I just got in my Pioneer 750MP head unit, CDT CL-61 components, and CDT CL-6x coaxials. I am looking to add subs to this setup. What I am looking for are subs that will hit, but I'm not looking for too much bass. I'm on somewhat of a budget so I don't want to spend a whole lot, couple hundred is what I had in mind. Also, reccomendations on an amp and box for the subs would be very helpful. Any help is appreciated. Thanks in advance.

-Rich

 

my advice would be to do a single 12" with at least
250 rms.....that could yield good sq at a reasonable price

 

i'm a JL man. i'd go with a 12W6 (maybe 2?) and either a 250/1 or a 500/1 to power it.

 

thats a nice system dj but for a "couple" hundred you can get maybe 1 w6.

 

I'd go with a resonant engineering SE. 10 or 12 handles around 600watts. Could pair it with a JBL 600.1 and have a nice sounding setup.

For more SQ go for an Image DYnamics IDQ or an Elemental designs sub maybe.

 

By a couple hundred I mean that I'd like to keep it $400-$500 max.

I'd rather get 2 subs over a single. What I mostly listen to is rap/hip hop and I don't really want subs/box that is very heavy.

Thanks for the input so far.

 

Get a XXX 15" it will put out more then most and pair of 12's out there, hell more then most Trios or quad setups of 12's for that matter. I would say get two 12" XXX's but thats well exceednig your price range
A single 15 XXX in sealed 3ft box fed by 1500w/rms should do fine. A single 15 will weigh less then two 12's so...you do the math

 

hitman i think he doesnt want that much bass though.

 

Speaking of too much bass. Did you guys happen to see that truck with 8 XXX's in the back? There's pictures of the install floating around on some of the boards. lol.

 

Nonsense, no such thing...unless your having trouble seening stop signs then id turn it down

Im gonna go all out with mine soon, Im gonna keep the same box, increase port area, wire it up to 1ohm and tune it to 30hz. Im setup to run a stupid amount of power so I damnit im gonna do it Just as soon as I get my headunit back from warranty that is

 

yeah that truck is all over every car audio forum. i believe the price of install was 20g but dont quote me. good luck with the h/u hitman and you should do some before and after speaker ****.

 

Yeah thats one bad@ss truck, I wouldnt be surprised if it was over 20K. As for the h/u...**** happens Im gonna get another til I get it back, then ill install it in my fathers truck or something and put the 8443 back in mine

Sub ****, mine barley moves right now. Im definetly going to run the SSF once I go all out though, I should gain about 4db so its going to be quite a diff inside.

 

Diamond Audio CM3 10" or M6 10"

www.diamondaudio.com

get a JL Amp - you'll need at least 500W RMS to run the Diamond CM3 and 750W RMS to run the M6.

Everywhere I listened to the two, the Diamond sounded much tighter than the JL 10W6

but that's just my opinion.

-vq

 

I have two pioneer 12's in the trunk. I've had two amps to the subs. One of a Rockford Fosgate 700S. Now I have the Eclipse DA7232 2000 watt amp. I had a lot of bass with the RF amp, but I can have a lot more with the Eclipse amp

But if you want to keep it relatively cheap buy it off ebay.

 

Power is over-rated Its how you use it that counts. All a large amp like your eclipse is gonna do is give you a lot of headroom. I can get just as much bass using 400w.

 

What model Pioneers are you running? I totally agree with the eBay, buying new stuff is overrated. If you are anything like me you will have at least a half dozen systems in the next five years. You just can't afford to take the initial depreciation over and over agian.

Oh, and as far as Amps go MMATS rules all.

 

Hitman - I would rather get two 10's over a 15. The weight difference isn't that significant.

VQMAN - I found the CM3's on ebay for about $189. How's that price? Also, if you know, how much do the subs weigh? The M6 will hit harder than the CM3 right?

Has anyone had any experience with the Diamond Subs?

 

goddam the M6 weighs about 20 - 25 lbs...

Diamond does not warranty products you buy off of ebay, and that is the "regular" price for a CM3, so I would think you could do better (3 year warranty) for the same price if you can find an authorized dealer, the diamond audio website has a link to "dealers near you".

I had two M6's and my car's rear end got a "lowering job" without having to buy new springs!

the M6 will hit harder than the CM3, but the CM3 is a more efficient sub (requires less power) and the CM3 is lighter (good for going fast)

I have the one CM3 being powered by a 600x1 Diamond D3 amp (that's 600 by 1 at 1 ohm)

It hits quite nicely...any more bass, and I'd feel out of place in my plush suburban neighborhood.

-vq

 

^^^ I double posted, read both entries

two CM3's won't weigh you down too much, unless you also have a FAT amp...

but you'll need some serious power to power the two of them..

acutally, I'll sell you both of my M6's, they were used about 2 weeks before I decided they were too heavy for my ride, I have the box and everything...

let me know if your interested, but even though it's not in my best interest, I'd recommend the CM3, it's their "bottom of the line" sub, but it's still trump tight...

 

It actually depends on the brand more then anything. If I got two 10" Brahmas instead of the Brahma 15" I got it would weight considerably more. The 10" sub weighs in at 37lbs were the 15" weighs in at 41lbs. So yeah it would weigh more in my case. Dont think the size of the cone has anything to do with how well it plays, more cone area means more SPL.

Diamond subs are pretty good but over-priced IMO

 

+1 on the diamond subs. for a great budget sub the pg ti's cant be beat. about 20 lbs per 10" sub though.

 

Can't believe you guys are all thinking 20Lbs for a sub is a lot. That's actually half the weight of my 12.

Diamond does seem to make some pretty good stuff, but for the price I think there is better.

 

I think stupid is somewhere around 1500W on a Brahma. It can handle it for a burp, but not extended listening. When you start looking around trying to figure out what's burning, you'll know. The guys at Adire were telling me that a 12 in a large ported box can handle about 1200W, I think the 15 should handle a bit more.

 

how many 12's do you have?

 

Just the one. If I went with two I would go with a sealed enclosure to try and keep the box size down. I've seriously thought about adding a second but I keep on coming up with good reasons not to.

 

well i have 2 10's so my subs= your sub in weight. weight isnt really a factor to me, just something to think about.

 

Yeah 1500 on a Brahma is stupid loud (sealed or ported ) I only have 400w (4ohms) on my B15 at the time being but I think ill be fine with 1200w/rms. I got my HU back from Eclipse yesterday which was only 6days w/o sound instead of 3weeks which is what I was told so im happy about that. I got it back in so probably tomorrow after work im going to pull the sub and wire it up and 1ohm to get the full 1200. I have a feeling im going to get some horrible port noise (22" port area) and after speaking to Adire I was told 30 would be more then enough for upto 800, but anything more then 35" isnt gonna do much. So 35" port area it is. Im not worried about the sub at all, on winIsd it showed that I can play down to 22Hz w/o hitting xmax so im going to run the SSF at 25hz just incase I doubt its necessary but its nice to have a safey net.

As far as the 12 handling 1200, it all depends on the box/tuning frequency but im sure you already know that dont you. The only reason I was thinking about raising the tuning freq a bit is so I can save some more room in the box, either that or ill run it outside...who knows. Ill figure it out tomorrow.

Btw-what kind of sub are you running?

 

B12, Kinda a hybrid now between a mark 1 and a mark 2, when I had it reconed they used their updated spider, cone, dustcap, tinsel leads, etc. It plays louder than ever. The guys at Adire are great. I'm running a ported box that I modeled to tune at 28Hz, although I never bothered to measure wher it really is tuned at. My port is 1.75X15.5 giving me a bit over 27in^2. Use the side and rear wall of the enclosure, it will save you around an inch of port length due to the end correction factor. You can calculate exactly how much at http://www.jlaudio.com/tutorials/ports/index.html.

The Brahma can handle a ton of power, but not for very long if you play it near it's tuning frequency since the cone excursion is minimal the cooling of the voice coil is compromised. Hence smoke.

 

The tinsel leads on the MKI's sucked The MK2's however are sweet as hell. As for the port, yeah im going to use the box wall to save some space, but a port area of 35-36" has to be ran pretty long (30"+) so thats why I was considering running the port outside like this since I already have no trunk space, so why not
As for playing it near tuning freq, I hardley ever find any song that plays that low for that long. The only song that actually made the sub do anything strange is "woofer cooker" which has many 30hz notes that hold for 10-15 sec at a time. There isnt much cone movment at that either so yeah, even with 400w it got the glue on the VC's warm.

 

That's why it's called "woofer-cooker"

Are you sure you need that much port area, you might be able to get by with a little over 30". After all, it's in your trunk so slight port chuffing won't be noticed.

 

Yeah that song lives up to its name very well. Last time I mentioned it on CAF some1 tried it and blew out his kickers anyway...

I dont really NEED that much port area. Adire already told mt that 28-30" should be more then enough. I might just go with 2" wide and 14.5" tall so ill get a total of 29" port area. I was thinking about it, and im most probably going to stick with my 28hz tuning freq as well. I want to cone to move more, and it would do that with 28 better then 30. One other issue is transient response, I know its only a 2hz diff but you know how picky some1 can be about these things.

 

Bahhh...stupid amp keeps going thermal. It played for 4sec (btw-didnt hear any port noise ) then went into auto-protect, even though the amp didnt get how. Here we go again with the amp issue Every1 on CAF is trying to convince my its my install Im still gonna give it a look over but very doubtful. Stupid amp.

 

cant you just return it to sd?

 

Yeah, its still under warranty. Im going to call them and see if they can have some1 take care of it locally under manufacturers warranty, if not ill just have no choice but to send it back.
Whats really confusing me is that these amps are supposed to be bear bullet proof. Yet I got two of them in a row that sucked. Im still going to go over the install tomorrow but its probably going to be a waste of time. I know everything is as it should be, if the install was the problem this problem would have occured since the 1st time I fired it up
Its just that SD took 3+weeks last time and im really getting sick of this crap. Its anoying to know you have something and its not working

 

i feel ya. well id try to get some $$$ back and get maybe an 800-1100 watt amplifier.

 

Yeah, SD is gonna hear it tomorrow. I feel sorry for whoever picks up the phone As for the amp ill figure that out tomorrow, I was thinking about the JL1000.1 but the amp is like a damn surfboard 20" long... enough thinking about audio for the day.

 

JL only rates the 1000/1 at 1.5 Ohm. Not recommended to go lower than that.

What amp are you using now?

Also measure the DC resistance of your sub. Should be somewhere around .7 Ohm or so. If it is, your install is just fine. Probably not going thermal, more like over current sense tripping. The other thing to check is if your input voltage to the amp is dropping too low.

Nice to hear about the port noise though.

 

I know, I can wire it at 4ohms and still get the full 1Kw.

Directed 1500d, its the same amp as the 1100d...just a diff cover.

Im going to go over the wiring ect... all that tomorrow at works. Ill be sure to check that as well. I will also check the amps imput voltate, but I doubth thats an issue. The Eclipse 8443 has 8v pre-outs and I just installed my 2nd HU, the 1st one I send back under warranty a week ago and its doing the same thing with this HU so both cant be messed up but you never know.

Yeah, for having just 22" port area I was surprised it didnt make any noise with 1200 feeding it. It played for just 4sec be4 the amp shut off but it was definetly louder but quite a margin with 1200 on it rather then just 400. Im guessing it was a good 4db jump.

 

Sorry, forgot JL's did that.



should work fine. I'm a bit suprised you have been having problems with them, I've heard pretty good reviews before.

I meant the power in to the amp. If your amp hits it might be pulling the input voltage to the amp down too low tripping the Over/Under voltage protect.

 

As am I. The reason I purchased the amp was due to its reliability but looks like I got a bad one...again.

Understood. One more thing to add to the list of things to go over tomorrow.