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Full race cams

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Old Feb 28, 2009 | 01:51 PM
  #1  
JClaw's Avatar
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From: Montreal, Qc, Canada
Full race cams

GT Motorsports® Stage I NA/Supercharger Spec camshafts for the VQ35DE

Specifications

Stage1:
Intake: 264 deg (stock 238)
Exhaust: 256 deg (stock 240)
Lift: 0.435” (intake) and 0.423” (exhaust)
Overlap: 22 deg (at 0.045” lift) – more than stock

Stage 2:
282/272 degrees @ .012”
240/232 degrees @ .050”
11.50mm/11.00mm Valve lift (intake/exhaust)

Stage 3:
302/292 degrees @ .012”
256/250 degrees @ .050”
11.50mm/11.00mm Valve lift (intake/exhaust)


We always choose the Stage 1-ish JWTknockoffs for streetability but after custom dilling my previous nismo cams to full retard the idle was surprisingly good. I dont think I would mind Full race cams in a street motor considering I would keep a stock 2002 maxima muffler with a big resonator so even if I have to idle at 1500 not to lope, sound wont be too loud.

What prevents me from just throwing in eagle rods, HR oil pump, stage 3 cams & valve springs? If I dont mind a 1200-1300 RPM idle with a stock muffler?

Someone always talks of reduced dynamic compression with full race cams. I assume this has nothing to do with the static 10.3 CR right? What kind of effect does this have on driveability?

I would keep stock pistons, I like the stock 10.3:1 CR (let's run 40 degrees timing!) because I have this fear of aftermarket pistons going oval. Any objections of pairing eagle rods with stock pistons for 7700-7800 RPMs?

One of the reasons I would go back to the max after having an s13 is that with the facists running our government, I wouldnt be surprised if they start cracking down on car modifications, engine swaps, etc. soon and I think having as stock a car as possible is the way to go IMO, so as to not get screwed by insurance companies or the police.

They cant tell the difference between a VQ30 or 35 if I use a 00vi on the 3.5. They cannot tell that it's swapped. Thats why I think I am going to avoid turbocharged, or ITB's.

So I'm trying to build the fastest car I can while still passing any kind of inspection, and I can back off timing with the E-U if I have to. I think a VQ35 with stock pistons, eagle rods, a 00vi and aggressive cams would be the thoughest, most reliable setup. I can swap a 6-speed and play with clutches, flywheels, gear ratios and it would still pass all mechanical inspections. If I got into an accident, insurance company would not be able to screw me over.

Last edited by JClaw; Feb 28, 2009 at 02:00 PM.
Old Feb 28, 2009 | 02:06 PM
  #2  
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Why? With stage 3 cams you are almost guaranteed to lose power anywhere below the stock redline without CVTC or raising the static compression ratio to compensate for the greatly decreased dynamic compression. You'd be overcamming your bottom end by a good amount since you'd also have to be revving to like 8500+ RPM to overcome the massive torque losses everywhere else.

Last edited by nismology; Feb 28, 2009 at 02:30 PM.
Old Feb 28, 2009 | 04:53 PM
  #3  
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I would throw in a 6-speed HLSD with a 4.42 final drive and lightweight flywheel to compensate for the TQ losses. I would rev to 7800 or so. And use 245 50 16 nitto DR's on 16x8.5 300zx TT wheels as street tires.

Wha about stage 2 cams + 11.0 wiseco pistons? No VTCs, 3.0 timing chain, valve springs, pathfinder heads and 00 vi.

Last edited by JClaw; Feb 28, 2009 at 05:08 PM.
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