I have looked over numerous 00VI Swaps and I comfortable about what I need to do. From my research I want to do a Gen 4 lower, sensors, TB with 00VI.

My 1999 I30 is my daily driver. I drive 25-30k miles a year with my commute. I am a capable mechanic who does 99% of his own maintenance. I am someone who has in the past modified many of my other cars and I have another vehicle that is pretty fast. However, I can't have my I30 down for a much more than a weekend. It can't turn into one of my projects. I could perhaps go a couple days past if ran into problem getting parts.

I just got my I30 6 weeks ago. It was my mothers car and she is the original owner. I have 125k miles on it. The car has been babied since day 1 and has always had regular synthetic oil changes. The auto transmission fluid has been changed at least 2 or 3 times well. However, I do like cars that acceleration. This car wasn't my first choice but the price was right (free). If I was looking to buy Maxima/I30, I would have held out for a 5 speed. The car I really wanted was an Mitsubishi Evolution, but my wife is/was dead set against those. I was probably going to buy a WRX or STi, but that is when the I30 came along. I will probably keep this car 3 years.

My only mod right now is a Y-Pipe.

I started thinking about things I want to do for maintenance, so I was going to pull the intake and replace the Knock Sensor, Clean EGR pipe, and replace the spark plugs (original 125k one).

I started to think I really not that far off from a 00VI intake and got the ball rolling in research. I do like more power and it seems like this is the best bang for $.

Am I crazy to think I can do this in weekend if I am well prepared? I would prefer to do it in about 8 hours not some crazy marathon. I am a little worried about the EGR being rusted and I will have to figure out the air intake.

How is the drive-ability of an 00VI conversion on the factory ECM with the stock injectors? I was thinking I might do a VACFII or should I just stick with rpm switch for simplicity? I have a spare WBO2 that I could hook up at some point, but I know that the tuning and wiring/installing that isn't miraculously going to happen in that same weekend.

 

Drive-ability is same as stock if done properly. The 00VI is one of the best mod's you can do to a 4th gen/3.0DE, next to doing Y-Pipe.

 

driveability is OEM if you do it correctly. if you jank it together like a lot of the cars on here you'll have problems, so don't jank it up.

 

Do it, but as others said, do it right.

 

Have you thought about Mevi+nwp spacers? That is another option and more straightforward.

 

If you get a spare lower IM to fill/drill and a spare 4th gen IACV and do all the blockoffs/nipples/fabbing before you tear into it (have vacuum hose on hand) the swap shouldn't take more than a day's work. All the info is out there and it can run 100% stock with a little extra scream.

 

DOOO ITT!!!

from another I30 with 00vi, it gives you the torque and power youve been missing!

 

I took the plung and bought cardana24's 00VI setup. The 4th gEN LIM is already drilled and the UIM has the additional vacuum ports.

 

Thats a good buy! If i didnt have a kit already I would have bought his.

 

Well put! its a fairly easy mod....just read up on it you will love it.

 

JUst do it..

 

im still debating whether to do it or not too...wondering about the nwt spacers w/ mevi if that will make up the loss of the mevi v. 00vi. Wondering just how fast a 00vi w/jwt ecu and wsp y actually is and what numbers i should be expecting on a stock weight gxe maxima at the drag. Everybody has different numbers around here. With the setup some claim high 13s even mid 13s, others say 13s are impossible but only low or slight mid 14s can be acheived. Im only talking street tires too not dr's.

 

btw I wonder whats more reliable..mevi or 00vi

 

+1

 

Everybody has different #'s because everybody ran at different racks with different set-ups with different tires, and different weather conditions, and they were all in different cars too .

These are all questions you need to answer for yourself, and a decision should be made by you.

But, FWIW,

If I had to do it over again with the information available in this day & age, I would have gone with the 00VI.

I bought and installed my MEVI when the idea of the 00VI was taboo and no one thought it would even clear the hood.

Then, after the 00VI took off, I wasn't modding my 4th gen anymore, so I never did it, and that is the only reason why.

 

If you want the most HP you can get then go with the 00VI. Whats your goal? My brother has a 00VI in his car and ran 14.1@99 in his auto. If he was a 5sp Im sure he'd be in the 13.8-13.7 range. I've personally seen a 5sp VI run 13.6@101. When I added the JWT ecu to my VI setup I gained 4 mph and dropped 4 tenths instantly(back to back runs). Its well worth it IMO. I didnt read the whole thread but what is holding you back from going with the 00VI.

 

Track times are going to depend on driver skill as well.

 

hard to lack driver skill in an auto though

 

You would think it would be that hard of a skill, but I can't tell you how many idiots I have seen at the track...

 

I remember when he wouldnt do it and now he swears by it. I can hear him now " You got to get the ooh vee (00vi)"

 

Yeah man he kept saying I want a MEVI and I just kept saying why in the world would you go with the something thats proven to make less power?? We had that discussion like everyday until he got it lol. Now he thinks he's so much better than the 3.5's lol.

 

Why you need to do extra fab work just get the 5th gen LIM and throttle body etc isn't it pretty much staright forward if you get all the 5th gen parts? I just picked up a 4th gen after my 5th gen got totaled and already bought all the 5th gen parts thinking it would be more straight forward is this correct?

 

A full 5th Gen is the cheapest route, but it require the most wiring (I can do that but it could lead to long reliabilty issues) and the most tuning. Also many have IACV idle issues.

This is my daily driver, I drive 500-700 mile/week, I can't be fooling around idle and tuning issues. I have another vehicle that I am in the middle of tuning, one is a enough for right now. I just wanted a little faster and reliable DD.

I would rather spend a little more money on adapter plates and machining the lower (or buying one done in my case) and have something that bolts on and should be able to drive as is. I already have everything to do the swap, so I am not going to be changing my setup at this point. Its just a matter of when I have a full weekend to work on my car.

 

I see but I see buying more parts more expensive then making adapter plates. And I honestly thought wiring would be easier if everythiing matched sine it is all from the 5th gen.

 

You talkin bout ur brother VQPhantom? Those are great numbers exactly wher I wanna be, did he have weight reduction though? Well I wanna acheive those kinda numbers but still have my 5spd as a DD, meaning very little to no weight reduction. ALso just holding me back from the 00vi is that I really dunno how long install will take, this being my only car I would have to have it done in a day, also it seems complex to fit it in the car with all the altercations, wondering if ill still pass emissions, and also holding me back is getting the 00vi to actually work, also tuning it rite and making sure its runs 100% wher vi actually opens, i mean is it really reliable? Im also running 17inch g35 wheels and dont plan on changin them out. Also price wise seems like MEvi and 00vi's are selling for about the same as kits..

 

anybody have vids of the speedometer with an 00vi and jwt ecu? Anyone? Nobody posts vids of ther car with these mods. and schowe on youtube has it but its just with an 00vi and no ecu.

 

i have some but theyre not the best quality because its dark out and i cant take anymore because i sold the 00vi in february. :*( i miss it!

 

I finished up my 00VI last month, 4th Gen lower, 4th Gen Injectors and fuel Rail, TB, IACV 00VI upper, 00VI Air box. I used Stephen MAx TB and IACV adapers, Summit RPM switch.

I thought I would share a few pictures. It took me 2 weekends to do. I bypassed the coolant and wish I hadn't as it create a high idle in cold weather (I disabled the high idle). The Infiniti firewall is padded on the both sides so it made it a liitle more difficult to run the RPM switch wiring. I set the RPM switch to 4800rpm.

It definitely pulls hard at the top end and it seem like the 00VI maybe have a little better low end as well. The 5th Gen Air box is noticable quieter than the 4th gen air box.

 

Why did this take you 2 weekends? I'm still trying to figure out exactly what I need to do this the easiest possible way and make it all bolt on. Since it's my dd I need to get it all done in a few hours.

 

I did the work in early December and I worked maybe 5 hours/day due to light. I bought a used 00VI setup.

The first weekend I had the intake all bolted up. I took 2 trips to the auto parts store for vacuum lines and fuel filter. One my intake manifold bolt threads was screwed up. I took 2 trips to the hardware store and ended up using die tap to fix that bolt. ( I couldn't find a M6 130mm bolt). The 5th Gen EGR tube guide is was bulkier and lot harder to put back in than the 4th Gen one, I probably spent close to an 1 1/2 Hours installing the EGR. I had to intake off and on 4 times due to clearance issues (bend the 4th Gen intake support brackets against the firewall out of the way) and the vacuum cluster under the intake manifold needed to be bent done a little bit.

The 2nd weekend was miserable weather weekend. I spent the time on the air box, fuel filter (realized I should do that while its accessible) and wiring up the RPM switch. It rain on Saturday and was about 40degrees. I got the 5th Gen air box installed (I had to wait from the previous weekend for the plastic JB weld to dry) I took two trips to hardware store to find a the right fitting for the IACV vacuum port for 5th Gen resonator. I spent some time trying to figure how I was going to install the air box assembly, I was think I was going to use the 4th Gen one initially, one I took out the battery everything went smoothly. I spent some time trying to figure out the high idle. On that Sunday, I wired up up the RPM switch. It was 20 degrees out and lightly snowing. I pulled the cluster to find out their was a lug on the back of the 98/99 is different that I had read up. I changed up how I was going to wire everything especially when I found out how hard it was to get wiring through the double padded firewall on the I30.

If I had all the right parts and did it again, I definitely could have had the car up running in one weekend. I spent some running around to the diffferent stores. I wasn't fully prepared to do the air box.

 

Sounds like a typical All Motor forum experience.

 

What is the rpm switch for? What did you have to JB weld?
I still don't understand when people say you have to drill the 4th gen lower to accept the 5th upper. What are you drilling? A bolt hole?
I'd like to this with leaving the lower intake manifold on and leaving the fuel rail alone too.

 

The RPM switch is for the Variable Intake solenoid. It's kind of the whole point of the variable intake, it has 2 air paths for low end torque and another air path high rpm hp. If you don't hook it up, the engine will be sluggish past 5000 rpm. If leave it on all the time the engine will be sluggish in normal driving. RPM swith just switch back and for between the mode for optimum performance.

I used plastic JB weld for the 5th Gen Air box. The 5th Gen Mass Air flow Sensor has a different bolt pattern, so I had to fill those in so I didn't have any air leaks.

Many JB weld the VIAS cup, to fix a common problem. I didn't have to do this because my manifold was already converted.

The 4th Gen Lower Intake has a different bolt pattern than the 00VI upper intake. So yes you are drilling and tapping new holes. You also need to flip the 4th gen lower intake around as well.

 

So you hook up the rpm switch to a switch in the cabin? Wouldn't it make sense for this to be vacuum controlled like most cars?
Do you have pics of what you drill and tap? The upper looks to be all plastic.

What if you did a 350z or g35 upper intake manifold? Or has anyone tried extrude honing the intake manifold or just porting it?

 

The RPM switch takes a signal from the ECU wiring and automatically triggers at a set RPM. This moves the butterfly which changes the intake airflow.

The 00VI is plastic.

350IM has been done to the FWD VQ35, see http://forums.maxima.org/all-motor/6...-answered.html

 

I hooked it up to the RPM signal wire behind the dash cluster.

If you go WOT in an engine, the vacuum will be near 0. Doesn't make a difference if it is 1500 rpm or 5000 rpm. The Variable intake would not be operating in right rpm ranges that way.

No pictures. You drill and tap the lower intake manifold. Stephen Max can drill and tap the intake for you if you pick up a spare 4th gen lower. You drill the outer holes in the plastic upper 00VI intake, you can see in my pictures the bolt doesn't go through the copper holes of the plastic upper intake.

 

I understand, but my sentra with the qr25 and my mazdaspeed protege were all vacuum controlled and not electronic.

OOOO now it makes sense. ****. Gotta be careful with the plastic what if it cracks, you are screwed.

 

You don't have to drill any holes if you do the complete swap. You just have to cut and splice wires and connectors plus tune. This is what I did but this can be done a few different ways. Always happy to see the other ways it can be done. Good work dgoodhue

 

what template did you use to drill your lower im?

 

I bought my setup used from Cardana24. I believe Stephen Max drilled the lower intake for him.