I posted in the 4th Gen. section, but I may get more feedback here. I recently purchased a 2001 complete engine and plan on swapping it in my 97. I have a few questions and will probably have more during the swap, so any feedback will be greatly appreciated.

1. Which throttle body/iavc combination would be the best to use with no idle issues? I know some are using the 5th gen throttle body with the 4th gen iavc, some are using the 5th gen tb and iavc.

2. Do the 5th gen injector clips still need to be spliced when swapping a complete engine?

 

1. Either scenario will do, but most say that the 4th gen IACV works more reliably and is not as finicky as the 5th gen.

2. Yes

 

If I go with the 4th gen iavc, I know I have to get the adapter. Will the iavc bolt up to anything or just lay in the engine bay?

I have read that the 3/8 barb on the adapters is too small. Is this true and should I use a 1/2 inch barb instead?

 

I believe mine is 1/2 inch... just measure the size of the 4th gen IACV one to be sure.

 

I am a little confused on removing the swirl valves. It seems like some people get an rpm switch after removing the swirl valves. I thought the rpm switch was used to activate the swirl valves.

 

No the rpm switch is for the vias.

 

Ok, thanks. Are the benefits of removing the swirl valves worth the hassle if I have a complete 2001 engine?

 

Yes, you don't have a way to control them so they will just be sitting there obstructing flow.

 

Currently in the middle of the dek swap. I decided to go with the 5th gen. throttle body and IACV. On the 4th gen. IACV, there are more connectors than on the 5th gen. Will these stay unplugged and if so, will there be a code?

 

They stay unplugged and there will be no code.

 

Thanks!

 

The swap is done!! The engine took a few cranks, but finally turned over. There are several sensors/hoses that I don't know where they go or if they were used, so any help would be greatly appreciated. I chose to use the 5th gen throttle body and iacv. Idle seems to be ok unless i give it some throttle and then it wants to die when the rpms come back down.
The following codes were pulled from the ecu using the flashing code method:
0201
0807 - evap
1302 - manifold absolute pressure solenoid valve

Does anyone know where this hose goes? It is running along with the fuel lines that come up from under the car.

 

This is a picture of my intake. The small line used to go to the throttle body, but the 5th gen tb doesn't have a port for this line. Does the small port get capped? Also, the larger hose used to go the the iacv. The 5th gen iacv doesn't have this port. Does the larger hose get capped off?

If these lines don't get capped, can you tell me where they go?

http://s399.beta.photobucket.com/use...tml?sort=3&o=1

 

What is the black thing that the yellow down arrow is pointing to?

Where does the smaller line(currently uncapped) go that the yellow up arrow is pointing to?

Were does the larger line(under the smaller line) go to that the yellow arrow pointing right go?



Right now, the line that the green arrow is pointing to is connecting the black part and the evap solenoid. I have a hose running to the intake manifold to the bottom of the evap, then over to the black part. Under the small line on the black part is a larger line that is running to a port on the rear valve cover.

The way I have it is probably wrong, so please help me get it right.

 

This sensor is one of 3 sensors that was removed from the 4th gen. It is attached to the spider on the driver side.

What is this sensor?

Is it used?

Where do the lines connect to?

 

Where does this hose connect to?

 

These two sensors are attached to the same spider that the sensor with the green connector is attached to.

What are these sensors?

Are they needed?

They have 1 or 2 ports on the bottom. Where do they go?

 

You have to use the direct links when embedding images on here.Probably goes to an evap component
That was actually the fresh air source for the vacuum gallery. The larger hose gets capped off.
EGR solenoid. Refer to my pic below.
Check valve. Refer to my pic below.
MAP and EVAP solenoids. Refer to my pic below.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/schmellyfart/8517741406/http://www.flickr.com/photos/schmellyfart/8517741406/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/schmellyfart/, on Flickr

 

The swap is finally finished. Thank you Schmellyfart for all your help!! Had to adjust the screw on the throttle body to keep rpms from dropping so low when coming to a stop. Other than that, the swap has been trouble free. The only thing left to do now is get an rpm switch and have it tuned. I have one more question related to bleeding the clutch. No matter how much I bleed the clutch, the pedal still feels very week. I pumped the pedal slowly several times before opening each bleeder valve and repeated this process many times with each bleeder valve. My dad was opening the valves and he said that nothing but fluid was coming out. I have a problem with 2nd gear grinding slightly at times. It seems to only grind when I am a more aggressive with the throttle shifting from 1st to 2nd. I don't notice it grinding when being easy with the throttle. I am thinking that the clutch is still not bled properly, causing issues with the clutch disengaging. I purchased the South Bend daily clutch kit. Anyone have any suggestions when nothing but fluid is coming out of the bleeder valves and the clutch pedal still feels weak? Would the dealer have a more efficient way of bleeding the clutch? Is it possible I could have a bad pressure plate? The transmission was also swapped with the motor mainly because I found a low mileage transmission to go with the DEK.

 

I have a Southbend Stage 2 endurance, the pedal felt really light for the first few days of driving before I got used to it. I didn't have any grinding issues, though. Try readjusting the clutch pedal.

 

Finally got a chance to take a picture of the motor in the car.




Schmelly, did you have any issues with the rpm's dipping below 500 when coming to a stop? I have raised the idle to try to fix this issue, but it still isn't quite right. Also, do you have to give your car a little gas when you first start it?


I adjusted the clutch pedal this afternoon and it seemed to help some, but 2nd gear still grinds slightly only when I quickly build the rpms before shifting to 2nd. Is it possible the clutch master cylinder is bad and could it cause this issue along with a light pedal? The master cylinder is OE and the car has 291k miles on it. I did change the slave cylinder when I replaced the motor and tranny.

 

Nope to both of those. Not when I ran a pathfinder IACV on a de-k tb or a pathfinder tb, or right now running a stock 3.0de tb with no iacv.

 

How is your iacv not throwing a code? Do you have it plugged in?

 

Oh I have a code now without the iacv, its only temporary until I can redrill my pftb.
I didn't have a code when I was running the pf iacv.

 

I am looking to swap a DE-k and 5sp Vlsd into my 1995 G20. I have all of the fitment and mechanical bits figured out and have done a bunch of reading here with regards to the electrical bits. I just figured I would post here so someone can confirm that I am thinking in the right direction.

I am looking to avoid the 5th gen NATS nonsense so I'd like to use the 4th gen ECU and harness. If I am correct this is just a matter of swapping injector plugs, use the 4th gen MAF, figuring out the IACV and a little tuning to compensate for larger injectors and slightly different cams.

Is there anything else I need to take into consideration such as using 4th gen ignition coils or anything else? The junk yard by me has plenty of 4th gens to pick at, I just want to make sure I get everything.

Thanks in advance.

 

if you are using the whole de-k all you need to do is splice in the the 5th gen clips into your 4th gen harness. you will need something to tune and activate the vi. goodluck with your swap

 

perfect, thanks for the response

 

Did you ever fix the idle issue?

Did you buy a wide-band to tune AFR, or get a piggy back?

What RPM switch did you use?

I noticed in one of your pictures, with the Evap, you left a vacuum line off. It's to the right of the throttle cables next to throttle body. Did you cap it off? I believe that line goes to the blue solenoid on top of the intake manifold on the left side.

 

Been a while since I have been on this site...sorry for not replying sooner. I have not bought a wideband or vafcII yet. I don't think I am running as rich as some of the other guys. I am getting 26mpg untuned and the car has never back fired. Instead of getting a rpm switch, I was going to use the vafcII to control the rpms. The vacuum that you say is off, are you referring to the nipple on top right behind the throttle body? If so, I connected that line to the bottom of the evap solenoid.

As far as the idle issue, I don't really have a problem with the idle. The only problem I have is when I come to a stop. The car always stumbles and sometimes dies, especially if I am coming to a stop after exiting off an interstate. I don't know if I have something unhooked, not hooked up properly, or it is because I am using 5th gen everything.

 

The ECU does a good job of handling the extra fuel from DE-K injectors in closed loop. In open loop you are running pig rich. AFR of about 10-11.

 

where did you get the intake with two vacuum ports?

 

Not sure which vacuum ports you are referring to but the intake is from a 2001.

 

I have a question im gonna do the DEK swap on my 99 max. I wanted to know if the ecu I get with the 2001 3.0 be a problem since mine is a 5 speed? Thanks

 

Use your 99 ecu, leave the 01 ecu alone. I dont like being an ******* but a lot of this is covered in the stickies. Ive dont 3 swaps, one 3.5, one hybrid(3.0 heads, 3.5 bottom) and 00vi, and that was from reading. Its not hard at all.

 

This. Read, read, read. Then once you think you're finished reading, read some more.