I had a nice long post all written and spell-checked when my browser crashed I guess you'll get the short(er) version instead.

I had to drive to Florida for a week-long project for work. About half-way back home, my engine coughed, sputtered, and died. It ran dry and seized. I had already planned a vacation to start as soon as I got back, but I was planning to go to the lake instead of working on my car. I decided that this was a perfect opportunity to do my swap though. I started my swap about 3 years ago when I bought a low mileage VQ35 from a fellow org member. Over the next year I bought the majority of the parts that I needed to complete the swap. During that time, I got so busy at work that I kinda forgot about it.

I've re-read all of the info concerning the swap along with some new info that I didn't have at the time. I'm sure that I'm still missing some parts or info that I'd need. This is a list of the parts that I either have or will be buying in the next few days. I have just under a week to finish and her get back on the road.

04 maxima - auto, full harness --> 98 maxima - manual
02 pftb w/ iacv
OBX v1 headers/y (currently installed)
emanage ultimate (mostly installed - haven't connected the ignition yet)
LM-1 wideband (need new sensor)
NWP vias block-off plate
stephenmax pftb plate, 3.0 iacv plate, and cam spacers
Fuelab 52501 fpr (think I have the right nipples, but no gauge yet)
Spec Stage 2+ clutch (SN443H) w/ release bearing and pilot bushing
upper and lower oil pan gaskets
exhaust manifold gaskets (still need)
both belts
radiator hoses (still need)
3.5 thermostat
high pressure power steering hose (mine is leaking, already fixed the others)
used drive pulley (rubber looks good, haven't checked the one on the engine)
gray rtv, assembly lube, anti-seize (still need the last 2)
brake cleaner, penetrating oil, rags
Technafit SS clutch line
urethane/delrin LCA bushings
NWP torque link (already installed)
motor mounts (still need at least front and rear)
used Walbro fuel pump (most likely wont install)

I'm sure that I forgot something on that list, please let me know if there is anything else you would recommend or any tips that sped up your install. On to my questions:

1. Can I use the IACV from the pftb or would it be simpler to just cap the vacuum lines and use the 3.0?

2. Do I need a vacuum on my fpr and what size/type of T-fitting do I need to setup the fuel return and would anyone sell it locally? (I'm thinking a barbed brass fitting from Napa with 3 worm gear clamps would work.)

3. I think dropping the engine from the bottom with the exhaust attached would save me some time. How high do I have to get the car if I decide to go that route? Would my cherry picker be able to handle that and would some furniture movers help to move the engine (the caster wheel type)?

4. What do I do with the EVAP system, does that connect to the 3.5 at all? If not, can I eliminate it? (bad idea?)

5. My 3.5 is from an auto maxima, I read one post that said I would need the upper oil pan from my car or the bellhousing won't line up (5spd). I'd like to eliminate as much work as possible. Do I need to swap the upper pans? (planning to use the 3.5 front crank sensor)

I have more questions, but I think those are the most important right now. This ended up being about as long as my last attempt at a new thread. Hope you made it this far, if you did, I thank you.

 

If you use a 3.5 tstat, you need the 3.5 lower rad hose. 4th gen tstat, retain stock rad hoses. I'd only do the fuel pump if yours is failing.

1.Yes you can use the IACV on the PFTB, I think thats easier than retrofitting the 4th gen IACV.

2.I wouldn't bother with the afpr and stuff. I am running a return setup on the 3.5 rail. More info http://forums.maxima.org/8748499-post4.html and http://forums.maxima.org/7060128-post2.html

3. Can't help there, I pulled mine from the top.

4. Just mark all of the connections of the evap system on your 3.0 and reconnect accordingly on the 3.5. I have my evap system running on my 3.5 swap.

5.I hear as long as you have the 3.5 crank sensor you will be fine. I used a 3.0 oil pain and crank sensor.

 

Thanks schmelly, lots of good info. Did you go to Nissan for most of your gaskets and did you replace everything or just stuff that was damaged? I normally use Felpro since they're down the road at Advance/Napa instead of going across town to the dealer.

1. For the pf iacv, I would use the 6-pin connector from an 02 pathfinder wired the same as the 6-pin on the 3.0, right? I've only seen one thread talking about that and I think that is what they were suggesting. I'm also going to assume that the connectors for the fast idle soleniods are not used. (wasn't sure what those were called until I found my Haynes picture book while digging out the rest of my parts)

2. Did you have to drill new mounting holes for the dek fpr to mount correctly? If I didn't already have the afpr, I would do that. I will try this route first before spending more money on new parts.

3. I figure at the very least, if I can get it on the ground, it'll be much easier to drop the tranny and rear header.

4. Looking at my 04 FSM, I see what you're talking about for the evap. Looks like most of this will make sense once I have the engines sitting next to each other. Thanks for reminding me to label stuff. I have disconnected most of the sensors, but didn't label anything.

If I don't have any problems pulling the axles tomorrow (I usually do), I would like to have the engine and tranny dropped by the end of the day. That would put me ahead of schedule.

 

I got all of my gaskets at the dealer. I didn't want to have to pull the engine apart because I cheaped out on a gasket. One gasket I didn't replace initially was the front coolant log gasket, discovered it was leaking and had to replace it after the fact. The other two I reused without any issues so far.

1.Yes the fast idle solenoids are removed. Only real difference it makes is my car would sometimes die doing tight u-turns at low speeds. You can modify the OEM connector and use that if you don't want to wire the new one in. Page 7

2. I think mine is offset because I didn't have a dremel to make slots out of the original holes. It appears that you can also use the 4th gen fpr as well from the other guys thread. Making the return line is easy if the fuel lines are still bolted to your fuel rail.

3. Yeah I lowered the engine to make the tranny easier to pull off and then pulled the engine from the top with the car sitting on jack stands.

4. Yeah, you basically just need to find a place to mount the purge control valve and a hose barb in the intake manifold.

 

U have to use it.old crank sensor 3.5 read does not read the old flywheelthat will nerd and it doesn't line up with old oil pan.

U need 3.0 crank sensor 3.5 sensor need to modifiedit doesn't line with it oil pan and it doesn't read ur flywheel

 

Drop it out the bottom. A cherry picker will pick the car up high enough if u start with the crossmember almost on the ground. I leave the crossmember on the engine and sit the motor on a floor jack and lift the car off. Then slide out the engine. Takes about 45 minutes if u know what to disconect and have no stuck bolts.

 

Thanks for the replies everybody. This is taking me much longer than I thought it would, which worries me, I only have until Wednesday to get back on the road (or quit my job, I was planning to give them my 2-weeks when I got back... )

Finally got all but one part yesterday. I still need a fuel pressure gauge, I could only find 0-15psi gauges locally. While I was taking the new engine apart, I found all of the metal brackets and hoses on the front were bent. I also found a nice big hole in the front valve cover. It was on the front right corner and is only cosmetic as far as I can tell, but I went and bought a new one anyway ($40 at dealer ). I wanted to use the oil cooler, but the black pipe is ruined. I don't really want to spend any more money right now, but I will still have the parts if I feel like adding it later.

I was hoping to have the engine out before the end of the weekend and I almost made it. I have everything ready for the old engine to come out, I just ran out of daylight and my shop lights suck. I found a 1000lb furniture dolly at Lowes (Kobalt - $33) for me to drop the engine and tranny onto. I also finished prepping the VQ35 today. The inner and outer timing covers are off and all of the old gasket material is off. Now I just need to deal with the calcium and dirt all over the exposed aluminum. I have some old etching aluminum wheel cleaner that I'll try and probably get some CLR to take care of the rest.

I have a few pics on my Flickr if you want to see it coming together (just the VQ35, nothing interesting in the car). I'll see if I can take some pics when I drop the engine and tranny tomorrow. I decided to try it with the alternator, ps pump, and front and y-pipe still on. I also have a few crappy phone pics of my recently finished LED taillights and front turn signals. (They're in the 'Exterior' set.)

Finally, my engine is out! That was the most stressed out I've been this entire swap. My adrenaline was still pumping after a long cold shower. I was able to pull the motor, trans, exhaust, and cross-member from the bottom, but it did not go as planned. I forgot to disconnect the shifter support rod and didn't realize it until the car was up in the air and the engine on the ground. I looked up the cost of a new rod and the surrounding parts and they were less than $100. So I grabbed my grinder and cut the rod in half. Then I had to get the car high enough to slide the engine out while sitting on my dolly. I had to have my brother lift the rotor and control arm to get it out. My exhaust tip is now more oval than round and my cat back is sitting higher than it was before...

Take my advice and pull the exhuast, drop the cross-member, take off the upper intake manifold and alternator, then pull the engine from the top. Comparing the amount of time saved to stress gained, it was not worth the small amount of time saved. Until I have a lift, I will only be pulling from the top from now on (if I even feel the need to do this again ). I did take several pictures which are in my Flickr (see my sig) if you want to check it out.

 

Trust me. The bottom is much easier when u remember to disconect everything.

 

How did you get past the cherry picker? I had to swing it around to the passenger's side as much as I could and pull the engine out the driver's side. I was barely able to clear my lower control arm and right cherry picker leg while slightly smashing my exhaust. I do have a bunch of tools in my trunk for work which causes my back end to sag, so that probably didn't help.

Why is the top more difficult? From what I have read, that is how most people do it. I only really pulled it from the bottom so I didn't have to pull my OBX v1 rear headers which are a pain to deal with. I figure I'll drop engine down past the motor mounts then lift the car up enough to install the exhaust. I have an engine leveler to work with as well.

 

Bottom is the way to go. I dropped the motor for my part out using the bottom method, no engine hoist. Just two jacks and four jack stands and a lot of creative thinking lol

 

Well I only have one big jack and 2 jack stands. However it gets done, I'll just be happy to be done. After my 10th trip to the parts stores, I think I finally have the engine back together, so I'll be putting it back in tomorrow.

 

Finally got everything finished, at least enough to try and start it. I can crank all day, but no start. I managed to mount both crank sensors incorrectly (one was backwards, the other was too far out), but I fixed them. I have the fuel pressure set to 42 psi. I had it set too low and then way too high before getting to 42. I pulled a plug and I smell fuel. Not sure how to check for spark. All of my grounds are good, I'll probably add a few just for kicks. After all of this, I checked the codes and got these:

0205 - IACV not connected yet
0304 - knock sensor not connected
1008 - evap not completely connected yet

When I started, I had a 0401 and 0407. After fixing both crank sensors those went away. The oil pressure light was on for a while, but is gone now. Could it just need a night to sit with new fluids? The fuel in the tank is about 3-4 weeks old (I didn't plug the fuel lines and they've been disconnected at least 2 weeks). Did I jump timing and how would I check? I'm stumped, any ideas?

Edit: I should probably add that I have an emu connected, but haven't connected it to the laptop yet. Before I started, I turned off the switch that I had set for the injector tuning map.

Edit 2: I also did not change the spark plugs. I didn't think about it until today just after the parts stores were closed. I plan to change those tomorrow.

 

Great job so far.. You should really do your first startup with the stock ECU.

Get another spark plug. Take out one coil. Push the plug into the business end of the coil. Lay the threads of the plug onto a good ground like the VTC solenoid. Weigh it down or tape it down so the threads are touching the ground. Get someone else to crank the engine while you stare at the plug. You'll know if you have spark.

 

this. congrats on the swap!

 

Was the EU installed and working before the swap?

 

I tried to tested the coils with some new plugs, but no one was home to crank for me and it was hard to see from inside the car. I may not have had a good ground, but I didn't see any spark. I tested with a couple 3.5 coils and 3.0 coils.

Yes the eu has been working fine for a while now. I think I installed it around 2-3 months ago, except for the ignition harness. Just the injectors and sensors are connected right now. About a month ago I had it almost tuned to my liking when my used Bosch wideband sensor quit working (left it turned on all weekend ).

I did some more testing Thursday morning and found a couple interesting things. The 0201 code is coming up now, but no other ignition codes. My cam sensor has oil in the connector. I cleaned it out with some electronics cleaner and after some more testing and cranking there was a small amound of oil still in it. I'm not sure how it got there in the first place and that might have just been some residue from before. I tested my grounds and sensor resistances too. The cam sensor is ~1600ohm and the crank ref is 570ohm @ 85-90* F (it's too hot down here ). I need to look up which pins to test on the crank pos. I got the engine to sputter (I think) for a second while adjusting the position of the crank pos sensor. I'm using the 04 upper oil pan from an automatic car and I drilled and ground out a hole in the bellhousing where the 3.5 sensor was. As far as I can tell, it is centered on the timing ring and ~1/8" from the ring. I plan to take some pictures in the morning. No teeth were damaged when I put the flywheel in and I haven't noticed anything different.

When I tested my grounds I got over 10ohm between the battery and body ground. I moved my body screw to a better hole and now its back under 1ohm. The engine block to body ground is 11+ohm, so I need to clean that. The main harness grounds (on intake manifold) to battery is 11+ohm too (cleaned and re-seated with no change). I didn't sand between the trans and engine so I'll need to add a cable for that (didn't check the resistance there yet). The most interesting thing is the grounds for both the crank and cam sensors show ~35ohm between the connector and the main harness ground or the battery, but other sensors on the same section show <2ohm (iirc ). I'm going to guess that is most likely my problem. I remember that when I was replacing the injector connectors on the rear sub-harness; the split loom, shielding, and ground wire for the ckrs had all been damaged. I removed the damaged shielding (4-6"), then cut, soldered, and heat-shrinked the ground wire. The ground was really corroded (I didn't clean it very well) and I'm sure that would affect that specific ground, but not the others . I'll do some more testing after I find my roll of 14g wire.

Keep the suggestions coming, renting a car is getting expensive.

 

So you're using an 04 upper oil pan with which crank sensor?

 

3.0 crank sensor

Edit: just tested that sensor and it looks like it is good. I sometimes get 5v even after I've pulled away from some metal. If I pull it away faster, it works correctly every time. So it may just be me, not the sensor. It also works like it should when it is mounted in the trans. I tested the ground between the engine and trans and it is less than 1ohm. The ground between the sub-harness and the main harness ground is still showing 25+ohm. I'm going to add an extra ground wire to the sub-harness and engine block to see what that does. I will also get my battery replaced or charged. It is showing just over 11.5 volts right now.

Edit 2: read the FSM again and I was testing the sensor correctly

 

Just to update, still not cranking and the CEL codes haven't changed. I had the battery charged and tested and it is good. The starter also tested good. I tapped the ground wire for the crank ref sensor and grounded it to the manifold with the rest of the harness grounds and now all of the grounds on the car are less than 1ohm. I think my crank pos sensor is not as centered as I thought, but is still within 2-3 millimeters of center.

Mechanic at Advance Auto suggested I get a Noid Light to check the injectors. I tested with the light on all 3 front injector connectors and only got a light 3 times. After each light, I would hear a pop from the engine. I removed the eu and jumpered the wire at the eu harness connectors with no change.

Would the crank sensors keep the ECU from sending fuel too? The large solid red wire on the old harness is connected to the small solid red wire on the new connectors correct?

 

How come you didn't use the 3.5 crank sensor with the oil pan?

I personally haven't had any luck using a 3.0 crank sensor on a 3.5 oil pan.

 

When I was putting everything together, I decided not to cut up my harness any more than neccesary. I forgot that I even had it. I'll have to figure out where it got tossed in the garage. After trying to mount the 3.0 sensor, I think that using the 3.5 sensor makes a lot more sense. Am I right to assume that one or both crank sensors not working would keep me from getting both spark and fuel?

 

Yes you are correct. I think that the sensors themselves are fine, they just aren't reading flywheel due to the placement on the oil pan.

 

IT LIVES!!!!

Thanks Schmelly, the 3.5 sensor was the way to go. Is there supposed to be a rubber spacer under the sensor? I had to use a long bolt and nut to offset the sensor from the bellhousing. Still have some codes, but its just for stuff that I haven't plugged in yet. I still need to replaced the spark plugs below the intake, plug in the IACV and evap, then fine tune it, but it feels strong (haven't left the driveway yet). I do have a lot of vibration and my hood won't close. I think the vibration is just the NWP torque link, (kinda) old gas, and an engine that has been sitting for too long. I've added a half can of Seafoam to the gas. I assume I would get a code if one of my coils or injectors was acting up or wired wrong. Are nylon spacers with longer bolts on the hood brackets the best way to gain hood clearance?

 

So close and yet, so far . I finally have the car running and the IACV connected. It idles like it should... except for the lopey idle. The exhaust slaps my hand as it comes out. The RPMs are steady, I hear all of the injectors, no misfires, no exhaust smoke, and it starts quickly, but doesn't have enough power to go up the driveway. It stalls as soon as I put a load on it, but I can rev past 3k RPM in neutral. I still don't have any new codes. I finished replacing the spark plugs with no change. I haven't tested the coils yet. The fuel pressure maintains ~43psi all the time (until I turn the car off, then it drops to 0psi). I guess I should test the cyl compression too.

If it isn't a bad coil or compression, what should I look at next? Did my timing chain skip a tooth or three? What's the easiest(quickest) way to check if I have jumped timing?

 

Not sure about the spacer under the sensor, I'm using a 3.0 pan and sensor.
Yes, nylon spacers were recommended to me when I was looking into it a year or two ago.

I'd make sure your maf wiring is good, at the sensor and the EU. My car did the same thing when I was swapping ECU's, I jostled the MAF wire loose and it would stall when I put a load on it.

 

I'll check that again. I was thinking that might have been it until I started testing coils. I'm not getting spark on cyl 2, 3, and 4. I swapped coils between 6 and 4 and the coils are good. Cyl 2 and 3 should mean I skipped a tooth, but what about cyl 4? I'm on my way back to the house with a timing light to see if I can figure that out.

 

Update?

 

I guess it has been a while. I put in my 2 weeks at the beginning of July, boss got me a rental and sent me back out of town until my last day so I didn't have much time to look at it. When I checked the timing, it was showing around 30deg BTDC. I tried pulling the tensioner off and rotating the crank back to get it to jump back a tooth, but that didn't work. After a week, I decided to take it to a mechanic and have them reset the chain. Took them a week to get it in the shop and a couple days to fix it. They replaced the main tensioner and confirmed that the timing had jumped a tooth or two on the crank, but it didn't stay fixed. I got it back on Thursday and it jumped again before I even made it home. Cyl 4 is working now with the EU connected, I guess my jumper wire didn't work. So I know for sure that it's the timing now, but it cost $700 in labor to find out. So now I get to fix it again myself. I think I might try a new crank gear or timing chain. They both have at least 250k miles on them and I really don't want to fix it again. I have driven the max and everything else seems to be working good. Right now I have a 4cyl 4.5gen Maxima.

 

Finally got all but one part last night. I still need an energy stress evaluate, I could only find 0-15psi indicators regionally. While I was getting the new motor apart, I discovered all of the steel supports and lines on the top side were curved. I also discovered an awesome big opening in the top side device protects.

 

I gotta say something about ^^ guy.
I don't know if he posts drunk or what, but I've read all 5 of his posts..and, wow..just wow.

Noob, please back read and check the posts date so your not bumping old threads. Luckily this wasn't an old one, but what are you talking about??
Are you attempting this same project, or just trolling?

 

Fakie, looks more like he doesn't speak english fluently and is using Google Translate to interact with the best damn community for Maxima owners. After reading through it a 2nd time, it looks a hell of a lot like post #7 paragraph #2. I thought he was adding a useful data point (another person with a broken vc), but is probably just trolling for post count.

<rant> Bumping an old thread is fine IMO if you can add to the discussion. I haven't seen many people talking about broken valve covers but a lot of people do have bent water lines and the valve covers are plastic and right next to those bent lines. Since the stickies are updated once every couple years, I think it's important to have as many data points and questions answered as possible (which should then be added to the stickies). If we want people to continue to do projects like this, then they need to be more aware of what could happen. There are a lot of old threads with great information that I can't find anymore because they weren't added to the stickies and deleted because of their age. </rant>

Screw the people that bump old threads to ask dumb questions that are answered in the stickies though...