What gauge wire?/Caps needed?
What gauge wire?/Caps needed?
I have 2 Alpine MRP-M350 amps and an Audiobahn A4601Q.
The Alpines each run 350W x 1 (RMS @ 2ohms)
and the Audiobahn runs 75W x 4 (RMS @ 4 ohms)
So total = 1000w RMS.
All 3 will be located in the trunk. (Im 99% sure distance matters).
I want to know what kind of power setup I would need for this?
Will I be needing a 2 or 1/0 or maybe even a 4 gauge kit for these?
Will a stock battery/alternator be enough to run all of these?
If not...... will an Optima Yellow/Blue top battery be enough?
and finally .... will a 1 farad Cap (or Two) help out any of the configurations above in any significant way?
Thx for taking the time to read..... just want to make sure b4 I start purchasing power equipment.
The Alpines each run 350W x 1 (RMS @ 2ohms)
and the Audiobahn runs 75W x 4 (RMS @ 4 ohms)
So total = 1000w RMS.
All 3 will be located in the trunk. (Im 99% sure distance matters).
I want to know what kind of power setup I would need for this?
Will I be needing a 2 or 1/0 or maybe even a 4 gauge kit for these?
Will a stock battery/alternator be enough to run all of these?
If not...... will an Optima Yellow/Blue top battery be enough?
and finally .... will a 1 farad Cap (or Two) help out any of the configurations above in any significant way?
Thx for taking the time to read..... just want to make sure b4 I start purchasing power equipment.
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102 amps current. I'd round it up to 110. I think that is 2 gauge by Iasca standards but it might be a tad larger. I go larger to be safe. Stock battery and alt are fine if it is a daily driver. Battery is a load on the alternator even when fully charged. The larger the battery the larger the load for the alt, that's a bad thing. Decide on caps if you get everything properly wired and have dimming lights during drum beats and short duration bass hits in electronic music.
Originally Posted by jmax
102 amps current. I'd round it up to 110. I think that is 2 gauge by Iasca standards but it might be a tad larger. I go larger to be safe. Stock battery and alt are fine if it is a daily driver. Battery is a load on the alternator even when fully charged. The larger the battery the larger the load for the alt, that's a bad thing. Decide on caps if you get everything properly wired and have dimming lights during drum beats and short duration bass hits in electronic music.
how do you figure that it's 102 amps? if P=VI then 1000=V(102), Voltage = 9.8
if you figure ur voltage is 13volts, then the current drawn by a 1000 watt load is 77 amps.
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700 watts of class D is 80% efficient, 875 watts input power.
300 watts class AB, that will never be used by a mid, tweet or even midbass is 50% efficient, 600 watts input for full output.
600 watts + 875 watts = 1475 watts from the alternator. Industry standard alternator voltage = 14.4 volts. Divide 1475 watts by 14.4 volts and you have 102 amps, at full output power in a worst case scenario.
http://jbl.com/car/support/AUTOMEDIA_CEA2006.pdf
300 watts class AB, that will never be used by a mid, tweet or even midbass is 50% efficient, 600 watts input for full output.
600 watts + 875 watts = 1475 watts from the alternator. Industry standard alternator voltage = 14.4 volts. Divide 1475 watts by 14.4 volts and you have 102 amps, at full output power in a worst case scenario.
http://jbl.com/car/support/AUTOMEDIA_CEA2006.pdf
Another rule of thumb is 1 farad for every 1000 watts of power, so a 1 farad cap will not be a bad idea. The bigger the wire, the greater the flow of electrons. 2awg will work just fine, but once you get 0awg, you are never going to have to worry again.
Originally Posted by jmax
700 watts of class D is 80% efficient, 875 watts input power.
300 watts class AB, that will never be used by a mid, tweet or even midbass is 50% efficient, 600 watts input for full output.
600 watts + 875 watts = 1475 watts from the alternator. Industry standard alternator voltage = 14.4 volts. Divide 1475 watts by 14.4 volts and you have 102 amps, at full output power in a worst case scenario.
http://jbl.com/car/support/AUTOMEDIA_CEA2006.pdf
300 watts class AB, that will never be used by a mid, tweet or even midbass is 50% efficient, 600 watts input for full output.
600 watts + 875 watts = 1475 watts from the alternator. Industry standard alternator voltage = 14.4 volts. Divide 1475 watts by 14.4 volts and you have 102 amps, at full output power in a worst case scenario.
http://jbl.com/car/support/AUTOMEDIA_CEA2006.pdf
Originally Posted by TAPOUT
Another rule of thumb is 1 farad for every 1000 watts of power, so a 1 farad cap will not be a bad idea. The bigger the wire, the greater the flow of electrons. 2awg will work just fine, but once you get 0awg, you are never going to have to worry again.
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