I want to get four component speakers in my 02 max but I am new to audio. I don't know what things come with component speaker and how to install them or where. And do you really need an amp and what watts? Help.

 

ok compnents are better than coaxials. coaxials are pretty much regular speakers but some may be amped. components can handle higher wattage and put out more bass than coaxials. components come with xovers, for the tweeters and the speaker it self from the amp. now you could hook it up to the radio, or you can amp them later on. you dont really need an amp, but if you want the best out of it you should amp them. check out irishmaxs thread on his eclipse components.

 

comps are better, or it you dont want to pay that much, try to find some used crossovers, that will atleast give you better sound from stock or coaxial speakers. the cross over just splits up the signal from the amp, wether it be internal on the HU or a external like mine, and send the correct frequency to the correct speaker. like it will get the signal from the amp, and send all high frequencies to the tweeters, and all mid and low frequencies to the midbass driver, wether it be 5", 6.5", or what ever size you have. adding a crossover to a set of coaxials and new tweeters will sound good too.

 

i have alpines 2 way coaxials, they sound nice, but doesnt hit as hard as the comps

 

Components will sound much better because of the crossovers, each speaker will get the signal it needs... example: the mid wont be getting signals to play sounds that only the tweeter can and so forth so its a much cleaner sound

Second if your going to get components, you only need them for the front... you can get coaxials for the rear just for the fill

 

The main differnce between the two is price and power. If you have less money and power go with coaxials otherwise go with components. Almost all coaxials come with crossovers, but they are cheap and not as good in quality. Majority of them will use a capacitor as the crossover so the hi frequency is usually still sent to woofer and sent to tweeter. Most components come with a crossover that blocks the really hi frequencies from going to the woofer. You also have the option of putting a tweeter where you want it to get a real "stereo" sound. Your gonna need more power for component set to get as loud as your normal coaxials.

 

thanks everyone for the advice. how do i install crossovers with component speakers?

 

i would imagine putting a set of components in the back would make the sound quality better

 

No it wouldnt
You want components up front to set up a stage for your sound and the bass coming from the rear... otherwise you'll have all different types of sounds hitting your ears from all different directions. Alot of people take off their rear speakers completely

 

tomorrow i re-install my rear fills, they fell out cause of the sub.....

 

HIJACK!

Are they installed behind the HU or along with the speakers?
Is the stock 2k2 non-bose enough to power them?
I'm looking more for quality than loudness.

Thanks.

 

You'll need an amp for them just the headunit wont do much. The crossovers you install in the kick panel. Alot of people install them inside the door with the speakers but moisture can get in there and ruin them.

 

Ugh ... more misinformation.

Coaxials are ideal. They keep the highs on axis with the lows. There's a reason all these companies are making component sets where you can mount them like coax if you want. When you separate the tweeter from the woofer, lots of things happen. Some of the things can be good and even desirable. Things like separating the soundstage. If you can't aim your coaxials directly at your ears, then your stage will be low, and that plain sucks. You crack a window and you hear the wind more than your stereo at top volume. So separating the tweets and bringing them up higher makes sense. In this case, you should throw away the passive crossovers and bi-amp the set actively crossed over. Overlap the bandpass frequencies instead of depending on the slope of the passive x-overs to fill the gap ... your speakers will sound more like they're together and your stage will still be high.

My favorite comment tho (sorry 2 Da):

This has NOTHING to do with whether they are coax or component. Maybe the way the company designed the two speakers is different, but if all specs on the woofer and tweeter are the same, there will be NO difference.

Best thing is modular. Bi-ampable coaxials where the tweeter is removable. Image Dymanics Chameleon's do this as well as many others.

 

Big Ham,

Given the stock set-up (tweeters on A-pillar, 6.5" in the front door), wouldn't it make sense to separate their duties? Would 2/3/4/-ways in the door be overkill as far as highs, while compromising lows?

 

really dam thats even better news for me!! lets me know that i havent wasted my money lol. No seriously i did not know that coaxials and components were that much different. So a component speaker should have as much lows as a coaxial?

 

all i know is my cdt component woofers hit harder than the cdt coaxials in the rear doors. but they pale in comparison to my crappy shivas.

 

I run a 3 way system (6.75s in stock location, 3.5s in the area right above the window controls, tweets in A-pillars) and couldnt be happier. Tweets and 3.5s crossed over at around 180hz and 6.75s crossed at 100 with both on a 12db slope.

 

i need help tuning my coaxials, they handle 40rms, and my amp pushes 60rms. my gain is in the middle, im afraid if i go more i will blow them. my lpf is on and there is another ***, hold on let me check

 

What I am saying is that more than likely, Infinity Reference series (for example) probably uses the same exact woofers for their Reference ss coaxials and the Reference series component speakers. If this is the case, the woofer should have all the same theile-small parameters and therefore have the same bass response, etc. regardless of which you buy.

That said, I have no idea if speaker companies actually use the same woofers in each, but I would imagine for cost and R&D savings, they would.

3 way systems are a GREAT way to go. Even better if you can actively cross everything over instead of depending on the outboard passive x-overs. This gives you greater adjustability and ultimately better sound if tweeked right. 3 way systems offer a dedicated bandpass speaker which many times is a "hole" for component sets.

I have my entire system actively crossed over. I use no rear fill speakers at all and my component set is bi-amped and crossed over at ~2000Hz. This is a low crossover point for tweeters, but the Infinity Beta set I have ... the tweeters have a crossover point much lower than typical components.

 

You're right.

 

No, that's completely wrong. Read my post.

 

I bought 2 comps for the front speakers and 2 coaxials for the back; JL audio XR series. When I go to jl audio dealers they tell me that I need a new headunit and the speakers might not fit. Help, I'm confused.

 

Don't let them intimidate you because you're a female. If you are doing all this on the stock headunit, they may be right about needing a new headunit ... but you'd be better off with a line level convertor and a new amp than a new headunit.

They will fit as long as they are both 6.5" speakers.

Dealers can be a$$holes. If you don't like the guys, walk out.

 

Forgot to say that the speakers I bought were 6.5inch round and factory speakers.

 

thanx for the help

 

To each his own, but you're wrong. HAHHAHAHAH!

Components sound better, and if anyone tries to say that it throws off the soundstage obviously doesnt know how to balance their amp.

Components all the way!

 

Wow, you're right. I never looked at it that way! Lots of facts to support your argument too!

 

Ijust removed my rear fill coaxes and dont 'miss them'- thats what a properly set up fronstage will do(or could it be the 300rms perside?

Its definitly a preference thing, anyone can do what they want- But the right way to do things as per a Sound Quality standpoint is you should never hear
sounds coming from behind you. Even your bass is supposed to meet up with your fronstage on the center of the dash- People in SQ competitions lose points or dont even get evaluated the second a judge doesn't hear the setup this way- Picture a concert- sound is coming in front of you

 

Amen. Finally someone who prescribes to the purist method. I haven't run rear speakers in my car in well over 7 years. Rear seat passengers complain, but it sounds great from where I'm sitting

I'm not at 300RMS per side (good lord), but I'm running 75 x 4 to an actively crossed over component set ... all 4 individual speakers have 75W RMS at their disposal, and it works for me

 

yeah ever since i amped my mids highs i hear the rears... i guess ill have to fade to the front then. im all about the concert style of listening.

 

maybe amping my boston coaxils i have up front won't hurt...kinda hard to hear them (stupid bass). they're currently powered only by my head unit.

 

Well in no way are they actually seeing 300rms...lol....but yeah, power on tap brings your speakers to life, particularly mids...

 

Yep ... dynamic headroom. mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm

 

do it! i had a hard time hearing my cdts on bass heavy songs but now its 100x better.

 

rick you ran em off your h/u?? what kind do you have

 

i have the cl61a's and ran them off my deh 8500...now they are run on a kicker kx 150.2 and a pioneer avhp6600dvd.

 

rick are you running them at 2ohm or something?? i thought that kx150.2 was weaaak sauce. im thinkin about seling my avionixx 85x4 for a two channel around 120~130watts and running my rears (cl-6x) off my h/u cuz 85 watts is a little much even though they dont complain

 

dam my fronts are only getting like 40watts, im afraid to give it anymore. for some reason the bose in the rear sounds better than the fronts??

 

amp is rated at 200 watts rms and according to kevin im running it at 2 ohms by running the front off one chanel and the rears off one channel. so if thats true then its 50 per side in the front...then 50 per each cl6x in the rear. its loud enough to the point where i cant take it.

 

^^ got the same amp as slickrick mines rated at 202 watts. A channel on each set of speaks got comps in the front coaxs in the back and it bumps