Another 3.5 swap thread
 

K as some of u may know im doing a 3.5 swap, picked up a 3.5 for $150 so right now its just getting everything together, i wanted to do a high revving 3.5 but time is against me and i need to get it done quick, as it stands now the motor is untouched in my basement since this is the first time i have done a job this big i think i should take things step by step so not to blow things up :noes:

Parts i have as of now for it:

Altima VQ35
350Z headgasket
extra set of VQ30 timing equipment
extra 4th gen TB
Rev-up cams(in transit)
Spec Stage 2 clutch

parts that need to be ordered:
Cam Spacer/Adapter
head studs
possible HR valve springs&oil pump

Im trying to decide about the Cam spacer and IAVC, JWT has the spacer for sale for $34 + shipping, stephen max quoted me $125 + shipping, from what i hear stephen's are just bolt, them on and keep going, and the JWTs u have to actually do the timing. And some people are running with no IACV, im wondering how they are doing it, if i just have a couple of cold start issues so i just have to sit in the car and pump the gas for a few secs i dont mind. i could use the money saved from not having to buy an adapter

People have also said i will need a Pathfinder throttle body if i want to keep cruise, but i dont see why we cant retrofit all the 4th gen components onto the e-throttle while converting it to cable driven anybody want to shine some light on that.

pics coming tomorrow.

you can use the 4gen tb but it will be the bottle neck in your setup if you plan to on doing a high reving setup

^^^

+1 plus you will have to rig up a adapter to make it to bolt up as well.

You can just leave the ivac un plugged and you will throw a code and probley have some cold starting issues. You will also have a high idle as well.

to add to that list i would get some arp main bolts as well......

As for the adapter vs spacers. I would just get the adapters. I wouldnt try to mess with the cam timing unless you know what you are exactly doing. I have the adapters and the cam sprocket doesnt put any stress on those bolts if you torque the sprockets correctly

im using the E-throttle that comes on the 3.5 and converting it to cable driven. the problem is cruise control people said i cant keep it if i go that route. If i wanted to keep Cruise i would have to get a pathy TB

I ran for a while just using the 5th gen TB. It worked its just obviously more easier with the PFTB.

if you went with the pathy route you mid as well use the ivac off that.

I am glad you mentioned about the Pathy IACV coz I got some questions on how it can be connected with the 4th gen harness.

I`ve seen members who actually cut up the connector and simply stick it into the pathy IAVC while other were talking about flipping it 180 degree????

do the motor mounts from the 3.0 work with the 3.5 or have to change them?

all FWD VQs share the same mounting positions, so motor mounts dont have to be changed.

k im waiting for some parts to come in im going to order the cam adapters later today once i get some money.

Fuel question: how do i turn the fuel rail into a non return style?

and any other random misc that i have to worry about to get everything working?

You need to get a adjustable FPR.

Also you will need the injector clips off the 3.5 but ones off the de-k will work as well.

what are you going to do with your TB setup??

Are you going to use the 3.5 upper oil pan or are you going to use the 3.0 pan??

Who here sells the PFTB adapter plate!? I think i'm going to have to convert from to one.. my TPS is just not aligned properly... and the car keeps getting a small studder when hitting WOT quickly!
Dont mean to thread jack, but it might be something you'd want to consider.

an adjustable FPR? i figured i would have to something about the fuel injectors.

im going to use the 3.5's TB but convert it to cable driven.

and i was planning on using the 3.5's oil pan, unless u have to modify it in some way.....

this should be interesting :wall:

You have big plans for your swap, and good luck with it.. but you really need to research the swap sticky. You have big plans, but it doesnt seem you know too much about the swap. Take your time and research it well. I read and read for a good yea until i decided on juming into it.
Some of the questions/concerns you have have been covered on that sticky. I'm, in no way bashing you or anything like that, I'm just trying to help out... nah mean! Again...good luck man!

yea man the 3.5 converted TB is very simple, also the 3.0 throttle body will bolt up by 2 bolts and work perfectly. i had the 3.5 converted TB but i came across a q45 TB which i am using now(feels way better)

oh i have read them quite a few times, there are just somethings not listed in doing the swap. i would rather start my own thread so i can ask specific questions about the swap. That and i have to get this swap done before it gets cold, it seriously cant wait.

use the 3.0.

I also have some injector plugs if you need those. Some 3.5 motors come with all 6, some come with just the 3 that are on the rear bank. I have either 6 or 9 so hit me up if you need some.

plus I have a spare 3.0 oil pan laying around too..

I recommend using the 3.0 oil pans are you will need to do no modification. Simply bolt up, bolt in the sensor and done.

if you use the 3.5 pan and 3.0 sensor you will need to grin down 1/4 off the mounting location so it sits flush as it would on the 3.0 pan.

Toss the 3.0 on...much easier and less headache and worry of something going wrong.

fuel pressure regulator... the inlet from the fuel filter into the inlet of the regulator then one tee off to the return line, and the other to the fuel rail.



The pathfinder throttle body is good and nicely sized but the iacv setup for it is electric and it gets removed and blocked off. With that being done there is nothing to regulate the air. So with no IACV and the pathy tb it will stall out each time you clutch in and rpms fall.

The 3.5 throttle body has its electric iacv build into it. Even with the tb not receving electrical power its still able to help regulate the air, so once converted you wont need your 4th gen IACV. there is an screw to help adjust idle on the tb so you'll be fine.

the pathy had the extra space for cruise, there is way to do it on the 3.5 but you'll need to get creative, most dont even bother with it as they dont really use cruise. I have the pathy and I still really dont use cruise..
[B]good score!


I dont recommend using the 3.0 tb at all. Way too small, as its been said it will be a bottle kneck for high revving or just regular driving in general.

to help with the pathfinder visual setup....

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v7...tlebracket.jpg

Stephen max does. Dont think anyone else does. but if you have access to a few tools and have about an hour or two you can make your own.

http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_i...0078_large.jpg

here is a picture of a non return set up style
The one on the top is returnless and the one on the bottom is return style

+1 on using the 3.0 oil pan. Its cake just to drop it in.

Just remember to remove the dip stick when putting it back on

:hide:

Link no work.

WTF?? It worked in the F\I section...

http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/g...0078_large.jpg
Top is returnless bottom is return style

and while we are on pictures
Burn these images in your head

http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/g...2/DSC07033.jpg

http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/g...2/DSC07035.jpg

http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/g...icture1537.jpg

http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/g...ture1538-1.jpg

Interesting...I did mine very different that how that image has it displayed...

+1

:hide:

You, me, track, nitrous v. swap :run:

Here is a picture of the method I used to convert my 3.5 fuel rail to a return system. This is in my A32 3.5 swap. I used a 3.0 FPR mated to one end as the inlet from the fuel tank, and a modified fuel tube/hose on the other end to return to the tank.

http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z...t/DSC00123.jpg

^lol u remind me i had to upload pics

k here is the motor just sitting in my basement, i havent touched it yet:

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y19...t/100_1593.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y19...t/100_1594.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y19...t/100_1596.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y19...t/100_1599.jpg

Any problem or concern somebody can spot right off the bat?

And no. Trust me u do not want the VLSD sitting next to the motor.

Seems like the engine had the "typical vq leaks" Cover the intake & fuel inlet's to prevent small debris fron getting in where they dont belong.;)
A compression or cylinder leak down test will tell half the story. The other half will come once you open her up.

yea it will be interesting to see what the compression test will turn out. hopefully everything will be in check.

You guys and your amazing deals....it cost me nearly $800 for a low mile KA24DE a couple of years back....


Jeremy

lmao gawd damn. im trying to break the record for the lost cost VQ35 swap. im sitting pretty @ $400 right now.

u and nobody else in the universe aint breakin my record dude, i got my basically brand new 07 vq35 motor with 4200 miles for FREEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE, and the total amount i spent in doin the swap was about $350-400

:mad:


the whole swap still wasnt free... you had buy rtv, clutch etc..


but 07 motor for freee??:squint:

Ib4hedroppeditoutofarandommaximasittingonthestreet

:laugh:

Hey :matt93se:, with ur 5 fingers with 3 friends discount.


how did u get a free VQ35 thou? And if u dont count the rev-up cams i just bought u can chop another $100 off that price :chuckle:

I did mine for about that much............. maybe 450 with all the rtv and fluids but now mine is sitting in my drive way :(

wow, no my friend i dont get down like that.i was just in the right place at the right time

waiting on headstuds now, but look what came in:

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y19...t/100_1607.jpg

WRONG, if you're creative, you can use CC with a converted 3.5 TB setup. My setup is kinda ghetto, but it works flawlessly.