ID vs AA
08-26-2007, 04:20 PM
#7
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awwwwwwww new problem.. the AA only comes in dual 4, so the most i could run to it is around 200 watts i guess. the ID has a dual 2 that I could give just under 300 either bridged or running both channels at 2 ohms. would the assassin still be better in this situation? This is a pretty lightweight setup, but I don't want it to be too terribly quiet....
08-26-2007, 06:16 PM
#9
Originally Posted by nismos14
AA's will do great output wise and much better than the ID, however the ID may have the edge as far as SQ, not by enough for me to take the ID over the AA though.
I wonder what kind of budget he has to work with.
08-26-2007, 06:22 PM
#11
Originally Posted by mattj10
awwwwwwww new problem.. the AA only comes in dual 4, so the most i could run to it is around 200 watts i guess. the ID has a dual 2 that I could give just under 300 either bridged or running both channels at 2 ohms. would the assassin still be better in this situation? This is a pretty lightweight setup, but I don't want it to be too terribly quiet....
08-26-2007, 06:23 PM
#12
Originally Posted by filtor1
When did you try the new Assassins?
New AA specs are very similar to the old ones, my assumption is that it will perform much the same, the soft parts are similar to the old as well, so the cone control/stiffness should be very close.
08-26-2007, 06:25 PM
#13
Originally Posted by nismos14
New AA specs are very similar to the old ones, my assumption is that it will perform much the same, the soft parts are similar to the old as well, so the cone control/stiffness should be very close.
08-26-2007, 08:17 PM
#17
Originally Posted by nismos14
Yea find out plz.
Will do. I will write it on the schedule. I will write it next to urination whilst opening the new Rainbow box.
Don, I hope you didn't send them to Bronson.
08-26-2007, 08:55 PM
#21
Originally Posted by Pearl96Max
I could just give you tracking info too. 
I need to delete the old one. I will be up for a bit. send it over if you would please.
08-26-2007, 09:04 PM
#23
Originally Posted by Pearl96Max
On the way, its going to Gainesville.
08-27-2007, 06:22 PM
#26
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what about the ID 10" in a sealed box? Would that, running up to 280 watts or so, be better than the 8" assassin IB getting 200? I know its a totally different setup and would have different characteristics because of the box but any guess on how they would compare overall?
08-27-2007, 07:30 PM
#27
The 10 would have cone advantage as well as higher power handling due to the enclosure. Two totally different approaches. Now putting the 10 IB would be sweet too if you don't want an enclosure. If your into cutting and making a new rear deck, the 2-8" Assassin's would own. The single 10 would require no cutting though.
08-29-2007, 10:20 AM
#29
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Hah, as much as I like that idea, I'm not thinking Ill cut it. would that single 10 really fit without cutting? How high would I have to build it up to make it fit? going with a 10 allows so many more sub options that that sounds really appealing but I don't see how it would fit
08-29-2007, 11:35 AM
#31
Originally Posted by mattj10
Hah, as much as I like that idea, I'm not thinking Ill cut it. would that single 10 really fit without cutting? How high would I have to build it up to make it fit? going with a 10 allows so many more sub options that that sounds really appealing but I don't see how it would fit
08-29-2007, 01:10 PM
#33
Originally Posted by mattj10
bose
10 char....
10 char....
If you want to do a single 10", you will not use the stock plate, instead you will need to make a baffle for the under side of the rear deck. Depending on how you mount the sub (top/bottom of the baffle you make) will narrow your search for an acceptable driver as you will need to take into account the depth after mounting with regards to the trunk tension bars. A bit more work for this method, but neither will require you cutting into your rear deck.
In regards to the install in general, when installing a driver in an IB application, you will need to understand that it is best for you to eliminate the rear wave from the driver. Do your best, I know it is not 100% possible in our cars, to seal the rear deck and keep your seats up during playback. If you decide to see if it will be louder with the seats down, the driver will see a massive increase in its enclosure and will typically unload, meaning that the cone will move uncontrollably and over excursion will occur damaging the driver and possibly your amp.
If you search around you can find the thread myself and kpr10is did for a forum member with a CDT 8", then an ID 8", and finally ended up with a DLS OA10 mounted under the rear deck by AudioNutz. He chose the 10 b/c the 8"s didn't provide enough output. SC2K1 is his SN.
08-29-2007, 06:51 PM
#34
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Posts: 293
Wow, thanks for the info. I think I had read that thread about undermounting the 10, but I totally forgot and didn't see how it could work any other way. up until this point i had been thinking i'd just screw it and go with the AA 8" for simplicity. Now its between the AA 10, ID 10, and possibly that DLS mentioned depending on the price, (although I'm sure its over what I'm looking at so far) because the extra output from a 10 would sure be nice....
any clear winners between those subs?
any clear winners between those subs?