Has any one ever done box's for their door speakers in a 4th Gen? Are their any rigid inserts that can be installed? I have seen the XTC foam baffles but I would bet because they are not rigid they dont help to tighten up the sound any?

Any help is appreciated!

 

The XTC baffles are more for water protection than acoustics. But I had a pair in a previous installation that I filled with polyfill stuffing anyway. I don't think it made much of a difference, but you could change that.

Take the foam baffles and build them up with a bit of fiberglass to stiffen them, then stuff, and you ought to get more effect. Let me know- I'm curious to know how much it helps.

 

Nope. Don't go enclosing speakers that are meant to play free-air, or close to it. I modeled an enclosure for my MB Quarts to get more midbass out of them. The only way to get good results was with a 14.5L ported enclosure for each one. That is a large enclosure for a door (the size of a bookshelf speaker) and wasn't worth messing with. If you use a sealed enclosure that's too small, you'll have no usable output below about 200Hz. So just leave them free-air in the doors.

 

Keep it free air but there are many things which can be done to better the SQ. Dampening material can be applied copiously and acoustic foam or equivalent, my favorite is a foam mattress pad from wal-mart, can be put in the door.

 

I made some for my 3rd gen.. the problem will be getting something strong enough not to flex and vibrate, and still making it light enough to open the door easily.
my fiberglass pods weigh about 15-20lb each, on top of my already heavily damped door.. (That's DAMPED, not DAMPENED- get it right! ;-) the door feels about as heavy as a camaro door at first, but you quickly get used to it. shuts with a nice "thud" too.

as for sound quality, I notice a big difference in low end at lower volumes.. it gets mushy at high volumes because the enclosure flexes too much. if I shove against the door and brace it with my hands so it doesn't flex as much, it sounds 10x better.

Sooo, I'm going to make some more (or maybe kickpanels) this summer and brace the bejeezus out of them and see what happens.

 

I know the correct spelling but I believe it to me more apropriate to spell using the "common spelling" It sounds like your resin is damp. 20 lbs and flexing? Find someone to build them right. My pods which vent into the door probably weigh less than 2 lbs and my door doesn't flex. Of course I only have 125 watts going to a pair of DA 6 1/2's. And it sounds tight when turned up, not mushy.

 

i actually just did this like 2 days ago i just built a mold on the back bottom side out of card board (easiest to cover) and just fiberglassed the inside of it sounds sweet so far, can really tell the difference with the components i sit it up with

 

Can you give more detail on the construction?

 

No, best as is

-----Original Message-----
From: Matt pelto [mailto:Matchou@home.com]
Sent: Thursday, March 15, 2001 9:54 PM
To: cartech@harman.com
Subject: InfinitySystems.com: CarAudio Questions regarding Infinity Car
North American Products


A message from:
Matt pelto
Email:
Matchou@home.com
Message:
Hello,

I have installed in my 1998 Maxima front doors some Infinity Kappa 60.2cs
speperates. My question is would the woofers benifit from a small sealed
or vented enclosure constructed behind them in the doors? If so can you
please provide me with the T/S paramiters of the woofer? Or are they
designed to "free air"?

Thanks!
Matt



----------

WOW thats technical! LOL

I think I'll do the foam and dampening material think

Keep it simple...

Thanks for the help audio dudes!!!

 

XTC baffles are really only good for weatherproofing the back of the speaker.....

 

1. your pods are vented into the door, not a 1/2 cu ft sealed enclosure- completely different from what I did.

2. the fiberglass is about 1/4" to 1/2" think in most places, thus the weight. the reason it flexes is from the air pressure. it's mostly the back panel, since it's 35" long and 8" wide.
all I've got to do is 'glass a few small braces into the next design. if I felt like cutting this set apart and restretching vinyl over them, I could easily fix these. the fun part is it's another $40 worth of vinyl and 3 hours of spray adhesive and heat guns.

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Matt93GXE
[B]

1. your pods are vented into the door, not a 1/2 cu ft sealed enclosure- completely different from what I did.

my pods are wayyy off of spec i needed about 0.3cu.ft., and at the time i was like "eh screw it ,it'll work". so i'm starting all over going to use as much room as possible behind the door panel keeping it close as possible to stock look, i'll probably come up short again but it'll be a lot closer to spec.

 

Yes, mine are way different. And from your comment it seems mine sound much better. Remember, most car mids are made for doors, average doors. They are not made for sealed enclosures. THe sealed enclosure may increase power hanling but the time and effort won't significantly help sound quality. But still, 20 lbs of resin and glass? A 3/4 inch thick MDF enclosure that size wouldn't be 20 lbs. My door may be 10-15 lbs heavier than stock but that is because of damping material and the weight of the 2 6 1/2 drivers. Also, don't forget that glass doesn't gain much strength by using only glass and resin. It is almost as strong to have the same thickness walls with only one layer glass/resin on each side of polyurethane foam. I used the instant foam in a can to stiffen my pods. Then just cut and sanded out the excess on the inner portion of the pods. Your pod or enclosure should not flex from the force of the moving driver, regardless of sound volume.

 

Once again, this board has saved much headache. I have been ponering over building a sealed enclosure for my Rockford 6.5 FNX's that I'm in the process of building pods for, for my 93GXE. Now that I see that it's not worth the trouble, I'll just stick w/ free air and seal the door from destructive interference, and may try the Wal-mart mattress pad.

 

The mattress pad will hold in place pretty well below the steel reinforcement beam. But above that you will most likely want an adhesive to keep it in place. Some have said that the foam pad will hold water but it hasn't been a problem. It seams to drain and dry out nearly as quick as a stock door.

 

Will the WalMart mattress pad get wet when it rains and hold water in the door after that? I'm a little concerned about it rusting the door out. The doors are designed to drain water out the bottom . . .

 

Yes, it will get wet. But mine seems to drain fine through the factory holes in the bottom of the doors. And, my doors have paint on the interior, even if just primer. Because they do get wet regarless of adding the pad. There are open cell foam pads that are designed for wet use. www.foamorder.com/

 

Actually, building sealed enclosures in doors are not that difficult (assuming you have the space). I have a writeup on a set I installed in my '93 Probe (no pix of the build),but, I do have a pic of the door while still working on them on my Probe ref page if anyone is interested. They work great and smoothed out my front midbass.

http://www.win.net/audtatious/audio/