Engine Work
01-17-2011, 10:19 PM
#1
Engine Work
I have a quick question..... Can the VQ30DEK or VQ35DEK can be bored out and if they can how much? Im not that into forced induction or spray... just trying to get more ponies out of her 
... Thanks for the help n time
... Thanks for the help n time
01-17-2011, 10:29 PM
#2
01-17-2011, 11:39 PM
#3
but yea it can be bored out and stroked.
Why dont you check out this guys motor
http://forums.maxima.org/general-max...na-vq35de.html
01-20-2011, 03:23 PM
#6
If I ever blow my DEK engine, I will sleeve a VQ35 block, the advantage with sleeve is it's very strong so you can bore more without affecting the strenght so you can bore it to the extreme. I think it is possible to bore the block by 20-30 thousand of a inche at and still have a strong engine over that and your playing with fire.
01-21-2011, 12:48 PM
#9
01-21-2011, 04:20 PM
#11
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At most without sleeving (VQ35), you could probably go to 97mm max. Not a big gain over 95.5mm, and I'd just stick with .20 over (96mm) if you're going to build it for anything more than NA and don't want to spend a wad on sleeving it. With sleeves, 100mm is doable. Even then, not much to be seen for power gains.
01-22-2011, 09:17 PM
#13
your probally one of the guys that take everything in life so serious that you dont have time to wipe your @ss , jeeuz take a joke GUY!
Last edited by NiZMo1o1; 01-22-2011 at 09:27 PM.
01-23-2011, 11:14 AM
#14
That said, what about a stock 3.5 bore and stroker crank. Welding additional metal to the outer circumfrence of the rod journals and re-machining for an extended stroke. They do it with V-dubs and the same shops should be able to do VQ. Thats if you cant buy a stroker crank aff the shelf, IDK. And then youd need shorter rods or custom pistons. I haven't looked into any of this.
01-23-2011, 12:24 PM
#15
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Not really. I've seen people with 3,000 posts ask how to change there oil, and your post about weight savings sounded like a legit post. My mistake, not being smart or arguing.
That said, what about a stock 3.5 bore and stroker crank. Welding additional metal to the outer circumfrence of the rod journals and re-machining for an extended stroke. They do it with V-dubs and the same shops should be able to do VQ. Thats if you cant buy a stroker crank aff the shelf, IDK. And then youd need shorter rods or custom pistons. I haven't looked into any of this.
That said, what about a stock 3.5 bore and stroker crank. Welding additional metal to the outer circumfrence of the rod journals and re-machining for an extended stroke. They do it with V-dubs and the same shops should be able to do VQ. Thats if you cant buy a stroker crank aff the shelf, IDK. And then youd need shorter rods or custom pistons. I haven't looked into any of this.
01-25-2011, 12:03 AM
#17
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Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 424
At most without sleeving (VQ35), you could probably go to 97mm max. Not a big gain over 95.5mm, and I'd just stick with .20 over (96mm) if you're going to build it for anything more than NA and don't want to spend a wad on sleeving it. With sleeves, 100mm is doable. Even then, not much to be seen for power gains.
I vote ban.
01-25-2011, 07:12 PM
#26
01-26-2011, 05:51 AM
#32
01-26-2011, 08:15 AM
#34
01-26-2011, 09:15 AM
#36
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Good luck. You know... If you're really dedicated to making big NA power, keep your car at stock height and have some custom long tube headers made by a pro fabrication shop with a nice mandrel bender. Around 1.75" diameter, 30" long primaries would be optimal for one of the "normal" 272ish cam options.... 
01-27-2011, 04:37 PM
#37
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Good luck. You know... If you're really dedicated to making big NA power, keep your car at stock height and have some custom long tube headers made by a pro fabrication shop with a nice mandrel bender. Around 1.75" diameter, 30" long primaries would be optimal for one of the "normal" 272ish cam options....
LOL, I don't think he is dedicated, but this thread was a good read
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