ghostridden

iTrader: (2)

So i'm going to buy my 12w3 tomorrow , should i build a ported or sealed box for this sub?? i listen to rap only when trying to show off,lol, but mainly rock, what do yall think???

memphis_sktr

Well, here is the sizes of the box you will need whether it is ported or sealed http://www.jlaudio.com/subwoofers/pd...PowerRange.pdf . Here was a discussion about which setup is for which http://forum.ecoustics.com/bbs/messages/4/4467.html . And if that isn't enough, here is a link to an owner's manual on the subwoofer http://www.jlaudio.com/subwoofers/pdfs/12W3v2_MAN.pdf . HAVE FUN!

ghostridden

iTrader: (2)

cool thnx, any opinions guys?

JDogg96

I have that same sub, I built a ported box to the specs that are listed in the owners manual and I am very happy with the results. I listen to mostly rap, but the bass from this setup is still pretty tight and accurate.

505max94se

iTrader: (15)

I like those jl's in a nice vented box, tuned to about 30-35hz.

bigtimemax

iTrader: (1)

i agree with 505max vented+tuned low+big amp = ear drum itch

Gramdacious

iTrader: (1)

I got that same sub in a slot ported box tuned at about 30-35 hz. Nice and deep

AscendantMax

iTrader: (7)

port the box if you looking for a bit more spl. but ported box are less accurate. if you're going to listen mostly to rock, a sealed box will be your best bet, due to the great sq a sealed box can provide.

505max94se

iTrader: (15)

I think it will be a little punchier and more accurate in a sealed box but if you put it in a vented box and tune it low, it will still be very accurate (as long as it is tuned low) and a little louder than a sealed box.

Just my $0.02

AscendantMax

iTrader: (7)

yeah, my old box was tuned to 28 hz. it was still very accurate (then again the sub played a large role on the accuracy )


*sigh* i miss my brahma...

ghostridden

iTrader: (2)

well ya shouldn't have gotten rid of it

i was going to pic up the sub today with a sealed box but i didn't make it back to the shop in time, now i gotta hope i can make it after work tomorrow

AscendantMax

iTrader: (7)

i guess it was time for a change...

the bull broke loose from my trunk and is caged in another guy's trunk.

ghostridden

iTrader: (2)

how much did you sell it for man?

AscendantMax

iTrader: (7)

let's just say i gave that kid a good deal

ghostridden

iTrader: (2)

damit man!!!!!!!! i would've paid an arm and a leg for that

adamlee2001GXE

I have the same sub, in a sealed box. I dont know any different. I can't remember if I went with the sealed box because of convenience or cost, or both. I think it sounds fine. Funny another member was talking about a beast. I think I have a beast of another kind: I have been rear-ended 3 times in the last 3 yrs. Twice in 5 days. Nothing major, but it keeps on kickin!

ghostridden

iTrader: (2)

does it get hard and sound good??

shoman94

iTrader: (4)

The most important thing for you is to have good power....

I have a sealed box in my car and a ported in my girls car.....she has 300watts going to it and I have 400 watts going to mine.

Mine hits harder (punch) and are about the same with low end grunt like with rap etc....but mine does get the nod.....

Vent the trunk....the Maxima trunk is very tight.

Sealed will save you space and is usually easier to build.....

watt for watt the ported box will have a bit more SPL.....

Weigh your options....

--Jason

ghostridden

iTrader: (2)

how in the hell do you port a trunk?

ghostridden

iTrader: (2)

oh will it make a difference if i get a sealed box and its not exactly what JL recomends? like will it hurt it any?

shoman94

iTrader: (4)

Make an opening in the rear deck for example that allows air to pass thru.....



Always use JL's volume recommendations when possible. Dimensions doesn't matter...its the internal volume that does....

ghostridden

iTrader: (2)

don't you have to go by the external dimensions to make the volume? kinda feeling like an idiot right now having to ask this

Robert_J

Us the INTERNAL dimensions of the box to determine volume. Also, that's "net" volume. You need to account for the amount of air your sub (cone, frame and magnet) displace and any bracing inside the box.

-Robert

shoman94

iTrader: (4)

JL's specs already account for the space taken up by the sub.....If you add extra bracing internally then you have to account for that also....

Also JL's specs with the slot ported box account for the space taken up by the slot also.....

You can always call JL and speak with them directly.....

--Jason

jigga123

If you weary about cutting a hole in your rear deck, take out the 6x9s or w/e speakers u have in the rear deck. I noticed a large difference.

ghostridden

iTrader: (2)

ok finally i have the subwoofer, the place i bought it wanted to charge me $70 for a sealed box and i laughed at him, my local one said $35, only problem is its not built to the sub, so, how much would it cost to build my own box and what all do i need to build it? i have the design for the box, just going with a sealed box right now

Robert_J

What power tools do you have access to? Do you know how to use them without cutting off any fingers?

I recently bought a Schosche sub box at Wal-Mart for $32. I went ahead and glued it together instead of using their gasket seals. In 45 minutes I had a 1.2cf sealed and carpeted box. I dropped an ED 12A.22 in it. Sounded really good in a friends truck powered by a JBL sub amp. I just need to get the amp installed in my old Maxima.

-Robert

ghostridden

iTrader: (2)

i have a drill, jigsaw, sawzall, just about anything i should need really, only thing i should have to worry about buying is the wood and glue and screws if i need thoughs, am i forgetting anything?

ghostridden

iTrader: (2)

the recommended sealed enclosure is only .05 bigger than walmarts, doesn't walmarts come with wires and everything, is it a good quality board and stuff?? would .05 make a difference?

Robert_J

A table saw for straight cuts and a router for flush trimming and cutting a perfect hole for the sub are the recommended tools. People have gotten by with much less.

Grab a hand full of polyfill and stuff the box. That will make up for the .05 difference. The WM box is 5/8" MDF. It's designed to be put together with nothing but a screwdriver and rubber gaskets between the boards to seal the box up. I pulled the gaskets off and used Tightbond II carpenters glue to glue it together. I also used the supplied screws to hold everything together. To make sure it was sealed, I ran a bead of around the inside seams and smoothed it out with my finger. Is it a great box? No. Is it a great box for $32 and 45 minutes of assembly. Definitely.

I may pick up the 10" version so I will have something for my Lambda Acoustic subs.

-Robert

ghostridden

iTrader: (2)

so do you suggest i should just build my own or just go with the ghetto walmart box? i was planning on picking up some guerrila glue or wood glue for it

Robert_J

When you wood glue it, it's a well built, carpeted generic box. Not a bad deal for under $40. I'm going to use it for a while because I have more important items to build. Finish a left, center and right speaker for the living room. Build two subs with Atlas 12" drivers for the living room. Finally, complete my theater room which includes re-painting (going from dark purple to dark blue), building all of the speakers (seven total), installing the subs (four 15's in an infinite baffle configuration), building the screen (between 100" and 110") and installing the projector (haven't decided on the model). All of this before college football season kicks off.

You may have different priorities and more time to build a custom box.

-Robert