All Motor All Motor Advanced Performance. Talk about Engine Swaps, Internal Engine work. Not your basic Y pipe and Intake Information.
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by: CARiD

rod and main bearing selection

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Dec 30, 2009 | 01:29 PM
  #1  
Weimar Ben's Avatar
Thread Starter
Helicopters! Money!!!
iTrader: (5)
 
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,816
From: Interior Alaska
rod and main bearing selection

I'm having trouble figuring out which main and rod bearings I need. I've surmised that I need Grade 3 for the 1st main, Grade 34 for the #2, Grade 3 for the 3rd main, and Grade 3 for the 4th main.






Here's some photos of my crank and block.






I wasn't able to find any info for the rod bearings.
Old Jan 1, 2010 | 12:03 PM
  #2  
Weimar Ben's Avatar
Thread Starter
Helicopters! Money!!!
iTrader: (5)
 
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,816
From: Interior Alaska
no one????
Old Jan 2, 2010 | 07:07 AM
  #3  
doublea's Avatar
Senior Member
iTrader: (7)
 
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 4,550
From: Montreal - Qc
It would depend on the tolerance there is between the crank & the journal or the rod and the crank. If your engine is getting prep at a machine shop the technician should be able to tell you that precisely, otherwise the bearing have to be stock size, this is assuming your engine is in like new condition. To be honest I wouldn't gamble on that, you could at least do the plastic gauge yourself. A quick search show that PG is still used by a lot of backyard builder. Most shop now have a sets of OD and ID micrometers but that is much expensive.

I would suggest that you contact a machine shop, they can certainly help you, I'm sure it wont cost you big money. I hope this help you a little bit.

Check this out: http://www.carcraft.com/techfaq/116_...ter/index.html
Old Jan 3, 2010 | 10:28 AM
  #4  
Weimar Ben's Avatar
Thread Starter
Helicopters! Money!!!
iTrader: (5)
 
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,816
From: Interior Alaska
Originally Posted by doublea
It would depend on the tolerance there is between the crank & the journal or the rod and the crank. If your engine is getting prep at a machine shop the technician should be able to tell you that precisely, otherwise the bearing have to be stock size, this is assuming your engine is in like new condition. To be honest I wouldn't gamble on that, you could at least do the plastic gauge yourself. A quick search show that PG is still used by a lot of backyard builder. Most shop now have a sets of OD and ID micrometers but that is much expensive.

I would suggest that you contact a machine shop, they can certainly help you, I'm sure it wont cost you big money. I hope this help you a little bit.

Check this out: http://www.carcraft.com/techfaq/116_...ter/index.html
The problem is that plastigage does me no good if I don't know the stock bearing size. Even a snap-on micrometer only has a precision of 0.001." I need a precision of 0.0001" in order to have the right clearance.

Buying a bunch of grade 0 bearings and then measuring clearances via plastigage in order to buy more bearings seems like a waste of time and money.
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
litch
4th Generation Maxima (1995-1999)
123
Jan 4, 2024 07:01 PM
user 11122324
5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003)
42
Jul 18, 2022 03:35 PM
BPuff57
Advanced Suspension, Chassis, and Braking
33
Apr 16, 2020 05:15 AM
leatherneck
4th Generation Maxima (1995-1999)
1
Sep 30, 2015 09:16 PM
Andy29
5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003)
8
Sep 29, 2015 05:32 AM




All times are GMT -7. The time now is 07:47 AM.