Tuning with Safc and lc-1
Tuning with Safc and lc-1
Hey guys,
EDIT: My tuned a/f graph is at the bottom please comment!
So I've been watching my max get dusty in the garage and FINALLY got the trans rebuilt and a new clutch (stock). The car is an '00 5spd with i/h/y/catback.
Now I have an LC-1 and an SAFC just sitting in my room. I have done a decent amount of research, but my problem is with how I'm actually going to be doing this tuning. If the LC-1 just gets an a/f signal, the plots in LogWorks will just have a/f vs time correct? How will I then make corrections on the Safc if I don't know what my a/f is at different rpms?
Am I missing something?
Thanks,
DF
EDIT: My tuned a/f graph is at the bottom please comment!
So I've been watching my max get dusty in the garage and FINALLY got the trans rebuilt and a new clutch (stock). The car is an '00 5spd with i/h/y/catback.
Now I have an LC-1 and an SAFC just sitting in my room. I have done a decent amount of research, but my problem is with how I'm actually going to be doing this tuning. If the LC-1 just gets an a/f signal, the plots in LogWorks will just have a/f vs time correct? How will I then make corrections on the Safc if I don't know what my a/f is at different rpms?
Am I missing something?
Thanks,
DF
Last edited by dfownz; Nov 6, 2008 at 12:27 PM.
I knew that was the question the second I saw the title. Your not missing anything. Unless you buy something (i forgot what it was) that allows rpms to be read you have to basically guess at what point on your chart your at what RPM. It takes alot of toying around with. Your going to want to only record the instant you hit the gas and the instant you let off so you know your only working with 3500- 6500 rpms (or whatever your range is) and nothing more. The problem is that your in the lower rpms longer than you are the higher rpms since obviously the acceleration gradually increases.
Im still messing with mine, I finally bought a gauge so I'm hoping that it will allow me to pinpoint where the rich spots still are rather than trying to guess. :-/ kind of a ghetto set-up unless you take it to a dyno or buy that other component.
someone recommended to me that you could add alot of fuel at one point in your rpm band (say 5000) so you could pinpoint that as a reference mark on your chart since it would show as a spike. It works but it still doesnt change the fact that you could be between 3500-4500 rpm for twice as long as you could be at 5500-6500.
Im still messing with mine, I finally bought a gauge so I'm hoping that it will allow me to pinpoint where the rich spots still are rather than trying to guess. :-/ kind of a ghetto set-up unless you take it to a dyno or buy that other component.
someone recommended to me that you could add alot of fuel at one point in your rpm band (say 5000) so you could pinpoint that as a reference mark on your chart since it would show as a spike. It works but it still doesnt change the fact that you could be between 3500-4500 rpm for twice as long as you could be at 5500-6500.
Last edited by chillin014; Sep 27, 2008 at 08:46 AM.
I knew that was the question the second I saw the title. Your not missing anything. Unless you buy something (i forgot what it was) that allows rpms to be read you have to basically guess at what point on your chart your at what RPM. It takes alot of toying around with. Your going to want to only record the instant you hit the gas and the instant you let off so you know your only working with 3500- 6500 rpms (or whatever your range is) and nothing more. The problem is that your in the lower rpms longer than you are the higher rpms since obviously the acceleration gradually increases.
Im still messing with mine, I finally bought a gauge so I'm hoping that it will allow me to pinpoint where the rich spots still are rather than trying to guess. :-/ kind of a ghetto set-up unless you take it to a dyno or buy that other component.
someone recommended to me that you could add alot of fuel at one point in your rpm band (say 5000) so you could pinpoint that as a reference mark on your chart since it would show as a spike. It works but it still doesnt change the fact that you could be between 3500-4500 rpm for twice as long as you could be at 5500-6500.
Im still messing with mine, I finally bought a gauge so I'm hoping that it will allow me to pinpoint where the rich spots still are rather than trying to guess. :-/ kind of a ghetto set-up unless you take it to a dyno or buy that other component.
someone recommended to me that you could add alot of fuel at one point in your rpm band (say 5000) so you could pinpoint that as a reference mark on your chart since it would show as a spike. It works but it still doesnt change the fact that you could be between 3500-4500 rpm for twice as long as you could be at 5500-6500.
I have the ssi-4 in the mail, but I was thinking....which I do sometimes
I have a SAFC 1 and I know there are tons of different versions up now. The only real thing I care about is that I'll have enough correction points to give myself a decent tune. I understand that the vafc has 12 (I think) and the neo has 16-24 (according to some ebay seller).
Have you guys been able to successfully tune with the safc 1 n/a? Sorry if I'm being too picky here, but I really don't want to install this damn safc again just to realize that I need a vafc or something with more points.
Also have any of you turbo folks been able to use the safc1 to get a good tune?
Thanks!!
Denis
I have a SAFC 1 and I know there are tons of different versions up now. The only real thing I care about is that I'll have enough correction points to give myself a decent tune. I understand that the vafc has 12 (I think) and the neo has 16-24 (according to some ebay seller).
Have you guys been able to successfully tune with the safc 1 n/a? Sorry if I'm being too picky here, but I really don't want to install this damn safc again just to realize that I need a vafc or something with more points.
Also have any of you turbo folks been able to use the safc1 to get a good tune?
Thanks!!
Denis
I have the ssi-4 in the mail, but I was thinking....which I do sometimes
I have a SAFC 1 and I know there are tons of different versions up now. The only real thing I care about is that I'll have enough correction points to give myself a decent tune. I understand that the vafc has 12 (I think) and the neo has 16-24 (according to some ebay seller).
Have you guys been able to successfully tune with the safc 1 n/a? Sorry if I'm being too picky here, but I really don't want to install this damn safc again just to realize that I need a vafc or something with more points.
Also have any of you turbo folks been able to use the safc1 to get a good tune?
Thanks!!
Denis
I have a SAFC 1 and I know there are tons of different versions up now. The only real thing I care about is that I'll have enough correction points to give myself a decent tune. I understand that the vafc has 12 (I think) and the neo has 16-24 (according to some ebay seller).
Have you guys been able to successfully tune with the safc 1 n/a? Sorry if I'm being too picky here, but I really don't want to install this damn safc again just to realize that I need a vafc or something with more points.
Also have any of you turbo folks been able to use the safc1 to get a good tune?
Thanks!!
Denis
Just remember to set when the switch takes place on the vafc and tune on both LVT and HVT maps or you'll be wondering why the corrections wont register on the wideband...
For all motor, the safc1 is okay. 95blkmax did it for a while. But you can only do so much with 6 tuning points. The safc2 has 12 tuning points and we were able to get a flat A/F with that on 3 pulls with no prior tuning. (everything was reset to 0) The vafc2 technically has 24 because you have a LVT and a HVT mode. (low vtec and high vtec) I dont think I have to explain the advantages of this.
Just remember to set when the switch takes place on the vafc and tune on both LVT and HVT maps or you'll be wondering why the corrections wont register on the wideband...
Just remember to set when the switch takes place on the vafc and tune on both LVT and HVT maps or you'll be wondering why the corrections wont register on the wideband...


I had the SAFC1 with the 3.0 and 3.5 NA working perfectly fine with its limited points. Ran it for ~3yrs like that.
For turbo is it NOT enough tuning points. I had to immediately after putting turbo, upgrade to the SAFC2 because I simple didnt have enough tuning points. Having no signal from my o2s, I have to tune my "closed-loop area", so with the 1 I was using all the points just to be able to drive the car.
But honestly, if you plan to go turbo in the NEAR future, just get an E-manage Blue or Ultimate from now to save you the hassle. If you wont be going turbo for another year or so, just get the AFC2 so yo can get familiar with how your particular curve likes to be tuned/ cheaper off the bat.
ok boys finally got everything!!
Now I'm reading up the manuals right now and they say to use all the same grounds. Does this mean the lc-1 and ssi-4 should share exactly ONE ground? Also, do you guys have suggestions as where to ground it?
Next, all I'm going to use for input (besides the serial in from the lc-1) is RPM. Now each channel has a + and -. How do I make this connection? I have the safc in right now and have the rpm wire, but what do I do about the negative?
Sorry I'm a little confused.
DF
Now I'm reading up the manuals right now and they say to use all the same grounds. Does this mean the lc-1 and ssi-4 should share exactly ONE ground? Also, do you guys have suggestions as where to ground it?
Next, all I'm going to use for input (besides the serial in from the lc-1) is RPM. Now each channel has a + and -. How do I make this connection? I have the safc in right now and have the rpm wire, but what do I do about the negative?
Sorry I'm a little confused.

DF
Yes, they should share the same ground. Any solid piece of chassis or frame will do. Just be sure to buzz away the paint if any is there for the best possible connection. I just looked for the beefiest spot behind the driver's side kick panel and made my own grounding spot.
Excellent!
What about the RPM part? That part is still confusing me.
EDIT: For clarification:
I'm talking about ch1 on the ssi-4. Can I just put the rpm signal wire from the ecu (same wire thats being used by the safc...green one I think) into the ch1+ and have the ch1- go to the safc? Or should I split the wire and have one go to the safc and one to the ssi-4?
GRRR
What about the RPM part? That part is still confusing me.
EDIT: For clarification:
I'm talking about ch1 on the ssi-4. Can I just put the rpm signal wire from the ecu (same wire thats being used by the safc...green one I think) into the ch1+ and have the ch1- go to the safc? Or should I split the wire and have one go to the safc and one to the ssi-4?
GRRR
Last edited by dfownz; Oct 16, 2008 at 01:14 PM.
Here's a snippet of the instruction manual:
Connect the RPM signal to the CH+ input screw terminal.
Connect the CH- signal to the ground of the RPM signal source. For example, the ground of the ignition system, not where it's ground wire connects to the frame or engine.
Also, contact mowlig29, he's installed one of these..
Have you tried calling Innovate? Their customer support is pretty good.
Connect the RPM signal to the CH+ input screw terminal.
Connect the CH- signal to the ground of the RPM signal source. For example, the ground of the ignition system, not where it's ground wire connects to the frame or engine.
Also, contact mowlig29, he's installed one of these..
Have you tried calling Innovate? Their customer support is pretty good.
Ok so I got everything installed Lc-1 works fine at least I think so at this point....but my trouble is with the ssi-4.
EDIT: I forgot to mention that LogWorks2 sees both the lc-1 a/f and the rpm....its just the rpm's messed up(see below).
Now I have it hooked up the following way:
PWR ->ECU power (same thing I used for the safc),
GND(the ground next to power not the other two)->Frame of the car (lc-1 and ssi-4 share this ground),
CH1+->ECU rpm (same one used for rpm wire on safc),
CH1--> ECU ground (attached to the brown ground of the safc).
Everything else including all the CHx's and VRx's and the other two GND's and the 5v are left unconnected.
Now my problem starts when I try to use the LMProgrammer to program the ssi-4. I disconnect the serial in (the lc-1 going into the ssi-4) and start up LMProg. I get to the screen where I can change the name of the device and select the tabs for the Inputs. However when I make changes, such as making the ssi-4 input 1 6cyl 4 stroke, and then press the Program button it just goes grey. The settings never get programmed and the grey'ed button never goes back to normal.
Have any of you guys experienced this? Also did I hook up everything correctly
Thanks again!!!!
EDIT: I forgot to mention that LogWorks2 sees both the lc-1 a/f and the rpm....its just the rpm's messed up(see below).
Now I have it hooked up the following way:
PWR ->ECU power (same thing I used for the safc),
GND(the ground next to power not the other two)->Frame of the car (lc-1 and ssi-4 share this ground),
CH1+->ECU rpm (same one used for rpm wire on safc),
CH1--> ECU ground (attached to the brown ground of the safc).
Everything else including all the CHx's and VRx's and the other two GND's and the 5v are left unconnected.
Now my problem starts when I try to use the LMProgrammer to program the ssi-4. I disconnect the serial in (the lc-1 going into the ssi-4) and start up LMProg. I get to the screen where I can change the name of the device and select the tabs for the Inputs. However when I make changes, such as making the ssi-4 input 1 6cyl 4 stroke, and then press the Program button it just goes grey. The settings never get programmed and the grey'ed button never goes back to normal.
Have any of you guys experienced this? Also did I hook up everything correctly

Thanks again!!!!
Called Innovate and they told me to try the Logworks3, which I didn't know was out.
I'll report back once my laptop charges back up!
EVERYTHING WORKS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
LOGWORKS3 FTMFW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I'll report back once my laptop charges back up!
EVERYTHING WORKS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
LOGWORKS3 FTMFW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Last edited by dfownz; Oct 22, 2008 at 03:49 PM.
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