Rebuilding 6 speed from a 6th gen.
Subtraction of 0-0.06mm from the solder thickness when you do the crush is how you come up with the shim thickness required, NOT addition. Either that equation you listed is incorrect, or we are both misunderstanding the meaning of it. I agree with you that equation appears to indicate that you add 0.00-0.06mm to the distance M, but that is not correct, you subtract it. If that equation is from the FSM, it would not be the first time that there has been an FSM error.
To add any significant preload to a ball bearing in a transmission will significantly reduce its lifespan unless you can wear and heat that preload out (as a race application would quickly do, due to thermal expansion of the case and slight bedding in of the bearing). It is wisest to set it up with 0 preload (0 to low end of the range of allowable end play) if it is a race application/hard usage application, or the lower end of the allowable end play if it is a normal street application (depending a little bit on bearing condition and usage/reusage). I have heard of a few builders recommending a tiny (like 0.01mm) bit of preload on a brand new bearing because especially in a race application it will quickly wear that preload into a neutral or slight end play condition as the ***** of the bearing bed in slightly, but that is not what my mentor recommended when i was building race and high performance transmissions for a living).
To add any significant preload to a ball bearing in a transmission will significantly reduce its lifespan unless you can wear and heat that preload out (as a race application would quickly do, due to thermal expansion of the case and slight bedding in of the bearing). It is wisest to set it up with 0 preload (0 to low end of the range of allowable end play) if it is a race application/hard usage application, or the lower end of the allowable end play if it is a normal street application (depending a little bit on bearing condition and usage/reusage). I have heard of a few builders recommending a tiny (like 0.01mm) bit of preload on a brand new bearing because especially in a race application it will quickly wear that preload into a neutral or slight end play condition as the ***** of the bearing bed in slightly, but that is not what my mentor recommended when i was building race and high performance transmissions for a living).
Subtraction of 0-0.06mm from the solder thickness when you do the crush is how you come up with the shim thickness required, NOT addition. Either that equation you listed is incorrect, or we are both misunderstanding the meaning of it. I agree with you that equation appears to indicate that you add 0.00-0.06mm to the distance M, but that is not correct, you subtract it. If that equation is from the FSM, it would not be the first time that there has been an FSM error.
To add any significant preload to a ball bearing in a transmission will significantly reduce its lifespan unless you can wear and heat that preload out (as a race application would quickly do, due to thermal expansion of the case and slight bedding in of the bearing). It is wisest to set it up with 0 preload (0 to low end of the range of allowable end play) if it is a race application/hard usage application, or the lower end of the allowable end play if it is a normal street application (depending a little bit on bearing condition and usage/reusage). I have heard of a few builders recommending a tiny (like 0.01mm) bit of preload on a brand new bearing because especially in a race application it will quickly wear that preload into a neutral or slight end play condition as the ***** of the bearing bed in slightly, but that is not what my mentor recommended when i was building race and high performance transmissions for a living).
To add any significant preload to a ball bearing in a transmission will significantly reduce its lifespan unless you can wear and heat that preload out (as a race application would quickly do, due to thermal expansion of the case and slight bedding in of the bearing). It is wisest to set it up with 0 preload (0 to low end of the range of allowable end play) if it is a race application/hard usage application, or the lower end of the allowable end play if it is a normal street application (depending a little bit on bearing condition and usage/reusage). I have heard of a few builders recommending a tiny (like 0.01mm) bit of preload on a brand new bearing because especially in a race application it will quickly wear that preload into a neutral or slight end play condition as the ***** of the bearing bed in slightly, but that is not what my mentor recommended when i was building race and high performance transmissions for a living).
a ****-ton (0.40- 0.45mm) for the differential bearings. For the input shaft, it specifies 0.00-0.05mm of end play rather than preload.
Maybe that's why the 4th gen 5spd diff bearings fail like clockwork while the input and main bearings fare better.
It seems like you would want as close as you could get to zero end play as you could so that there's not excessive loading of the bearings, but also not loose enough to allow sliding of the rollers or ***** in the race.
That's a copy and paste from the FSM. The 4th gen FSM says the same thing, but specifies even more preload-0.06-0.11mm for the mainshaft and
a ****-ton (0.40- 0.45mm) for the differential bearings. For the input shaft, it specifies 0.00-0.05mm of end play rather than preload.
Maybe that's why the 4th gen 5spd diff bearings fail like clockwork while the input and main bearings fare better.
It seems like you would want as close as you could get to zero end play as you could so that there's not excessive loading of the bearings, but also not loose enough to allow sliding of the rollers or ***** in the race.
a ****-ton (0.40- 0.45mm) for the differential bearings. For the input shaft, it specifies 0.00-0.05mm of end play rather than preload.
Maybe that's why the 4th gen 5spd diff bearings fail like clockwork while the input and main bearings fare better.
It seems like you would want as close as you could get to zero end play as you could so that there's not excessive loading of the bearings, but also not loose enough to allow sliding of the rollers or ***** in the race.
The Diff bearings and Main shaft bearings in the 5spd in the 4th gen (and 00-01 5th gen) are tapered roller bearings, not ball bearings. tapered roller bearings require preload, in some cases LOTS of preload. Ball bearings (input shaft only in 4th gens, input AND main shaft in 6spds) require what I specified in my previous post.
i have an issue w/ my transmission too. my 6th gear pops out when i press the gas. i can hold it there but then if i put too much load, then it'll try to pop out but will stop when i release the gas.
any ideas on what it could be if its a simple fix? all my other gears are fine, no grinding or anything.
my trans is a spec-v 6 speed internals on a vq bellhousing.
any ideas on what it could be if its a simple fix? all my other gears are fine, no grinding or anything.
my trans is a spec-v 6 speed internals on a vq bellhousing.
i have an issue w/ my transmission too. my 6th gear pops out when i press the gas. i can hold it there but then if i put too much load, then it'll try to pop out but will stop when i release the gas.
any ideas on what it could be if its a simple fix? all my other gears are fine, no grinding or anything.
my trans is a spec-v 6 speed internals on a vq bellhousing.
any ideas on what it could be if its a simple fix? all my other gears are fine, no grinding or anything.
my trans is a spec-v 6 speed internals on a vq bellhousing.
i've asked others and they say it sounds like a shift fork?
it was shimmed and put back together when it was swapped in by travis(trav4011 or turbos13hatch). he did the motor swap and build for me. it worked fine with my first motor but then the motor died. so i found another vq that i purchased from paramy, and all we did was swap parts and thats when my 6th gear started popping out. didn't take anything apart w/ the trans besides pulling off one block and popping it onto the other block.
i've asked others and they say it sounds like a shift fork?
i've asked others and they say it sounds like a shift fork?
As Nealoc mentioned, tapered roller bearings and ball bearings require different types of shimming. ball bearings like play. roller bearings NEED some preload.
Shimming/preloading the tranny really isn't that difficult, but can take time. I haven't noticed any of the 3gen trans I've rebuilt ever needing a different shim than what was already in them. I think one, but that's only because I bent the shim a little bit and it increased the preload too much on the ball bearings of the input shaft.
________________________________
The 6th gear popping out thing is possibly a damaged gear or baulk ring from grinding the crap out of it by the previous owner.
another possible problem is the linkage or detent *****/springs being slightly out of whack and not allowing the shift rods to "snap" into place. If you left out one of the shift detent ***** or bent/crushed a detent spring while putting things together, this could be your problem. try pulling the detent springs out and measuring them according to the FSM. it could also be that a small piece of debris landed in the end of the shift rod 'channel', causing the rod to bottom out on the debris before the tranny is completely in gear. I would suspect you'd feel that in the shifter though..
Shimming/preloading the tranny really isn't that difficult, but can take time. I haven't noticed any of the 3gen trans I've rebuilt ever needing a different shim than what was already in them. I think one, but that's only because I bent the shim a little bit and it increased the preload too much on the ball bearings of the input shaft.
________________________________
The 6th gear popping out thing is possibly a damaged gear or baulk ring from grinding the crap out of it by the previous owner.
another possible problem is the linkage or detent *****/springs being slightly out of whack and not allowing the shift rods to "snap" into place. If you left out one of the shift detent ***** or bent/crushed a detent spring while putting things together, this could be your problem. try pulling the detent springs out and measuring them according to the FSM. it could also be that a small piece of debris landed in the end of the shift rod 'channel', causing the rod to bottom out on the debris before the tranny is completely in gear. I would suspect you'd feel that in the shifter though..
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