Building a carputer
11-21-2005, 03:44 PM
#1
Building a carputer
I wanted to get a navigation unit like the avn or the avis-d1, but there are so much money and they do not have everything that I want. So, I figured the best way to get everything I want for the money was to build a carputer. I want navigation, DVD, and some graphics when playing a song and be able to customize everything. Neither units would be able to have customizable screens. This is a big thing for me because I do not just want the screen to be a boring stock background or a blue screen with the track etc. So, I decided the best route would be to build a carputer, I would be able to have navigation, DVD play back, MP3s all in one place. I think this will be easier because I can build my own computers, it isn't that hard, and plus it will be cheaper than one of those other head units and I get a lot more flexibility with a carputer. I just have some general questions about the install.
1) If I were to get a 7 inch lilliput monitor or something like that will it fill up the gap in the GXE trim? If not what monitor would fit the GXE trim?
2) I know there is the DC-DC power supply but how would I run that to the battery? Is it self explanatory once I actually get the part?
3) How would I hook up the bose speakers to the carputer? Would it be as simple as hooking up a harness and convert it to like a headphone jack and just plug it into the sound card on the computer? Or would I have to do something with the amp?
4) Is there a program that I can install on the computer that will receive radio stations? I really don't listen to the radio at all, but it would be good if I had it just incase.
5) Is there anyone in the Westchester, NY area that is willing to help me install this? I am not too confident with running the wires from my battery, and taking apart my dash, etc.
I am kind of apprehensive with this install, I am confident on building the computer and everything, I am just worried about the fitment of the screen in the GXE dash, the wiring of the power supply to the battery so it is able to turn on when the car turns on and when I turn the car off, and hooking up the audio to my speakers so it sounds decent. Plus I am doing this because my driver side speakers are cutting out and it is a good reason to build this. lol
Yes, I have looked on mp3car.com and it has a lot of good info, but not that much info on maximas with bose, so I'd figured I would ask you guys here about the wiring and the dash kit, etc.
1) If I were to get a 7 inch lilliput monitor or something like that will it fill up the gap in the GXE trim? If not what monitor would fit the GXE trim?
2) I know there is the DC-DC power supply but how would I run that to the battery? Is it self explanatory once I actually get the part?
3) How would I hook up the bose speakers to the carputer? Would it be as simple as hooking up a harness and convert it to like a headphone jack and just plug it into the sound card on the computer? Or would I have to do something with the amp?
4) Is there a program that I can install on the computer that will receive radio stations? I really don't listen to the radio at all, but it would be good if I had it just incase.
5) Is there anyone in the Westchester, NY area that is willing to help me install this? I am not too confident with running the wires from my battery, and taking apart my dash, etc.
I am kind of apprehensive with this install, I am confident on building the computer and everything, I am just worried about the fitment of the screen in the GXE dash, the wiring of the power supply to the battery so it is able to turn on when the car turns on and when I turn the car off, and hooking up the audio to my speakers so it sounds decent. Plus I am doing this because my driver side speakers are cutting out and it is a good reason to build this. lol
Yes, I have looked on mp3car.com and it has a lot of good info, but not that much info on maximas with bose, so I'd figured I would ask you guys here about the wiring and the dash kit, etc.
11-21-2005, 06:09 PM
#3
Here's the thread about mine, I'll address the questions that I have an answer for... 
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=402728
It's pretty self-explanatory by just looking at it. If you already know where your ACC line is then you're halfway there. I didn't use one because I'm using a laptop, but I'm rebuilding everything (again) and I'll probably use one this time around.
I don't know about your car, but with mine I got a PAC AAI-NIS that gave me 2 RCA inputs. From there it was just a matter of using an RCA --> stereo jack to the laptop audio out.
Radiator (and a few others) work with most PCI and USB cards. Check out mp3car.com under their software forums... most frontends either integrate well with Radiator or have built-in FM/XM support that you can use.
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=402728
2) I know there is the DC-DC power supply but how would I run that to the battery? Is it self explanatory once I actually get the part?
3) How would I hook up the bose speakers to the carputer? Would it be as simple as hooking up a harness and convert it to like a headphone jack and just plug it into the sound card on the computer? Or would I have to do something with the amp?
4) Is there a program that I can install on the computer that will receive radio stations? I really don't listen to the radio at all, but it would be good if I had it just incase.
11-21-2005, 06:48 PM
#4
thanks a lot. I don't think that PAC you mentioned will work on my car. How was the audio with the adapter? I guess I need to find one that works with my car. Anyone know the part number?
11-21-2005, 09:09 PM
#7
Originally Posted by cutter
thanks a lot. I don't think that PAC you mentioned will work on my car. How was the audio with the adapter? I guess I need to find one that works with my car. Anyone know the part number?
I think the AAI-NIS is specific to that Bose HU, since the plugs in the back go into the SAT input that the 6th gens come with. As far as quality is concerned, it all depends on the output from the PC. If you have a decent soundcard you get CD-quality sound...
11-22-2005, 04:37 PM
#8
there are lots of ways to do it. I recommend going ot mp3car.com and checking on wat ppl have done. You should get the relay so that when the car turns on the computer will turn on by itself so you don't have the manually flick a switch. Also when ur car turns off it'll shut down the computer too. If you want you can still use a headunit with the carputer so you can get radio. I find that easily to handle then using the computer for radio and everything. You can use the 7" screen but there may be some bondoing required. and a good choice is a DC-DC invertor. Check it out on the mp3car.com buy site. I'm in the process for doing the same thing to my 5.5 and i have already mounted the lcd into my bro's accord which i will be putting a carputer intoo. We're gonna hook it up asap.
11-23-2005, 10:12 AM
#9
Yea I know about mp3car.com. Its a good site. I just have no idea how to hook up the audio with out a headunit. I don't know what adapters/harnesses to use to convert the wires to an rca and from there the rcas to a headphone jack so it will go into the sound card. The only way I can think of getting the sound is to get a flip out vga touchscreen and a headunit and then get the double din sosche and have the audio run thru the aux on the headunit. If you know how to run the audio with out the headunit, please do tell.
11-23-2005, 12:27 PM
#10
how about this....get the sound card...and do the output for the sound card to the input on the amp...then run completely new wires to all the speakers from your amp...the harness behind the radio is only used for sending signal to the speakers through the stock setup so you wont need a wiring harness of any kind...just a bunch of new wire...use the power from your battery directly for the amp and ground it properly...BUT i dont have any clue about the remote wire for you subs (if you have any). Then just build your carputer..attach the video out from your carputer to the flush mounted touchscreen and i think you are set...mount the unit somewhere where it is easy to change cd's or something if you need...i think this shoudl work..but i never built one....if you really wanna save space..i say Mac Mini is the way to go. Lemme know what you think...i could be completely erroneous but i gave it like 5 minutes of thought so i think it might work..if it doesnt lemem know ill come up with something else. 
and I don't want to switch everything out because that is too much money that I don't have right now.
11-23-2005, 11:37 PM
#12
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...RK%3AMEWA%3AIT
thats should be enough wire to do what you need...but you would also need new speakers and an amp...so if you are serious about building a carputer...go all out...or just dont do it...i dunno what to tell you
thats should be enough wire to do what you need...but you would also need new speakers and an amp...so if you are serious about building a carputer...go all out...or just dont do it...i dunno what to tell you
11-24-2005, 05:18 PM
#13
Your 19 also, so I guess you will understand that I am on a budget. I feel like the Bose speakers are sufficient and that there is no need to spend the extra money on swaping everything out. I'd rather keep the Bose and spend the other money and new springs, etc. I just can't figure out a damn way to hook up the audio to the bose with out swaping everything out or using a headunit.
11-24-2005, 06:59 PM
#14
if you got a new headunit your going to run into the same exact problem. You have to buy that PAc something...not sure which one because i never needed one(dont have bose) but someone on here can tell you. It will allow you to connect RCA's as input to the BOSE factory amp so you wouldn't have to replace anything. The BOSE uses a different current or something to send the audio signal. So unless you have the BOSE amp you cannot use the bose speakers. Since you can't replace the BOSE speakers you are going to have to use the BOSE amp and get the PAC converter. You just need to figure what converter you need and a way to get your sound card to output to what the converter needs as inputs.
11-26-2005, 03:06 PM
#17
I just finished installing my car PC setup. I used a Xenarc 700TSV 7’’ LCD Touchscreen 
and an off-the-shelf HP Pavillion S7210N slimline mini PC 
which I simply installed in my trunk. I used a power inverter to supply the AC power to the PC (about 100 watts). The built-in soundcard can be configured for 4 channel sound, so I did that and ran the front and rear soundcard outputs (these are line level outputs) directly from the sound card to the factory bose front and rear amp wires (no pac adapter). It sounds pretty good and it is genuine 4 channel sound, not just a 2 channel up-mix. I got a Griffin PowerMate control 
to use as a physical volume/mute control. For the user interface, I downloaded Meedio 
(a third party variation on XP Media Center) which works very well.
I had to do some cutting to make the screen fit in my dash, but it was worth it. I still have some finishing touches to do before I'll want to take any pictures, but I'm pretty happy with it so far.
David
and an off-the-shelf HP Pavillion S7210N slimline mini PC which I simply installed in my trunk. I used a power inverter to supply the AC power to the PC (about 100 watts). The built-in soundcard can be configured for 4 channel sound, so I did that and ran the front and rear soundcard outputs (these are line level outputs) directly from the sound card to the factory bose front and rear amp wires (no pac adapter). It sounds pretty good and it is genuine 4 channel sound, not just a 2 channel up-mix. I got a Griffin PowerMate control to use as a physical volume/mute control. For the user interface, I downloaded Meedio (a third party variation on XP Media Center) which works very well. I had to do some cutting to make the screen fit in my dash, but it was worth it. I still have some finishing touches to do before I'll want to take any pictures, but I'm pretty happy with it so far.
David
11-26-2005, 05:48 PM
#19
Originally Posted by Cant_Get_Ryte
if you have subs, do these damage the hard drive?
11-26-2005, 06:14 PM
#20
Originally Posted by Cant_Get_Ryte
now the question to me is reliability if you have subs, do these damage the hard drive at all or is this a fairly safe mod for decibels to abound?
Most people that are concerned with vibrations use laptop hard drives, since they're better rated for shock (seeing how they're supposed to be bounced around more than desktop drives), and a 2 1/2" --> IDE converter to go to a regular mobo (if that's the way you're going). My guess is that with a bad enough bump (or enough thump) you're gonna have problems in the trunk... might wanna think about under the seat or something instead.
11-26-2005, 09:45 PM
#21
i was looking at mounting under the seat or in a rack like i did my fosgates (flush out the floor behind the passenger seat). The issue there was ventilation with three amps there and i paid for it so i moved my current stuff. The whole possibility of functionality of the screen outside of just plasystation makes it worthwhile. I have an account with xenarc, but never really looked into it beyond pricing...
with your setup are you satisfied with the gps interface in comparison to some of the other units out? or is there no real difference?
with your setup are you satisfied with the gps interface in comparison to some of the other units out? or is there no real difference?
11-26-2005, 11:46 PM
#22
Thanks dblair...that was the answer I was looking for. Do you have pictures of how you tapped in to the Bose amp? Thanks a lot. If you could IM me it would be appreciated. AIM= vvt1
EDIT: For a use interface you should definitely check out mp3car.com they have many front ends that run over XP and it intergrates everything into one place. IE: dvd, music, gps, phone, etc. I have been messing around with the RoadRunner one and I like it a lot.
EDIT: For a use interface you should definitely check out mp3car.com they have many front ends that run over XP and it intergrates everything into one place. IE: dvd, music, gps, phone, etc. I have been messing around with the RoadRunner one and I like it a lot.
11-27-2005, 08:07 AM
#23
Originally Posted by viguera
Most people that are concerned with vibrations use laptop hard drives, since they're better rated for shock (seeing how they're supposed to be bounced around more than desktop drives), and a 2 1/2" --> IDE converter to go to a regular mobo (if that's the way you're going). My guess is that with a bad enough bump (or enough thump) you're gonna have problems in the trunk... might wanna think about under the seat or something instead.
11-27-2005, 08:42 AM
#24
Originally Posted by cutter
Thanks dblair...that was the answer I was looking for. Do you have pictures of how you tapped in to the Bose amp?
...it is basically like that except for the following changes:
(1) Use both the Green and the Black outputs on soundcard (green=front, black=rear)...this is assuming that your soundcard supports 4 channel output.
(2) Use 2 of these 3.5mm to RCA adapters, one into the green output and the other into the black output on the soundcard
(3) Skip the Y splitters all together
(4) Run these audio cables directly from the rca adapters that you plugged into the soundcard all the way up to the dash where your Bose head unit used to be.
(5) Cut the RCA plugs off this end of your audio cables and splice them to the front left, front right, rear left and rear right on the factory bose wiring harness. You may want to pick up a $10 harness adapter at walmart and splice them to that so you can avoid cutting into the factory wiring. Then connect the amp power wire (usually blue and white) to the ignition so the bose amps will turn on and off with the ignition, and you're done. You may want to put a toggle switch between the ignition and amp power wire so you can manually turn the amps on and off.
This setup was cheap and easy to do and works well on my Bose equipped 99 Max GLE. Note: If you get a buzzing noise out of your speakers when you turn the amps on, you likely have to do some additional grounding, but otherwise, that's it.
11-27-2005, 10:07 AM
#25
how does the power inverter work? Does it hook up to your battery or what? Also, say I wanted to run a computer also, along with an electronic crossover, and three amps (active 3-way setup), would I have to have five batteries in my trunk? (one for each amp, one for the crossover, and one for the computer)? Cause there's no way all that could or even should be connected to the battery under the hood.
11-27-2005, 11:57 AM
#26
Originally Posted by ElVito1981
how does the power inverter work? Does it hook up to your battery or what? Also, say I wanted to run a computer also, along with an electronic crossover, and three amps (active 3-way setup), would I have to have five batteries in my trunk? (one for each amp, one for the crossover, and one for the computer)? Cause there's no way all that could or even should be connected to the battery under the hood.
In my case, I actually bought a second battery (a deep cycle marine battery) and put that into the trunk with my PC. My inverter is connected directly to the marine battery and is therefore completely isolated from my car's electrical system...I just have to manually recharge the marine battery overnight every few days. I know it's kind of a weird way of doing things, but it's winter here already in Winnipeg, and kinda cold outside for farting around with installing stuff in the car. I chose to do it this way just because it was the fastest and easiest way for me to get everything up and running without freezing my buns off. I will probably wire the inverter into my car's electrical system next summer when it's warm out and I have time to work on it. If you choose to get a second battery like me and rechage it manually, make sure to get a deep cycle battery with the longest reserve time you can (not a high cranking amps starting battery)...otherwise you'll have to recharge every night. Mine's rated for a 205 minutes reserve, which at the rate of power my pc uses, actually runs my PC for many many hours before recharging is required. A regular battery might only last 2 or 3 hours between charges.
David
11-27-2005, 12:48 PM
#27
Originally Posted by dblair
Generally, the inverter connects either directly to the car battery, or indirectly through the cigarette lighter...it's up to you. I went with a 200 watt inverter to be sure to have enough power to run the PC and any peripherals I connect to it.
In my case, I actually bought a second battery (a deep cycle marine battery) and put that into the trunk with my PC. My inverter is connected directly to the marine battery and is therefore completely isolated from my car's electrical system...I just have to manually recharge the marine battery overnight every few days. I know it's kind of a weird way of doing things, but it's winter here already in Winnipeg, and kinda cold outside for farting around with installing stuff in the car. I chose to do it this way just because it was the fastest and easiest way for me to get everything up and running without freezing my buns off. I will probably wire the inverter into my car's electrical system next summer when it's warm out and I have time to work on it. If you choose to get a second battery like me and rechage it manually, make sure to get a deep cycle battery with the longest reserve time you can (not a high cranking amps starting battery)...otherwise you'll have to recharge every night. Mine's rated for a 205 minutes reserve, which at the rate of power my pc uses, actually runs my PC for many many hours before recharging is required. A regular battery might only last 2 or 3 hours between charges.
David
In my case, I actually bought a second battery (a deep cycle marine battery) and put that into the trunk with my PC. My inverter is connected directly to the marine battery and is therefore completely isolated from my car's electrical system...I just have to manually recharge the marine battery overnight every few days. I know it's kind of a weird way of doing things, but it's winter here already in Winnipeg, and kinda cold outside for farting around with installing stuff in the car. I chose to do it this way just because it was the fastest and easiest way for me to get everything up and running without freezing my buns off. I will probably wire the inverter into my car's electrical system next summer when it's warm out and I have time to work on it. If you choose to get a second battery like me and rechage it manually, make sure to get a deep cycle battery with the longest reserve time you can (not a high cranking amps starting battery)...otherwise you'll have to recharge every night. Mine's rated for a 205 minutes reserve, which at the rate of power my pc uses, actually runs my PC for many many hours before recharging is required. A regular battery might only last 2 or 3 hours between charges.
David
11-28-2005, 07:02 AM
#29
How are you guys hooking up the "remote-turn on" wire from the amplifier to the computer? That's what head unit CD Players have in their harnesses to send a signal to the amp to turn on. I don't understand how you can do that when the RCA cable is coming to the amp from the sound card. Oh, and I'm assuming this setup includes all aftermarket parts, not Bose
11-28-2005, 08:02 AM
#30
Originally Posted by dblair
Cool, thanks! I did a search on ebay for "mbr 70" and didn't get any results. Is there a different name for it? Or is what you are referring to just a regular battery isolator?
This is the one. They come up every once in a while
11-28-2005, 08:05 AM
#31
11-28-2005, 08:08 AM
#32
And if that fails concept makes a 100amp one I just like orion more, and personally used that unit. COncept is a decent company usually for moderately priced tvs, i used to have an acct with a company that sold them but they were dropped for a new line so i cant even offer you pricing or a source on that item...
11-28-2005, 05:13 PM
#33
Originally Posted by ElVito1981
How are you guys hooking up the "remote-turn on" wire from the amplifier to the computer? That's what head unit CD Players have in their harnesses to send a signal to the amp to turn on. I don't understand how you can do that when the RCA cable is coming to the amp from the sound card. Oh, and I'm assuming this setup includes all aftermarket parts, not Bose
For the amp power, I have just connected the amp power wire to the ignition wire (with a toggle switch in between so I can manually turn amps on and off). Later on I am going to setup a relay to turn the amps on and off that can be controlled through the serial port on the PC. I will then be able to turn the Bose amps on and off through my own software on the PC.
11-28-2005, 05:19 PM
#34
Originally Posted by Cant_Get_Ryte
And if that fails concept makes a 100amp one I just like orion more, and personally used that unit. COncept is a decent company usually for moderately priced tvs, i used to have an acct with a company that sold them but they were dropped for a new line so i cant even offer you pricing or a source on that item...
11-29-2005, 05:50 AM
#36
Originally Posted by dblair
My system is setup on a Bose equipped vehicle. I've pulled the Bose head unit but still using the bose amps/speakers.
For the amp power, I have just connected the amp power wire to the ignition wire (with a toggle switch in between so I can manually turn amps on and off). Later on I am going to setup a relay to turn the amps on and off that can be controlled through the serial port on the PC. I will then be able to turn the Bose amps on and off through my own software on the PC.
For the amp power, I have just connected the amp power wire to the ignition wire (with a toggle switch in between so I can manually turn amps on and off). Later on I am going to setup a relay to turn the amps on and off that can be controlled through the serial port on the PC. I will then be able to turn the Bose amps on and off through my own software on the PC.
right, but say you were going aftermarket on the speakers and amps, how would you connect the "remote-turn-on" wire from the amp to the sound card of the computer. Without it, the amp wouldn't turn on automatically when the computer is turned on. Also, is the computer hooked up to the car's electrical system? Otherwise, you would have to manually turn on the comptuer right? That seems like a pain in the ***. I think it's better to have everything hooked up to the car's battery. That way when you turn the ignition, you're in business.
11-29-2005, 08:27 AM
#37
Originally Posted by ElVito1981
Otherwise, you would have to manually turn on the comptuer right? That seems like a pain in the ***. I think it's better to have everything hooked up to the car's battery. That way when you turn the ignition, you're in business.
) and the controller takes care of the rest. It will also auto-shutdown the machine when it senses low voltage or after a specific amount fo time when the car goes off.
11-29-2005, 10:21 AM
#38
Originally Posted by ElVito1981
right, but say you were going aftermarket on the speakers and amps, how would you connect the "remote-turn-on" wire from the amp to the sound card of the computer. Without it, the amp wouldn't turn on automatically when the computer is turned on. Also, is the computer hooked up to the car's electrical system? Otherwise, you would have to manually turn on the comptuer right? That seems like a pain in the ***. I think it's better to have everything hooked up to the car's battery. That way when you turn the ignition, you're in business.
2. As far as turning on the PC goes, you could get a CarPC power supply with power-up control as already mentionned and run it off the car's main power...that way you could have it power up/down with the ignition. The parts to do this were not available locally for me to do that though, so I just ran a momentary contact switch from the PC motherboard's power header pins out through the case and all the way up into my dash...so now I turn the PC on and off from a switch on my dash, just like you would turn a regular head unit on and off. I will probably switch everything over to the car's battery later on and get a real incar DC-DC power supply with power-up controller, but as I said earlier, all I wanted for the moment was to get this thing up and running with minimal screwing around out in the cold.
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