What are the ways to wire a Subwoofer, or any speaker for that matter, to give a 2 Ohm Load? Would a DVC Sub with Dual 4 Ohm Coils be wireable to 2 Ohm Load? If so, would one channel @ 250 RMS push both coils or only one? I have read about wiring in series and in parallel, but I only have one channel at 250 Watts. I want a 2 Ohm Load, but I don't have 2 x 250 RMS. Let me know what kind of Resistance Specs to look for in a subwoofer to achieve this. Thanks.

 

this might help...

 

What are the ways to wire a Subwoofer, or any speaker for that matter, to give a 2 Ohm Load?

Parallel wiring will yield a 2 ohm load. See posted diagram.

Would a DVC Sub with Dual 4 Ohm Coils be wireable to 2 Ohm Load?

Yes. As per diagram, pretend that each voice coil on your sub represents (1) subwoofer. You would wire both +'s together and then to the amp and both -'s together and then to the amp.

If so, would one channel @ 250 RMS push both coils or only one?

It will push both coils. You CAN NOT hook only one coil up to the amp and have the sub work. Both coils MUST be used. If your amplifier is stable with a 2 ohm MONO load, then you will be fine with parallel wiring. If not, you will have to wire for 8 ohm which will yield the sum of the amplifier's stereo 4 ohm load (i.e. if the amplifier does 100 x 2 RMS into 4 ohms, it will do 200 x 1 into an 8 ohm mono load)

I have read about wiring in series and in parallel, but I only have one channel at 250 Watts. I want a 2 Ohm Load, but I don't have 2 x 250 RMS. Let me know what kind of Resistance Specs to look for in a subwoofer to achieve this. Thanks.

Again, if your amp is stable at 2 ohm mono (do NOT confuse this with 2 ohm stereo), then a (1) dual 4 ohm subwoofer would be a good bet for you.

 

Thank you guys. This is very helpful. Look for my post soon detailing the installation of my false floor/amp rack setup.

 

Hope your false floor project turns out better than mine. I never actually got mine completed, but it was so heavy and taking up so much trunk space (vertical trunkspace) I eventually just removed it.

Good luck. Look forward to seeing pictures.

 

Too bad your false floor didn't work out. Check mine out and tell me what you think. http://maxima.cardomain.com/id/azn2dmax just cut and paste. Let me know if you need any help. Still have my spare too.

 

Looks VERY clean. I definitely like it. Although, I think I might have put a plex window in the middle of the "lid" for the center section.

My former false floor had a piano hinge that allowed me to lift up the floor and have access to my spare as well. Your floor looks exactly how I wish I would have finished mine.

 

My floor is complete. I only have to install the carpet and my component speakers. My schedule over the next couple of weeks is pretty hectic, so it still might be a while. I too installed a piano hinge that allows me to lift the entire amp rack up to access my spare tire. I bought a piece of clear 3/8" Plexiglass to install over the top of the amp rack space as well. I'm currently considering how I might vent the rack, because I've made everything "air-tight". The carpet I ordered doesn't exactly match the factory color of the sides. The company I ordered if from is sending me complete color samples of what they offer. I'm looking at matching the dark charcoal color as closely as I can.

Do you think I should install black carpet, or a differnt shade of gray, in the recessed space under the plexi? I like the way yours look 2AZN2DMAX, but I'm thinking of setting it off a little more. Your opinions are appreciated. Thanks.

 

Well, to answer your question about cooling, what I would do is install a relay to the turn on lead and connect 4 fans to it. 2 on one side of the rack pushing air in and 2 on the other side pulling it out. These fans should be as large as you can allow for as there is no such thing as cooling overkill.

As far as the plex goes, be aware that (obviously) that 3/8" plexi will be FLEXING when you put anything on top of it. What I would do (and this is just me) is to use wood for the lid and just cut out some holes in whatever shape to show the install off through the wood. Then just back the wood with your plexi. That way you're only talking about small portions of the lid being subject to the "flex" and it also adds a nice effect if you make the holes strategic and/or unique (read: artsy).

Anyway, those are just my suggestions. Hope they help.