I finally got my TS-A1795's installed all the way around and I was initially unimpressed by the bass response. I have given the speakers about 2 weeks to break in and I am still unimpressed. Two of my friends factory systems have more bass!!!!!!! And they don't have the premium sound in their cars or anything. It pisses me off that I spent $200 to get terrible bass response. Now I know what my problem is, my power supply. I'm running the speakers off of my HU and it just isn't supplying enough juice. Can anyone recommend a good set of 6.75"s that have a RMS around 20-25? Or some speakers that give good bass with only 20-30 watts constant. Thanks a bunch. Oh, and by the way, does anyone wanna buy 4 TSA-1795's used for 2 weeks?

 

By the way, I'm on a budget of about $200 for the speakers and buying an amp at this point is kinda outta the question.

 

my advice is save up for the amp and subs you said u wanted. I have the RF 250 (400watts)$170 Ebay, and 2 10". any sub will blow away the bass of those speakers. so if boom is what you want then go with subs.

 

All of the good speakers are designed for lots of power. If you aren't gonna get more power, then get speakers with a high sensitivity (93db @ 1w/1m or higher). But if you are willing to spend another $200, just get an amp. See if you can find a used high-end 4-channel amp for $200. Or you could definitly get a good 2-channel amp to power the fronts for that.

 

that you have all the speakers in phase with each other. This is an easy thing to confuse especially when you're in a hurry,(excited to hear your new speakers) and one of the most common mistakes made. If one or more speakers is out of phase, then the bass wave produced by that speaker will cancel the bass wave from the other speaker. This only happens at frequencies whose wavelength is equal to or greater than the distance between the speakers. All the higher frequencies will sound ok, although this also causes imaging problems. Make sure you have the positive lead on the radio/deck connected to the positive terminal on each of the speakers. Good luck...

 

All the speakers should be hooked up correctly considering I used a factory harness for the CD player from Crutchfield, the factory speaker harness from crutchfield, and the speaker wire from Pioneer. The bass is definately present, it's just lower than my bud's factory systems.
What I need is a speaker made out of paper pulp with a high sensitivity. An amp is out of the question because money is really tight right now and is going to be for a while. So does anyone know of some decent paper speakers?

 

Well it was a beautiful 50 degrees outside today, so I decided to wash the max and play around with my stereo. After re-reading the manual concerning bass issues, I realized that I had all of the audio options like loudness, front image enhancer, and fader either turned off or in normal position. I remember messing around with these options when I had my old speakers but the speakers couldn't handle it so I turned everything off and when I disconnected my battery to disconnect that stupid factory Clarion amp in the trunk, all of my options were reset anyways. So today I messed around with the options and I am happy to say that I found the bass that I was looking for. First, I turned the equalizer to "Super Bass". Second, I set the loudness to "High", which sends more power to the lower and higher frequencies at lower volumes. Third, I set the "FIE" "Front Image Enhancer", to send only frequencies below 160 or 1600hz (I can't remember) to the rear speakers. And finally I faded the sound to the rear 5 points out of a 15 point scale. Now the car rocks and I don't have to go to eardrum bleeding levels to get the bass I want. On a 30 point volume scale, I used to listen to it at 20, now I listen to it at 12.

My only problem now is that all the damn bass keeps disconnecting my speaker wires from the speakers, which is a big pain in the ***. Oh well, time to take the door panels off again.

 

now just imagine that along with a coupple subs in the trunk

 

 

Don't feel bad. The depth of options on even the lowest priced decks can be amazing. I bought a Premier P1R a couple of months ago, have read the manual (150 pages or so) several times, and am still discovering features I didn't know I had. Glad it worked out for you. Good luck on your connections. Hope I didn't insult you in bringing up the phase issue. It's just that I've been installing audio as a hobby for longer than most of the folks on this board have been alive, and have made this mistake a few times myself. It's always the simple things that bite you. After you've had your door panel off a few times you start to feel like a pit crew.

 

No prob on the phase issue, I hadn't even thought about that. I might rewire the whole car this summer because the wire quality seems to be a little lacking. Maybe it's time to replace that 7 year old wire. Any good suggestions on a decent replacement speaker wire?

 

Any good suggestions on a decent replacement speaker wire? [/I][/QUOTE]

I used 16 gauge monster cable which I bought off the spool at the home audio department of Circuit City. This is EXACTLY the same speaker cable (check the monster part numbers printed on the side of the wire) they sell packaged in the Car Stereo section at nearly twice the price per foot, and you can buy exactly as much as you need. The wire is 16 guage, has many strands (more pliable) and has a black jacket which is easier to hide. Also check local electronics supply houses or PartExpress et.al. for buys on wire. Don't buy into the hype about speaker cable as big as your wrist being better. 12-18 gauge is plenty big in a car since lengths seldom exceed 20 feet, so resistance capacitance/inductance issues are negligible. Double blind listening tests routinely confirm this. Focus on buying a good quality wire with high copper content. More important is a good connection; if there is loss or noise and distortion in the wiring it is far more likely from a poor connection or corrosion than from any difference in the wire. Remember the cardinal rule of car audio: If you can't hear a difference, there is no difference. Good luck.

 

wouldn't it not make any sound/sound REALLY terrible anyways? Since with styock wires it was hard to guess which is which (not the average white stripe for positive)I would guess then check to see if it worked...Since all the speakers worked I figured I got all the connections right. I don't notice any bad quality anyways, wouldn't it be REALLY bad if I reversed them? I've done it on home theater and get only static when reversed.

PJ

 

Heyyyyy....we have the same head unit. how do you like it. Are you running it in pro or std. mode? how much did u pay for it? Do you know if there is a way to control sub-leveel in that deck. Thanks, Anton

 

Heyyyyy....we have the same head unit. how do you like it. Are you running it in pro or std. mode? how much did u pay for it? Do you know if there is a way to control sub-leveel in that deck. Thanks, Anton [/I][/QUOTE]

I absolutely love this deck. For years I have tried to achieve studio quality sound in a car, and finally have it. This deck sounds so sweet. The main reason I bought the unit was the time alignment feature, but have come to appreciate the auto EQ even more. The capability of this deck effectively eliminates most of the compromises that result from the car audio environment. I also really like the DBE feature. The other thing that sold me on the deck was the elegant simplicity that all eq and processing is done in the digital domain with the only d/a conversion at the preamp output. I constantly hear nuance in music material I've heard a hundred times on some really good previous systems. I run pro mode with 75 watts off of each of the Memphis ST3004's channels, biamping each of my Focal tweeters and mids. I run 600watts to the IDQ12 in an aperiodic enclosure. I have yet to hear distortion at any level that is not painful to me. I control the sub in pro mode with the level for that output. Crossover point selection is critical. I paid $550. My only regret is that the P9R is due out this spring to replace it, although I frankly cannot imagine it sounding any better. BTW, enjoy reading your posts. Informative, positive, an obvious music lover.