Then maybe you could disconnect the alternator ( BIG switch?) and use a Big Boosta to keep your pump up to speed? Hmmm... that's a trick I could use....

I get mine from http://www.powerstream.com/ DC/DC Converters, and the 120 watt version is P/N PST-SP09, for $62.50 + shipping.

 

Turning off the alternator doesn't make a difference as far as power to the ground. But removing the belt does. That's what I've done with the VE so many times in the past. But with the VQ35 and higher pressure, I can't do it without running lean.

I can't find any information on Walbro pumps as far as flow rate with amps at a certain psi. I want to find out if the 255 pump takes the same amperage as the stock pump, but yet flows more. I can't find any information on www.walbro.com either.

I've never had a reason to upgrade my fuel pump until now.

I don't think I have a reason to boost the voltage in my car right now.

 

Found something: http://autoperformanceengineering.com/html/fpspecs.html

 

The point of the voltage booster/regulator is that you can take off your belt and still maintain 13.5 volts to your fuel pump until the battery voltage drops below 11 volts.

I measured a Walbro 255 under load and it uses 5.1 amps at 13.5 volts. I'm sure it uses more amps than the stock pump. I've seen those charts on sites that sell the Walbro pumps, but I can't find one here.

 

Interesting chart - it kinda matches what I found with a 255lphHP pump recirculating a bucket of water with no pressure.

The 120 watt voltage booster will provide 8.9 amps at 13.5 volts, or 10 amps at 12 volts.

 

It actually sounds like a voltage booster will help me more than a new 255 Walbro. According to the chart, in order to keep 51psi, instead of 6.6a, it will need 8.0a. So a new fuel pump may not solve my issue with 11-12v.

The electronics are barely able to run without an alternator. But after a couple passes, the ECU goes into a limp mode and only allow me to idle. When I hit the throttle, it does nothing at all. I am around 10.5 volts when this happens I think.

So, what do you think about this: http://www.kennebell.net/techinfo/ge...elpumptech.pdf

I can run some sort of voltage booster through my entire system, including the ECU as long as it's not too much above 14v.

Or I can do what most serious drag racers do, convert to a 16v battery and hook up the charger in between rounds.

 

I like Bell's stuff, but the booster pump is for returnless systems ?? I think it sucks some serious amps. Think about a compromise - get a bigger battery and run the $65 booster for your pump to keep pressure up and constant, then recharge between rounds. Get a small portable generator that has a battery charger function (I have one) and clip on between rounds. Put it in the trunk and leave it connected and running! J/K

If you're going to run without an alternator, power has to come from somewhere.

I think the 16 volt systems are for those who don't use voltage boosters.

 

Oh ok. I thought it was just a DC to DC voltage booster.

With a 16v battery, some people step down the voltage for certain sensitive electrical components. It eliminates the need to boost voltage. But, I won't need any kind of booster though if I get a normal heavy 12v car battery or a 16v battery.

Yes, I know I will need to charge in between rounds. That's not a problem for me. My only problem is getting a tiny lightweight battery to power my fuel pump at 51psi. I wonder if a booster and/or a 255 walbro will allow me to keep the lightweight 12v battery I am using.

A normal FP rewire with larger wire straight from the battery may even work for me. My pressure doesn't drop that much. But it does make me run lean (approx 15:1 AFR) if I don't have the alty connected to my tiny battery.

 

I could just get this battery: http://www.titanmotorsports.com/xspolipo.html

 

The price is good....

 

Haha I may just decide to go back to a normal good 40lb 12v battery and remove the alternator. I'd have to charge between rounds for sure. The 16v guys claim they can race the car for an entire weekend without charging it once. Pretty awesome!

 

Good choice - saving a few lbs on a battery compared to making a full run without the battery going dead on you = priceless. Also, if you have to run at night and need headlights, that's gonna use up the battery even faster.

If you still think your fuel pump is shaky, the voltage boosta can keep it at 13.5 volts until your headlights go out...

When I spray two stages of nitrous, there's another 60 amps being sucked out of the battery. If you add two 12-volt 240 watt battery bottle heaters, there's another 40 amps going down the drain. Add headlights and the normal car usage, and I would need a 150-amp alternator to to keep even. Energy management can be tricky.

 

Yes, headlights are not an option without the alternator running off my lightweight battery. I've tried it, didn't work out too well. But with a nice large 12v 800cca type battery, I should be ok, even with headlights.

Those bottle heaters are definitely power hungry. Most any type of electric heater will be.

Some turbocharged guys run a mechanical driven fuel pump just to reduce their electrical load. But with the amount of electronics you need to run with your nitrous setup, you gotta keep them happy at all costs.

 

I did ditch the 12 volt bottle heaters and installed two Moroso 120 volt 360watt bottle heaters. When I come back to the pits after a run, I pull up to the trailer and connect my 2KW 120volt generator to the two pads and warm up the bottles to 1000 psi - with an extension cord. once the pressure is up, I wrap the bottles with a big insulation blanket. Much easier on the battery, plus I take a large 120 volt fan on hot days and blow that through the radiator across the engine. I keep learning better ways...

 

Gotcha. 120v bottle warmers are pretty cool. But in the winter time, I had trouble keeping my bottle temps up. So a small 12v warmer will help if you ever run into that problem.

And those air movers really help, especially to cool a front mount intercooler.


I've also seen a lot of people spray water on their radiator in the pits. But I never needed to do that myself. As soon as I'm done with my 1/4 mile pass, I kick the heater on full blast and turn my fans on. I am able to hotlap if needed, even on a 100 degree summer day. Plus, I don't like the possibility of any water dripping from my radiator as I am pulling up to the staging lanes.

An electric water pump helps a lot. You can keep the engine off and still circulate water. I don't ever have any plans to do this to my VQ35 though.

 

Here is another option for a lightweight battery.

I found that a cheap $25 lawnmower battery from Walmart only weighs 15lbs. Model number U1R-7.

Requires the same flag to post adapters.
Gets the job done for sure. Has no problem starting my car.

 

I agree. That's what I'm using.

http://forums.maxima.org/7614086-post38.html

It still starts my car no problem when it has a full charge. But lately for some reason, there is a power draw that drains the battery completely if the car sits for only 2-3 weeks.

 

LOL, that's funny. Out of all the batteries, we are using the same one.

Nice choice! Works well.

 

Looks heavy but looks may be decieving