I have the stock Bose system in my car and the left front tweeter just stopped working. Any ideas? I have an appt. with Nissan tomorrow and I have an extended warranty, but they better not give me any B.S. about not covering it. I know dealerships always try to find ways to get out of warranty work. I have installed a sub and an amp to the factory Bose stereo so they better not talk about "we not covering it because your sub and amp caused it to go bad" ..... what you guys think it may be?

 

Try smacking the center console where the radio is its a loose wire mine does it and that how i ghetto rig it to work

 

Well now after putting my ear right in front of the tweeter, I can hear sound coming out but it is very soft and weak, the right side definately has more sound coming out of it and makes it sound unbalanced. So sound is coming through it, but it is not loud. Any ideas?

 

Again have you tried tapping the radio to get full sound?

 

If you tap the HU and the symptoms change, take off the faceplate of the HU and chech the soldering contact behind it. I got the same problem w/ my Clarion on my '97GLE. Goto Radioshack and get a soldering iron and some leadwire. Just touch up/heat up a little bit on the male connector which will go into the main PCB on the HU. Some pins may no longer have good contact due to the old lead cracked. No need to open the HU itself.

 

There junk anyway...good time to upgrade

 

How do I remove the faceplate and get to these connections?

 

I tapped it yesterday and didnt notice any change, now I just went into my car a little while ago and the tweeter seems to be working just fine now. What the hell..Damn Nissan crap.....I want a permanent solution lol

 

A loose connector cause intermittent problem. Just look at the controls on the faceplate, all those controls will send signals to the HU and if some of them have cracks at the connector...Sometimes it may sound like it's fading left or right, or muted or you know what. Just tap or press the faceplate at verious places and the behavior is changing then that's the sign.
Have you ever changed the faceplate on the cd/dvd-rom ? The faceplate snaps onto the HU. There are some plastic and screws to hold it. There are some ribbon-type connectors (don't jank them out, there are tiny locking tabs) and then the floppy-drive type connector. You maynot see the tiny cracks with bare eyes (in my case I lifted the connector and it lifted off the PCB). Just use the soldering iron to reheat/melt all the solder joints to renew them.
Actually the faceplate is just like a PC keyboard. That's what it does. Just follow the sticky to get the the HU. May need to un-screw the sides to remove the HU. Then remove the faceplate, you don't need to open and mess up the HU itself. The ribbon-type connectors need the locking tabs lifted (never use force). It may take about an hour if you have everything ready and efficient. So budget 2 hours for it. I left a huge hole on the dash for a day while shopping for the iron.