5th Gen Bose/Alpine Setup, questions.
5th Gen Bose/Alpine Setup, questions.
I replaced the Bose deck, and 4 side speakers in September, and now have in the front Alpine 6.5"s, and in the rear 5.5"s, aswell as an Alpine HU(can get the number if anyone finds it necessary to help answer my question), and and Alpine 6-Disc Changer to finish off what I would've had with the old Bose.
Anyways, I was looking today, and was checking the rear mounted speaker, about dead center of the trunk, mounted behind where the back seats fold down(assuming you guys know what i'm referring to), and also noticed the Bose "amp", it seemed small, and I think I read 230w, I might have to go check again, but what I am curious about(was all installed by Best Buy):
A)Is it worth replacing the amp that is there(assuming it wasnt bypassed, is there a way to check?), will I notice a sound difference?
B)The rear speaker, basically the same question(worth replacing?), and what size is it if I should replace it?
Anyways, I was looking today, and was checking the rear mounted speaker, about dead center of the trunk, mounted behind where the back seats fold down(assuming you guys know what i'm referring to), and also noticed the Bose "amp", it seemed small, and I think I read 230w, I might have to go check again, but what I am curious about(was all installed by Best Buy):
A)Is it worth replacing the amp that is there(assuming it wasnt bypassed, is there a way to check?), will I notice a sound difference?
B)The rear speaker, basically the same question(worth replacing?), and what size is it if I should replace it?
Youve got problems if youve already installed a radio and 4 speakers and theyre running off the Bose amp.
Thats called the rear deck. Its an 8" Bose sub there. To add an aftermarket 8" sub in the rear deck, youd need an individual amp for it alone.
Work on bypassing Bose completely first, then worry about adding a sub.
Thats called the rear deck. Its an 8" Bose sub there. To add an aftermarket 8" sub in the rear deck, youd need an individual amp for it alone.
Work on bypassing Bose completely first, then worry about adding a sub.
Originally Posted by kpr10is
Youve got problems if youve already installed a radio and 4 speakers and theyre running off the Bose amp.
Thats called the rear deck. Its an 8" Bose sub there. To add an aftermarket 8" sub in the rear deck, youd need an individual amp for it alone.
Work on bypassing Bose completely first, then worry about adding a sub.
Thats called the rear deck. Its an 8" Bose sub there. To add an aftermarket 8" sub in the rear deck, youd need an individual amp for it alone.
Work on bypassing Bose completely first, then worry about adding a sub.
Check your receipt and see what they charged you for. When only doing a radio install, they usually sell an adapter that runs anywhere between 50-90 bucks, but when adding 4 speakers, they definitely shouldve known to bypass it completely. You should be able to slide your radio out of its cage and see if theres any adapters back there. Either way, you need to bypass Bose completely, because theres nothing to integrate when you are adding an entirely new aftermarket setup, it should be all aftermarket and thats it. No Bose integration.
Originally Posted by kpr10is
Check your receipt and see what they charged you for. When only doing a radio install, they usually sell an adapter that runs anywhere between 50-90 bucks, but when adding 4 speakers, they definitely shouldve known to bypass it completely. You should be able to slide your radio out of its cage and see if theres any adapters back there. Either way, you need to bypass Bose completely, because theres nothing to integrate when you are adding an entirely new aftermarket setup, it should be all aftermarket and thats it. No Bose integration.
So going along with that, assuming I got an amp and sub(would most likely invest in one large enough to require it's own box), would it be fairly easy to have them installed? And what types should I look into?
Sorry for asking probably newbie questions, but this type of stuff is at a loss for me, so I appreciate your help immensely
I have a 5th Gen, I kept the Stock BOSE HU, and all the BOSE Door Speakers, ect, because they are not bad, and I like the indash 6disc, all I did was install a rockford amp, (when bridged puts out about 350W RMS) and matched that with a 12" INfinity 1230W (12") In it's own box in the trunk of course, I got a high low converter and spliced into my Speaker out put to get RCA's for the Amp, and thats it, I kept the original 8" sub in there and whatever, it serves my purpose, and In my opinion It F***** rocks man, now in your case you will not need any converters as your HU most likly has RCA outs at the back of it, so all you need to do is get best busy to install the amp, and hookup the sub, they willl probably charge you im guessing $120.00 including install kit ect, The amp I have is the Rockford Fosgate P3002, and above mentioned sub, you can get the amp (@ best buy) for 200 and the sub for probably 100.
Went to Best Buy today and think this is what i'm gonna do, go with a 4 channel amp, saw a good Alpine one that delivered 50 watts x 4 @ 4 ohms, for roughly $200. Also, decided not to do a sub, with my music, it wouldn't be worth it, and i'm not a huge person for subs, I like nice and clear music, instead of a little thump. Soooo, with that...was thinking hey, maybe tweeters? There are those little covers on the posts on each side running along the windshield, if can get them in there, seems like a good plan. And was gonna finally integrate my iPod with my Alpine deck.
So, with this post, any info on if tweeters are doable? Guy at Best Buy said that it'd be spliced from each front 6.5".
So, with this post, any info on if tweeters are doable? Guy at Best Buy said that it'd be spliced from each front 6.5".
Originally Posted by Max_N_Action
hey sorry for getting off topic.... but how do there alpine speakers compare to the bose? are they as bassy?
And Ratha, I can't thank you enough for your help on this! Looked on eBay on the MB Quarts, and found one, so the 3/4" Tweeters look like the ones you're referring to. My only issue, doesn't seem like they're carried in the US, and I know I can't install this stuff myself, so i'm gonna check Car Toys and Tweeter tomorrow, see if they can do any installs if I purchase it.
Went to Car Toys and this is what the guy suggested:
a)Amp and tweeters. Said tweeters would be roughly $50-$80, installation bringing those alone to like $200(some converter I guess for the mid-high seperation), much less the Amp is like $200 by itself, $100 in parts, and $75 installation. So $575.
b)JL Speaker that comes with the outside tweeter. Would remove my front 6.5"s and do this instead, the speaker w/ tweeter setup is $150, labor and etc. I imagine that would be $250(doesn't need to converters), plus I could sell my used 6.5"s for probably $50, so that with amp would guess about $575 aswell.
c)He said the tweeters, while good, probably just not worth it, so amp $375-$400.
What do you guys think?
Also, when I had my speakers installed at Best Buy, they used 6.5"s in front and 5.25"s in the rear, is this the right size? I thought was 6.5" in both?
If so, I asked the guy if they could move the 6.5"s in front to the rear, and he quoted with everything else about $700, which sounded high. Thoughts?
a)Amp and tweeters. Said tweeters would be roughly $50-$80, installation bringing those alone to like $200(some converter I guess for the mid-high seperation), much less the Amp is like $200 by itself, $100 in parts, and $75 installation. So $575.
b)JL Speaker that comes with the outside tweeter. Would remove my front 6.5"s and do this instead, the speaker w/ tweeter setup is $150, labor and etc. I imagine that would be $250(doesn't need to converters), plus I could sell my used 6.5"s for probably $50, so that with amp would guess about $575 aswell.
c)He said the tweeters, while good, probably just not worth it, so amp $375-$400.
What do you guys think?
Also, when I had my speakers installed at Best Buy, they used 6.5"s in front and 5.25"s in the rear, is this the right size? I thought was 6.5" in both?
If so, I asked the guy if they could move the 6.5"s in front to the rear, and he quoted with everything else about $700, which sounded high. Thoughts?
Sure thing. exact component numbers in parentheses:
Head Unit:
Alpine MP3/WMA CD Receiver(CDA-9847)
Front Speakers:
Alpine 6 1/2" Coaxial 2-Ways(SPS-170A)
Rear Speakers:
Alpine 5 1/4" Coaxial 2-Ways(SPS-130A)
CD Changer:
CD Remote Changer(CHA-S634)
Head Unit:
Alpine MP3/WMA CD Receiver(CDA-9847)
Front Speakers:
Alpine 6 1/2" Coaxial 2-Ways(SPS-170A)
Rear Speakers:
Alpine 5 1/4" Coaxial 2-Ways(SPS-130A)
CD Changer:
CD Remote Changer(CHA-S634)
MAXRAIN:The NIs2-OEM is for if you want to keep the stock BOSE HU, to run RCA's to the amp w/o splicing into the speaker wires for a high/low converter, If you are planning to run an aftermarket HU, you dont need this product
Penguin: I agree with slick, there is no point in getting coaxial speakers in the front when you already have the tweeters in the pillars, it's overkill. I also agree that if there is any BOSE left in the car get it out, no point in keepin it in. The rear speakers are 6.5" so i dont know about these 5.25"'s you got there, my advice would to go with some good component's in the front and back, keep the tweets, they are pretty good IMO, and run the rest off of that amp you were planning on getting earlier. I think your system would sound awsome man. FYI: Component speakers out perform coaxial in the mid range 90% of the time, and since you already have the tweets in the pillars, its all gravey.......hope this helps
Penguin: I agree with slick, there is no point in getting coaxial speakers in the front when you already have the tweeters in the pillars, it's overkill. I also agree that if there is any BOSE left in the car get it out, no point in keepin it in. The rear speakers are 6.5" so i dont know about these 5.25"'s you got there, my advice would to go with some good component's in the front and back, keep the tweets, they are pretty good IMO, and run the rest off of that amp you were planning on getting earlier. I think your system would sound awsome man. FYI: Component speakers out perform coaxial in the mid range 90% of the time, and since you already have the tweets in the pillars, its all gravey.......hope this helps
I want to add another amp and subs. Can i keep the bose system but change the head unit by adding PAC ROEM-NIS2 connector OR did i have to take out the whole bose system (which i don't want to do). I just want to install my amp and subs how did i do that?
Originally Posted by ratha77
Penguin: I agree with slick, there is no point in getting coaxial speakers in the front when you already have the tweeters in the pillars, it's overkill. I also agree that if there is any BOSE left in the car get it out, no point in keepin it in. The rear speakers are 6.5" so i dont know about these 5.25"'s you got there, my advice would to go with some good component's in the front and back, keep the tweets, they are pretty good IMO, and run the rest off of that amp you were planning on getting earlier. I think your system would sound awsome man. FYI: Component speakers out perform coaxial in the mid range 90% of the time, and since you already have the tweets in the pillars, its all gravey.......hope this helps
And Max: I'd have to just suggest the whole thing, attempting to bypass part of your system, while maintaining the rest doesn't seem practical to me, all the Bose left imo will just hold your amp and sub back from being able to do what they do best.
just finished the other day setting up a new install and the frons are 6.5 and the rears are 5.25. There is a white palstic basket that holds the speakers and i dropped my mbs that are 5.35 right in the rear doors and they fit like a glove. Sound way better than bose too. Cleaner and louder
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