2001semax

Would a bass tube work good in a 5th gen trunk or would it create too much rattle like mt 2x12in subs... i was thinking of getting like a 10 in bass tube, but only if it will not create too much rattle and make it sound good without using too much power

MannyNJ2k2max

iTrader: (3)

why dont you sound deaden your trunk instead?

2001semax

i did that already , but i wanna get rid of the 100lb box and replace it with something lighter and something so i can use my trunk... so will a bass tube casue rattle like my box or will it not be as noticable.

JAIMECBR900

Depends on how hard you drive it. It shouldn't though. I had one for a long time w/o problems.

Robert_J

Like JAIMECBR900 said, 'it depends'. If you use the same drivers in a different shaped enclosure and drive it just as hard, it will rattle the exact same way.

Are you going with something pre-fab or just stopping by Home Depot and picking up some Quickrete cardboard tubes?

-Robert

mendon99

iTrader: (15)

can you fit it behind your seat?

MannyNJ2k2max

iTrader: (3)

You should consolidate to a single 10" or 12" sealed in that case- I really dont like bass tubes and their common port turbulance at higher sound levels, whereas a single sub in a small cube can outperform it

2 Da Max

iTrader: (2)

would u feel more bass in a sealed box than in a tube?

Robert_J

If the tube was sealed also and they both had the same internal air space, then they would sound identical. Shape of the enclosure means nothing when comparing subs as long as the enclosures are built resonant free.

Comparing ported to sealed is also difficult unless we know the details of the ported box. Enclosure size, Fb, port size, sub, etc.

-Robert

2 Da Max

iTrader: (2)

i want to feel the bass outside my car, would a box do this? because all my tube does is rattle, but it sounds good wen your inside the car

Robert_J

I don't think you are getting it. It's not the enclosure shape. As long as the tube or box has enough air space, you use a quality driver and push it with enough power you will feel the bass outside your car. All else fails, put this bass tube in your car.

That sounds like it's an issue with your car rattling. You can play a test disc of tones to find out what frequency your car rattles at. Find the rattle and dampen it. (I really hate making the following statement) If you really want your bass to 'travel', you need to play low frequencies. The lower the frequency the farther away you can hear it. That takes a quality driver with lots of xmax and enough power to push it. (what I really meant to say) If it sounds good in the car, screw everyone else that's standing outside. If they want to listen, they can get in.

-Robert

2 Da Max

iTrader: (2)

ok, because i was just wondering if i should spend the money and get a box, or keep the tube, so i guess ill keep the tube but upgrade the sub. i dont know if you know alot about subs, but how do you think a kicker comp vr would sound in a tube? it has 500watts peak, and my amp pushes 400 continous watts at 4 ohms with a peak of 600watts. rite now i really want the bass to be felt outside the car. i want to be able to be outside of the car and get hit by the bass lol neways thanx alot for the info

Robert_J

I don't know. How much air space is in your tube? Is it ported? What the Fb (tuning frequency) if ported?

Wattage rating on a sub is almost useless. That is the amount of power it will take before the voice coil melts. The only problem with that is the sub will usually reach full excursion way before it reaches it's thermal limits. The amount of power it can take is based on the enclosure it is mounted in and the type of signal it is being fed. For instance, when I build a home sub it needs to be able to handle extremely low bass from action movies. Lord of the Rings has bass down around 10hz in some scenes. I either need a sub with a huge xmax or I use a subsonic filter. Either way, I model the sub in WinISD or Unibox before I even draw the sub out on paper.

I've been building home and car speakers off and on since I was 15. Even though I've been doing this for 20 years (that sounds like a long time!), I'm still learning from guys who can are coming up with ideas like this and this.

-Robert

2 Da Max

iTrader: (2)

wow thanks for the info man, i mean its easy for me to comprehend and understand automechanics lol but wat u jus said i dont think ill ever understand electroniics.
i dont know about all that fb and hz stuff[not to sound stupid, lol i guess i shoulda payed attention in pphyics.], but the tube is ported, and has a little curve on it like a feedback hole which air comes out of, its about 2feet long, not really all that long, its a smaller tube, but it wholes a 10inch speaker. its at the right side of my trunk facing the tail light and the speaker is about 4 to 6 inches away from the taillight, and the tube is tied down the right side along the trunk

JAIMECBR900

I think your problem may be that the bass tube you're using is not very good. I've used a pair of 10" tubes that would rattle your fillings loose.

What kind of tube do you have?

The advantage of a bass tube to a traditional enclosure is that it's removable and offers good bass response for it's size. A bass tube usually offers more airspace in a smaller size due to it's shape (it's a geometry thing circle vs square).

It is a good choice if you chose a good one in the first place. If you get a cheap Walmart one, don't expect it to sound even decent. Those are garbage.

2 Da Max

iTrader: (2)

dam i guess u answered my ques, my friend said hell buy it for 40, but i dont want to sell it lol its been passed down to me from my uncle and my friend said there hard to find. is that true? i mean if there not hard to find ill sell it for 40

2 Da Max

iTrader: (2)

bump should i sell it ?

Robert_J

Is it a Bazooka brand like this? Those were the thing to have back in '89/'90. Subwoofer technology has left Bazooka behind.

-Robert

2 Da Max

iTrader: (2)

yes its like that but without an amp. think i should sell it for 40 though? because my friend said that i should keep it for later on, because there hard to find? what to do? if i sell it im def getting a sealed box

Robert_J

$40 seems OK. I picked up some Bazooka 12" drivers for $13 each last year. They have decent specs and I couldn't pass up that deal.

-Robert

1996blackmax

iTrader: (2)

Robert, I like to peak in on the threads that you respond in (to absorb knowledge). You have a lot of knowledge and you are willing to share it with us here on the Org. I think that this is pretty cool on your part.

Robert_J

Thanks. Since I'm just getting my feet wet with car knowledge, this is the only section I can give back to the Org. Because of the 4th gen section, I'm going to attempt to replace my worn-out struts on the old Max sometime in the next week. The 6th gen section has alerted me to numerous things to watch out for. I'm just trying to keep the flow of information a two-way street.

This isn't my only forum. If you need help with any of the following subjects, feel free to post in the following locations. I'm checking the sites daily (except when travelling for work) and will respond accordingly.
www.hometheaterspot.com - (ID=Robert_J) general home theater, direct broadcast satellite systems, DIY audio and Mitsubishi HDTV's
www.hometheaterform.com - (ID=Robert_J) general home theater, direct broadcast satellite systems, DIY audio and Tivo
www.avsforum.com - (ID=rlj5242) direct broadcast satellite systems, DIY audio and HDTV reception via satellite and over the air
www.tivocommunity.com - (ID=rlj5242) all things Tivo related

-Robert