send em to me and Ill cut em on the table in minutes.

 

You should sell these for the Maxima. The spacer that I bought is listed for the Sentra or Maxima. it turns that funny 3-tab mounting surface into a 4-tab surface (as you can see). unfortunately, the company that sells them made the speaker mounting hole too small, so I used the speaker gasket that came with the hertz to designate the "new" cutout diameter.

This material is not cheap at all. $42 for a 1" x 8" x 8' peice- which makes about 4 sets of adapters.

 

Installed 404m amp and IDQ-10 sub today. Pics coming.

 

Woooot Can't wait for pics.

 

Help a brotha out: http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=508149

 

Well, apparently, the "DVC 2 ohm" ID 10 was actually an SVC 4 ohm. Same difference, but when I opened it up to verify that the 2 VCs were wired properly before I actually hooked it to my amp, there was 1 VC and the model # was clearly an SVC model.

Pic:

 

Very nice!! Understated "beauty".

 

As you can tell, it was a quality pic...

One REAL p!sser...the hex-head screws used to mount the Xtants look really cool, but the threads are designed to go in shallow grooves that run THROUGH the amp. Sounds good, right? Sure. So I get brand new screws (free) from Xtant and use them to mount my amp to an MDF board that I have along the back seat. The even SEND you the proper hex-head bit to go in a drill or hand-driver. I plan to poach your idea and to suspend it from the rear deck (Do you have any pics of that work, by the way?!?). Well, I went to remove the amp to adjust the gains a bit, and the fudging thing is STUCK TO THE BOARD because the screw heads stripped out!

I can get them out, and I have another way to pull the amp (just remove the whole board), but what a pain in the ****!

 

Ah.. btw that wasn't me who had the amp on the rear deck. Mine is under the pasenger seat.

 

Crap. I saw it somewhere, but I don't know if it was here or CA. That sux...

 

It was here hold on........

 

http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...9&postcount=84

 

Werd werd werd

 

Trunk pics:

 

Looks good man!

 

Keep it coming!

 

you didnt take out your OEM sub.

 

Not yet- but if you look at the underside of the rear deck, you can see that I have disconnected it.

I have to remove the rear seat and rear deck to remove the sub, and I will be doing that when it is a few degrees warmer. I want to deaden the rear deck, and I don't want to try to apply the deadener in 20* weather.

I plan to mount my amp on a small board under the rear deck, like this:




This will free up space to make a new box that runs all of the way across the trunk and occupies the area of "dead" space under the angle of the back seat.

Right now, I am waiting on my new RCAs to come in. No local shops had 4-channel RCAs in a length that would get to the trunk. I have also run 4 gauge from the battery through the firewall (to replace the 8 gauge that is there now). I did find the exact battery terminal that I needed at a local shop- 1 1/0 (for the big 3), 1 4 (for the amp), and 2 8 gauge (for OEM). This weekend, I hope to upgrade the Big 3 with all 1/0 and to complete my speaker and signal wire runs. If it is warm enough, I will go ahead and remove that stock sub and properly mount the amp.

 

Well, this weekend was a half-success.

I upped the wiring to the trunk to 4 gauge this weekend and ran 1/0 for the Big 3 (only the fused alt-batt run and the re-ground batt done so far. I still need to upgrade the block ground.). I may do a seperate write-up of my experience with that, but I will post pics here.

 

Nice! Good job.

 

Some notes:
The more I play with the Pioneer, the less ecstatic I am about it, but for the price that I paid, it was a good value. I think that the SQ and output from it are not any better than (and may even be a step DOWN from) my '98 DEH-P835R and my DEH-P77R that I had in past vehicles. This may be my choice of amp, but we will see more once I get it all tuned.

It seems that there is a notable lack of bass. Despite the small cabin and the 200W RMS rating with the amp bridged, it seems that that SVC ID 10 is not putting out much sound unless the "loudness" setting is enabled and the sub level control is at +3 or +4. I have not played with the amp gains, but I still feel like I am coming up short somewhere. Having the Hertz installed and adding some midbass to the equation SHOULD help things, btu I guess we will see.

On some songs, the bass is great. On others, I wonder if the amp is even turned on.

Additionally, my Monster Cable RCAs finally arrived.

I have hit a dilemma with sound deadening, however. I have about 30 square feet of asphalt-based eDead V1. I want to use it on the doors, but I really only want to pull the doors apart once. Because it is asphalt-based, I'd rather NOT use it on the doors and risk it coming off. Of course, that means another week or so of waiting for RAAMmat, Secong Skin, or a new order of the Butyl-based eDead (which is DIRT cheap!). If I get a butyl-based deadner, I will use the eDead that I have now on the floor or trunk floor.

Thoughts? Should I run the eDead and risk it, or should I wait and just get in the butyl-based stuff and do the speaker install at that time? Or should I risk p!ssing off my wife and install the speakers now and then add the deadner when it arrives?

 

Where is the gain set on the amp for the bridged channels? How about the crossovers on them as well?

 

Remember in that earlier post where I mentioned that I cannot get the mounting screws out of the amp? Well, that is keeping me from accessing the gains to even see where I have them set. It es teh suxor!

I know that they are not all of the way down, but I have no idea where the ARE.

Edit- X-overs are set on the HU for now: LP 125, HP 80 (speaker outs).

 

I wouldn't get to perturbed till you can get to the gains and adjust Thats also a pretty big overlap from 80-125 might wanna try bringing down the sub xover, just a suggestion. Btw, how do the hertz sound?

 

i dont think theyre in yet..

 

Correct. HOPEFULLY this weekend. The deadner issue slowed me up...as did the project in my next post...

 

I FINALLY did some wiring upgrades in the SpecV this weekend. Apparently, the 12V+ system in the Sentra is crap. At 100% STOCK current demands, I already have had to replace my alternator. I am pretty sure that it was installer error from getting the new engine, but the stories on the B15 sites make me think that the charging system is just barely adequate- at best.

So to that end, I wanted to upgrade the Big 3. I won't bore you maxima guys with all of the write-up, but here are the pics:

Upped the 12V+ from 8 ga. to 4 ga. due to the 60A max draw from my amp:


New Batt+ terminal- (1) 1/0, (1) 4, and (2) 8 gauge outs. I had to do some "customizing" to make it work, but everything is run now.


Rewiring fuse box to lengthen factory wiring:


When I cut the terminals off of the OEM wiring, I realized that the 8 gauge that runs from the Batt to the fuse box was too short to get to the new terminal, so I had to replace the wire.

 

Good job!

 

Test-fit on the new battery terminal:











I don't know if it was a placebo effect or not, but my headlights seem just slightly brighter. One thing that I am sure of is that my windows roll up and down much better when the car is at idle, particularly if I have the stereo turned on. Before, even if the volume was muted but the amp was powered up, my windows moved very slowly when I was at a drive-through or if I was "badging" in or out at work.

 

You really shouldnt wear White when working under the hood of a car sir.

 

It is "heather grey."



I have a few sets of pants, shirts, and sweatshirts that I wear just to work on the car. They get washed together (when they get washed) by order of the boss (my wife).

 

200amp a little overkill?

other than that looks good.

 

This is a subject of great debate right now on my Sentra forums.

I am just going off of what I read on numerous 12V audio sites (sounddomain and caraudio.com), which BOTH state that the batt----->alternator wire should be fused based on the capacity of the WIRE, and not based on the capacity of the VEHICLE (or the alternator).

I think that questioning this raises logical points. The discussion on the Sentra forums got me thinking about why one would fuse to the wire and not to a rating just above the rated output capacity of the alternator. I kept wondering why the fuse would have to be so high, since in theory anything ABOVE the rated output from the Alt SHOULD blow your factory fuse, and by putting a high-capacity fuse in there you have effectively sidestepped that safety device (the factory fuse) and now we have exposed the OEM electrical components to a spike or surge that it is not designed to take.

I posed the question to the guys on the audio site in just such a manner. I will report on the results.

 

200 amp is worthless IMO...

 

any word on the Hertz?

 

man your spending all this time and money on this sentra, the poor thing is probably going to rattle apart from all the bass befor your done, i mean the car cant handle the power drain, i hope the bolts can handle the strain of the bass

 

interesting. do you have the links to where sounddomain talks about it? i'd like to read them..

not trying to be an ***, seriously interested in seeing what it says..

 

Is there any place the fuse should be? i.e. can it be closer to the battery?

 

Been out of town.

 

I have less than $700 in the whole system, including HU, wiring (for stereo and Big 3), amp, speakres, sub, box, and deadner.

I have about 6-7 hours of work in it.

The Sentra has LESS rattles than any of my 3 Maximas.