Front flex line between door and car
Front flex line between door and car
Question, I want to run nice fat speaker wire from the front door to my crossovers in the cabin, but I'm not sure how to get it into that black flex line. The car side unscrews, but I couldn't push it out. Anyone manage this one or did you all punch your own holes the way Tony did. Seems to work, but I thought I'd be a tard and do it the hard way. Thanks
The car side is actually a bolt holding a connector together. You can run your own wires through it by pulling the connector out, requires some dissasembly of the lower dash and a lot of standing on your head, and drilling a hole through an unused portion of that connector. You should have room, I have a loaded 2001 SE and was able to find enough space. Although, I ran a thinner wire. Hope this helps.
Originally posted by releasedtruth
Arrrgh, nothings ever easy is it?
Arrrgh, nothings ever easy is it?
I'm not sure what year they started doing this, but on the front doors of my Max there is a white plastic bulk head connector. You can see the bolt that goes through the rubber hood and holds the two halves together. I think this is the screw that you were refering to. You really can't simply run the wires through the tube like in the good old days (progress, huh).
That's why some guys put an extra set of holes on their car doors.
That's why some guys put an extra set of holes on their car doors.
I just screwed with it for a while, got bitten by 100 mosquitos, got the West nile virus, and all that, only to find out that in order to punch a hole where I'd want to, I'd need the flex attachment for my dremel. I bet I can borrow one, but I'm goin that route, then wrap the wire and flex line together. Should be golden and if not, I'll let the mosquitos have me
I got a hold of a dremel flex shaft and I hope that will help make the hole. Anyone have advice on how to make the hole I need to get the speaker wire into the cabin? I'm going to wrap it in loom and silicone the ends, but I need that hole into the cabin
Well, good luck, but I actually found it way easier to just drill the hole behind the kick panel area. And I heard a rumor that 2K2s are a little different and easier to run wires through. But since I don't have one, who knows?
Tony
Here's a pic of my door jamb:
This is a picture of the passenger side door. The door is on the right and the car is on the left. The red arrows point to the stock wiring harness that comes from the car and goes into the door. Unfortunately, the connector (upper red arrow) is a multi-pin connector and cannot be tapped into at all for the purposes of running your own speaker wires into the door. I drilled holes into the car (deep behind the kick panels) and into the door and ran my speaker wire through them (yellow arrow). Why did Nissan have to make such a difficult job out of what should have been so easy?
Tony
Here's a pic of my door jamb:
This is a picture of the passenger side door. The door is on the right and the car is on the left. The red arrows point to the stock wiring harness that comes from the car and goes into the door. Unfortunately, the connector (upper red arrow) is a multi-pin connector and cannot be tapped into at all for the purposes of running your own speaker wires into the door. I drilled holes into the car (deep behind the kick panels) and into the door and ran my speaker wire through them (yellow arrow). Why did Nissan have to make such a difficult job out of what should have been so easy?
Nice work Tony, really. That's about what I'm thinking about. I haven't tried to wedge the drill or dremel in behind the kick panels, it felt as though there was a lot of tight spaces to get out to the outside, but I think I'll give it try, whats the worst that could happen?
Originally posted by releasedtruth
Nice work Tony, really. That's about what I'm thinking about. I haven't tried to wedge the drill or dremel in behind the kick panels, it felt as though there was a lot of tight spaces to get out to the outside, but I think I'll give it try, whats the worst that could happen?
Nice work Tony, really. That's about what I'm thinking about. I haven't tried to wedge the drill or dremel in behind the kick panels, it felt as though there was a lot of tight spaces to get out to the outside, but I think I'll give it try, whats the worst that could happen?
Tony
I just did the same thing you did. I spent all day on just the front speakers. Damn rings I made out of particle board kept not fitting right, but eventually I got it. The holes work fine, but most of my steel/wood bits didn't even dent the sidewall, a new bit and it was golden. I'll post pics when my trunk is done. Thanks
youll need a hook tool to help pry the boot from the frame of the door and car body. And also small wire snake to get the wire through the door boot. I was able to do this when i ran lines for my power door locks to the drivers door, but those took up whatever room was left. So instead I just wrapped all three speaker wires up in some electrical tape and some large size heat shrink and just followed the contour of the stock boot with my new boot and used 3 zip ties to hold both together
my way = no new holes to be drilled and its totally stealth.
Ant
my way = no new holes to be drilled and its totally stealth.
Ant
Originally posted by ny96max
youll need a hook tool to help pry the boot from the frame of the door and car body. And also small wire snake to get the wire through the door boot. I was able to do this when i ran lines for my power door locks to the drivers door, but those took up whatever room was left. So instead I just wrapped all three speaker wires up in some electrical tape and some large size heat shrink and just followed the contour of the stock boot with my new boot and used 3 zip ties to hold both together
my way = no new holes to be drilled and its totally stealth.
Ant
youll need a hook tool to help pry the boot from the frame of the door and car body. And also small wire snake to get the wire through the door boot. I was able to do this when i ran lines for my power door locks to the drivers door, but those took up whatever room was left. So instead I just wrapped all three speaker wires up in some electrical tape and some large size heat shrink and just followed the contour of the stock boot with my new boot and used 3 zip ties to hold both together
my way = no new holes to be drilled and its totally stealth.
Ant
Tony
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