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rear fill?

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Old Oct 23, 2006 | 09:47 PM
  #1  
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rear fill?

i have a friend who thinks it is pointless to replace the rear speakers if you have replaced the front speakers with components.
he thinks u should just cut the power to them!
what do you guys think!
i myself think he is crazy and i will definitely replace the rear speakers!
Old Oct 23, 2006 | 10:03 PM
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he's not crazy...most car audiophiles don't run any rear at all. i have mine amp'ed up front and the rears powered off my head unit. i want my passengers (which i tend to have quite often) to have sound back there as well.

in any case, front speakers > rear speakers.
Old Oct 24, 2006 | 07:43 AM
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I don't have anythign in the back and no one has ever complained in the back seat.
Old Oct 24, 2006 | 07:48 AM
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I run some cheap coaxials in the rear off the h/u but I agree that you do not need rear fill.
Old Oct 24, 2006 | 08:12 AM
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i plan on getting some rear speakers that have some pretty good rms to add more base cuz i dont plan on buying a sub right now!
Old Oct 24, 2006 | 08:17 AM
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Rear speakers are not meant for BASE (BASS) (unless doing something custom). They are made for full range/midbass. Don't try to get something out of a speaker that is not meant to produce. If you just want bass from the rear speakers get a 6.5 woofer. They are available. A "pretty good rms" is not indicative of good bass response.

What you should really do is get a nice component set up front and power it up with an amp, you will get plenty of bass and good overall output.
Old Oct 24, 2006 | 09:46 AM
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Originally Posted by nismos14
Rear speakers are not meant for BASE (BASS) (unless doing something custom). They are made for full range/midbass. Don't try to get something out of a speaker that is not meant to produce. If you just want bass from the rear speakers get a 6.5 woofer. They are available. A "pretty good rms" is not indicative of good bass response.

What you should really do is get a nice component set up front and power it up with an amp, you will get plenty of bass and good overall output.
i plan on getting components and an 4 channel amp to power the components and the rears
what do u think?
Old Oct 24, 2006 | 09:57 AM
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Skip the rear, get a better set of comps for the front than you would have gotten, and amp those. or better yet bi-amp them, but make sure to get an amp that is very versatile and has high x-over settings.
Old Oct 24, 2006 | 10:51 AM
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Originally Posted by nismos14
Skip the rear, get a better set of comps for the front than you would have gotten, and amp those. or better yet bi-amp them, but make sure to get an amp that is very versatile and has high x-over settings.
what exactly do u mean?
im sort of new at this stuff and i wanna get the right stuff!
and im also goin to get the pioneer premier 680!
Old Oct 24, 2006 | 10:58 AM
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2 way components have two speakers per side 4 total, a 4 channel amp has 4 channels, front channels of the amp (with the proper crossover) to the tweeters, and the rear channels to the mid's also with the proper crossover. Then you have full adjustability of tweeter level and the mid level.
Old Oct 24, 2006 | 11:44 AM
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I thought it would be better to bridge a four channel amp and run the crossovers that come with the component speakers? My amp has a really good crossover set up on it, just wondering what is the best way to run the comps.
80watts to each speaker or bridgeing my four channel amp for 200watts X 2 and just using the crossovers that come with the speakers.
Old Oct 24, 2006 | 11:47 AM
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Running active is a better route IMO. You get more adjustability and can tune your highs vs mids alot more accurately.
Old Oct 24, 2006 | 12:15 PM
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Originally Posted by nismos14
Running active is a better route IMO. You get more adjustability and can tune your highs vs mids alot more accurately.
so ur talkin about running a 4 channel amp that has the ability of adjusting each channel. so u are able to tune the mids and the tweets differently.
Old Oct 24, 2006 | 12:29 PM
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No, a 4 channel that can adjust the front and rear seperately, all 4 do not have to be seperate. If thats what you meant than your question was unclear, but yes thats correct then.
Old Oct 24, 2006 | 12:34 PM
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he means, having a 4 channel amp, and using the amp's gains and freq. crossover to adjust how you want your highs and mids.

better than just having 3 options -3db,0,+3. now you can make your tweeters sharper or not...
Old Oct 24, 2006 | 07:50 PM
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Originally Posted by eckounltd287
he means, having a 4 channel amp, and using the amp's gains and freq. crossover to adjust how you want your highs and mids.

better than just having 3 options -3db,0,+3. now you can make your tweeters sharper or not...
so should i get a 4 or a 2? if im just goin to power the front components with the amp and i will just run the rears on just the hu!
Old Oct 24, 2006 | 09:18 PM
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music is played in stereo sound.

the best sound comes from 2 high quality speakers. it' gives you a frontstage(concert) type feeling, instead of surround sound (movie) type feel.

if you get a 4 channel amp you can have more versatlilty, you can bridge the channels and get 2 big power channels.

run 2 channels for speakers, and bridge 2 for a sub.

There's a ton of flexibility you get

don't run the rears at all
Old Oct 25, 2006 | 07:19 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by eckounltd287
music is played in stereo sound.

the best sound comes from 2 high quality speakers. it' gives you a frontstage(concert) type feeling, instead of surround sound (movie) type feel.

if you get a 4 channel amp you can have more versatlilty, you can bridge the channels and get 2 big power channels.

run 2 channels for speakers, and bridge 2 for a sub.

There's a ton of flexibility you get

don't run the rears at all
i plan on getting a mono amp for a sub.
so i think im just goin to get a 2 way.
what do u think about that?
Old Oct 25, 2006 | 07:22 AM
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You're going about it all wrong. If you got a 4 channel and ran two channels to the fronts and bridged the other two for the sub you would have a mono setup to the sub.

Now if you plan to run active using a 4 channel thats a different story.
Old Oct 25, 2006 | 07:32 AM
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Originally Posted by nismos14
You're going about it all wrong. If you got a 4 channel and ran two channels to the fronts and bridged the other two for the sub you would have a mono setup to the sub.

Now if you plan to run active using a 4 channel thats a different story.
what is active?
Old Oct 25, 2006 | 08:25 AM
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4 channel amp 1 channel on each speaker (1 on right tweeter, 1 on left tweeter, 1 on right midbass, 1 on left midass).
Old Oct 25, 2006 | 10:36 AM
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I have rear speakers in my car, but they are only on when I have passengers with me. With my HU it takes no time at all to change the settings.
Old Oct 25, 2006 | 12:09 PM
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Juan, are the rears powered off the HU? I can't imagine the Germ's aren't loud enough to encompass the entire car in sound including the rear passengers
Old Oct 25, 2006 | 02:42 PM
  #24  
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what do u think about these components i found them for $214 shipped!
Rockford Fosgate Power T162S
Old Oct 25, 2006 | 02:56 PM
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Originally Posted by nismos14
Juan, are the rears powered off the HU? I can't imagine the Germ's aren't loud enough to encompass the entire car in sound including the rear passengers

The rears are powered by the rear channels from the amp. I have them attenuated at the HU by 4db's and the gains on the amp for them are a little lower than the germs as well. I also have different time alignment settings for when I have passengers in the car and the rear speakers are on. To my ears, the side benefit of having the rear speakers on (attenutated and having the time alignment) is that it helps pull the music away from the A-pillar. This is in no way as good as when I am just running the fronts and have the time alignment settings for just the fronts in place, but it is an acceptable compromise for me.
Old Oct 25, 2006 | 03:08 PM
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Very interesting.

The germs give you the option of bi-amping as well right?


Travmaximas pm pearl96max about getting some rainbow components for ~220 shipped. You will be much happier and have a warranty.
Old Oct 25, 2006 | 03:09 PM
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I'm here for the gangbang.
Old Oct 25, 2006 | 03:18 PM
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Originally Posted by nismos14
Very interesting.

The germs give you the option of bi-amping as well right?


Travmaximas pm pearl96max about getting some rainbow components for ~220 shipped. You will be much happier and have a warranty.
i did he said i could get some for 230 shipped but then i found this website and everything is half off almost and comes with a 2 year warranty! and those rockford fosgates have better specs than the rainbows.
he is the link
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_3144.html
Old Oct 25, 2006 | 03:20 PM
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Originally Posted by travmaximas1998
and those rockford fosgates have better specs than the rainbows.

Zomg lol
Old Oct 25, 2006 | 03:28 PM
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Originally Posted by djfrestyl
Zomg lol
care to share
Old Oct 25, 2006 | 03:32 PM
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Originally Posted by illlojik
care to share
Just for starters, the Rainbow SLC frequency range is 50-22k hz. RF is 60-22k hz.
Old Oct 25, 2006 | 03:33 PM
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LOL thats sig material right there. I have no words to explain the truth to such ignorance.
Old Oct 25, 2006 | 03:41 PM
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Originally Posted by illlojik
care to share
Uhhh...the RF will sound like ****, the Rainbows wont.

Trav:
1. Numbers on paper dont mean much.
2. Because the Rainbows have a higher sensitivity, larger freq response, and silk tweeter versus RF's aluminum...exactly what specs are worse?
Old Oct 25, 2006 | 04:39 PM
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It means I'm laughing at your comment.
Old Oct 25, 2006 | 04:43 PM
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Originally Posted by kpr10is
Uhhh...the RF will sound like ****, the Rainbows wont.

Trav:
1. Numbers on paper dont mean much.
2. Because the Rainbows have a higher sensitivity, larger freq response, and silk tweeter versus RF's aluminum...exactly what specs are worse?
oh sry i never looked at the frequency
but the RF can handle more power!
the rainbow is 100 rms to 150 max
the RF is 100 rms to 200 max
how much of a difference will that make?
Old Oct 25, 2006 | 05:02 PM
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WHAT? RMS power is the same, that is the important number. My god man.... LEARN something.
Old Oct 25, 2006 | 05:10 PM
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Originally Posted by nismos14
WHAT? RMS power is the same, that is the important number. My god man.... LEARN something.
ya im sry when i looked at it the 1st time i thought it was more than 100 but i was just goin to give it a shot in the dark at what yall thought about the 200 max!
sry once again
(remember im new lol)
still looking to make sure i get what i want
thanks for all the feed back yal are giving me
fixin to have questions about an amp
Old Oct 25, 2006 | 05:43 PM
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Instead of asking about certain products, give us a budget and we can come up with what will work great for you.
Old Oct 25, 2006 | 05:59 PM
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Originally Posted by nismos14
Instead of asking about certain products, give us a budget and we can come up with what will work great for you.
So that's how it works.
Okay, I'll give it a shot even though I kind of asked before. As I said in the other thread I have on of these on the way: JVC screen. No I didn't pay that ridiculous price. Right now I have a Sony Explode 600w amp that I'll be using to power the speakers. I'm looking to add components. Lets say a $250 budget for now. What can I work with or add?
Old Oct 25, 2006 | 06:03 PM
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Components = Rainbow slc265 ~$230



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