Mr.Duck

iTrader: (8)

sorry, i read all the stickies, and i searched, but i cant seem to find any information on it, is there anything extra i need to do on the install if i'm installing the 3.5 in my 99? also will there be any CEL codes from this? any help would be greatly appreciated!

MDeezy

iTrader: (27)

some have cels whether they are 99's or not. Dont see why it wont work for you. Do you have a fed or cali spec?

on my 95 I had no cel... strange cause my rear o2 was not present.

my 97... once I plug in my rear o2 I'll have no cel.


I believe many are running fine with no cel on.

one_fast_max

iTrader: (4)

what do you mean different? there is quite a bit of stuff to do. most likey you will get a cel but its possible not to

heres a great read! this is a very detailed swap. enjoy!

http://www.vqpower.com/v2/articles.php?article_id=82

Mr.Duck

iTrader: (8)

well the engine that i'm purchasing is already set up to be dropped in, the timing has already been switched over, it has dek injectors on it, all i gotta do is put the starter, alternator, ect on the 3.5 from my 3.0, i was just trying to make sure that my 99 doesnt have any stupid crap on it that will cause a CEL...

mdeezy- its a fed spec
onefastmax- i saw that write up, its awesome! it answered a lot of my initial questions i had about the swap, and what i meant by extra was, since mine is a 99, is there anything different w/ the install vs a 95-98? since the 99's seem to sometimes be a bit different.. lol

one quick question for all you 3.5 swappers... is it worth it? i mean is it worth risking having the oil eating problems? i was talking to a buddy who did a 3.5 swap, and he said he wouldn't do it to a daily driver cuz he had so many problems with the 3.5... my 3.0 still has a decent amount life left in it, so i've been racking my brain, and cant seem to come up w/ a 100% decision yet... so what do you all think? thanks!

sorry thought of one last question, if my 3.5 does end up having an oil problem, how hard is it to fix?

accordingtou

iTrader: (41)

[quote=Mr.Duck;6873375]well the engine that i'm purchasing is already set up to be dropped in, the timing has already been switched over, it has dek injectors on it, all i gotta do is put the starter, alternator, ect on the 3.5 from my 3.0, i was just trying to make sure that my 99 doesnt have any stupid crap on it that will cause a CEL...

mdeezy- its a fed spec
onefastmax- i saw that write up, its awesome! it answered a lot of my initial questions i had about the swap, and what i meant by extra was, since mine is a 99, is there anything different w/ the install vs a 95-98? since the 99's seem to sometimes be a bit different.. lol

one quick question for all you 3.5 swappers... is it worth it? i mean is it worth risking having the oil eating problems? i was talking to a buddy who did a 3.5 swap, and he said he wouldn't do it to a daily driver cuz he had so many problems with the 3.5... my 3.0 still has a decent amount life left in it, so i've been racking my brain, and cant seem to come up w/ a 100% decision yet... so what do you all think? thanks!

sorry thought of one last question, if my 3.5 does end up having an oil problem, how hard is it to fix?[/quote]


Yes...

3.5 Oil consumption is overrarted. Keep a quart in your trunk

MDeezy

iTrader: (27)

should be a quick swap for you then! shouldnt really take longer than a day and you'll be back up and running!
why is everyone bringing back up the oil burning issues? someone bump the oil thread discussion on it so it can shed better light..


to answer the question of was it worth it? Yes... sweet jesus yes. Not only to be different, to challenge myself and have a setup very different from the norm. I love the power, and surprised look when I can take off, haul, and/or my supreme "merging power"

Mr.Duck

iTrader: (8)

lol mdeezy you crack me up, what oil consumption thread? i searched and cannot find it, i would love to read it... if you got a link i'd appreciate it!

looks like from most of your responses ill probably be doing this, so to get one last thing straight, you guys are all driving your 4.5's daily i assume?

accordingtou

iTrader: (41)

More like weekendly / monthly for me.lol But I drive it to work every so often. Fyi I have driven hundreds of miles round trip with this car, its made numerous passes down the track n/a & nitrous. I do know a local org member with a DD 4.5 gen. who puts a lot of miles on it driving up & down the east coast. Like any other... vehicle preventive maintenance is key.

petro2342

That's scary to think about, but I don't see why it wouldn't be a perfect daily driver. I plan on swapping the 3.5 this summer when its warmer and using it as a daily driver. As long as any car is maintained well it should serve you good.

MDeezy

iTrader: (27)

I'll search and bump it up... now that i think about it, it might have been on my350z I saw it, but i'll seach and find it.


I have been daily driving my 4.5thgen for the last 4 yeas almost. Hot weather, cold, windy, and/or rainy. She's always been reliable and there for me

Mr.Duck

iTrader: (8)

well thats reassuring... i hope some more ppl can chime in so i can get a more general concensus, ill probably be attempting this in the next few weeks, hopefully it gets a bit warmer...

one more question i just thought of, the NWS VIAS block plate, is it worth it?

one_fast_max

iTrader: (4)

VIAS Delete...


http://forums.maxima.org/all-motor/5...o-comparo.html

MDeezy

iTrader: (27)

great find I remember that thread. and reconfirms what I thought... basically pick your powerband. you want good low end, stick with the VIAS, if you want more up top power. do the delete and be merry.

MDeezy

iTrader: (27)

now that I think about it. I love the low end power, I love off the line agility cause not everyone has that.

I'd rather keep the VIAS, but add the nwp thermal spacers to assist with a better power band.

some could do the NWP delete plus *** the thermal spacers to try to help compensate with the power lost on the low end (assuming with the dyno shows gains on the low end)

Mr.Duck

iTrader: (8)

yeah i read that post,the thing is the engine already comes with SSIM, and i cant find any dynos that compare SSIM vs SSIM & VIAS delete, and was trying to figure that out...

and i'm contemplating on getting the thermal spacers, its just a lot of money... haha cuz i still have to buy a stage 1 clutch also... so engine + clutch = lots of money for me atm.. lol but i was thinking while i was installing the engine, i could take off the IM and throw the spacers on real quick, will there be any clearence issues w/ our 4th gen hoods?

MDeezy

iTrader: (27)

oh didnt know yours comes with the SSIM. You looking for good top end or low end? based on the link the SSIM actually loss some power in areas, but without a raised rev limiter you wont get to really let the IM sing... I'd atleast sell and get a stock IM... but if you think you'll boost later that SSIM can be benificial... it all really depends on the your plans, power goals and how you want your power band

I believe Aaron got asked about space for the 4th gen guys, I believe all is good, no washers or nothing needed. if your have a FSTB I can speak on that. PM him and see what he says.

I feel you, swap will already drain your pockets. If anything just get the car up and running flawless no problems, then add on mods after.

Mr.Duck

iTrader: (8)

hmmm, you got a point there, i mean its not hard to put the spacers on with the engine in right? its just taking off the UIM, LIM and TB? can all that be done in the engine bay?

Ah! i forgot to ask a question, i have a motorstorm UDP, will that fit on the 3.5?

kzoosho

iTrader: (16)

Now i see who got the motor. *** lol. Just kidding.

Mr.Duck

iTrader: (8)

hahaha sorry dude....

kzoosho

iTrader: (16)

he called me saturday. Hell i been trying to get one for months. but o well.

Mr.Duck

iTrader: (8)

damn man you're making me feel bad..... but i've been wanting to do this for a while too, just never acted upon it... need some way to keep my new car craving down for a while... lol

kzoosho

iTrader: (16)

Its all good. I plan to rip it apart for a build so no biggie. But if you havent paid for it man you may want to. I have cash in hand and his cell number lol.

Mr.Duck

iTrader: (8)

lol already being taken care of

kzoosho

iTrader: (16)

lol ok

Mr.Duck

iTrader: (8)

mdeezy, did you happen to find that oil thread?

MDeezy

iTrader: (27)

sorry. still searching. I think it was on the Z forums.... I'll find it...

MDeezy

iTrader: (27)

from what i've re-read its a hit or mss. You might get a motor that burns a lot, you might get a motor that barely burns any. you might get a motor that doesnt burn at all..

Z/G have had the problem some rev ups, some non revs. anyway.. here are a few to start..

http://forums.maxima.org/other-cars/...n-problem.html

http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread/139103

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...d-finally.html

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...ase-enter.html


basically it boils down to each person making their own choice and if you want to take the risk or not. I have with 2 motors and had no problems. Problem going reduced to being the rings on the pistons so if your worrying and want to re-ring your pistons this would alleviate you of the worry of oil consumption... at a given cost...

I believe the 07 altima rings were used by an org member and has great success with them... noramlly I have the memeory of an elephant but I cant remember which org member that was that did the 07 altima rings... I want to say Jimie

MDeezy

iTrader: (27)

interesting....
http://www.netcrafting.com/car_mx/pathfinder/oil.html

KRRZ350

iTrader: (29)

The '99 egr system has a retarded failsafe mode where if it detects the egr isn't working it will not allow the motor to rev past 3k. The one time I did a 3.5 swap on a '99 I was conpletely unaware of this but he needed to pass a roller test so I tapped a fitting into the manifold, tracked down some super high-temp hose, and had a fully functioning egr in place, EXCEPT we left it unplugged. Well shortly after the owner kept having it kick into this failsafe mode, a little research in the FSM and sure enough once he plugged his egr in no more safemode.

(edit) Taken from pg 101 EC from the '99 fsm. DTC p0403 EGR volume control valve circuit Engine speed will not rise more than 2,800 rpm's due to fuel cut.

kzoosho

iTrader: (16)

So sell me the motor and keep the VI. I can make you a turbo kit lol.

JAMAICANLOVRBOY

iTrader: (3)

IMO, i dont think oil burning is overrated. i dont want to have to add 1-2 qts of oil between oil changes especially since i use synthetic. the 3.0 spoiled me that way.

nismology

iTrader: (8)

You're misunderstanding what a VIAS delete is. All it means is that you remove the stock power valve and replace it with a block-off plate. An SSIM removes the entire shelf.

Mr.Duck

iTrader: (8)

oh crud... sent you a pm w/ a few questions.. appreciate your input...


well depending on how much work i need to do to get my egr to work.. the engine may be yours...

grey99max

iTrader: (12)

Since I don't have to pass any annual tests, when I installed my custom headers I had the original EGR hole welded shut, then connected the cables back to the EGR module as a standalone and things were fine after that... apparently the ECU gets upset if it doesn't "see" the EGR module attached.

EDIT - a pix of the EGR properly wire-tied in place.. pre-nitrous install on the 3.5..

KRRZ350

iTrader: (29)

Ah no ****, interesting, it wasn't plugged in when it was going into that failsafe mode. Love that about these ecu's. For those that want a functioning egr though:

Ugggh, man it sucks, it ended up being a ***** finding everything and it was tricky doing it as well, so I took pictures of everything and every step only to lose them!!

I used a brass 5/8" nipple since that was the only size I could find that special high-temp hose for, it was so tough to find that hose locally or online/in catalogs, I finally found some at a mustang shop. Lucky for you though (not for me) I later found out that a '96? sohc taurus v6 uses the perfect size high-temp hose for part of its egr!!! Get that hose from the junkyard, match that up with a fitting at home depot, get a tap for that fitting and woila! OK, not really. haha.

On the back of the manifold there is one spot where it is very flat and thickest. But it's by no means thick, it's very very thin, but it worked for that car. I had to use a $30 tap for his mega-sized fitting; and like the smaller fitting you will probably get; it was tapered NPT or "national pipe thread" So drill the hole (Or holes- pilot hole ftw) very carefully, than when you start tapping keep checking the fitting so it goes in good, throw some "High temp high strength loc-tite" (FYI, not all "red" loctite is "high temp") on the threads of the fitting and use care not to overtighten. Route the hose from the fitting to a hacked up egr metal piping and your done. The 3.5 heads have holes tapped for the egr to bolt up to.

whlimi

iTrader: (11)

Hey Kevin,
I will find the pics I took and post them. It doesnt go through all the steps but it will show the OP what you're describing. Functional and clean setup.
When I had the EGR unplugged, the fuel cut was intermittent. Most of the time the car drove perfectly fine but every once in a while it would kick in and it sucks when you're trying to merge and the car starts bucking. I did the same thing as grey99max. I had an extra egr valve lying around and I just plugged the harness into that and problem solved.

kzoosho

iTrader: (16)

let me know

Mr.Duck

iTrader: (8)

sweet from waht grey99max said, i dont need to do all that custom work that KRRZ350 had to do... thank goodness, if i had to do that i woulda prolli just sold the engine... but i'm gonna go the route that grey99max explained, and hopefully it all works out! i'm so excited for this, thanks everyone for your help i really appreciate it!

oh one last question, on my 3.0 i have a motostorm UDP, will that work on the 3.5? cuz the 3.5 i'm getting doesnt haev the pulley

MDeezy

iTrader: (27)

3.0 one will work.

maximariceboi

iTrader: (32)

Wow..I have this problem everytime I reset the codes.....

codes show 1105 and 0403....

After turning off the engine and starting it back up, I was able to rev past 2800 but i can't get rid of the codes...