some pins are different).

 

Yellow can also be used (analog output #1) it just needs to be reprogrammed in the software...

But yeah brown comes "pre set up" so easy to use for wideband output...

 

Very true, that's exactly why I recommended the brown wire. It's more 'dummy' proof so to speak.

 

Thanks for everyones help. However, now I have a new issue.

I got the wideband put in and everything has worked great for the past month or so. But then yesterday all of a sudden I was driving around and plugged in my laptop and come to find that my A/F readings are messing up. They just stayed at one reading for a long time. It's like the reading is getting frozen and then after a little while it would switch to another number, etc. I didn't worry too much about it because there have been a couple times where funky readings occurred but the system worked itself out very quickly.

Well today on my way to work I decided to look at it again but the same problem occurred. Once I got to work I checked the settings of the wideband and noticed that the read response option unselected itself, so I fixed that and started up the car again. This time as I watched the data at idle, it no longer was freezing the readings but they started jumping like crazy from 9 to 22, and its non stop jumping. I was thinking maybe there is an exhaust or vacuum leak, but the car runs perfectly fine at idle and I don't hear any unusual exhaust sounds either. I'm not sure of the problem, I guess when I get home after work I'll try to recalibrate this thing again and hope it works, but it's really annoying that this will be the 3rd time calibrating this LC-1.

Has anyone else run into this issue, or have any suggestions as to what I might look at?