Dimming
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Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 522
From: Queens
Dimming
People always talk about adding huge caps on the amplifier power line....thats not going to stop dimming..Only a new alternator will stop dimming cause the 12 volt system is too weak for the cap to maintain 12 volts..thats y even with big caps a lot of people still see dimming...Try doing the following: add a 6800 microfarad polarized electrolytic capacitor on any device that is effected by current drain (headlights, dome lights, etc).... add the cap in parallel with the devices (charge the cap first of course), positive lead on the power wire feeding the device, and grounding the other lead...its easier for the headlight or whatever to grab electrons from a cap that is right behind the device than relying on a huge cap by the amps which is on the other side of the electrical system.....try it out, i bet you it will work.
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Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 522
From: Queens
also.... a 5 farad cap, at 13 volts stores about 844 Joules of energy...if ur amp were to supply 1000 watts for 1 second, the cap would need to supply atleast 1000 Joules...clearly the 5 farad cap cannot handle that, thats y there is still dimming...caps are never fully drained anyway, which makes the matter even worse.....caps suck..lol...the only thing caps are good for is storing moderate amounts of charge for smaller devices...and for filtering applications in circuitry....caps should have never have been made for the car stereo consumer...they are useless and over-priced
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Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 522
From: Queens
Originally Posted by nismos14
well i like ur hypothesis, it makes alot of sense. so i tend to agree with theories that make sense than speculation that doesnt 
one of my engineering professors also agrees
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Posts: 8
Finally some one who has had vision to see an alternative solution, but who would want to crawl all over the car to connect capacitors all over the car?
The easiest solution it to parallel an additional battery in the rear of the vehicle. A sealed no matiance battery is the way to go here. On most vehicles there are additional factory access holes that are pluged the the trunk.
Pull the plug, put in a vent pipe to keep water out of the trunk area, install a way to lock the battery down, so it dose not go flying anywhere in driving or accident. and creat a box around it wiht an access lid to replace the battery every few years. Make sure it is pretty air tight, don't want the nasty hydrogen release smell in the trunk from the battery charging.
The second battery in parrallel with the primary will hold the load for the amp on the heavy beat notes, and be charged by the alternator, in between beats, or when you do not have the volume up so loud.
Another reason the second battery in the back end is so good, it acts a lot like a capacitor in knocking down engin noise and adding an additional negative (ground) return point. Just make sure they have the same potental.
When upgrading any stero system the first thing to do anyways is to upgrade the negative pole of the battery to the chassy of the vehicle. Paralleled 0AWG to the body to replace the 10AWG that they typically use.
The easiest solution it to parallel an additional battery in the rear of the vehicle. A sealed no matiance battery is the way to go here. On most vehicles there are additional factory access holes that are pluged the the trunk.
Pull the plug, put in a vent pipe to keep water out of the trunk area, install a way to lock the battery down, so it dose not go flying anywhere in driving or accident. and creat a box around it wiht an access lid to replace the battery every few years. Make sure it is pretty air tight, don't want the nasty hydrogen release smell in the trunk from the battery charging.
The second battery in parrallel with the primary will hold the load for the amp on the heavy beat notes, and be charged by the alternator, in between beats, or when you do not have the volume up so loud.
Another reason the second battery in the back end is so good, it acts a lot like a capacitor in knocking down engin noise and adding an additional negative (ground) return point. Just make sure they have the same potental.
When upgrading any stero system the first thing to do anyways is to upgrade the negative pole of the battery to the chassy of the vehicle. Paralleled 0AWG to the body to replace the 10AWG that they typically use.
Originally Posted by ochsrus
Finally some one who has had vision to see an alternative solution, but who would want to crawl all over the car to connect capacitors all over the car?
The easiest solution it to parallel an additional battery in the rear of the vehicle. A sealed no matiance battery is the way to go here. On most vehicles there are additional factory access holes that are pluged the the trunk.
Pull the plug, put in a vent pipe to keep water out of the trunk area, install a way to lock the battery down, so it dose not go flying anywhere in driving or accident. and creat a box around it wiht an access lid to replace the battery every few years. Make sure it is pretty air tight, don't want the nasty hydrogen release smell in the trunk from the battery charging.
The second battery in parrallel with the primary will hold the load for the amp on the heavy beat notes, and be charged by the alternator, in between beats, or when you do not have the volume up so loud.
Another reason the second battery in the back end is so good, it acts a lot like a capacitor in knocking down engin noise and adding an additional negative (ground) return point. Just make sure they have the same potental.
When upgrading any stero system the first thing to do anyways is to upgrade the negative pole of the battery to the chassy of the vehicle. Paralleled 0AWG to the body to replace the 10AWG that they typically use.
The easiest solution it to parallel an additional battery in the rear of the vehicle. A sealed no matiance battery is the way to go here. On most vehicles there are additional factory access holes that are pluged the the trunk.
Pull the plug, put in a vent pipe to keep water out of the trunk area, install a way to lock the battery down, so it dose not go flying anywhere in driving or accident. and creat a box around it wiht an access lid to replace the battery every few years. Make sure it is pretty air tight, don't want the nasty hydrogen release smell in the trunk from the battery charging.
The second battery in parrallel with the primary will hold the load for the amp on the heavy beat notes, and be charged by the alternator, in between beats, or when you do not have the volume up so loud.
Another reason the second battery in the back end is so good, it acts a lot like a capacitor in knocking down engin noise and adding an additional negative (ground) return point. Just make sure they have the same potental.
When upgrading any stero system the first thing to do anyways is to upgrade the negative pole of the battery to the chassy of the vehicle. Paralleled 0AWG to the body to replace the 10AWG that they typically use.
--Don
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 522
From: Queens
Originally Posted by ochsrus
Finally some one who has had vision to see an alternative solution, but who would want to crawl all over the car to connect capacitors all over the car?
The easiest solution it to parallel an additional battery in the rear of the vehicle. A sealed no matiance battery is the way to go here. On most vehicles there are additional factory access holes that are pluged the the trunk.
Pull the plug, put in a vent pipe to keep water out of the trunk area, install a way to lock the battery down, so it dose not go flying anywhere in driving or accident. and creat a box around it wiht an access lid to replace the battery every few years. Make sure it is pretty air tight, don't want the nasty hydrogen release smell in the trunk from the battery charging.
The second battery in parrallel with the primary will hold the load for the amp on the heavy beat notes, and be charged by the alternator, in between beats, or when you do not have the volume up so loud.
Another reason the second battery in the back end is so good, it acts a lot like a capacitor in knocking down engin noise and adding an additional negative (ground) return point. Just make sure they have the same potental.
When upgrading any stero system the first thing to do anyways is to upgrade the negative pole of the battery to the chassy of the vehicle. Paralleled 0AWG to the body to replace the 10AWG that they typically use.
The easiest solution it to parallel an additional battery in the rear of the vehicle. A sealed no matiance battery is the way to go here. On most vehicles there are additional factory access holes that are pluged the the trunk.
Pull the plug, put in a vent pipe to keep water out of the trunk area, install a way to lock the battery down, so it dose not go flying anywhere in driving or accident. and creat a box around it wiht an access lid to replace the battery every few years. Make sure it is pretty air tight, don't want the nasty hydrogen release smell in the trunk from the battery charging.
The second battery in parrallel with the primary will hold the load for the amp on the heavy beat notes, and be charged by the alternator, in between beats, or when you do not have the volume up so loud.
Another reason the second battery in the back end is so good, it acts a lot like a capacitor in knocking down engin noise and adding an additional negative (ground) return point. Just make sure they have the same potental.
When upgrading any stero system the first thing to do anyways is to upgrade the negative pole of the battery to the chassy of the vehicle. Paralleled 0AWG to the body to replace the 10AWG that they typically use.
eh.....i wouldnt wanna do that...too much can go wrong that i cant go into detail here..id rather just install a high output alternator and a yellow top, and problems will be solved withh less hassle
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 522
From: Queens
Originally Posted by Pearl96Max
Then the second thing to do would be replace your alternator in a few days. Surprisingly it would be dead.
--Don
--Don
that's right... DAMN those rectifier diodes to hell!!
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