Anyone have 6x9's in the rear deck of 5th gen's??

 

No.

They suck.

Music was meant to be reproduced through a circular cone, not a football.

 

I think some one did it a while ago. PITA. If you just want a full range speaker and to add a little bass, it would work. I personally would use the stock speaker locations and add an 8" or 10" to the rear deck for low end. There is a hole ther already for the stock Bose 8" sub, all you need is either a rear deck from a Bose equipped car or the cover/grill and cut out your rear deck to make it fit.

 

Hey all, I'm new here but I had the same question. I'm trying to stick to the rules (I'm 14 pages deep and this is the first mention i've found of this).

I would really like to put speakers in my rear deck, but don't want them just sitting on top. I don't think the sound is anywhere near as good when you are just using the rear door speakers (which in my case are basically below my head, as I've got my seat all the way back).

As far as the "circular" vs "ovular" vs whatever thing above, I know that's pretty much BS, but would be more than satisfied with a couple of 6.5's or 6x9's.

Can anyone give me some advice or point me in the right direction to find some more information on this? Can you cut through the metal piece that's there without compromising the integrity of the car? I can't use the search function, as I haven't donated, making this a lot harder but if you guys can help me out, i'll definitely return the favor!

Here's what I've got and what I'm planning on getting:
2002 Maxima SE (non-bose)
stock audio currently

What i'm planning on getting:
Infinity KAPPA 60.7CS in the front
KAPPA 692.7i or 62.7i in the rear deck (if possible)
KAPPA 62.7i in the rear doors (if necessary)
CLARION PROAUDIO DXZ655MP deck
INFINITY PERFECT 10.1D subwoofer (anyone have abetter solution that I could hook up to the 8" opening in the trunk?)
HIFONICS Zeus ZX 8000 5-channel AMP


Thanks for the help!

 

That sounds familiar.

 

seriously don said that like a year ago!!!!!!

 

Good use of seraching before posting...props to you!

(1) DON'T USE 6X9S. END OF STORY. IT'S NOT BS, IT'S A FACT. IF YOU WANT A CRAPPY SOUNDSTAGE, THEN FORGET WHAT WE HAVE BEEN SAYING AND USE THEM ANYWAY.

(2) The Kappa's ae VERY harsh...unless you are a treble-phile, look into the CDT's, Diamonds, or Rainbow lines...

 

Alright, I'll look into them. I personally didn't have a problem with the kappa's i listened too and i found them for quite cheap. However, I've heard Diamonds and really like them too.

Anyone have any help on the rear deck issue?

Thanks!

::edit::

I guess I should also note that I was not planning on putting 3-way 6x9's in the back, just 2-way (mid and tweeter). Since I'm putting a sub in, I have no need for the 3-way.

 

What you "know" is Very incorrect. When the last time a concert had oval speakers? A theater? Opera hall? Im sure they should all be using oval speakers since its all BS, maybe someone should inform the designers.

 

From a physics standpoint, you can make a speaker out of any shape. What matters is the materials and quality involved. Again, this differs widely.. But from a simple physics standpoint, as long as the wavefront is linear, the sound from any shape *could* be comparable.

::edit:: If you'd like to help me out and give me advice on better quality speakers (for a comparable price... ~150/pair for all that I mentioned) or a way to accomplish what I am hoping to do, it would be most appreciated.

Thanks!

 

How are the Diamond D661s/D661a? I found them for a comparable price. Any comment on the silk versus aluminum domes?

Would you recommend component or full range in the back? Would positioning the tweeters on the rear deck and the mid in the rear doors work?

Thanks!

 

WxAxGxS sorry to tell you but these guys are right. Yeah you can make a speaker into any shape, however the waves produced by speakers that are out of the norm will not be efficent. When I say norm I mean circular, circular speakers create a close to perfect SINE wave, when you have 6.9 they will still sound OK, but for all the frustration to get it into a 5th Gen it's not worth it nor will it benefit you.

 

I put 6x9 in 4th gen (98) sounded great. had some cutting to do though, not me but the installer

 

How would the sound be if I were to place a round 6.5" in the rear doors? That's how it's configured currently and it sounds like crap (stock speakers aside... it just sounds like i'm sitting on the sound). Would placing the tweeter on the rear deck help or would I still need to place the 6.5" on the rear deck as well?


And as for the SINE source, sound waves are longitudinal waves, not transverse waves. The shape of the source just shouldn't matter... It just takes a lot more engineering to create the linear waveform (more than most would deem necessary to create at least a "good" speaker). It may be that there are no non-round speakers out there that accomplish this, as I am finding as I read more about the quality of 6x9's. Perhaps that'll be a project for me in the future (Don't know much about installs and whatnot, but physics and electronics are my life.)

::edit:: Sin, did he cut straight through the steel frame in your trunk? I have concerns about how this will affect the integrity of the car's frame. I'm assuming the 4th gens havea similar rear deck design as the 5th gens.

 

I just put 2 kicker 6x9's in my rear deck on my 6 gen. they sound pretty good. I will add a amp soon and maybe get a stealth underseat sub or a single 12 in the trunk. I think it will sound good.

 

You 6th gen'ers have spots for speakers in your rear deck, though... That's my issue right now

 

Dude, wtf is your obsession with putting speakers in the rear deck. EVERY car I have heard withj 6x9s in the rear sound as if all of thwe sound is coming from the rear aka total crap.

Let me put it this way:

COAXES IN OEM REAR SLOT ONLY IF YOU CARE ABOUT SQ.

This should be it:

 

+1 to everything Metal Maxima and Don have said. Who needs that much rear fill anyway.

 

So you're saying I should put nothing in back (only in the front)? I never said anything about me wanting to put 6x9's in no matter what... If the 6.5's that are out there sound better, then fine. I just don't want to put them in the rear doors because I don't like the sound. In that position, I'm essentially sitting on top of the speaker.

Also, it's not all that difficult to fade to the front. I also plan on turning it into a surround system at some point in the future (as opposed to just stereo).


::edit:: The 6x9's i was looking at ARE coaxes, not triaxial. I don't know if that makes a difference. You guys obviously have more experience with car audio than I do...

 

If you want surround sound in your car, rears are a must. If you think about the definition of front stage, it is when the sound comes from in front of you. This allows you to create an atmosphere to promote a lifelike experience. I have components in the rear doors and have them turned wayyy down. If I had my choice, I would have put both sets up front.

As far as the 6X9/6.5 argument. I have always found that the best response comes from a round speaker. I am not a big fan of coaxial/triaxial drivers. I want to be able to put the highs where I want and likewise with the midbass. This type of speaker limits placement as well as bunching the sound.

My $.02.

 

Thanks for the input, filter. I'm putting components in front for sure. I figured it would simply be cleaner and easier to have coaxials in the rear (especially since, as you said, you want your volume coming from in front of you). This is my first car audio project, so I'd like to keep it as simple and relatively cheap as possible, while making sure I have everything in place for when/if I choose to put more into it. If I place speakers in the rear deck (likely 6.5" now that I realize that there are no comparable 6x9's out there yet), I just want to make sure that cutting it all up doesn't cause any problems.

 

Assuming this is a 5th gen, you will never get them mounted even or in line due to the child restraint brackets on the rear deck. There is also about 1.5" between the actual metal of the rear deck and the fiberboard cover(which you see). This will cause some issue as to what to fill that gap with. Also which surface you would mount the speaker to. for best results. To answer your question if cutting two 6.5" holes in th rear deck would negatively effect the vehicles structure, I would say no. Especially considering the huge square hole where the Bose sub is in equipped models. Good luck, and have fun. Experimenting is a great way to learn.

 

No problems with cutting through the frame. No rattles or anything for seven years and going... took him a bit though.

 

Good to hear! Thanks a lot. I'll likely mount MDF to fill the 1.5" gap. I figure that will allow me to cut a smaller hole anyway (figure out how much sub will still be under the mdfand cut a hole slightly larger than that. Is it worthwhile to make use of the 8" hole and placea sub there or should I build a separate box and place it completely in the trunk?

 

My thoughts are to mount it completely in the trunk would require the sound to go through the seats and rear deck where as mounting directly to the rear deck would have a direct shot into the cabin. You could build a small sealed enclosure and mount it on the rear deck. I am not sure that an 8" in a seperate box in the trunk would work well, you may need something bigger. My .02

 

Thanks for the input. I've decided to go with Diamond D661s for the front, D661i for the rear (I found a friend how can cut through the steel for me and keep it clean) and a D610D2 sub (which I hope is a good choice as well). If i'm feeling crafty when I start working on things (sub is going to be my last install), I may figure out a way to attack it to the rear deck. It would definitely give me a bit more trunk space in the end as well. I'm assuming that much vibration will definitely require some hefty sound dampening back there too, however.

I'm going to use a Zeus ZX8000, but I don't think this will offer enough power for these speakers. Does anyone have some suggestions for a good amp to match these speakers and the sub? I really wanted an all-in-one solution, but I'm not sure I will be able to do that.

Thanks!

 

Sounds like a good setup so far, although the HiFonics amp...big current drainer and you could definately do better. I would ask the guys at the shop your buying the speakers from what they would recommend. Otherwise my votes would go to a DA or Arc amp.

 

hey guys....what is your experience with phoenix gold?...im looking into the component phoenix gold xenon 6.5 speaker...and 2 12W6V2'S and a phoenix gold amp (something from the xenon series) what do you think?

 

Not the company they used to be. Theres far better options out there.

 

i need something with alot of power (rms)...that will sound very good..so what do you recommend that i go with?..i need specific models and companies..thx

 

How much are you willing to spend? And I assume you have enough power to drive them?

 

ima buy an amp to power my speakers as well, but it depends on the speakers...I have enough money to spend.....i just need to know on what..and i DO NOT like the DA HEX series, maybe something with about the same amount of power or so...but my subs and amp are pretty much decided...well unless i decide to go DA on the subs i guess.

 

Here ya go, big guy....you better have the amp for these.

The Award-Winning Boston Acoustic Z6.
MSRP: $700.
Nominal Power Handling: 400W

 

wow i like those...i also need somethign with about 75/100 rms handling..got anything?..thx for the help by the way.

 

RMS is a thermal rating...NOT a power rating. How many watts can the amp provide?

 

about 100 rms per channel...doesnt rms mean (roots mean squared?)

 

Ummm...the Root Mean Squared is a mathematical term. When analyzing data, the deviation of the basline is squared (to give a positive integer), then averaged (mean). This value is then rooted to give an R squared value which shows how close the data lies to the established baseline. As r-squared approaches 1, the better the data is said to be. This is particularly useful when attempting to model a function via regression lines so that a trend may be established.

 

What media did you copy that from.
Also Metal Max what exatly did you mean when you said RMS is a Thermal rating?


RMS is a better value to work off of as music is not a steady sine wave. Amplifiers will not perform 100% constantly, in turn a better way to go about obtaining an amps constant ouput it is take the Peak power value and multiply it by .707, this is your RMS.

Also why do people get soo caught up on extensive power for mids and highs. It is my opinion that you need to take a look at the efficiency of the speaker, currently I have about 40 Watts constant going to my Components and it is extremely clear and clean. When you start over powering your vocals/highs you will run into distortion, etc.

You also need to take into account the signal coming into your amp, you want to maintain a "HOT" signal into the amp this way you will keep the AMP Gain down and maintain a low distortion clean signal.

Just my $.02

 

There are no ARC or DA dealers anywhere near me. Do you have any other recommendations? The speakers are all 100RMS/200peak @ 4Ohm's. The sub is listed at 2 Ohm, but I could also go for the 4Ohm version or another sub if anyone thinks there are better subs for an equivalent price.

I was looking at Memphis amps as I saw they were recommended in other threads. I saw the MCA3004 75x4 @ 4 Ohm.

::edit:: Just to clarify, DA is Directed Audio right? I can't find any information on DA but I've found some on Directed Audio. If they are one and the same, what do you think of the A1004 85x4 @ 4Ohm to power the speakers? Which of the following would be best for the sub: Direct Audio D600, D800, D1200 D-class or A802 2-channel.

Thanks!


::edit #2:: or is the obvious Diamond Audio? (The place I'm buying from also has the Directed Audio, which was first thing i thought of for some reason)...

 

ONE more question. This is more about audio in general. I see that most (at least decent) amps have SNR of 90+ and speakers of ~95+. The amps I listed above only have a claimed SNR of 82dB. How much difference does the SNR make and how (relatively) accurate are the claimed to the actaul?

Thanks!