My local circuit city doesnt have a pac adapter so will this work from crutchfield for adding a sub to my bose system?

 

Order the PAC kit from http://www.tune-town.com/. Just call them up and order the AOEM-NIS2 kit (for 1995+).

 

Whats the problem with using a standar line convertor off the rear speakers if I tap into the speaker wires before they reach the amp? Arent the amps right on the rear speakers? Thanks pac sells a decent looking line level convertor. I just hate to spend 50 bucks on an adapter if all I need is the 20 dollar one. Thanks

 

You can use PAC's SNI-35 to tap the signal BEFORE it enters the rear amp, but you will sacrifice output level and sound quality because it wasn't made to deal with Bose. Bose HUs use pre-amp voltages that range from 0.7v up to 9.0v. With the pre-amp voltage varying that much, you will notice degradation in quality as the sound gets louder. With the AOEM-NIS2 kit, the included OEM-1 was specifically designed to handle the higher input voltages (above 4.5v), whereas the SNI-35 is designed to handle higher wattage signals. I had the SNI-35 before I installed the AOEM-NIS2 (and now I have the ROEM-NIS2 kit). The quality at normal listening levels is barely noticable, but as you increase volumes, it becomes more evident between the two.

If all you are running is a sub, and you don't really ever blast you Bose unit (volumes from 0 to 15), then you'll be ok with the SNI-35. Otherwise, spend the extra $$$ and get the AOEM-NIS2.

 

Studman;

Why couldn't you just tap into the subwoofer output with a SNI-35? Wouldn't that work? That is the signal that I am wanting? Also, why would you tap in before the amp instead of after the amp?

1 last question. My JBL amp has speaker level inputs. Could I just use them instead of the PAC?

Thanks in advance!

 

I am running a sub off the BOSE HU, and I tapped the signal using a Line Output Converter like the SNI-35. I was even dumber and used the LOC to tap the signal from the wires leading from the BOSE amp to the bose sub. I tried to go the cheap route, and I regret it. Like Studman says, the output isn't what it should be, even with the gain on my amp cranked (yikes! -don't worry, I turned it back down immediately )

While the sub is definitely better than the stock BOSE, I think it will be what I was expecting once I get the AOEM-NIS2 that I ordered (along with my new setup )

My advice, don't go the cheap route on this one, go ahead and layout the money for what has been proven to work, that way you're not paying for it twice, like I am.

 

It will work, but read on to see why I wouldn't do it. I had it that way when I first started with the SNI-35. I quickly changed it. The line-level signal from the Bose HU isn't what the SNI-35 inputs are expecting, so even with the SNI-35 turned all the way up, the volume of the subs is going to be less than you are expecting. I have my SNI-35 sitting in my dresser drawer, because it didn't perform like I expected it to do.

Nope. Keep reading for the reason.

You want to tap a full-range signal. The only full range signal in the car is between the HU and the amp. When the signal arrives at the amp, it goes into an equalizer. Then from there it enters a crossover. And finally it gets to the amplifier circuit. Once it passes through the amplifier circuit, the signal is routed the to the speakers. This being said, the SUB circuit NEVER GETS AMPLIFIED. The sub has a built-in amplifier in it. So the signal you're tapping between the sub and the amp is actually nothing more than a EQ/Crossovered signal. That means that your crossover adjustment on your JBL amp is basically useless, and you can't fine tune the sound. Think of it like this. Take all your coins out of your money jar (full range signal). Then sort the coins by type (crossover). Then sort them by year (EQ). Now, imagine that only the pennies are used (sub signal). As you can see, the pennies (sub signal) don't account for all your change (full range signal). And if you hook it up after the amp, all your JBL will see is pennies, not the full change.

No. You'll overwork the Bose amp. It would burn out in a matter of a week to 2 months. This question can be verified by many Bose stereo repair shops, as this is a common problem. As far as I know, the PAC AOEM-NIS2 is the only kit that is GUARANTEED not to cause harm to the Bose system. Not even the SNI-35 offers that guarantee.

No problem. If you have more questions, check out the FAQ section. I posted a reply there that leads to alot of Bose-related threads here on the .org. If they are STILL unanswered, reply to this thread. Good luck, and hopefully we can convince you to take MetaOrbit's advice (as well as mine) and spend the extra $$$ to get the AOEM-NIS2 kit. Plus, if you end up replacing the Bose speakers/amp later, you won't need any extra parts.

 

Studman,
Where did you locate the PAC AOEM-NIS2? Did you place it behind the HU, or did you put it in the trunk just before the Bose amp?

 

It is located behind the HU. It's between the manual shifter linkage and the ECU. It fits nicely without any movement or noises from banging around.

 

BTW - Studman,

I don't know if anyone's done this, but I want to thank you personally for all the info you've collected, repeated numerous times, and explained regarding the 2k2 BOSE audio system. Your wiring color chart is absolutely invaluable!

I appreciate it very much.

Thanks,

John

 

alright fellas well of course I went the cheapo si-35 route. I have a diamond audio cm3 sub with the jbl 300.1 amp pushing 300 watts rms...let me tell you that we have the same sub in my friends car with a 150 watt alpine amp, but he has alpine head unit and his hits harder and much cleaner. Do not I repeat do not waste your money with the line output convertor I had already bought mine after all these replies. I think my next step is to go to a new head unit anyways for a truly clean signal. Sigh..live and learn I guess.

 

Why a new head unit and not the Good PAC Adapter. In another thread, it is $59 shipped. I bought a used SNI-35 on ebay for $9 shipped before I read those posts as well. Is your setup ok sounding or does it sound like total crap? I am just wondering if I could use it as a temporary thing.

 

Its not terrible but you can tell the bose system is blocking some freq or something. Sometimes the sub sounds ok, other times like crap. If I'm taking out the dash to put that adapter in I will spend the extra money and get a head unit I really like. I honestly wouldnt waste your time installing the si-35 its a pain to put in, and for what you get I give it a thumbs down. I think a huge prb is it provides to distorted of a signal to your amp.

 

You can use it as a temporary thing - it will sound better than the bose, but like I said in the other thread (I think I said it at least), it sounds much better now that I'm pulling the signal using the AOEM-NIS2.

 

Do you see yourself changing the head unit or just adding an amp or something later. I like out on the PAC kit that it give a 4 channel out. Makes it nice if I ever wanted some mids up front.

 

Well, in all of my cars I've always kept the stock headunit (I like the controls and you can't beat the stealth factor) and added additional amps, subs, and component sets.

I don't have any immediate plans to change the head unit (at least with regards to quality). If I do change it, it would be for a unit with a flip-out LCD screen, DVD player, and Navigation system. I just can't see laying out $1800 for that right now.

I think my next step will likely be another amp and a component set. And if I ever get comfortable with shelling out $1800 for a head unit, then I'll do that.

 

Are you sure that it will hurt the Bose amp if you tap into the rear speaker wire after the amp. I have had this setup with my Kenwood amp for over 2 1/2 years and had no problems at all. I just upgraded to a 300watt Alpine amp last weekend and I talked to the guy at the local specialized car audio, not bestbuy or circuit city. This place only sells higher end car audio. ie. Alpine, JL Audio, Kickers. He said it is not a problem if you hook it up before or after the amp.

I've read posts from both views here on the Org, some say it will hurt the Bose system some say it won't. I know I haven't had any problems to this day and ended up hooking up my new Alpine the same way as my Kenwood.

 

What wires did they tap into? Did they do it before the amp or by the headunit?

 

My Kenwood and Alpine both had line-level inputs built in the amp. I tapped in at the rear speaker. This is the wire that is going from the amp to the rear speaker. I can't remember what the positive and negative wires were, but for the 4th Generation Max, if you look closely at the speaker you will see a + next to the Positve terminal.

Like I said, it's been 2 1/2 years and haven't had any problems.

 

You can tap the signal with a line-level-convertor anywhere you want without any harm. What will burn up the Bose amp is connecting the speaker-level-signal from the Bose amp directly to the speaker-level-input of the aftermarket amp. The resistance of the aftermarket amp's inputs make the Bose amp see a 4 ohm resistance, which it's not used to (Bose is 1 ohm). So the Bose amp works harder to "push" the signal to the speaker, causing the internals to overheat and burn up.

Car Stereo Help has confirmed this issue and posted basically the same answer on their website. Considering that they repair Bose systems for a living, and the fact that I know a great deal about Bose (not just Nissan Bose either), that you could consider this information valid.