Quick 'n Dirty DE-K Build.........
12-18-2011, 10:41 AM
#1
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Quick 'n Dirty DE-K Build.........
Guess the HP after tune, winner will get a prize!
Just finished putting a cammed motor together for my friend, after a few minor issues typical to '00vi swaps, we got it fired up yesterday!! This entire build was put together & installed in just a few days. It idles great with no IACV, around 950, tried plugging in the 5th gen iacv backwards- THIS IS THE 3rd CAR I'VE TRIED THIS ON, shlt just doesn't work for me
This vid is it revving to approx. 4K rpms, in the coming months we will install an EU and spin it up on the rollers to 7,700 rpms & hopefully make some good numbers
Will upload in car video very soon once clutch is broken in, stock limiter for a little while though guys.
I've gotta say, it sounds sweet but really doesn't thump anywhere near what a 3.5L does with these cams, oh well- I still hate 3.5's
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lCvAFe4PSJ0
Dave's work in progress, quick run down on the current mod's for this junkyard rescue are-
*30K mile de-k
*Deluboz 3.5l s1 knock off cams w/stephen max adaptors
*HR springs & retainers, double shimmed
*Rev-up oil pump
*E-bay OBX equal length 5.5 gen headers (good)
*E-bay N1 2.5" mandrel bent catback (not good) (looking to source a used cattman 3")
*freshly rebuilt VLSD 5-MT
*ACT HD 6-puck
*Tein coilovers
QUESTIONS-
-Car is currently running on stock fuel system, will this suffice for stock limiter?
-The adapter I used for the inlet side of the rail consists of a section of hard line from a 3.5l pathfinder, it has a nasty [from the factory] kink in it, I know some of you are familiar with this bottle neck I am talking about, IIRC it's there somewhere on practically every fuel rail, but I don't think on the inlet to both banks like it is on this car. Will one of those weapon-R or similiar rail adapters be mandatory even before we go past the stock limiter?
- Think 7,700 rpms is a lucky number or what?
Just finished putting a cammed motor together for my friend, after a few minor issues typical to '00vi swaps, we got it fired up yesterday!! This entire build was put together & installed in just a few days. It idles great with no IACV, around 950, tried plugging in the 5th gen iacv backwards- THIS IS THE 3rd CAR I'VE TRIED THIS ON, shlt just doesn't work for me
This vid is it revving to approx. 4K rpms, in the coming months we will install an EU and spin it up on the rollers to 7,700 rpms & hopefully make some good numbers
Will upload in car video very soon once clutch is broken in, stock limiter for a little while though guys.I've gotta say, it sounds sweet but really doesn't thump anywhere near what a 3.5L does with these cams, oh well- I still hate 3.5's
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lCvAFe4PSJ0
Dave's work in progress, quick run down on the current mod's for this junkyard rescue are-
*30K mile de-k
*Deluboz 3.5l s1 knock off cams w/stephen max adaptors
*HR springs & retainers, double shimmed
*Rev-up oil pump
*E-bay OBX equal length 5.5 gen headers (good)
*E-bay N1 2.5" mandrel bent catback (not good) (looking to source a used cattman 3")
*freshly rebuilt VLSD 5-MT
*ACT HD 6-puck
*Tein coilovers
QUESTIONS-
-Car is currently running on stock fuel system, will this suffice for stock limiter?
-The adapter I used for the inlet side of the rail consists of a section of hard line from a 3.5l pathfinder, it has a nasty [from the factory] kink in it, I know some of you are familiar with this bottle neck I am talking about, IIRC it's there somewhere on practically every fuel rail, but I don't think on the inlet to both banks like it is on this car. Will one of those weapon-R or similiar rail adapters be mandatory even before we go past the stock limiter?
- Think 7,700 rpms is a lucky number or what?
Last edited by KRRZ350; 12-18-2011 at 10:46 AM.
12-18-2011, 01:04 PM
#4
Kind of curious on how this turns out. Been wanting to cam my DEK for some time now and install the upgraded oil pump thats been sitting in a box for years.
On the last DEK swap I ended up rewiring the harness on the 4th gen IACV and using a 5th gen IACV plug. This was on Dan Mack's car and his stuff works fine with no cold start issues and no codes, except for an IACV code once in a while.
Anyways the power depends on the dyno as to the numbers you put down, but I would say on a Dynojet248C 225~235 WHP is possible with a tune. My DEK swap put down 222 WHP @ 6600 rpm redline on a 248C and this was with stock DEK cams. The DEK makes power to redline so with this new setup it still should make power, so 7500 ~ 7700 should be a good rev limit to shoot for with the hotter cams. You might want to remove the power rod if your gonna rev that high.
If your running the DEK fuel system I recall its 280~290 CC with the 4th gen FPR? As long as the fuel pump is still good that should be enough for the power this will put down. I still have plently of fuel on my setup with stock DEK injectors and AFPR.
Watch for any kinks in the hoses as these can break the hoses over time. The fuel rail on my car has a metal fuel elbow TIG welded to the rail so the rubber fuel lines can be kept short and no kinks in the hoses.
On the last DEK swap I ended up rewiring the harness on the 4th gen IACV and using a 5th gen IACV plug. This was on Dan Mack's car and his stuff works fine with no cold start issues and no codes, except for an IACV code once in a while.
Anyways the power depends on the dyno as to the numbers you put down, but I would say on a Dynojet248C 225~235 WHP is possible with a tune. My DEK swap put down 222 WHP @ 6600 rpm redline on a 248C and this was with stock DEK cams. The DEK makes power to redline so with this new setup it still should make power, so 7500 ~ 7700 should be a good rev limit to shoot for with the hotter cams. You might want to remove the power rod if your gonna rev that high.
If your running the DEK fuel system I recall its 280~290 CC with the 4th gen FPR? As long as the fuel pump is still good that should be enough for the power this will put down. I still have plently of fuel on my setup with stock DEK injectors and AFPR.
Watch for any kinks in the hoses as these can break the hoses over time. The fuel rail on my car has a metal fuel elbow TIG welded to the rail so the rubber fuel lines can be kept short and no kinks in the hoses.
Last edited by 98SEBlackMax; 12-18-2011 at 01:07 PM.
12-18-2011, 01:16 PM
#6
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Straight from delubozparts.com, though I recently saw a gently used set on e-bay for $400
Join date: 2010
Status: p*****t
Buy a car with a manual transmission, it will solve all of your problems.
Straight from delubozparts.com, though I recently saw a gently used set on e-bay for $400
Thanks for the info, appreciate the heads up on the fuel lines, I've seen the return lines get collapsed several times & agree there.
I think you'll be surprised at what the cams + 1k rpms will do, but we'll have to wait & see.
Status: p*****t
Buy a car with a manual transmission, it will solve all of your problems.
Straight from delubozparts.com, though I recently saw a gently used set on e-bay for $400
Kind of curious on how this turns out. Been wanting to cam my DEK for some time now and install the upgraded oil pump thats been sitting in a box for years.
On the last DEK swap I ended up rewiring the harness on the 4th gen IACV and using a 5th gen IACV plug. This was on Dan Mack's car and his stuff works fine with no cold start issues and no codes, except for an IACV code once in a while.
Anyways the power depends on the dyno as to the numbers you put down, but I would say on a Dynojet248C 225~235 WHP is possible with a tune. My DEK swap put down 222 WHP @ 6600 rpm redline on a 248C and this was with stock DEK cams. The DEK makes power to redline so with this new setup it still should make power, so 7500 ~ 7700 should be a good rev limit to shoot for with the hotter cams. You might want to remove the power rod if your gonna rev that high.
If your running the DEK fuel system I recall its 280~290 CC with the 4th gen FPR? As long as the fuel pump is still good that should be enough for the power this will put down. I still have plently of fuel on my setup with stock DEK injectors and AFPR.
Watch for any kinks in the hoses as these can break the hoses over time. The fuel rail on my car has a metal fuel elbow TIG welded to the rail so the rubber fuel lines can be kept short and no kinks in the hoses.
On the last DEK swap I ended up rewiring the harness on the 4th gen IACV and using a 5th gen IACV plug. This was on Dan Mack's car and his stuff works fine with no cold start issues and no codes, except for an IACV code once in a while.
Anyways the power depends on the dyno as to the numbers you put down, but I would say on a Dynojet248C 225~235 WHP is possible with a tune. My DEK swap put down 222 WHP @ 6600 rpm redline on a 248C and this was with stock DEK cams. The DEK makes power to redline so with this new setup it still should make power, so 7500 ~ 7700 should be a good rev limit to shoot for with the hotter cams. You might want to remove the power rod if your gonna rev that high.
If your running the DEK fuel system I recall its 280~290 CC with the 4th gen FPR? As long as the fuel pump is still good that should be enough for the power this will put down. I still have plently of fuel on my setup with stock DEK injectors and AFPR.
Watch for any kinks in the hoses as these can break the hoses over time. The fuel rail on my car has a metal fuel elbow TIG welded to the rail so the rubber fuel lines can be kept short and no kinks in the hoses.
I think you'll be surprised at what the cams + 1k rpms will do, but we'll have to wait & see.
12-18-2011, 02:10 PM
#7
Guess the HP after tune, winner will get a prize!
Just finished putting a cammed motor together for my friend, after a few minor issues typical to '00vi swaps, we got it fired up yesterday!! This entire build was put together & installed in just a few days. It idles great with no IACV, around 950, tried plugging in the 5th gen iacv backwards- THIS IS THE 3rd CAR I'VE TRIED THIS ON, shlt just doesn't work for me
This vid is it revving to approx. 4K rpms, in the coming months we will install an EU and spin it up on the rollers to 7,700 rpms & hopefully make some good numbers Will upload in car video very soon once clutch is broken in, stock limiter for a little while though guys.
I've gotta say, it sounds sweet but really doesn't thump anywhere near what a 3.5L does with these cams, oh well- I still hate 3.5's
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lCvAFe4PSJ0
Dave's work in progress, quick run down on the current mod's for this junkyard rescue are-
*30K mile de-k
*Deluboz 3.5l s1 knock off cams w/stephen max adaptors
*HR springs & retainers, double shimmed
*Rev-up oil pump
*E-bay OBX equal length 5.5 gen headers (good)
*E-bay N1 2.5" mandrel bent catback (not good) (looking to source a used cattman 3")
*freshly rebuilt VLSD 5-MT
*ACT HD 6-puck
*Tein coilovers
QUESTIONS-
-Car is currently running on stock fuel system, will this suffice for stock limiter?
-The adapter I used for the inlet side of the rail consists of a section of hard line from a 3.5l pathfinder, it has a nasty [from the factory] kink in it, I know some of you are familiar with this bottle neck I am talking about, IIRC it's there somewhere on practically every fuel rail, but I don't think on the inlet to both banks like it is on this car. Will one of those weapon-R or similiar rail adapters be mandatory even before we go past the stock limiter?
- Think 7,700 rpms is a lucky number or what?
Just finished putting a cammed motor together for my friend, after a few minor issues typical to '00vi swaps, we got it fired up yesterday!! This entire build was put together & installed in just a few days. It idles great with no IACV, around 950, tried plugging in the 5th gen iacv backwards- THIS IS THE 3rd CAR I'VE TRIED THIS ON, shlt just doesn't work for me
This vid is it revving to approx. 4K rpms, in the coming months we will install an EU and spin it up on the rollers to 7,700 rpms & hopefully make some good numbers
Will upload in car video very soon once clutch is broken in, stock limiter for a little while though guys.I've gotta say, it sounds sweet but really doesn't thump anywhere near what a 3.5L does with these cams, oh well- I still hate 3.5's
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lCvAFe4PSJ0
Dave's work in progress, quick run down on the current mod's for this junkyard rescue are-
*30K mile de-k
*Deluboz 3.5l s1 knock off cams w/stephen max adaptors
*HR springs & retainers, double shimmed
*Rev-up oil pump
*E-bay OBX equal length 5.5 gen headers (good)
*E-bay N1 2.5" mandrel bent catback (not good) (looking to source a used cattman 3")
*freshly rebuilt VLSD 5-MT
*ACT HD 6-puck
*Tein coilovers
QUESTIONS-
-Car is currently running on stock fuel system, will this suffice for stock limiter?
-The adapter I used for the inlet side of the rail consists of a section of hard line from a 3.5l pathfinder, it has a nasty [from the factory] kink in it, I know some of you are familiar with this bottle neck I am talking about, IIRC it's there somewhere on practically every fuel rail, but I don't think on the inlet to both banks like it is on this car. Will one of those weapon-R or similiar rail adapters be mandatory even before we go past the stock limiter?
- Think 7,700 rpms is a lucky number or what?
I hope this was a joke, that motor will most likely put down MORE than a stock VQ35. Learn what you are talking about before opening your mouth again.
12-18-2011, 05:01 PM
#10
12-18-2011, 05:29 PM
#12
12-18-2011, 07:31 PM
#14
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3.5's have torque, sure, we all get that, was waiting for someone to say it actually. But 3.0's are bulletproof & they have this ultra smoothness to them that's hard to explain but the 3.5 lacks it, and I like that. Not my car so I don't care either way, but I personally don't like 3.5 swaps at all.
On my bone stock '96 auto (Which has some decent oil leaks) I go 10K miles (rotella T6) between changes, it has 250K on it, and it only loses a 1/4 of a quart in those 10k. It's bone stock but I wail on it & lend it out to people for 50% of those miles.
U mad I don't even look at my dipstick for several months?
Standard. No portwork, never removed the heads either or I would have done some other stuff. At some point I will at least match the 00vi upper to TB as this area is horrible & easy to address.
On my bone stock '96 auto (Which has some decent oil leaks) I go 10K miles (rotella T6) between changes, it has 250K on it, and it only loses a 1/4 of a quart in those 10k. It's bone stock but I wail on it & lend it out to people for 50% of those miles.
U mad I don't even look at my dipstick for several months?
Standard. No portwork, never removed the heads either or I would have done some other stuff. At some point I will at least match the 00vi upper to TB as this area is horrible & easy to address.
12-19-2011, 05:07 AM
#17
I will agree... dek is alot smoother engine and less prone to problems but im going to guess and say 242... ive been waiting for someone to post up a new thread like this...ive always wanted to cam my engine. And the fact hes only a state away makes it thattt much better
12-19-2011, 11:21 AM
#18
1) 238 whp ? thats it lol ? how is that more then a bolt on VQ35
2)my fully built tranny alone probably costs as much as your whole car
3)i let off in my car as soon as i get into 4th gear and still run 1-2 seconds faster then you in the 1/4 LOL me joining in 2010 means youre really really slow (moncef)
4)how much have you spent in this car ? my friend in his bone stock 01 put a vq35 and went from urnning 15.0 to a 14.0 flat with a $700 motor and a straight pipe
2)my fully built tranny alone probably costs as much as your whole car
3)i let off in my car as soon as i get into 4th gear and still run 1-2 seconds faster then you in the 1/4 LOL me joining in 2010 means youre really really slow (moncef)
4)how much have you spent in this car ? my friend in his bone stock 01 put a vq35 and went from urnning 15.0 to a 14.0 flat with a $700 motor and a straight pipe
12-19-2011, 11:32 AM
#19
but didn't he have the fed spec conv. done already??) +5hp, Ithankyou 
But this is besides the point... Point is we want dyno #'s and track times
and 7.7krpm shiftsAnd we fully understand why you like the 3.oh'z now, I <3'd mine, cept the fact it was lacking in the power dept, but not short on toughness, I highly doubt a 3.5 would have lasted as long under the same brutal conditions my 3.0 lived through like a bawsss.
Last edited by aackshun; 12-19-2011 at 11:35 AM.
12-19-2011, 04:08 PM
#21
Gotta love junkyard sleepers.
without knowing the details of all the little things, i'm loosely guessing low 230's - considering the power valve and a less than ideal intake setup will rob about 8-12 hp a piece at those revs.... and 7700 will blow that pump soon enough - 3.0's need balancing.
Is this with stock pulley/power steering/stock flywheel/sawblades?
without knowing the details of all the little things, i'm loosely guessing low 230's - considering the power valve and a less than ideal intake setup will rob about 8-12 hp a piece at those revs.... and 7700 will blow that pump soon enough - 3.0's need balancing.
Is this with stock pulley/power steering/stock flywheel/sawblades?
12-19-2011, 05:03 PM
#22
1) 238 whp ? thats it lol ? how is that more then a bolt on VQ35
2)my fully built tranny alone probably costs as much as your whole car
3)i let off in my car as soon as i get into 4th gear and still run 1-2 seconds faster then you in the 1/4 LOL me joining in 2010 means youre really really slow (moncef)
4)how much have you spent in this car ? my friend in his bone stock 01 put a vq35 and went from urnning 15.0 to a 14.0 flat with a $700 motor and a straight pipe
2)my fully built tranny alone probably costs as much as your whole car
3)i let off in my car as soon as i get into 4th gear and still run 1-2 seconds faster then you in the 1/4 LOL me joining in 2010 means youre really really slow (moncef)
4)how much have you spent in this car ? my friend in his bone stock 01 put a vq35 and went from urnning 15.0 to a 14.0 flat with a $700 motor and a straight pipe
Who are you to talk about anyone's car dude ? You struggled to break into the 12's with all this stuff done to your autotragic 6th gen
. Fully Built Level10 5AT + 11:1 Compression Ceramic coated pistons/Eagle rods + Bored block + Fully ported Heads + JWT S7 cams/ valve springs + Stage 2 Nitrous wet shot system + NGK 2 Step Colders + Zex Bottle opener + Dynotune bottle warmer + AEM Uego wideband + Custom Headers/Y pipe + RL Strut Bar/Aluminum MM's/Grounding kit + Catback Exhaust + Ported IM/Elbow + K&N CAI + NWP BOP/IM spacers + 07 Rear bumper + Nitto555R's + D2 Racing Coilovers + D/S Rotors + more Here comes the bullsh!t excuses now
12-19-2011, 06:02 PM
#23
It actually sounds decent for a ebay catback and headers..
id say it'd put down a little north of 230whp.
Interesting debulozparts are making cams again for the 3-5 ... they were no where to be found a cpl years ago .
id say it'd put down a little north of 230whp.
Interesting debulozparts are making cams again for the 3-5 ... they were no where to be found a cpl years ago .
12-20-2011, 12:38 AM
#26
Wow how did some Noobs turn this thread into a **** storm WTF?
Anyways, I still contend that 300whp is possible on the ol' 3.0, if your willing to blow the money and what not and probably have to run E85 to do it.
I did forget that Dandy did break in at 272whp IIRC with the 3.0.
Anyways, I still contend that 300whp is possible on the ol' 3.0, if your willing to blow the money and what not and probably have to run E85 to do it.
I did forget that Dandy did break in at 272whp IIRC with the 3.0.
Last edited by DrunkieTheBear; 12-20-2011 at 12:41 AM.
12-20-2011, 06:24 AM
#27
Who are you to talk about anyone's car dude ? You struggled to break into the 12's with all this stuff done to your autotragic 6th gen . Fully Built Level10 5AT + 11:1 Compression Ceramic coated pistons/Eagle rods + Bored block + Fully ported Heads + JWT S7 cams/ valve springs + Stage 2 Nitrous wet shot system + NGK 2 Step Colders + Zex Bottle opener + Dynotune bottle warmer + AEM Uego wideband + Custom Headers/Y pipe + RL Strut Bar/Aluminum MM's/Grounding kit + Catback Exhaust + Ported IM/Elbow + K&N CAI + NWP BOP/IM spacers + 07 Rear bumper + Nitto555R's + D2 Racing Coilovers + D/S Rotors + more Here comes the bullsh!t excuses now
. Fully Built Level10 5AT + 11:1 Compression Ceramic coated pistons/Eagle rods + Bored block + Fully ported Heads + JWT S7 cams/ valve springs + Stage 2 Nitrous wet shot system + NGK 2 Step Colders + Zex Bottle opener + Dynotune bottle warmer + AEM Uego wideband + Custom Headers/Y pipe + RL Strut Bar/Aluminum MM's/Grounding kit + Catback Exhaust + Ported IM/Elbow + K&N CAI + NWP BOP/IM spacers + 07 Rear bumper + Nitto555R's + D2 Racing Coilovers + D/S Rotors + more Here comes the bullsh!t excuses nowYou should read his thread, he list the mods in it.
That's just what he has in parts laying around now.
Wow how did some Noobs turn this thread into a **** storm WTF?
Anyways, I still contend that 300whp is possible on the ol' 3.0, if your willing to blow the money and what not and probably have to run E85 to do it.
I did forget that Dandy did break in at 272whp IIRC with the 3.0.
Anyways, I still contend that 300whp is possible on the ol' 3.0, if your willing to blow the money and what not and probably have to run E85 to do it.
I did forget that Dandy did break in at 272whp IIRC with the 3.0.
Don't understand what I'm sayin? Wait till this car dyno's.
To KRZZZ
Was there any bottom end work done? Or are you gonna goto 7.7k w/ a Stock Bottom End???
Also stock fuel rail for a DE-K???
Last edited by aackshun; 12-20-2011 at 06:48 AM.
12-20-2011, 11:01 AM
#28
1) 238 whp ? thats it lol ? how is that more then a bolt on VQ35
2)my fully built tranny alone probably costs as much as your whole car
3)i let off in my car as soon as i get into 4th gear and still run 1-2 seconds faster then you in the 1/4 LOL me joining in 2010 means youre really really slow (moncef)
4)how much have you spent in this car ? my friend in his bone stock 01 put a vq35 and went from urnning 15.0 to a 14.0 flat with a $700 motor and a straight pipe
2)my fully built tranny alone probably costs as much as your whole car
3)i let off in my car as soon as i get into 4th gear and still run 1-2 seconds faster then you in the 1/4 LOL me joining in 2010 means youre really really slow (moncef)
4)how much have you spent in this car ? my friend in his bone stock 01 put a vq35 and went from urnning 15.0 to a 14.0 flat with a $700 motor and a straight pipe
12-20-2011, 11:06 AM
#29
Certainly don't doubt it, but at that point in time it looks like a Honda making 300whp, and you've spent all of your money to turn your car into a Honda w/ a Nissan logo.
Don't understand what I'm sayin? Wait till this car dyno's.
To KRZZZ
Was there any bottom end work done? Or are you gonna goto 7.7k w/ a Stock Bottom End???
Also stock fuel rail for a DE-K???
Don't understand what I'm sayin? Wait till this car dyno's.
To KRZZZ
Was there any bottom end work done? Or are you gonna goto 7.7k w/ a Stock Bottom End???
Also stock fuel rail for a DE-K???
12-20-2011, 11:07 AM
#30
all im saying is its cheaper to put a vq35 in and make more power
youre here doing all this internal work and then trying to make what 25x whp ? at the most
take this money into a stock VQ35 and see the results
but good luck ... i'll be waiting for dyno sheets and track times
and as far as i go i sprayed at 50 mph cause my car gets no traction even with 275 Drag radials and still ran a 12.9 @ 113
i sprayed in first gear in my other run and blew out a plug so i let off the pedal in 4th and still ran a 13.1 @ 102 coasting so i run 2 seconds faster then most these dek swaps after letting go as soon as i shift into 4th lol
i've beaten multiple vette's / gt500 / supra's etc
on a stock block/small shot
my motor is getting built now and coming back with a x3 shot of nitrous making 300+ easily all motor 93 octane
but again this thread is not about me
again to the OP sorry if you felt offended .. but i don't see your reason to do a motor swap for a de-k when there's cheaper ways of making more power WITHOUT touching and internals on a stock vq35 ...
do what you do ... i'll be waiting on dyno pulls
youre here doing all this internal work and then trying to make what 25x whp ? at the most
take this money into a stock VQ35 and see the results
but good luck ... i'll be waiting for dyno sheets and track times
and as far as i go i sprayed at 50 mph cause my car gets no traction even with 275 Drag radials and still ran a 12.9 @ 113
i sprayed in first gear in my other run and blew out a plug so i let off the pedal in 4th and still ran a 13.1 @ 102 coasting so i run 2 seconds faster then most these dek swaps after letting go as soon as i shift into 4th lol
i've beaten multiple vette's / gt500 / supra's etc
on a stock block/small shot
my motor is getting built now and coming back with a x3 shot of nitrous making 300+ easily all motor 93 octane
but again this thread is not about me
again to the OP sorry if you felt offended .. but i don't see your reason to do a motor swap for a de-k when there's cheaper ways of making more power WITHOUT touching and internals on a stock vq35 ...
do what you do ... i'll be waiting on dyno pulls
12-20-2011, 11:15 AM
#31
my dad fked your dad
$700 STOCK vq35 > $1000+ money in a dek (maybe more cause ya'll talking about cams and all that extra work)
You REALLY need to lay off whatever you are smoking. I challenge you to compare a VQ30s dyno graph with any honda motor you like, any one you can think of and look at the tq/hp numbers and the curve. Its not even close. i dont even think an LSX ***** would call the VQ30 tq-less.
12-20-2011, 11:21 AM
#32
has it run through your tiny brain not everybody wants a VQ35? Your wasting money on your land roaming titanic, go buy a Fox body or Camaro and you will run 9s with the money you put in your car.
12-20-2011, 11:35 AM
#33
You REALLY need to lay off whatever you are smoking. I challenge you to compare a VQ30s dyno graph with any honda motor you like, any one you can think of and look at the tq/hp numbers and the curve. Its not even close. i dont even think an LSX ***** would call the VQ30 tq-less.
And yeah, we'll say that when people admit that the DE-K isn't as cracked up as the dek riders (new phrase
) believe.Now KRZZZ Likes the 3.0 for it's smooveness and lack of NVH characteristics, I have not noticed these things but it's his motivation for doing in then good, he's happy with it, whatever he's dealt with in the past he's dealt with, his decision, fine, good, great, not gonna argue with that.
It's like me when it comes to variable crap on my motors, I don't like variable ****, I will go out of my way to avoid anything variable.
Taz was just doing his usual E-juggernauting to scare off the dek riders, from the typical "OMG DEK W00TZ" comments, because there are those out there who believe with all of their might that DE-K > 3.5 in terms of N/A powah, when in the end, a DE-K is just an overweight K20 or B18
Last edited by aackshun; 12-20-2011 at 11:37 AM.
12-20-2011, 11:35 AM
#34
i realize that now ... that some people rather just pick the harder more expensive way
i don't give a rats *** about the track lol ... i'd rather have my own car over a vette ...
im a roll racer
i don't give a rats *** about the track lol ... i'd rather have my own car over a vette ...
im a roll racer
12-20-2011, 11:44 AM
#35
all im saying is its cheaper to put a vq35 in and make more power
youre here doing all this internal work and then trying to make what 25x whp ? at the most
take this money into a stock VQ35 and see the results
but good luck ... i'll be waiting for dyno sheets and track times
and as far as i go i sprayed at 50 mph cause my car gets no traction even with 275 Drag radials and still ran a 12.9 @ 113
i sprayed in first gear in my other run and blew out a plug so i let off the pedal in 4th and still ran a 13.1 @ 102 coasting so i run 2 seconds faster then most these dek swaps after letting go as soon as i shift into 4th lol
i've beaten multiple vette's / gt500 / supra's etc
on a stock block/small shot
my motor is getting built now and coming back with a x3 shot of nitrous making 300+ easily all motor 93 octane
but again this thread is not about me
again to the OP sorry if you felt offended .. but i don't see your reason to do a motor swap for a de-k when there's cheaper ways of making more power WITHOUT touching and internals on a stock vq35 ...
do what you do ... i'll be waiting on dyno pulls
youre here doing all this internal work and then trying to make what 25x whp ? at the most
take this money into a stock VQ35 and see the results
but good luck ... i'll be waiting for dyno sheets and track times
and as far as i go i sprayed at 50 mph cause my car gets no traction even with 275 Drag radials and still ran a 12.9 @ 113
i sprayed in first gear in my other run and blew out a plug so i let off the pedal in 4th and still ran a 13.1 @ 102 coasting so i run 2 seconds faster then most these dek swaps after letting go as soon as i shift into 4th lol
i've beaten multiple vette's / gt500 / supra's etc
on a stock block/small shot
my motor is getting built now and coming back with a x3 shot of nitrous making 300+ easily all motor 93 octane
but again this thread is not about me
again to the OP sorry if you felt offended .. but i don't see your reason to do a motor swap for a de-k when there's cheaper ways of making more power WITHOUT touching and internals on a stock vq35 ...
do what you do ... i'll be waiting on dyno pulls
12-20-2011, 11:47 AM
#37
12-20-2011, 11:48 AM
#38
all im saying is its cheaper to put a vq35 in and make more power
youre here doing all this internal work and then trying to make what 25x whp ? at the most
take this money into a stock VQ35 and see the results
but good luck ... i'll be waiting for dyno sheets and track times
and as far as i go i sprayed at 50 mph cause my car gets no traction even with 275 Drag radials and still ran a 12.9 @ 113
i sprayed in first gear in my other run and blew out a plug so i let off the pedal in 4th and still ran a 13.1 @ 102 coasting so i run 2 seconds faster then most these dek swaps after letting go as soon as i shift into 4th lol
i've beaten multiple vette's / gt500 / supra's etc
on a stock block/small shot
my motor is getting built now and coming back with a x3 shot of nitrous making 300+ easily all motor 93 octane
but again this thread is not about me
again to the OP sorry if you felt offended .. but i don't see your reason to do a motor swap for a de-k when there's cheaper ways of making more power WITHOUT touching and internals on a stock vq35 ...
do what you do ... i'll be waiting on dyno pulls
youre here doing all this internal work and then trying to make what 25x whp ? at the most
take this money into a stock VQ35 and see the results
but good luck ... i'll be waiting for dyno sheets and track times
and as far as i go i sprayed at 50 mph cause my car gets no traction even with 275 Drag radials and still ran a 12.9 @ 113
i sprayed in first gear in my other run and blew out a plug so i let off the pedal in 4th and still ran a 13.1 @ 102 coasting so i run 2 seconds faster then most these dek swaps after letting go as soon as i shift into 4th lol
i've beaten multiple vette's / gt500 / supra's etc
on a stock block/small shot
my motor is getting built now and coming back with a x3 shot of nitrous making 300+ easily all motor 93 octane
but again this thread is not about me
again to the OP sorry if you felt offended .. but i don't see your reason to do a motor swap for a de-k when there's cheaper ways of making more power WITHOUT touching and internals on a stock vq35 ...
do what you do ... i'll be waiting on dyno pulls
12-20-2011, 11:51 AM
#39
12-20-2011, 11:52 AM
#40
Anyways back on topic
7700rpm with Stock Bottom End??????