Alright I bought two subs in a bandpass off my friend. Bought a kenwood 600 watt amp(little short on cash right now got vacation comin up).Get it installed at a respectable local place. Pick it up he says there's a problem. everythings fine but when you use a cd and crank it it stops playin. He shows me. Its sooooo weird it completely cuts out. So u gotta turn it off and turn it back on again. Whats even weirder(is that a word?) when I turn my lights on or off the subs hit. I am so confused.

 

You're running off the stock HU?
CD of HU stops playing or amp shuts off?
or is the cd skipping from the vibrations?
Subs hit as in make a thud kinda noise?
I suspect an install problem... do you have any more
details?

 

You might want to get a capacitor. This is just a suggestion, I'm not really sure how to help you. Before I got a capacitor, my subs would not play because the amp would be off I guess. When I would accelerate from a green light the amp would come on and the subs would hit. I have no clue how or why but there's my suggestion through weird experiences. ~_~ Hope it helps.

 

Maybe it's wired with the wrong ohm load. That would cause it to go into protection mode. Which amp and subs do you have and how are they wired?

 

they make a thud noise but loud. Ya i got the stock head unit. The radio just stops no noise at all. Everything is on just no music.

Also the radio and tape player work fine. play it as loud as I want. Only when an actual cd is bein used this happens. It goes pretty loud but not full volume.

 

The capacitor sounds like a good idea.
DFS, any type of reving will crank the alternator
so you got more power, enough to supply your system, when
you hit the gas.

00BM, the cap should filter out the thud noise when you turn on your lights. It'll also supply the amp with "stored" charge when it needs extra juice. But I'm stumped as to why it shuts off only when you play CD's.
You may also want to verify that the power for the amp is coming straight from the battery, and not tapped into the HU
wire harness. Since you said the install place is "respectable," they should have connected it to the battery with a fairly thick gauge wire, but it doesn't hurt to check.

 

I say you take it back to them and have them check it out and fix it.

 

the thump that u hear is because ur amp is prob not cutting on and off with ur ignition...meaning it's constantly on....because most modern amp when u turn it on it delays for a sec to prevent the thump when first turning on ur car while ur radio is on...with the cd-player not playing sounds like an installation prob...what head unit do u have....bose...or nissan cd-player...

 

I got the nissan hu. I think its time for me to buy the alpine cva 1005.

 

Without actually testing several things it is hard to diagnose for sure. But I have heard of many products which wil shut off when the voltage drops below a respectable point. So my guess is that you need a cap. The guys at the install shop may have drained the battery real low, or they were given a weak battery to start with, to give you a low residual voltage at the battery. When the CD is inserted and starts playing with signal to noise of over 90 dB's you don't have enough voltage to keep the amp turned on and it thumps when it turns off. You also get thumps when the lights go on and off because there is another voltage spike. The cap should solve all of these, but you may have a bad battery so get it checked. Also it is possible that the installers did not power and ground sufficiently. If you switch to the Alpine HU or any other brand with a larger current drain it will only magnify your problem.

 

With my old Kenwood amps in my old car, they would shutoff just like you said, but only when I am discharging the hell out of the electrical system. I would have to be at a light, bumping like crazy or my lights and defroster would have to be on while driving. Kenwood has a horrible powersupply switch system in their older amps. Also, the thumps when you turn the lights on and off are possibly from the fact that the stereo may have not run a "remote" lead from the headunit (saves 'em install time). Most modern amps like they said above, have that muting feature *only* when a proper remote lead is attached to the amp from the headunit (or other switch). If power is being "yanked" while the amp is on (not using a remote lead), you would hear a thump.

Another thing to check: If your wires from your head unit (or going to the amp) are shorting out someplace amongst each other, or on the metal of the car... The circuit breaker will turn on. That seems to be your problem since you are turning the unit off and then on to restore it to normal. (That's how a circuit breaker is meant to be used...)

 

Your decribed problem doesn't seem like it has to do with the charging system (or even cap). I would first go thru and check *every* wire for that possible short...

 

maybe there is an overload on the remote out power. i had this problem with the clarion head in my p-finder. tried to run 2 amps and a fan - would shut the head down. i had to install a relay.

 

The fan shouldn't be running off the remote out regardless. But the relay is a good idea. With just one amp why do you need fans? Unless it is covered up, inwhich case the fans may not be able to circulate any air around the heat sink.