So I have the motor taken apart and I am looking at the rod bolts but, I havent taken them out because I cant find the torque spec for them. I am installing the ARP's. The factory and ARP bolts have the same torque spec, correct? Someone just shoot me an answer so I can get this done and put the new s/c on.
Thanks,
Zack

 

28 ft/lbs with the ARP supplied lube, as posted on their website.

FWIW, stock rod bolts are TTY; 15 ft/lbs and 90 degrees.

 

what is FWIW? TTY? 90 degrees? Sorry im new to this.
Thanks,
Zack

 

FWIW == For What It's Worth.
TTY == Torque To Yield
90 degrees is...90 degrees. Half of 180, a quarter of 360.

 

Thats the sentence i didnt understand

 

What about it?

For what it's worth, stock rod bolts are torque to yield, 15 ft/lbs and 90 degrees.

You mean the 90 degrees? That's the TTY part. You torque it to 15 ft/lbs, then 90 degrees beyond that.

But honestly, if you've never even heard of torque to yield fasteners...

 

Yeah this is all new to me. I have never taken off more than a valve cover or IM set up. Im trying to learn. So when I put the ARP bolts in I know I want to tighten and loosen three times to stretch or seat them properly. So after the ARP's are at 28ft/lbs I dont need to turn the extra 90?

 

No, the ARP rod bolts are not TTY fasteners. Just the torque spec provided. If you need other ARP torque specs, they're all listed on the ARP website.

 

thats all i needed to know. thank you

 

I would cycle them 5 times including final tightening.

 

TQ each rod bolt to 28ft lbs 3 times

1. Tq -loosen

1. tq -loosen

1. tq

no loosen this time k Good luck
Dont forget to check those bearings for scoring & pitting

 

Im guessing you are referring to the rod bearings correct? Where exactly are those? I am a total rookie when it comes to this. Ill search around for some pictures of them and what bad ones look like. If anyone has some please post them up.
Zack

 

Ok so the rod bolts are in. Everything else checked out. Now I have moved on to changing the main timing chain, tensioner, and the guide the tensioner rests on. After I had taken off the guides and the tensioner I went to take the chain off. The front cams and the crankshaft moved and the rear cams stayed in place. Do I just move the rear cam sprocket the same direction until the arrows on the cam sprockets are lined up on the black links and the crank indent is lined up with the orange link? All the pictures I have seen dont show the black or orange chain links.

 

BUMP! Anyone please? I really need this thing back together

 

I never thought I would say this but..
Man you have to do more research.. Trust me on this one..lol
http://forums.maxima.org/all-motor/5...ss-thread.html

 

Well I figured it out on my own. I guess I was too tired. I had been working during the day, then 6 hours straight on the car, and the pain pills the docs been giving me. Nothing made since. When I woke up, the fsm and everything made since. It was just one of those days, ya know? Well its all downhill from here. I have the s/c mounted and the motor will be in soon. Ill start a new thread in the Supercharged/Turbocharged forums.
Thanks,
Zack

(BTW, I have read that thread probably 50 times and had the fsm in front me. I was just too out of it.)

 

Ok I guess you were out of it...
Goodluck with the build